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12-15-2018, 08:57 PM | #10297 |
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varoadking152.00 |
12-16-2018, 01:51 PM | #10299 | ||
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chris_flies3027.00 |
12-17-2018, 08:35 PM | #10301 |
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Yeah it's actually a pretty popular trend here in Texas. It doesn't really do it for me but whatever floats your boat.
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xQx902.50 Esteban42214.00 desertman1232212.00 Gangplank1538.50 chris_flies3027.00 GoodMoodley225.00 Fakemike368.50 olds350333.50 axsuu84.00 varoadking152.00 rdmarsiii4.50 Zombie_Head594.00 BAN_M2C4154.50 Matticus913469.50 |
12-17-2018, 08:44 PM | #10303 |
Loves me some MHD!
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Y'all are too funny...
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1and1
135i - E82.N54 2009 BSM - MHD / xHP / DCI, PR CP & 7.5" Race IC / N55 mid & Borla . . WL RSFI, Koni, Eibach & Dinan CP's, M3 CA's / EBC Red's & Firehawk 500's X1 - E84.N20 2013 MGM - JB4 - The Wife's, now with new turbo & ewg |
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12-17-2018, 09:10 PM | #10304 | |
E82 Mudflap Ambassador
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Drives: '08 128i
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Location: Orlando, FL
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Quote:
But check out the E89 M sport wheel https://www.diyautoftw.com/uploads/u...1493913049.jpg
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My 2008 128i - Sparkling Graphite/Beige - Sport pkg - 6MT - Click me!
Parents' 2014 528i - Mineral White/Ivory White - fully loaded Instagram @Andreys_128i and @Honda.Bito |
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low1352209.00 |
12-17-2018, 09:13 PM | #10305 | ||
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chris_flies3027.00 |
12-17-2018, 10:02 PM | #10306 | |
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https://carsystems.com.ua/bmw-produc...fit-adapter-en It's bigger, no denying that!
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2011 135i w/ DCT | ZSP Sport Pkg | PPK | Ohlins R
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low1352209.00 |
12-17-2018, 10:07 PM | #10307 |
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Drives: 2008 BMW 135i (E88 N54 6AT)
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12-18-2018, 07:35 AM | #10308 | ||
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Ordered some small stuff this week. Placing my order for wheels this Friday. Merry Christmas to me! |
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chris_flies3027.00 |
12-18-2018, 07:38 AM | #10309 | |||
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12-18-2018, 08:03 AM | #10310 | ||||
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chris_flies3027.00 |
12-18-2018, 01:42 PM | #10311 |
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Oil change and installed new steering wheel trim. Now instead of the matte chrome on the side, it's polished. Looks nice!
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My 2008 128i - Sparkling Graphite/Beige - Sport pkg - 6MT - Click me!
Parents' 2014 528i - Mineral White/Ivory White - fully loaded Instagram @Andreys_128i and @Honda.Bito |
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chris_flies3027.00 |
12-18-2018, 02:29 PM | #10312 |
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Just spent 10 hours at the DIY shop...what a day.
The plan was to drop the whole RSF and do the front M3 upper and lower arms. 2 hours in, all the bits connecting the RSF have been removed, including the prop-shaft. Took us another 1 to properly "balance" that damn thing on the shop/jack support. Then we kept lowering it and balancing it slowly, eventually it reached shoulder height and i tackled the front bushings. If you every install M3 RSFB-ings incorrectly, you will hate yourself removing the front ones. You need more clearance than you think, especially if you are using the special tool for the job (that tool alone needs 20+ cm of working *******. Eventually, all bushings are out, everything cleaned and new whiteline PU bushings went in. Followed instructions to the letter, spent another hour guiding the KW rear shocks back into the mounts....that was a circus honestly. Finally, everything went in and snapped a bolt at the exhaust header (125/128 cars have a one piece exhaust from bottom of headers to the muffler). Spent another hour trying to remove the bolt, no go, the head is rust fused in. Went ahead, made sure all our markings on the prop shaft lined up, re did the hand brake cables (that alone was a circus of springs and fiddling with holes in the back that you can not see). It was 19:00....the owner wanted to leave yet he knew i wanted to do the front arms and my alignment is tomorrow morning. I told him its ok, we are 1 hour after closing time and id rather do the RSFB that made the car unsettled and vibrations sorted before the M3 arms. We triple checked all bolts, screws, washers etc...made sure all the torque numbers were correct several times. Since we were both tired, we figured spend 1 hour triple checking everything, since when you are tired you tend to forget things. Bled the brakes, started the car, no exhaust leaks despite 1 less bolt upfront. Shifted fine, and drive fine. No vibrations or noises from the prop shaft or the PU bushings. Slowly started to drive a tad more faster every few minutes on my way home. Car felt....eager, willing to "dive" into corners. Those PU RSFB combined with coil overs (KW v3) and a stiffer front bar (ST 28mm w/PU bushings they supplied) and new Meyle HD front end links....car feels like a hoot. Tomorrow alignment and i will drive it for 100 kms and check all bolts again (as recommended by Whiteline). I did NOT do the rear sway bar, i dug up numerous thread and several owners here do not upgrade them on their race prepped cars, even with an LSD some stick to stock and TC Kline even stating that after experimenting, a larger rear bar was slower than with stock or even no rear bar. Basically, in a nut shell i did not want any issues, even with a LSD installed. I will replace the rear bar end links with HD ones, but that is it. Sorry for the long post, but standing up for 10 hours battling with rusted exhaust nuts, balancing a 200+ kg subframe and tackling tiny springs and cables for the hand brake took its toll on me...today ^^ Will "drive it like i stole it" after the alignment and 100 km "break in". |
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1and11851.50 chris_flies3027.00 |
12-18-2018, 03:38 PM | #10313 |
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^
Damn. Convinced me the inserts are good enough for me.
