m3 cowl and strut braces

RedRanger · 09-03-2015, 12:23 AM

Best bet is to find a 3d printer in the forum and have them 3d print new covers with an indent. "Yea, Science Bitch!"

I am planning on doing this cowl change as well. Good to know about the clearance issues. Time for a 3d printer to do a group buy on new black covers.

PeteA · 09-03-2015, 01:28 AM

I'd like to see how this looks on an N55

gap · 09-03-2015, 04:37 AM

My first thought was to heat the plastic with a heat gun and try to push it down but thought this may damage the plastic and warp the cover.
3D printing would be great but it is a complex shape that would require a bit of time to
scan.
Looking forward to seeing other solutions to this.

vtl · 09-03-2015, 06:36 AM

Looks like it might be possible to just interchange the washers with something that is low profile. Alternatively stock unheated washers look like they could be modified with a dremel, although its a fair amount of work

E30 spray nozzle:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Spray/ES2594813/

Not sure how close the fitment would be. Also you'd lose the heated washers (not an issue for me in Australia)

gap · 09-04-2015, 05:00 PM

Put water in the cutout box until the bottom of the washer nozzle touched it when the hood was closed. There needs to be 3/4" extra clearance for the nozzles.
The nozzles are 1.5" so there is only 3/4" clearance for the nozzle with the stock M3 filter covers. The plastic piece below the windshield has a metal frame member
behind it so mounting E90 washers there will be difficult. The cutouts I made are about 3/4" too deep so I will fill then Bondo and sand the indents to look more like the factory ones
on the front edge.
One of my washer nozzle retainer clips was broken off, don't know when it happened but think opening and closing the hood without clearance would eventually break the plastic parts.
Hood switch latch piece is about 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" and 1" thick. Trimmed to fit the hood frame.
Found these hose clamps at Grainger and used Zip Ties to attach to the cowl. 95* outside and with a fully warmed engine the exhaust size clip was at 170* so within the temp range.
My first filter cover attempt was pretty much a rush hack job and I will get back to it in a month or so.

gap · 09-05-2015, 04:52 PM

It was bugging me not being finished now that I knew what to do.
Glad to be done!

Water temp seems to be running about 10 degrees cooler now.

vtl · 09-06-2015, 07:25 PM

Looking much better now! How was it done? Was it done with filler then painted over the top?

How does this cowl improve cooling? My lower covers have arrived in the post and I can't work out how it would improve cooling without extra vents?

gap · 09-06-2015, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtl

Looking much better now! How was it done? Was it done with filler then painted over the top?

How does this cowl improve cooling? My lower covers have arrived in the post and I can't work out how it would improve cooling without extra vents?

The boxes I made for the cutout area were 3/4" deeper than needed.
I cut 3/4" thick plywood pieces to fit then used Bondo filler, sanded and painted.

My thoughts on the cooling is that there are open areas on the lower sides of
the engine and now there is a lot less restriction for air to flow through the
engine bay. The only measured difference I've see is that my P3 gauge show temps
staying more around 200 instead of what I have been seeing as staying around 210. Could just be the placebo effect.

vtl · 09-06-2015, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gap

The boxes I made for the cutout area were 3/4" deeper than needed.
I cut 3/4" thick plywood pieces to fit then used Bondo filler, sanded and painted.

My thoughts on the cooling is that there are open areas on the lower sides of
the engine and now there is a lot less restriction for air to flow through the
engine bay. The only measured difference I've see is that my P3 gauge show temps
staying more around 200 instead of what I have been seeing as staying around 210. Could just be the placebo effect.

What kind of paint was used? Looks like a really good match. I just received my upper covers today so will trial fit them tonight and see how bad the washers fit. I will probably go the route of finding lower profile spray nozzles.

gap · 09-07-2015, 10:41 AM

Agree that a low profile nozzle that would fit without modifying the filter covers would be
the best route. Here in the southern USA there is no need for heated windshield fluid. Hope you find a nozzle that will work.

Paint on the left is what I started out with. A bit too glossy but probably a good primer
for the plastic. The one on the right is the finish coat.

c0ris07 · 09-13-2015, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gap

It was bugging me not being finished now that I knew what to do.
Glad to be done!

Water temp seems to be running about 10 degrees cooler now.

Any chance you can measure the cut-outs you did so I can replicate them before putting on my car. I'd rather have it already done before I start the whole swap process than doing once installed...

