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      12-15-2018, 08:57 PM   #10297
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Originally Posted by varoadking View Post
I managed to pull the rear view mirror off of the windshield...
Take your car to safe light. They put mine back on for free after my numerous failed attempts. The stuff at the auto parts stores did not work for sh#$
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      12-15-2018, 08:58 PM   #10298
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Today I wrapped the trim piece on my steering wheel
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      12-16-2018, 01:51 PM   #10299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by asiflicious View Post
I felt the same way, the inserts made no noticeable difference whatsoever. After hearing everyone say that it's a must have, game changing mod, I was pretty disappointed with the results. I have the Whiteline 2 piece subframe bushings in my garage that I may end up replacing the inserts with one day but I'm in no rush
Huh...that's kinda odd. I definitely noticed a difference, admittedly not as huge as it's made out to be, but it was definitely better than before. I think I'll be getting some proper solid/urethane subframe mounts and diff bushings for X-Mas, which will (hopefully) be massive leaps forward.
Maybe I'd have felt a bigger difference if didn't have runflats when I had them put in. I had run flats, put the inserts in, then got non runflats. I felt no difference but that could be because the whole point of the inserts is to make up for the soft bushings that were put in by BMW to make up for the stiff runflats? Idk, Esteban also says he didn't feel a difference and I don't think he's been running runflats
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      12-17-2018, 04:54 PM   #10300
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Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
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      12-17-2018, 08:35 PM   #10301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
Yeah it's actually a pretty popular trend here in Texas. It doesn't really do it for me but whatever floats your boat.
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      12-17-2018, 08:36 PM   #10302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowsdower View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
Yeah it's actually a pretty popular trend here in Texas. It doesn't really do it for me but whatever floats your boat.
Got me excited there for a second before I saw the picture lol touche
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      12-17-2018, 08:44 PM   #10303
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      12-17-2018, 09:10 PM   #10304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
I've seen it can be done with some funky electrical adapter

But check out the E89 M sport wheel

https://www.diyautoftw.com/uploads/u...1493913049.jpg
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      12-17-2018, 09:13 PM   #10305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
I've seen it can be done with some funky electrical adapter

But check out the E89 M sport wheel

https://www.diyautoftw.com/uploads/u...1493913049.jpg
That does look nice! I just love the F series wheels and was looking at a custom one from nrw
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      12-17-2018, 10:02 PM   #10306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
The internet knows. Seems a bit of work is still needed, definitely not plug and play.

https://carsystems.com.ua/bmw-produc...fit-adapter-en

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowsdower View Post

Yeah it's actually a pretty popular trend here in Texas. It doesn't really do it for me but whatever floats your boat.
It's bigger, no denying that!
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      12-17-2018, 10:07 PM   #10307
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Originally Posted by low135 View Post

The centre of that wheel reminds me of this:

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      12-18-2018, 07:35 AM   #10308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
The internet knows. Seems a bit of work is still needed, definitely not plug and play.

https://carsystems.com.ua/bmw-produc...fit-adapter-en

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowsdower View Post

Yeah it's actually a pretty popular trend here in Texas. It doesn't really do it for me but whatever floats your boat.
It's bigger, no denying that!
You're my hero! Now to just figure out how to buy it from them haha I sent them an email to find out.

Ordered some small stuff this week. Placing my order for wheels this Friday. Merry Christmas to me!
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      12-18-2018, 07:38 AM   #10309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
The internet knows. Seems a bit of work is still needed, definitely not plug and play.

https://carsystems.com.ua/bmw-produc...fit-adapter-en

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowsdower View Post

Yeah it's actually a pretty popular trend here in Texas. It doesn't really do it for me but whatever floats your boat.
It's bigger, no denying that!
You're my hero! Now to just figure out how to buy it from them haha I sent them an email to find out.

Ordered some small stuff this week. Placing my order for wheels this Friday. Merry Christmas to me!
You're welcome. Take a look at their instructions online. It's no small task.
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      12-18-2018, 08:03 AM   #10310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Has anyone seen an F series steering wheel retrofitted to an E series 1er? I've asked a few places and no one seems to be able to answer this for me.
The internet knows. Seems a bit of work is still needed, definitely not plug and play.

https://carsystems.com.ua/bmw-produc...fit-adapter-en

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowsdower View Post

Yeah it's actually a pretty popular trend here in Texas. It doesn't really do it for me but whatever floats your boat.
It's bigger, no denying that!
You're my hero! Now to just figure out how to buy it from them haha I sent them an email to find out.

