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      08-05-2018, 07:19 AM   #1
gixracer
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Ediff,brake force assist and other nannies

So out of curiosity who here has dove into the coding for the brake assist, e diff, power reduction ect. for their cars? I came to the revelation that when I was Mid Ohio aa couple of weeks ago the car was holding back in certain places because of the dsc coding. I had a chance to read through e90post and in our track forum a bit and found quite a bit of data and info.

One big thing was if anyone had coded out the e diff without installing a LSD, and what were your results?

Currently I don’t have the extra cash,because of the s65 project, to drop $2400 on the proper LSD.

If you guys can list what you have coded, to what setting and results that would be appreciated.
Let the ideas roll
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      08-05-2018, 09:32 AM   #2
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http://www.onelapx1.com/blog/how-to-...w-actually-fun

I think general consensus is to keep the actual eLSD enabled unless you have an LSD.

I got rid of the brake fade protection and brake fade compensation. I would've probably never seen them kick in on the street so I used it more for learning how to code. Also I found it ridiculous that the car would pull power with a complete guess from some equation.
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      08-05-2018, 10:41 AM   #3
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Yeah I read that one. I’m really curious to see if anyone has run open diff/ no e diff and what their car behaved like.
The whole brake compensation and power limiting is a pisser. When I had 135 6pots on the pedal was very inconsistent. It still varied with the f80 340’s but not as much. It will be interesting when I go back to one of the tracks with my new set up.
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      08-05-2018, 12:00 PM   #4
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When I installed my diff, I coded the eDiff out C0F_DIFF_LOCK (set to wert_00+wert_01), and took the opportunity to also code out the Brake Overheating C0F_FLR (set to wert_00+wert_02), and Brake Fade compensation C0F_FBS (set to wert_00).

When you installed the 135i Brembo's did you code the BMWP kit into the VO? This is supposed to change bias and possibly some other things, though it is difficult to find a straight answer. I have the BMWP/135i calipers and haven't had any inconsistency in the pedal that wasn't fixed by a quick bleed.
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      08-05-2018, 12:10 PM   #5
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I did it this stuff after welding my diff and can only say positive things. You definitely don't want to drive this car with an open diff. It will suck as much as the e-diff. If you can't afford a LSD, weld the diff. Locking or limited slip diff is a MUST HAVE, 100% needed feature for those who drive the car at the limit with DSC OFF.

Playing with e-diff or open diff on these cars is an absolute waste of time AND money since you spent god knows how much to buy a car that sucks at the intended use. Spend a little more and get that outside wheel some drive.
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      08-05-2018, 01:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowtrobot View Post

When you installed the 135i Brembo's did you code the BMWP kit into the VO? This is supposed to change bias and possibly some other things, though it is difficult to find a straight answer. I have the BMWP/135i calipers and haven't had any inconsistency in the pedal that wasn't fixed by a quick bleed.
My install was a bit different. I did a full 135 front and rear brake install which included full 135 rear carriers to include ebrake. I used 328 auto axles for big spline and correct length. My difference was that I have a 135 master so there was no need for performance brake coding to change bias. I may be incorrect for not coding. I have and had full stainless lines with both set ups.

By adding the kit into the VO what does it change?
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      08-05-2018, 01:20 PM   #7
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You could do an LSD swap (DIY-ing involved) for about $1200. Mine was about $1400 due to mistakes that were made with disassembly. I wouldn't code out the ediff until you have one, as it'll just be a plain open diff, and you'll spin all the power away mid-corner if you go near the throttle and it'll make the car feel unsettled. I built the diff myself with an MFactory 1.5-way LSD and used a donor 3.73 ratio diff from an Auto car. Huge difference in how the car drives, highly recommended.

I also coded out engine power reduction to prevent brake overheating, which didn't make any difference (I guess I don't push hard enough). I also got rid of brake fade compensation, brake wear compensation, ready active brakes (pre-tensions the pedal) and changed the front pressure model to 135i spec (firmed up the bottom end of the pedal) since I have larger F30 brake calipers.

All that being said, one of the more rewarding and interesting changes I made was to the oversteer coefficient of friction. It added another "mode" to the DTC/DSC button. It didn't change at all when everything is on, but with the DTC light illuminated there is a lot more slip angle allowed (there wasn't any allowed before) before the stability protocols step-in (and a lot smoother), and then with everything off it's off.

More advanced stuff, and comparisons to 1M coding:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...1216642&page=5

The OneLapX1 article, edited to fit the 1'er:
https://bmw135iblog.wordpress.com/20...track-nannies/
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      08-05-2018, 01:40 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
All that being said, one of the more rewarding and interesting changes I made was to the oversteer coefficient of friction.
This is a bad idea. Not only will you get used to the idea of a "safety net" while developing your skills, but more to the point, if you need stability control at all you are driving a car that's beyond your capabilities. For an experienced driver, stability control only serves to make a car unpredictable and unbalanced at the worst possible time.
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      08-05-2018, 01:43 PM   #9
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Right now I have the 3.73 in it and it makes the car more track friendly with less rpm drop between gears. Life is better that way and I have come to terms with it on the street. The diff is going to have to come sometime because this car is very capable despite the street only guys whining about understeer. I did find that understeer in the carousel at Mid Ohio though. The LSD would probably help mid corner and exit manners and reduce the understeer.

At this point I think other than e diff I will be mimicking the 1m coding along with brake force/heat/engine power/pad wear nannies removed. The oversteer with the 1m coding will be interesting.
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      08-05-2018, 02:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
This is a bad idea. Not only will you get used to the idea of a "safety net" while developing your skills, but more to the point, if you need stability control at all you are driving a car that's beyond your capabilities. For an experienced driver, stability control only serves to make a car unpredictable and unbalanced at the worst possible time.
I use it on the street (or a particularly wet track), so I'm not risking anyone's safety (too much) in case something goes sideways and so that I can play with the car a little bit in low traction situations. It'll be a godsend once winter and snow comes around (and an LSD will also be a huge help)!