Also have you thought about running the M3 cable duct in front?

vtl · 09-13-2015, 11:54 PM

I think I am going to end up doing cutouts instead of finding some nozzles that will fit the bonnet. The top covers I got were second hand and have a few light scratches on them so it would probably be worth painting them anyways. I did find that the long rubber seal is about 20mm too short on each side, did anyone else notice this when transferring theirs over to the m3 cowl?

gap · 09-14-2015, 08:01 AM

Added some weather stripping I had to the inside of M3 strip to make up the shortage.
The way I determined where to cut was to coat the bottom of the washers and supply line with grease, lower the hood and see where it was making contact.
Cut and repeat until you get it right. The filter housings fit fairly secure without having to screw them in every time.
Had to add the plastic tip to the hood sensor, think the hood sensor contact block needs to be more like 1 1/8" thick.
Added two more of the clips to hold the cables, looks good enough for me and it is easy to unclip when you have to take the cowl out.

Would be happy to come down and help if you will just cover travel expenses

c0ris07 · 09-14-2015, 04:27 PM

Thanks for the dimension. How deep is each pocket?

Haha I could do that...or you could send me yours, and I could send you back my untouched ones. Ill even throw in the m3 cable duct

gap · 09-14-2015, 06:46 PM

depth is flush with the inner edge or about 3/4".

Everfly · 10-19-2015, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeteA

I'd like to see how this looks on an N55

Just installed this on my N55 and also I didn't have any issue with windshield washer nozzle since I am using Seibon CF hood

PeteA · 10-21-2015, 11:30 PM

Looks really good!

kukimonsta · 11-05-2015, 04:49 PM

any other ideas to solve the washer nozzle hitting the m3 filter box? most of us don't have the skill of gap, unless gap is willing to modify the m3 filter boxes and sell them?

gap · 11-05-2015, 06:17 PM

I saw a photo of how someone else did it a few weeks ago but can't find it now. They cut both side equally, probably about 6" from the inside out and had a flat piece covering it.
Would be simpiler than what I did.
No real skill involeved, just sticking with it until you get it like you want which for me took hours.
A low profile nozzle, if available, would be the only other solution with the OEM hood.

Found the photo! Engine Bay Photo thread first post.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ine+bay+thread

vtl · 11-06-2015, 02:30 AM

Attached are my efforts so far. I have cut out the notches and I have plastic enclosure boxes that I am cutting up to fill the gap. I just mocked it up on the car with electrical tape to see if it would fit

I decided against trying different washer nozzles. Cbf buying a bunch of different things and the pain of trail and effort. Plus my second hand covers are a bit scuffed and could use a paint anyway

gap · 11-06-2015, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtl

Attached are my efforts so far. I have cut out the notches and I have plastic enclosure boxes that I am cutting up to fill the gap. I just mocked it up on the car with electrical tape to see if it would fit

I decided against trying different washer nozzles. Cbf buying a bunch of different things and the pain of trail and effort. Plus my second hand covers are a bit scuffed and could use a paint anyway

Looking good. Once you finish you will realize why no one is offering these prefinished. With the amount of time required they would be very expensive.

kukimonsta · 11-06-2015, 11:50 AM

wow good job! gap is right about effort level. on the fence about this mod...