Ordered some small stuff this week. Placing my order for wheels this Friday. Merry Christmas to me!
You're welcome. Take a look at their instructions online. It's no small task.
Yeah car electronic stuff I typically don't touch much. Body and mechanical I'm fine with but electronics I turn into a third grader lol
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      12-18-2018, 01:42 PM   #10311
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Oil change and installed new steering wheel trim. Now instead of the matte chrome on the side, it's polished. Looks nice!
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      12-18-2018, 02:29 PM   #10312
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Just spent 10 hours at the DIY shop...what a day.

The plan was to drop the whole RSF and do the front M3 upper and lower arms.

2 hours in, all the bits connecting the RSF have been removed, including the prop-shaft.

Took us another 1 to properly "balance" that damn thing on the shop/jack support. Then we kept lowering it and balancing it slowly, eventually it reached shoulder height and i tackled the front bushings.

If you every install M3 RSFB-ings incorrectly, you will hate yourself removing the front ones. You need more clearance than you think, especially if you are using the special tool for the job (that tool alone needs 20+ cm of working *******.

Eventually, all bushings are out, everything cleaned and new whiteline PU bushings went in. Followed instructions to the letter, spent another hour guiding the KW rear shocks back into the mounts....that was a circus honestly.

Finally, everything went in and snapped a bolt at the exhaust header (125/128 cars have a one piece exhaust from bottom of headers to the muffler). Spent another hour trying to remove the bolt, no go, the head is rust fused in.

Went ahead, made sure all our markings on the prop shaft lined up, re did the hand brake cables (that alone was a circus of springs and fiddling with holes in the back that you can not see).

It was 19:00....the owner wanted to leave yet he knew i wanted to do the front arms and my alignment is tomorrow morning. I told him its ok, we are 1 hour after closing time and id rather do the RSFB that made the car unsettled and vibrations sorted before the M3 arms.

We triple checked all bolts, screws, washers etc...made sure all the torque numbers were correct several times. Since we were both tired, we figured spend 1 hour triple checking everything, since when you are tired you tend to forget things.

Bled the brakes, started the car, no exhaust leaks despite 1 less bolt upfront. Shifted fine, and drive fine. No vibrations or noises from the prop shaft or the PU bushings.

Slowly started to drive a tad more faster every few minutes on my way home. Car felt....eager, willing to "dive" into corners. Those PU RSFB combined with coil overs (KW v3) and a stiffer front bar (ST 28mm w/PU bushings they supplied) and new Meyle HD front end links....car feels like a hoot.

Tomorrow alignment and i will drive it for 100 kms and check all bolts again (as recommended by Whiteline).

I did NOT do the rear sway bar, i dug up numerous thread and several owners here do not upgrade them on their race prepped cars, even with an LSD some stick to stock and TC Kline even stating that after experimenting, a larger rear bar was slower than with stock or even no rear bar. Basically, in a nut shell i did not want any issues, even with a LSD installed. I will replace the rear bar end links with HD ones, but that is it.

Sorry for the long post, but standing up for 10 hours battling with rusted exhaust nuts, balancing a 200+ kg subframe and tackling tiny springs and cables for the hand brake took its toll on me...today ^^

Will "drive it like i stole it" after the alignment and 100 km "break in".
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      12-18-2018, 03:38 PM   #10313
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^

Damn. Convinced me the inserts are good enough for me.
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      12-18-2018, 05:22 PM   #10314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
Just spent 10 hours...

So, after, like..., your 40th time doing rear subframe bushings I'm going to hit you up for a new post summarizing your experience- what you like and don't like, tips & tricks for the process, tools, things to watch out for when dropping the subframe more than just inserts require.....


Pretty much anything- sum it up & spit it out for the benefit of the community!
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      12-18-2018, 11:36 PM   #10315
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^

Damn. Convinced me the inserts are good enough for me.
Well, the removal was a PITA because it was my fault, and all the DIYs i found here never mentioned anything on how the bushings should go in the frame.