It's still too dimwitted and slow to use on the track. It's frustrated me since day one of my track driving experiences. I am going to try it for a little though, and see how much leeway it really gives, as well as on the skid pad.
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      08-05-2018, 02:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixracer View Post
Right now I have the 3.73 in it and it makes the car more track friendly with less rpm drop between gears. Life is better that way and I have come to terms with it on the street. The diff is going to have to come sometime because this car is very capable despite the street only guys whining about understeer. I did find that understeer in the carousel at Mid Ohio though. The LSD would probably help mid corner and exit manners and reduce the understeer.

At this point I think other than e diff I will be mimicking the 1m coding along with brake force/heat/engine power/pad wear nannies removed. The oversteer with the 1m coding will be interesting.
It's truly amazing how easily you can tune these cars behavior with simple software tweaks. Now I can use my "goldilocks mode" on rainy days to let the wheels spin a bit more, and it'll let the car get a bit sideways on tight second gear turns with a smooth intervention as things get wilder.

The LSD (a clutch-type at least, I don't know about a helical) won't help much (or at all) with understeer. For me, I've found the on-braking and on-throttle understeer to be noticeably more present (on the street, that is), but the car will do a nice dive into the inside with a slight lift of the throttle (which then puts you in as an open diff, since there is no lockup). It's also WAY more stable when you've got some hoof in it in a corner (a result of understeer). And the way it claws itself through red light right handers and into fast traffic is addicting...

EDIT: The street guys are complaining because they probably still have measly 225's-or-so in the front (or a less grippy tire). Put some 245's up there (or just stickier tires), and the thing simply grips and rips. I was astonished at the speeds I could carry through corners, and it still wasn't squealing! FFI500's for the win!
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      08-06-2018, 09:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post

EDIT: The street guys are complaining because they probably still have measly 225's-or-so in the front (or a less grippy tire). Put some 245's up there (or just stickier tires), and the thing simply grips and rips. I was astonished at the speeds I could carry through corners, and it still wasn't squealing! FFI500's for the win!
yep go the rubber up front and corner speeds are awesome, Just want use every bit of power I have that isn’t controlled by some mysterious algorithm.

Coded the car last night so it’s ready for the 22nd at gigerman with the SCCA track night. Unfortunately I know I have enough rubber for 1/2 a day and this will be 3-20 min sessions. This set is cooked from the previous 4 full track days. I think the kumho ps91’s are ok but more grip will be needed on the next set.
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      08-06-2018, 09:37 AM   #13
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A 128i might be able to get away with coding the e-diff off. The 135i makes too much torque and you will end up spinning the inside tire trying to put power down coming out of corners. I tried it at a track day once and while I wasn't any slower I also wasn't any faster. The car did feel better in some places though while being slower in others (spinning tires).

I would not waste your time making coding changes to things like under-steer thresholds. Those variables are tuned by chassis which have different COG, wheelbase, weight distribution, etc. Just hold the DSC button down for 5 seconds and turn it all off...
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      08-06-2018, 01:05 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
A 128i might be able to get away with coding the e-diff off. The 135i makes too much torque and you will end up spinning the inside tire trying to put power down coming out of corners. I tried it at a track day once and while I wasn't any slower I also wasn't any faster. The car did feel better in some places though while being slower in others (spinning tires).

I would not waste your time making coding changes to things like under-steer thresholds. Those variables are tuned by chassis which have different COG, wheelbase, weight distribution, etc. Just hold the DSC button down for 5 seconds and turn it all off...
The 128 can easily light up the inside wheel. Every time I went near throttle before the LSD, I would get the feeling that the computer was correcting the one tire fire. Now, it hauls a$$ out of corners with the LSD and the lack of interference.

I won't touch the understeer data since I see I've never had interference from understeer, and the car just doesn't want to understeer. The oversteer data is what made the DSC functions more into a 3-mode system. It's super easy to drive, and a joy in low traction situations with the DSC light on.
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      08-06-2018, 01:24 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
The 128 can easily light up the inside wheel. Every time I went near throttle before the LSD, I would get the feeling that the computer was correcting the one tire fire. Now, it hauls a$$ out of corners with the LSD and the lack of interference.

I won't touch the understeer data since I see I've never had interference from understeer, and the car just doesn't want to understeer. The oversteer data is what made the DSC functions more into a 3-mode system. It's super easy to drive, and a joy in low traction situations with the DSC light on.
You are supposed to drive in "traction control" mode in "low traction" conditions. Give the DSC button a single click.
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      08-06-2018, 02:56 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
The 128 can easily light up the inside wheel. Every time I went near throttle before the LSD, I would get the feeling that the computer was correcting the one tire fire. Now, it hauls a$$ out of corners with the LSD and the lack of interference.

I won't touch the understeer data since I see I've never had interference from understeer, and the car just doesn't want to understeer. The oversteer data is what made the DSC functions more into a 3-mode system. It's super easy to drive, and a joy in low traction situations with the DSC light on.
You are supposed to drive in "traction control" mode in "low traction" conditions. Give the DSC button a single click.
And having more slip allowed lets you maintain forward momentum. The DTC didn't let much-if any-slip happen, and killed momentum. I still have the normal mode for normal driving, but the added slip is a huge help in slippery situations, and it leaves more safety net than everything off (stability control simply intervenes later and less aggressively).
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