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E82 / BMWP Springs / Koni Yellows / M front control arms / Adjustable front endlinks / M rear guide rods / Whiteline Poly RSFB
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Zombie_Head594.00 |
12-18-2018, 05:22 PM | #10314 |
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So, after, like..., your 40th time doing rear subframe bushings I'm going to hit you up for a new post summarizing your experience- what you like and don't like, tips & tricks for the process, tools, things to watch out for when dropping the subframe more than just inserts require..... Pretty much anything- sum it up & spit it out for the benefit of the community!
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1and1
135i - E82.N54 2009 BSM - MHD / xHP / DCI, PR CP & 7.5" Race IC / N55 mid & Borla . . WL RSFI, Koni, Eibach & Dinan CP's, M3 CA's / EBC Red's & Firehawk 500's X1 - E84.N20 2013 MGM - JB4 - The Wife's, now with new turbo & ewg |
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12-18-2018, 11:36 PM | #10315 | |
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Well, the removal was a PITA because it was my fault, and all the DIYs i found here never mentioned anything on how the bushings should go in the frame.
Removing the OE soft bushings is dead easy, installing the whiteline bushings is even easier since they go in without any tools, just push them in with your fingers. Removing incorrectly installed front M3 SF bushings...... Quote:
- Get new brake lines for the rear, 95% chance they will snap. - Good idea to get SS lines all round. - Most suspension bolts down there are a massive PITA, especially if rusted. - It is a straight forward job, in terms of what needs to be done (i struggled due to incorrectly installed M3 bushings). -That special tool required makes life easier, just make sure that the front M3 bushings (if you get that route) go in from the top, and that tool is really tall. - If dropping the subframe, do as much as you can while you are in there. Hand brake shoes, maybe freshen the rear suspension bushings with OE/M3/PU your choice, sway bar end links, brakes etc. - When i used the rear of the subframe as a support point to lower the SF, it tilted forwards dramatically. So much that it took me maybe 1.5 hours of carefully "massaging" the whole frame to line up correctly. Using the diff as the "center" point is a lot better, it is nearly perfectly centered (but the front will always slightly top lower than the rear). Yet i have seen some threads here, that rear SF point was just fine for them, and they were able to lower the frame really low without issues, i could not (maybe due to the car being on a lift? unsure). - Hand brake cables will get stuck in their bores in the rear hubs due to rust getting between the cable and the hub (massive PITA). - Have fun re-assembling the rear hand brakes, that design has not changed since working on E30s (those springs will snap, pop and fly across the shop lol). - Quite a bit of TTY bolts, either refresh the bolts or get new ones and a magnetic/clip angle gauge or digital gauge is nice to have. -Mark the direction of the prop-shaft, so it goes in the same way/bolt pattern as removed. - The prop shaft to diff flange bolts: The manual (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-shaft/2erMhxY) indicated the M10X23-10-ZNS3 bolts should be torqued to 20 NM then 90 degrees, if you see the bolts they are tiny, and anything above 20-30 NM will snap the bolts (which caused me to worry). The original ones came out with very little effort, which made me believe that they were torqued down to 20 NM from the factory, or maybe 32NM i am unsure, but really anything more is just asking them to get snapped (i will check them this evening). - If you do this in your garage, be it lowering or removing the RSFB, plan on 2 days, take your time and be safe. It is not that bad, honestly i just made a couple of mistakes. I would highly recommend the whiteline bushings instead of M3 ones, since in the future removing those front M3 bushings will be a struggle and i noticed no noise or vibrations (i will report with mileage). I might do the M3 arms this weekend, if the shop lets me and use the simple string method to align the car. But it is the camber adjustment that i'm a bit concerned about. Maybe i can get a camber gauge from Amazon in time, not sure yet. |
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12-19-2018, 10:00 AM | #10316 |
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Did some exhaust cutting to line up my quad system better.
I had my doubts about these chain cutters but they worked great! |
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Zombie_Head594.00 Matticus913469.50 |
12-19-2018, 04:21 PM | #10317 |
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Car aligned at a very expensive shop, ride height checked, lazer this and that.
Apparently the shop that claimed -1.6 camber front was not accurate (string method), the max we could achieve on stock mounts were -1.3. Rear camber was set at -1.0 instead of -1.5. Bump and rebound readjusted, car is definitely firmer but not too bad. Checked all bolts, everything nice and tight, went for a fast drive. No noise, vibrations etc smooth and straight and much more stable. I am not happy with the steering feel at all (e-steering on all EU models), though i know where the front wheels are, and generally what they are doing (and direct steering) its...really dead-ish sadly. |
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12-19-2018, 05:45 PM | #10318 | |
Loves me some MHD!
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Your front camber config is stock upper and M3 lower?
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1and1
135i - E82.N54 2009 BSM - MHD / xHP / DCI, PR CP & 7.5" Race IC / N55 mid & Borla . . WL RSFI, Koni, Eibach & Dinan CP's, M3 CA's / EBC Red's & Firehawk 500's X1 - E84.N20 2013 MGM - JB4 - The Wife's, now with new turbo & ewg |
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