BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      01-24-2020, 04:31 PM   #1
TboneS54
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Tyler's 2012 128i slicktop/manual/N52 Photo Journal

I'd like to document all the maintenance and mods to my newly acquired 128i here, with pictures and captions, as a journal and history for the car.

This is my 3rd BMW, 3rd manual inline 6 as well. I currently have a 2004 M3, but it's been retired from daily driving, so instead of a little civic I had as DD, I wanted a car that would be a good DD, but also satisfy me as someone who just loves to drive (and doesn't want much electronics or weight or unnecessary stuff).

The 128i won't be modded too aggressively. I'll be focusing on suspension/chassis, wanting the car to remain pretty OE looking, maybe OE+ with larger/wider wheels. I'll also be adding a custom stereo. I like to DIY as much as I can, so that'll be the theme, photos of jobs (as I rememeber to take photos lol) and some explanations/thoughts as I encounter things.

My search criteria was a non-sulev n52 128i slicktop 6 speed. I did pretty well to find this car in my general area, a 2012 tiag/blk with 83k for $9700 1 owner, clean carfax and some (not a ton) documentation /dealer work done.

I immediately began buying parts and maintenance items - I like to flush fluids and replace things depending on mileage and what documentation there is.

Here are some dealer photos to kick it off:





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// 2012 TitanSilber 128i Coupe 6MT Slicktop N52 non-sulev Heated manual seats
/// 2004 SilberGrau M3 Coupe 6MT Slicktop zero options ~3100lbs

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      01-24-2020, 04:35 PM   #2
TboneS54
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Here she is with the M3, slicktop twins:



First things I got to so far:



New OEM Corteco activaed charcoal filter (installed, original out) and I dressed the cowl and covers with one of my favorite products, Aerospace 303.



Drained as much as I could of the diff fluid, it actually was still quite golden and clear. Luckily as I could not suck all of it out (only .8L). Filled it up with LubroMoly GL5 75w90. I might shorten the change interval since I only flushed about 2/3rds.




The sidemarkers were in decent condition, but I like new stuff (if it's cheap ) so I got new TYC side markers and chrome "stealth" bulbs.

My favorite mod so far:



I really didn't like the stock, lightweight, oddly shaped shift knob. Shifts were crunchy, and it wasn't rewarding.

I run this tall, weighted M knob in the M3 and love it. It's like 6oz, slightly more than the popular ZHP knob, but taller for more leverage. It also has the traditional shape and is good looking.

It has completely changed the car! So much smoother and fun now, plus just feels right with good leather, shape and heft. I still plan to rebuild the linkage, but this alone makes such an improvement.

I also added an alcantara performance boot, but I dyed the white stitching black.

Also changed the oil. Napa had Valvoline full synth on a super cheap sale so got 7 quarts of 5w30. OE Mann filter. I do about 6-7k annually, so once a year will be good.



Then lastly, the first wash. Really loving this car. Just so fun to drive, even stock. Of course, I have sways, springs, shocks, bushings lined up next
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// 2012 TitanSilber 128i Coupe 6MT Slicktop N52 non-sulev Heated manual seats
/// 2004 SilberGrau M3 Coupe 6MT Slicktop zero options ~3100lbs


Last edited by TboneS54; 01-27-2020 at 10:17 PM..
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      01-24-2020, 05:53 PM   #3
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Congrats!! Nice car
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      02-12-2020, 06:31 PM   #4
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Thank you!

Some more work done this past weekend to the driveline. Shifter rebuild, fluid flush, tranny mounts, CDV delete.



Got the car up on stands, removed the v-brace, removed the exhaust (all one piece wtf??), removed the black plastic shields.

Like the diff fluid, this 84k mile tranny soup looked really good, still quite golden, but I still flushed it and put in new GL4 75w (MTF3)- went with lubro-moly from FCPeuro for a great price.



From headers back, it's one piece, with what looks like 2 little secondary cats, a big resonator and then the muffler, of course. Contemplating removal of the cats and even the resonator, but keep stock muffler, still not sure. Would prefer a little more exhaust noise, but not much.



Supporting the tranny with a jack, removing the tranny brace and then the mounts. Inspected the area. There is some oil residue, not sure where from, but not too bad. The giubo and center support bearing, visually, look to still be in good shape, no cracking or dry rot.



