BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      01-15-2014, 08:37 AM   #45
TheSt|G
Resident Tamed Racing Driver
TheSt|G's Avatar
United_States
241
Rep
4,736
Posts

Drives: 911, 130is, E39 M5, E36 M3
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Outside Philly

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Look good on these grey colours. I dont even think you need tint.

Where did you get your Mudflaps from? What were the part #?
Looks like the factory flaps:

82160309650 Each$24.75$18.56 1 Series Mud Flaps [ Front ]

82160430733 Each$29.25$21.94 1 Series Mud Flaps [ Rear ]
__________________
2005 E46 M3 Interlagos/Cinnamon with Sunroof Delete
Appreciate 0
      01-15-2014, 09:33 AM   #46
Blacksport
Second Lieutenant
Blacksport's Avatar
38
Rep
230
Posts

Drives: 2013 128i
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Ft Lauderdale

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dushkara View Post
How did you open the 3 wire clip? is there a mechanism? And yes you are right, they are cool!!
Take a tiny screwdriver and just lever the flap up, then you have to push the metal "bump" down on the lead while pulling and it'll come out...just snap it into the open slot....now the middle slot is empty.

One other thing about painting the bulbs....use BBQ black from Rustoleum, preferably from a can, not spray...you can then dip the bulbs....leave them out of the lens for a hour or so with the lights on so the paint "cures".

Obviously, get the bulbs coded off whenever you can.....
__________________
'13 128i 6sp, 06 Hemi Durango, '17 Ducati SuperSport S Gone But Not Forgotten: 74 Z28, 77 Datsun 280Z (1st 5sp in US), 92 Nissan 300ZTT, 94 MB SL600 V12, 01 M Roadster, 66 Yamaha TwinJet 100, 70 Suzuki X6 Hustler Race: GP/FP Spitfire SCCA, Merlyn FF SCCA, Mazda RX7 IMSA GTU, Yamaha FZR 400 AMA.
Appreciate 1
      01-15-2014, 10:50 AM   #47
Dushkara
Private
United_States
10
Rep
85
Posts

Drives: '12 128i ,'08 135i(RIP)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: West Middle Earth

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Look good on these grey colours. I dont even think you need tint.

Where did you get your Mudflaps from? What were the part #?

They are OEM. I got them from getbmwparts.com
Appreciate 0
      06-08-2015, 09:03 PM   #48
$iriu$black
First Lieutenant
52
Rep
306
Posts

Drives: 2012 BMW 128
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NE

iTrader: (4)

I just read this and I was

Does anybody know how to code this at all? If that's even done before?

I really thought this was plug and play on ALL cars, LCI or not. Maybe it does, but just pre LCI cars(Halogen or Xenon).

Last edited by $iriu$black; 06-09-2015 at 09:45 AM.
Appreciate 0
      06-24-2015, 08:05 PM   #49
1smokehouse
Second Lieutenant
1smokehouse's Avatar
Guam
119
Rep
231
Posts

Drives: 2013 135i DCT
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Guam

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2013 BMW 135i  [0.00]
2013 BMW 128i LE  [4.50]
I was on the ECS website and came across the footwell module that they say is needed to run LCI tail lights.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...hts/ES2745051/

Is this what we are missing in our halogen LCI cars? If so, looks like we would need a wiring harness too...
__________________


// '13 SGM 135i M-Sport DCT PPK //
Appreciate 0
      06-25-2015, 06:05 AM   #50
Chandon
Major
Chandon's Avatar
Australia
70
Rep
1,083
Posts

Drives: 1M
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
I just read this and I was

Does anybody know how to code this at all? If that's even done before?

