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      02-18-2016, 11:31 PM   #111
martymil
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Well if you want we can meet up at advan and you can try my cable
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      02-20-2016, 02:26 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i-boy View Post
Thanks Marty for compiling the "parts list" to use with MHD. Got the Lenovo tablet today and was just about to pay for the cables and cover on eBay when I decided to check the thread again.

Spectral can you let us know what device(s) you are using that didn't work with the dcan cable.
The cable works fine now I had a friend mod the Samsung to use OTG properly. I'm not sure of details.

But my issue is my OBD port keeping shutting down. It turns the light on the cable off. I have fully charged the battery (CTEK MXS5.0) up to stage 7, and then measured the battery voltage (12.8V), turned on the ignition (battery voltage still 12.8v), and then start the read process and after about 1 min, the light just goes out at the read stops with 76% remaining.

I don't think the voltage is an issue.. but maybe I'll connect my Prado's big arse duel battery in parallel to make sure

Maybe I have a problem else
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      02-20-2016, 02:37 AM   #113
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You have to do the read when the charger is doing bulk charge 13.8v or above

When you have it above 13.8v your obdII port won't shut down
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      02-20-2016, 05:58 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymil
Well if you want we can meet up at advan and you can try my cable
Thanks marty. Appreciate it. If I run into any problems I will let you know.
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      02-20-2016, 06:19 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymil
You have to do the read when the charger is doing bulk charge 13.8v or above

When you have it above 13.8v your obdII port won't shut down
Spectral I had the the same problem when the car was only a couple of years old. If I had the ignition on for any reason (engine off) the car would shut down after a min. Bloody annoying. Got a new battery and software updated under warranty. I think you're right, I would look at your battery.

Are you saying Spectral the voltage reads 12.8v when the charger is connected, on and charging? Ideally you should be flashing with the charger connected.
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      04-09-2016, 05:03 PM   #116
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whoops sorry guys, didn't reply earlier.

I did a lot more testing on this - the voltage is definitely the problem. My Ctek just didn't have enough juice to keep up with the current draw. I've now got a massive 45A charger designed for EV's and caravan's with big battery banks. It did the job and voltage was a steady 14.2 all the way through.

Out of interest, during the flashing procedure the car is drawing around 10A. More than most chargers would supply.

because my battery is a bit flakey (I'm guessing it will die on me in the next year or so (its 6 years old now)) the charger is even more important... so unless you have a really strong battery, use a charger with at least 10A if not more.

If anyone in the Brisbane area wants to borrow the entire kit including the big charger cables, and the tablet, just send me a PM, happy to lend out with a refundable deposit
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      04-09-2016, 05:28 PM   #117
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Would have been cheaper to replace the battery

The ecu only turns of when the voltage drops below a certain point
so for most of you a Ctek is more than ample

But glad you sorted it

I use a work shop 25amp power supply/charger
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      04-09-2016, 07:56 PM   #118
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Are our batteries AGM?
CTEK chargers have an AGM charge option
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      04-09-2016, 07:58 PM   #119
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Some are agm and other lead acid

Ctek can do both

If you got a bit of spare chash this is the best to get
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      04-10-2016, 09:42 PM   #120
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I needed the charger for another purpose, so it wasn't purchased just for this project Picture of it below. It does LFP as well.

As a whole I think the power increase is good on the open road, but as my car is a daily, I never get to wind it out in the 10km trip each way to work - so it feels exactly the same most of the time May as well have got the 118d
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      08-03-2016, 01:24 PM   #121
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Thought I'd bump this up, fixed all links and all products are still available
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      08-04-2016, 05:32 AM   #122
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Good info here Marty! What MHD tune would you run with a stock 1M?
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      08-04-2016, 10:41 PM   #123
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Trebila MHD Back end Flash stacked with a JB4
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      08-15-2016, 12:49 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymil
Trebila MHD Back end Flash stacked with a JB4
If I don't want to run a JB4 as well is the Stage 2 MHD tune ok?
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      08-15-2016, 11:15 PM   #125
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I suggest getting a custom mhd tune then

Far better than a generic tune one fits all.
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      08-16-2016, 01:10 AM   #126
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How's it affect drivability Marty? Is it like OEM, or perhaps, better?

Are custom tunes 'locked'?
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      08-16-2016, 02:34 AM   #127
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Far better than oem and drives silky smooth

Custom tunes aren't locked but every custom bin files is written specifically for your car needs and wants

Generic files are close but no where near perfect and can cause errors from time to time

I always recommend custom flashes as my engine is worth more that a couple of hundred dollars
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      08-30-2016, 08:34 PM   #128
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Two quick questions - Has anyone got any experience using a Pendo pad? http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/o...blue-pendhd7bl

7" screen, quad-core processor, Android 5.1 and USB OTG looks like it should be up to the job for $69 AUD.

Second question - what happens if something goes wrong mid-flash, like your battery voltage decides to drop 20 mins into the process. Am I risking having having a BMW that won't drive until I replace the ECU?

Thanks!
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      08-30-2016, 08:40 PM   #129
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I wouldn't risk it for a 20 dollar saving

Also if the flash fails which it has for me the mhd can has recover it as long as you backed it up

It did for me but can't say for sure as every car is different
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      08-30-2016, 08:41 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xQx View Post
Two quick questions - Has anyone got any experience using a Pendo pad? http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/o...blue-pendhd7bl

7" screen, quad-core processor, Android 5.1 and USB OTG looks like it should be up to the job for $69 AUD.

Second question - what happens if something goes wrong mid-flash, like your battery voltage decides to drop 20 mins into the process. Am I risking having having a BMW that won't drive until I replace the ECU?

Thanks!
If there's a problem with the flash you can just recover it with MHD, you can just try again and it should be fine. The only way you can be stranded is if your OTG cable or DCAN cable is faulty. I know a guy who got the correct green PCB cable from the known verified link and it was a dud, despite having flashed 30% of the way. Always worth having a friend nearby with a known good cable.
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      08-30-2016, 08:44 PM   #131
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You sure it was the cable

You got to make sure you don't touch the car at all when flashing

As soon as you close a door or play with anything it can stuff up during a flash

Best is to sit the flashing tool on the floor of the car press flash and leave it alone till it finishes

During the flash do not touch the car at all
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      08-30-2016, 09:07 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymil View Post
You sure it was the cable

You got to make sure you don't touch the car at all when flashing

As soon as you close a door or play with anything it can stuff up during a flash

Best is to sit the flashing tool on the floor of the car press flash and leave it alone till it finishes

During the flash do not touch the car at all
100% it was a dud cable, tried many times, on charge, didn't close the doors while flashing. I had to come over and flash his car with my cable, worked first go.

The ebay link is good, lot of people have got good working cables. Just in this instance the cable was faulty.
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