Here are my shifter rebuild parts. You can see the skinny stock mounts next to the new mounts I got, the beefy 320i e21 mounts from Febi/Bilstein for $5 each! They do require some DIY work though and M10 nuts instead of the stock M8 nuts (4).

Also replacing the selector rod joint and am replacing the shift carrier bushings with aftermarket delrin from Bimmsport on Ebay ($15 per pair). New nylon shifter cup as well.



Carrier out. I'm used to a single bushed carrier, not a double, twice the fun yay



I like to hit the inside of the carrier with fine sandpaper to prepare it for the delrin bushings as the fit is tight. I also like to chamfer the new bushings on the end that the "bolt" will hit as you're sliding it through to secure the carrier to the transmission. It's a frustrating thing, as anyone who's done this can tell you, so I like to make it a little easier.



New shifter cup onto the shifter ball. I apply a liberal amount of grease inside of the cup, then I pack a little more in from the top. This is my favorite lube for any non hi-heat application, Loctite Viperlube - synthetic, super sticky and hydrophobic, great stuff.

I also apply the lube to the metal parts of the linkage like the 2 bolts for the carrier and the selector rod where it goes into the selector joint and shifter.



Here's a shot of the E21 mounts next to stock. Same size (height/diameter) as you can see. You can also see that the E21 mounts' studs are larger, so you'll need larger nuts (m10) and you'll need to slightly enlarge the tranny brace holes and possibly the transmission "tabs" that accept the top studs.



Here's the brace with the right hole opened up just a bit with a 25/64ths drill/bit. Takes only a couple of seconds.



If you want to rock these mounts, you'll also have to make an indent in them to accept the little nipples on the brace or file down those nipples instead, which I chose to do.



Now it'll lay down flat.



Almost forgot it, but remembered I wanted to pop the regulator/restrictor out of the clutch line adapter. I just used a straight dental pick and hit it with a hammer and it popped out.

I had already replaced the stock knob with a tall, weighted knob from the E46 era which vastly improved things, but now with CDV delete, fresh fluid, new mounts and new bushings, it's amazing!
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// 2012 TitanSilber 128i Coupe 6MT Slicktop N52 non-sulev Heated manual seats
/// 2004 SilberGrau M3 Coupe 6MT Slicktop zero options ~3100lbs


Last edited by TboneS54; 02-12-2020 at 06:36 PM..
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      02-12-2020, 07:12 PM   #5
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If you can find a 135i BMWPE used, it’s a perfect option for a little more exhaust sound without drone. I set mine up so the tip positions have almost 2” of adjustment in/out to get it to fit just right.
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      02-12-2020, 07:53 PM   #6
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Thanks, I'll keep that in mind, if they're cheap enough. So was your stock muffler also welded to the midpipe like this? Are people taking the car to a muffler shop to weld a new one on or cut the pipes and add a clamp system?

Strange. I'm wondering if my exhaust is "special."
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/// 2004 SilberGrau M3 Coupe 6MT Slicktop zero options ~3100lbs

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      02-13-2020, 12:32 AM   #7
Ric in RVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TboneS54 View Post
I had already replaced the stock knob with a tall, weighted knob from the E46 era which vastly improved things, but now with CDV delete, fresh fluid, new mounts and new bushings, it's amazing!
Good stuff. Now pull the return spring under the dash to finish the clutch. We don't need to helper spring to return the clutch pedal!!!!!
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      02-13-2020, 01:26 PM   #8
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Ya I saw someone else mention deleting the clutch return spring. So what's the advantage there?

I'm also going to install some bronze or delrin clutch pedal bushings - great little mod on my E46.
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/// 2004 SilberGrau M3 Coupe 6MT Slicktop zero options ~3100lbs

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      02-14-2020, 09:56 AM   #9
Ric in RVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TboneS54 View Post
Ya I saw someone else mention deleting the clutch return spring. So what's the advantage there?

I'm also going to install some bronze or delrin clutch pedal bushings - great little mod on my E46.

It goes over center at some point and helps you put it all the way to floor....and then about half way up it helps you pull it up.

The weight of the pedal will not cause any wear on the the throwout.

Just feels more natural and predictable. completely reversible and takes 5 minutes. You will see spring in there once you take kick panel off . Grab a pair of needle nose and note where it went in case you want to rein stall and pop it off.
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      02-14-2020, 03:32 PM   #10
TboneS54
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Ok, I'll give it a shot thanks Ric.
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/// 2004 SilberGrau M3 Coupe 6MT Slicktop zero options ~3100lbs

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