I really thought this was plug and play on ALL cars, LCI or not. Maybe it does, but just pre LCI cars(Halogen or Xenon).
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1smokehouse View Post
I was on the ECS website and came across the footwell module that they say is needed to run LCI tail lights.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...hts/ES2745051/

Is this what we are missing in our halogen LCI cars? If so, looks like we would need a wiring harness too...
Lol omg don't fall for ECS bait.
Guys you don't need any footwell module or wiring harness for LCI halogen cars.. I'ts as simple as tapping in one extra wire to power the LED and pulling out the current running light wire.
As explained many many times, the LCI halogen cars are MISSING that wire that powers the LED running lights, all you need to do is buy a wire, tap it in from another power source nearby (e.g. license plate lights) and plug it into the loom/socket where the wire was missing, then remove the wire that powers the EXISTING running light. When this is done, the LED bar will light up whenever the license plate lights are on (which is always), and brake lights will work sufficiently. The inner brake light will not light up, the outer brake light will light up, the 3rd brake light will light up and it's far enough for people to tell you're braking.
Before anyone asks - NO it will not throw an error on the dash, NO you do not need coding, NO you do not need a new footwell module. I am speaking from personal experience, this is EXACTLY what I did and it worked fine.
Appreciate 1
      06-25-2015, 08:31 AM   #51
$iriu$black
First Lieutenant
52
Rep
306
Posts

Drives: 2012 BMW 128
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NE

iTrader: (4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by viciousgook View Post
Lol omg don't fall for ECS bait.
Guys you don't need any footwell module or wiring harness for LCI halogen cars.. I'ts as simple as tapping in one extra wire to power the LED and pulling out the current running light wire.
As explained many many times, the LCI halogen cars are MISSING that wire that powers the LED running lights, all you need to do is buy a wire, tap it in from another power source nearby (e.g. license plate lights) and plug it into the loom/socket where the wire was missing, then remove the wire that powers the EXISTING running light. When this is done, the LED bar will light up whenever the license plate lights are on (which is always), and brake lights will work sufficiently. The inner brake light will not light up, the outer brake light will light up, the 3rd brake light will light up and it's far enough for people to tell you're braking.
Before anyone asks - NO it will not throw an error on the dash, NO you do not need coding, NO you do not need a new footwell module. I am speaking from personal experience, this is EXACTLY what I did and it worked fine.
Yea another member here told me that for LCI cars, we have the most recent footwell module so no need for that. What kind of wire is it exactly that we need to get and where can we get it? What I did was take one wire on the outer light and transferred it to the LED power source. Don't have the outer light but all else works. One thing though is the LEDs are not as bright as I expected them when running them in daylight. I don't know if we can do anything with that...
Appreciate 0
      06-25-2015, 08:46 AM   #52
Chandon
Major
Chandon's Avatar
Australia
70
Rep
1,083
Posts

Drives: 1M
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
Yea another member here told me that for LCI cars, we have the most recent footwell module so no need for that. What kind of wire is it exactly that we need to get and where can we get it? What I did was take one wire on the outer light and transferred it to the LED power source. Don't have the outer light but all else works. One thing though is the LEDs are not as bright as I expected them when running them in daylight. I don't know if we can do anything with that...
That's what I did at first, although I swapped the inner brake light wire - not the outer. It lit up fine but was dim and when I stepped on the brakes it lit up brighter, acted as both a running light and brake light. It got annoying to eventually I hooked up an extra wire to the license plate LED's back to the tail light wires and it worked perfectly.
You can just get any durable wire from an automotive shop and either solder it in or twist it, both work fine.
Appreciate 0
      06-25-2015, 09:20 AM   #53
$iriu$black
First Lieutenant
52
Rep
306
Posts

Drives: 2012 BMW 128
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NE

iTrader: (4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by viciousgook View Post
That's what I did at first, although I swapped the inner brake light wire - not the outer. It lit up fine but was dim and when I stepped on the brakes it lit up brighter, acted as both a running light and brake light. It got annoying to eventually I hooked up an extra wire to the license plate LED's back to the tail light wires and it worked perfectly.
You can just get any durable wire from an automotive shop and either solder it in or twist it, both work fine.
Is there any specification to the wire I should get? I am no electrical guy and rewiring isn't my thing though I am willing to learn. It is def a lot of work to get the same effect. At night, I think the LED intensity is fine so I guess I am going to stick to what I am if the additional wiring doesn't work for me.

GOod thing I did not buy mine from ECS as they're more expensive. And believe it or not mine got here in less than a week buying it from Schmiedmann.
Appreciate 0
      06-25-2015, 09:26 AM   #54
Chandon
Major
Chandon's Avatar
Australia
70
Rep
1,083
Posts

Drives: 1M
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
Is there any specification to the wire I should get? I am no electrical guy and rewiring isn't my thing though I am willing to learn. It is def a lot of work to get the same effect. At night, I think the LED intensity is fine so I guess I am going to stick to what I am if the additional wiring doesn't work for me.