09-03-2015, 12:23 AM	#23
RedRanger Lieutenant 71 Rep 541 Posts Drives: 2008 128i Sedona Red Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: St. Louis, MO iTrader: (2)	Best bet is to find a 3d printer in the forum and have them 3d print new covers with an indent. "Yea, Science Bitch!" I am planning on doing this cowl change as well. Good to know about the clearance issues. Time for a 3d printer to do a group buy on new black covers. __________________ 2008 Sedona Red 128i Black Chrome powder coated VMR 710's 18's, Carbon fiber engine bay cover and intake, Carbon fiber interior trim, Demon eyebrows, euro intake, performance brace, black grills, Magnaflow exhaust, Stage 3IM, AA Tune
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09-03-2015, 01:28 AM	#24
PeteA Major 127 Rep 1,054 Posts Drives: E30, E82 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Melbourne iTrader: (3)	I'd like to see how this looks on an N55
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09-03-2015, 04:37 AM	#25
gap First Lieutenant 105 Rep 376 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: MS iTrader: (1)	My first thought was to heat the plastic with a heat gun and try to push it down but thought this may damage the plastic and warp the cover. 3D printing would be great but it is a complex shape that would require a bit of time to scan. Looking forward to seeing other solutions to this. __________________ ER CP, Forge DV, Wagner FMIC, PE, Maddad Mid, ER Sports OC, BMS OCC, RB Check Valve, AFE intake, Cobb AP3- Stage 1+ drive, BMW SS, PS Springs, Yellow Koni external, M3 Control Arms F & R, M3 Strut Brace, M3 Sub Bushing, Rouge Toe, Dinan Camber Plate and Rear Shock Mts., E93 M3 front sway bar, Mfactory Diff, Arc 8 PSS 235/40/18-265/35/18
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09-03-2015, 06:36 AM	#26
vtl Brigadier General 1493 Rep 3,148 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i MT Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Melbourne, Australia iTrader: (0)	Looks like it might be possible to just interchange the washers with something that is low profile. Alternatively stock unheated washers look like they could be modified with a dremel, although its a fair amount of work E30 spray nozzle: http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Spray/ES2594813/ Not sure how close the fitment would be. Also you'd lose the heated washers (not an issue for me in Australia) __________________ Build Thread
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09-04-2015, 05:00 PM	#27
gap First Lieutenant 105 Rep 376 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: MS iTrader: (1)	Put water in the cutout box until the bottom of the washer nozzle touched it when the hood was closed. There needs to be 3/4" extra clearance for the nozzles. The nozzles are 1.5" so there is only 3/4" clearance for the nozzle with the stock M3 filter covers. The plastic piece below the windshield has a metal frame member behind it so mounting E90 washers there will be difficult. The cutouts I made are about 3/4" too deep so I will fill then Bondo and sand the indents to look more like the factory ones on the front edge. One of my washer nozzle retainer clips was broken off, don't know when it happened but think opening and closing the hood without clearance would eventually break the plastic parts. Hood switch latch piece is about 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" and 1" thick. Trimmed to fit the hood frame. Found these hose clamps at Grainger and used Zip Ties to attach to the cowl. 95* outside and with a fully warmed engine the exhaust size clip was at 170* so within the temp range. My first filter cover attempt was pretty much a rush hack job and I will get back to it in a month or so. Attached Images __________________ ER CP, Forge DV, Wagner FMIC, PE, Maddad Mid, ER Sports OC, BMS OCC, RB Check Valve, AFE intake, Cobb AP3- Stage 1+ drive, BMW SS, PS Springs, Yellow Koni external, M3 Control Arms F & R, M3 Strut Brace, M3 Sub Bushing, Rouge Toe, Dinan Camber Plate and Rear Shock Mts., E93 M3 front sway bar, Mfactory Diff, Arc 8 PSS 235/40/18-265/35/18
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09-05-2015, 04:52 PM	#28
gap First Lieutenant 105 Rep 376 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: MS iTrader: (1)	It was bugging me not being finished now that I knew what to do. Glad to be done! Water temp seems to be running about 10 degrees cooler now. Attached Images __________________ ER CP, Forge DV, Wagner FMIC, PE, Maddad Mid, ER Sports OC, BMS OCC, RB Check Valve, AFE intake, Cobb AP3- Stage 1+ drive, BMW SS, PS Springs, Yellow Koni external, M3 Control Arms F & R, M3 Strut Brace, M3 Sub Bushing, Rouge Toe, Dinan Camber Plate and Rear Shock Mts., E93 M3 front sway bar, Mfactory Diff, Arc 8 PSS 235/40/18-265/35/18
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09-06-2015, 07:25 PM	#29
vtl Brigadier General 1493 Rep 3,148 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i MT Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Melbourne, Australia iTrader: (0)	Looking much better now! How was it done? Was it done with filler then painted over the top? How does this cowl improve cooling? My lower covers have arrived in the post and I can't work out how it would improve cooling without extra vents? __________________ Build Thread
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-07-2015, 10:41 AM	#32
gap First Lieutenant 105 Rep 376 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: MS iTrader: (1)	Agree that a low profile nozzle that would fit without modifying the filter covers would be the best route. Here in the southern USA there is no need for heated windshield fluid. Hope you find a nozzle that will work. Paint on the left is what I started out with. A bit too glossy but probably a good primer for the plastic. The one on the right is the finish coat. Attached Images __________________ ER CP, Forge DV, Wagner FMIC, PE, Maddad Mid, ER Sports OC, BMS OCC, RB Check Valve, AFE intake, Cobb AP3- Stage 1+ drive, BMW SS, PS Springs, Yellow Koni external, M3 Control Arms F & R, M3 Strut Brace, M3 Sub Bushing, Rouge Toe, Dinan Camber Plate and Rear Shock Mts., E93 M3 front sway bar, Mfactory Diff, Arc 8 PSS 235/40/18-265/35/18
