Nolathane rear subframe bushings review

[walkie86]

Originally Posted by Cavs

Sorry to bring this old thread up, but where in Sydney can you get the bushings installed without removing the whole subframe?

Speak to Julian or Myles at Renotech (Hornsby). I've used them for years on my old Renaultsports: they're brilliant and fitted the bushes to my 130i quickly and easily. FYI I got quoted (over the phone) from a great Euro workshop in Darlinghurst $600-800 including subframe removal, for fitting the bushes.

http://renotech.com.au/

I've now had them installed for a few months so can comment. Minor increase in NVH, which I've forgotten about now but do remember a slightly more pronounced thud over joints in the road. Other than that, everything else is positive - power goes down a lot better, TC lights comes on less often and rear grip is improved on long bends. Highly recommended mod.

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by vtl

Engine undertray must be removed, none of the wheel well liner needs to be removed.

Steering rack must be lowered, just remove the 2 bolts and let it hang, lowering it gives you clearance to fully remove the control arm bolt.

No need to disturb the rack. Just rotate the front wheels to extend the bellows on the side you are working on and mash it a bit to allow the bolt head to clear.

The M3 lower control arm inner ball joint is wider than the stock bush so you'll need to coax it in. Dont be afraid but that is the most annoying part of doing the front arms apart from the mandatory alignment and potential for stuck ball joints in the knuckle (but since you are not reusing the old arms anytime soon, you can feel free to choose what approach if you encounter stubbornness)

[vtl]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

No need to disturb the rack. Just rotate the front wheels to extend the bellows on the side you are working on and mash it a bit to allow the bolt head to clear.

The M3 lower control arm inner ball joint is wider than the stock bush so you'll need to coax it in. Dont be afraid but that is the most annoying part of doing the front arms apart from the mandatory alignment and potential for stuck ball joints in the knuckle (but since you are not reusing the old arms anytime soon, you can feel free to choose what approach if you encounter stubbornness)

Yeah I've tried putting the wheel on pull lock and never had luck getting the bolt through. I was able to get the left side in but not the right side. I can unbolt the rack in about 30 seconds with an electric ratchet so dropping the rack works for me. I don't want to risk damaging the rubber bellows.

I made a special spreader tool for opening up the gap for the M3 arm, just used a piece of M12 threaded rod and two nuts which can expand the gap with very little effort.

[BMW2C135]

Hi Vince,
Would you be keen to give me a hand to replace my subframe bushes? Happy to help out in any way as well?
You've got all the tools and learnings!

Cheers