GOod thing I did not buy mine from ECS as they're more expensive. And believe it or not mine got here in less than a week buying it from Schmiedmann.
Not that I am aware of, wires are just wires to me lol, not much of an electrician and sure as hell I suck at wiring.

It's been a long time since I had my tail lights re-wired.. Around two years ago? So I'm not entirely clear on what I did EXACTLY back then. When I did the xenon headlight conversion I had my tail lights wired up correctly and coded to work with the xenon retrofit.

In all honesty, if it works fine now I would just leave it, unless you're really OCD about them. We seriously need a sticky for the LCI Halogen guys so they will stop asking the same question
Appreciate 0
      06-25-2015, 09:35 AM   #55
$iriu$black
First Lieutenant
52
Rep
306
Posts

Drives: 2012 BMW 128
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NE

iTrader: (4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by viciousgook View Post
Not that I am aware of, wires are just wires to me lol, not much of an electrician and sure as hell I suck at wiring.

It's been a long time since I had my tail lights re-wired.. Around two years ago? So I'm not entirely clear on what I did EXACTLY back then. When I did the xenon headlight conversion I had my tail lights wired up correctly and coded to work with the xenon retrofit.

In all honesty, if it works fine now I would just leave it, unless you're really OCD about them. We seriously need a sticky for the LCI Halogen guys so they will stop asking the same question
I know, there SHOULD be a sticky for this.

Is there anyway you can send me (PM me) some more info as to what you did to do that conversion? Is that using OEM or aftermarket lights?

yeah I'll just stick to how it looks like now I guess. But thanks though for the help!
Appreciate 0
      08-19-2015, 09:37 PM   #56
Gray_Panther
Colonel
Gray_Panther's Avatar
746
Rep
2,608
Posts

Drives: 128i
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black
Quote:
Originally Posted by viciousgook View Post
Not that I am aware of, wires are just wires to me lol, not much of an electrician and sure as hell I suck at wiring.

It's been a long time since I had my tail lights re-wired.. Around two years ago? So I'm not entirely clear on what I did EXACTLY back then. When I did the xenon headlight conversion I had my tail lights wired up correctly and coded to work with the xenon retrofit.

In all honesty, if it works fine now I would just leave it, unless you're really OCD about them. We seriously need a sticky for the LCI Halogen guys so they will stop asking the same question
I know, there SHOULD be a sticky for this.

Is there anyway you can send me (PM me) some more info as to what you did to do that conversion? Is that using OEM or aftermarket lights?

yeah I'll just stick to how it looks like now I guess. But thanks though for the help!
I just installed them. Here is what I did to swap wires:
-take a pick (similar to what dentists use) and on the sides of the connector you will see that it unlatches.
-take the pick on each end and pry off.
-take the pick and stick it where you see the metal clip right below the latch (where the pins connect to).
-push in the metal clip and push up and out. That clip holds the pin socket in place. You can grab the wire and wiggle it out at this point.

-Then just slide it into the other socket until you hear a click. Voila.
__________________
2012 BMW 128i 6MT Deep Sea Blue Metallic
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2016, 04:14 PM   #57
markslc1
Second Lieutenant
51
Rep
260
Posts

Drives: 08 128i 6sp
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Mill Creek, WA

iTrader: (1)

LCI blacklines

New 1 owner and need some blacklines.
My car: 08 128i with halogen headlights and standard tails. Please clarify that I can get the LCI blacklines part #63212225282 to work with a bit of wiring.

Looking to buy from schmiedmann.com
Appreciate 0
      03-08-2016, 01:12 AM   #58
Velomobile
New Member
3
Rep
14
Posts

Drives: LCI AW 128i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern California

iTrader: (0)

Hey guys - I came at the LCI Halogen wiring from a different angle that I wanted to share in case helpful for anyone.