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09-13-2015, 11:54 PM	#34
vtl Brigadier General 1493 Rep 3,148 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i MT Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Melbourne, Australia iTrader: (0)	I think I am going to end up doing cutouts instead of finding some nozzles that will fit the bonnet. The top covers I got were second hand and have a few light scratches on them so it would probably be worth painting them anyways. I did find that the long rubber seal is about 20mm too short on each side, did anyone else notice this when transferring theirs over to the m3 cowl? __________________ Build Thread Last edited by vtl; 09-14-2015 at 08:06 AM..
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09-14-2015, 08:01 AM	#35
gap First Lieutenant 105 Rep 376 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: MS iTrader: (1)	Added some weather stripping I had to the inside of M3 strip to make up the shortage. The way I determined where to cut was to coat the bottom of the washers and supply line with grease, lower the hood and see where it was making contact. Cut and repeat until you get it right. The filter housings fit fairly secure without having to screw them in every time. Had to add the plastic tip to the hood sensor, think the hood sensor contact block needs to be more like 1 1/8" thick. Added two more of the clips to hold the cables, looks good enough for me and it is easy to unclip when you have to take the cowl out. Would be happy to come down and help if you will just cover travel expenses Attached Images __________________ ER CP, Forge DV, Wagner FMIC, PE, Maddad Mid, ER Sports OC, BMS OCC, RB Check Valve, AFE intake, Cobb AP3- Stage 1+ drive, BMW SS, PS Springs, Yellow Koni external, M3 Control Arms F & R, M3 Strut Brace, M3 Sub Bushing, Rouge Toe, Dinan Camber Plate and Rear Shock Mts., E93 M3 front sway bar, Mfactory Diff, Arc 8 PSS 235/40/18-265/35/18
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09-14-2015, 04:27 PM	#36
c0ris07 Second Lieutenant 25 Rep 216 Posts Drives: BMW 135i Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: South Australia iTrader: (4)	Thanks for the dimension. How deep is each pocket? Haha I could do that...or you could send me yours, and I could send you back my untouched ones. Ill even throw in the m3 cable duct
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09-14-2015, 06:46 PM	#37
gap First Lieutenant 105 Rep 376 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: MS iTrader: (1)	depth is flush with the inner edge or about 3/4". __________________ ER CP, Forge DV, Wagner FMIC, PE, Maddad Mid, ER Sports OC, BMS OCC, RB Check Valve, AFE intake, Cobb AP3- Stage 1+ drive, BMW SS, PS Springs, Yellow Koni external, M3 Control Arms F & R, M3 Strut Brace, M3 Sub Bushing, Rouge Toe, Dinan Camber Plate and Rear Shock Mts., E93 M3 front sway bar, Mfactory Diff, Arc 8 PSS 235/40/18-265/35/18
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10-21-2015, 11:30 PM	#39
PeteA Major 127 Rep 1,054 Posts Drives: E30, E82 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Melbourne iTrader: (3)	Looks really good!
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11-05-2015, 04:49 PM	#40
kukimonsta New Member 0 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 135i Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Oakland, CA iTrader: (0)	any other ideas to solve the washer nozzle hitting the m3 filter box? most of us don't have the skill of gap, unless gap is willing to modify the m3 filter boxes and sell them?
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11-05-2015, 06:17 PM	#41
gap First Lieutenant 105 Rep 376 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: MS iTrader: (1)	I saw a photo of how someone else did it a few weeks ago but can't find it now. They cut both side equally, probably about 6" from the inside out and had a flat piece covering it. Would be simpiler than what I did. No real skill involeved, just sticking with it until you get it like you want which for me took hours. A low profile nozzle, if available, would be the only other solution with the OEM hood. Found the photo! Engine Bay Photo thread first post. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ine+bay+thread Attached Images __________________ ER CP, Forge DV, Wagner FMIC, PE, Maddad Mid, ER Sports OC, BMS OCC, RB Check Valve, AFE intake, Cobb AP3- Stage 1+ drive, BMW SS, PS Springs, Yellow Koni external, M3 Control Arms F & R, M3 Strut Brace, M3 Sub Bushing, Rouge Toe, Dinan Camber Plate and Rear Shock Mts., E93 M3 front sway bar, Mfactory Diff, Arc 8 PSS 235/40/18-265/35/18 Last edited by gap; 11-05-2015 at 07:58 PM.. Reason: new information
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11-06-2015, 02:30 AM	#42
vtl Brigadier General 1493 Rep 3,148 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i MT Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Melbourne, Australia iTrader: (0)	Attached are my efforts so far. I have cut out the notches and I have plastic enclosure boxes that I am cutting up to fill the gap. I just mocked it up on the car with electrical tape to see if it would fit I decided against trying different washer nozzles. Cbf buying a bunch of different things and the pain of trail and effort. Plus my second hand covers are a bit scuffed and could use a paint anyway Attached Images __________________ Build Thread
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11-06-2015, 11:50 AM	#44
kukimonsta New Member 0 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2010 BMW 135i Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Oakland, CA iTrader: (0)	wow good job! gap is right about effort level. on the fence about this mod...
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