Removing the OE soft bushings is dead easy, installing the whiteline bushings is even easier since they go in without any tools, just push them in with your fingers.

Removing incorrectly installed front M3 SF bushings......

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
So, after, like..., your 40th time doing rear subframe bushings I'm going to hit you up for a new post summarizing your experience- what you like and don't like, tips & tricks for the process, tools, things to watch out for when dropping the subframe more than just inserts require.....


Pretty much anything- sum it up & spit it out for the benefit of the community!
Technically 3 times in total, 1st one was my fault, second time was also my fault...kind of, 3rd time i spent a total of 2+ hours double and triple checking every single bolt, nut, washer, specs etc. a lot of stuff gets removed.

- Get new brake lines for the rear, 95% chance they will snap.

- Good idea to get SS lines all round.

- Most suspension bolts down there are a massive PITA, especially if rusted.

- It is a straight forward job, in terms of what needs to be done (i struggled due to incorrectly installed M3 bushings).

-That special tool required makes life easier, just make sure that the front M3 bushings (if you get that route) go in from the top, and that tool is really tall.

- If dropping the subframe, do as much as you can while you are in there. Hand brake shoes, maybe freshen the rear suspension bushings with OE/M3/PU your choice, sway bar end links, brakes etc.

- When i used the rear of the subframe as a support point to lower the SF, it tilted forwards dramatically. So much that it took me maybe 1.5 hours of carefully "massaging" the whole frame to line up correctly. Using the diff as the "center" point is a lot better, it is nearly perfectly centered (but the front will always slightly top lower than the rear). Yet i have seen some threads here, that rear SF point was just fine for them, and they were able to lower the frame really low without issues, i could not (maybe due to the car being on a lift? unsure).

- Hand brake cables will get stuck in their bores in the rear hubs due to rust getting between the cable and the hub (massive PITA).

- Have fun re-assembling the rear hand brakes, that design has not changed since working on E30s (those springs will snap, pop and fly across the shop lol).

- Quite a bit of TTY bolts, either refresh the bolts or get new ones and a magnetic/clip angle gauge or digital gauge is nice to have.

-Mark the direction of the prop-shaft, so it goes in the same way/bolt pattern as removed.

- The prop shaft to diff flange bolts: The manual (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-shaft/2erMhxY) indicated the M10X23-10-ZNS3 bolts should be torqued to 20 NM then 90 degrees, if you see the bolts they are tiny, and anything above 20-30 NM will snap the bolts (which caused me to worry). The original ones came out with very little effort, which made me believe that they were torqued down to 20 NM from the factory, or maybe 32NM i am unsure, but really anything more is just asking them to get snapped (i will check them this evening).

- If you do this in your garage, be it lowering or removing the RSFB, plan on 2 days, take your time and be safe. It is not that bad, honestly i just made a couple of mistakes. I would highly recommend the whiteline bushings instead of M3 ones, since in the future removing those front M3 bushings will be a struggle and i noticed no noise or vibrations (i will report with mileage).


I might do the M3 arms this weekend, if the shop lets me and use the simple string method to align the car. But it is the camber adjustment that i'm a bit concerned about. Maybe i can get a camber gauge from Amazon in time, not sure yet.
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      12-19-2018, 10:00 AM   #10316
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Did some exhaust cutting to line up my quad system better.


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I had my doubts about these chain cutters but they worked great!
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      12-19-2018, 04:21 PM   #10317
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Car aligned at a very expensive shop, ride height checked, lazer this and that.

Apparently the shop that claimed -1.6 camber front was not accurate (string method), the max we could achieve on stock mounts were -1.3. Rear camber was set at -1.0 instead of -1.5. Bump and rebound readjusted, car is definitely firmer but not too bad.

Checked all bolts, everything nice and tight, went for a fast drive. No noise, vibrations etc smooth and straight and much more stable. I am not happy with the steering feel at all (e-steering on all EU models), though i know where the front wheels are, and generally what they are doing (and direct steering) its...really dead-ish sadly.
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      12-19-2018, 05:45 PM   #10318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
Car aligned at a very expensive shop, ride height checked, lazer this and that.

Apparently the shop that claimed -1.6 camber front was not accurate (string method), the max we could achieve on stock mounts were -1.3.
Sorry- I'm old and forgetful...

Your front camber config is stock upper and M3 lower?
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