I wanted the choice for both the side/brake combo filament bulb to run in addition to the LED bars or to pull the bulb and just run the LED bars or black out the rest a la Blacksport's suggestion so I wanted to do the "Jump" wire option (transfer power from Slot 2 to 1 - keeping power to both) instead of the "wire-moved-from-2-to-1-in-harness" route.

Name:  1.jpg
Views: 647
Size:  52.8 KB

That being said I was nervous splicing any wire etc. on the wiring harness side and figured the bulb socket was easier to replace if I messed anything up, so I did a quick and easy mod to the socket itself.

The first step is to remove the bulb socket - and bulb, and pry the two little fangs (grey) that hold the inner bulb socket in place.

BEFORE you pull the inner socket out, you may want to put some kind of marking on the side of the outer socket so you know which side 1 vs 3 is on, without having to look at the markings

Name:  2.jpg
Views: 649
Size:  61.6 KB

Next up - remember we are trying to link connection point 2 with connection 1 - so when you flip the socket over to work on it - it it will be apparent why it's important to know in advance which sides you're looking to connect without having to refer to the markings

It will also become really obvious how the 3 connection points work once you get the inner socket out. Also be CAREFUL about flipping the outer socket over once you have the inner socket out - as these metal contacts can now fall out (no big deal if they do, since it's also pretty straight forward how to put them back in).

Name:  3.jpg
Views: 647
Size:  64.3 KB

Since we know which sides we're looking to connect before we touch anything - we should be confident we're going to be connecting Wire 1 and 2. I'm pretty sure connecting 2 and 3 would be a really bad idea (power to ground???) so make sure you again know which side you're connecting. And from there it was easy to fit a little flux through the outer socket and connect the two contact points (1 and 2) internally using a soldering element.

Name:  4.jpg
Views: 638
Size:  63.8 KB

When it's done - it should look like this.. At this point hold everything in place (the contacts from sliding out) and flip it back over and for sanity check make sure again you've connected points 1 and 2 and NOT 2 and 3

Name:  5.jpg
Views: 642
Size:  77.4 KB

Replace the inner socket - here's where it will sort of test your soldering skills, if you left too big a dimple, it might take a little massaging to get it all down. Worst case you may have to use the iron again to flatten out your solder job.

Once the job is smooth enough to get the inner socket clipped into place, work the bulb into the clip a few times just pressing in and out so it will seat itself in case the main bulb filament spring (the big prong) needs to settle again.

Name:  6.jpg
Views: 637
Size:  62.5 KB

And that's it! It will function as though you have a jumper wire connecting 1 and 2 without any modification to the wiring harness side. Old lights will remain plug and play.

Now the question is - to continue running full stack of filament bulbs in addition to the led bars or use canbus error-free LED replacements and Blacksport's high temp paint dip trick? Although I also sort of wonder about those led bars as standalone brake lights being bright enough at night vs. their running mode

And then of course there's the rear fog lights which would be a HUGE loss ... (perfect for certain "conditions" ;]).

Anyhow, hope this write-up helps someone out! Cheers

Last edited by Velomobile; 03-08-2016 at 01:39 AM.
Appreciate 0
      03-08-2016, 03:49 PM   #59
markslc1
Second Lieutenant
51
Rep
260
Posts

Drives: 08 128i 6sp
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Mill Creek, WA

iTrader: (1)

This sounds a whole lot easier than running new wires. Are you saying there is a downside? Or is the result the same taking your approach or running the wire from the license plate?
Appreciate 0
      03-08-2016, 07:04 PM   #60
Velomobile
New Member
3
Rep
14
Posts

Drives: LCI AW 128i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern California

iTrader: (0)

The only difference I'd see between this setup and tapping the license plate light to power the led bars (via running the wire into halogen stock "unpowered" slot 1 on the lights) is that with my mod the LED bars also activate dual wattage as running + then brake lights (brighter when you hit the brake).

This may or may not be desire-able depending on what you want it to look like back there. I believe stock LCI Xenon tail wiring doesn't light up the LED bars on a higher wattage when you hit the brake (correct me if I'm wrong though if anyone knows for sure)
Appreciate 0
      09-30-2017, 12:14 AM   #61
Velomobile
New Member
3
Rep
14
Posts

Drives: LCI AW 128i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern California

iTrader: (0)

Update here: I've been messing around with the Carly BMW OBD Adapter and the Full Version app allows you to disable voltage monitoring for pretty much all the exterior lights.

It has allowed me to remove 3 bulbs per tail light

1) Rear Fog (inner most)
2) Inner Brake (middle)
3) Outer Brake (outer)

And code the voltage monitoring off for them. The tail lights are now super slick ALL TUBE-LIT (bars that run as parking lights, and up-current for braking with no incandescent lag - a feature not readily available on the actual stock Xenon model LCI's.. which from factory on those cars are just steady state running lights) + Trunk LED bar functioning as normal :]

They are now very cool and pretty exotic looking tail lights without any visible incandescents or individual led's

If anyone wants to try this let me know and I can give you details on coding. I also finished my Bi-Xenon e46 inspired retrofit and should be providing an update there eventually as well. Cheers all!
Appreciate 2
      10-08-2017, 11:06 AM   #62
WDE82
First Lieutenant
183
Rep
378
Posts

Drives: '13 128i 3-pedal
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Huntsville, AL

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Velomobile View Post
Update here: I've been messing around with the Carly BMW OBD Adapter and the Full Version app allows you to disable voltage monitoring for pretty much all the exterior lights.

It has allowed me to remove 3 bulbs per tail light

1) Rear Fog (inner most)
2) Inner Brake (middle)
3) Outer Brake (outer)

And code the voltage monitoring off for them. The tail lights are now super slick ALL TUBE-LIT (bars that run as parking lights, and up-current for braking with no incandescent lag - a feature not readily available on the actual stock Xenon model LCI's.. which from factory on those cars are just steady state running lights) + Trunk LED bar functioning as normal :]

They are now very cool and pretty exotic looking tail lights without any visible incandescents or individual led's

If anyone wants to try this let me know and I can give you details on coding. I also finished my Bi-Xenon e46 inspired retrofit and should be providing an update there eventually as well. Cheers all!
Of course people want details and pics. Make a new thread for it.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      10-09-2017, 12:17 AM   #63
Murphy8
New Member
0
Rep
5
Posts

Drives: 128i coupe
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: San Jose

iTrader: (0)

I am in need of your help. I am a newbie to this forum & I have scoured & read every thread on the 128i Halogen vs Xenon taillights. I have a 2012 128i with Halogen headlights. My taillights I have no clue what they are but the LED line does not Turn on. I've read that your can jump wires if you have a certain Taillight to turn it on & have the lights display the LED Line like the picture you posted. If this is possible, how do I accomplish this. I appreciate any help & thank you again!
Appreciate 0
      04-18-2018, 04:46 PM   #64
taranfx
taranfx
taranfx's Avatar
United_States
14
Rep
167
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i (N55) || 2015 328i
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Santa clara, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Velomobile View Post
Update here: I've been messing around with the Carly BMW OBD Adapter and the Full Version app allows you to disable voltage monitoring for pretty much all the exterior lights.

It has allowed me to remove 3 bulbs per tail light

1) Rear Fog (inner most)
2) Inner Brake (middle)
3) Outer Brake (outer)

And code the voltage monitoring off for them. The tail lights are now super slick ALL TUBE-LIT (bars that run as parking lights, and up-current for braking with no incandescent lag - a feature not readily available on the actual stock Xenon model LCI's.. which from factory on those cars are just steady state running lights) + Trunk LED bar functioning as normal :]

They are now very cool and pretty exotic looking tail lights without any visible incandescents or individual led's

If anyone wants to try this let me know and I can give you details on coding. I also finished my Bi-Xenon e46 inspired retrofit and should be providing an update there eventually as well. Cheers all!
Please post it
__________________
2011 Z4 E89 35is 2015 F30 328i
Appreciate 0
      05-05-2018, 08:19 AM   #65
minirips2
Second Lieutenant
148
Rep
206
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i 6M CR Slicktop
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Illinois

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone here successfully installed the Schmiedmann Blacklines on a PRE-LCI Halogen model? The reason I'm asking is because I just did, and have no running lights with headlights turned on. Original tail lights are back in. Now, it's time to grab my VOM and try to figure out why the tail light bulb on the Blacklines isn't coming on.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:51 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST