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      02-05-2020, 03:16 PM   #1
Thunderguts
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How difficult is rear subframe removal?

I'm looking for a no BS assessment, I hope by someone who has removed one. I want to replace my rear bushings with M3 bushings, not inserts, so the entire rear subframe needs to come out. On the plus side, my car has only been in OK and TX so rust is not an issue.

I basically know what needs to happen, but there are always snags with a job like this. We just replaced my son-in-law's clutch in a Honda Civic on jack stands and that required removing a front subframe and dropping the entire transmission. That was a PITA, but it didn't kill us. a BMW rear subframe can't be nearly that bad, or can it?
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      02-05-2020, 04:13 PM   #2
BronkaidBrah
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Check out Jake Spence on YouTube . His last video was a complete suspension overhaul including the rear subframe drop. If anything it gave me a bit more confidence for when I finally get around to installing my solid aluminum bushings I’ve had sitting around for a few months.
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      02-06-2020, 12:28 PM   #3
Dmak
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I just did my rsfb this winter. Look at a few posts down here.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1670897

All depend if you have all the tools you need. I would say its nothing difficult for me other than the seized brake pipe flare nuts(which you wont have problem with), and getting the right tool to fit and remove the old bushings.
I did not need to push bushings back in since i installed whiteline 2 piece bushings. I also did not completely remove the subframe at any point, that is because i dont want to deal with removing/installing/compressing the rear springs, so i always have 2 subframe bolts threaded a few turns in.
Did the rear sets first(which was super easy) then the front sets. Brake lines between body and subframe MUST be disconnect, its not possible to get enough space to do front bushings without(i tried)
I also did not disconnect the drive shaft to rear diff, it was tight, but if you remove rear springs and have the rear part of subframe tilt down, you will get more space.
I m not sure how difficult to do it on jack stands. Second sets of hands help a lot. I did mine all by myself tho.

Hopes that help
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      02-06-2020, 04:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmak View Post
I just did my rsfb this winter. Look at a few posts down here.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1670897

All depend if you have all the tools you need. I would say its nothing difficult for me other than the seized brake pipe flare nuts(which you wont have problem with), and getting the right tool to fit and remove the old bushings.
I did not need to push bushings back in since i installed whiteline 2 piece bushings. I also did not completely remove the subframe at any point, that is because i dont want to deal with removing/installing/compressing the rear springs, so i always have 2 subframe bolts threaded a few turns in.
Did the rear sets first(which was super easy) then the front sets. Brake lines between body and subframe MUST be disconnect, its not possible to get enough space to do front bushings without(i tried)
I also did not disconnect the drive shaft to rear diff, it was tight, but if you remove rear springs and have the rear part of subframe tilt down, you will get more space.
I m not sure how difficult to do it on jack stands. Second sets of hands help a lot. I did mine all by myself tho.

Hopes that help
I did my whiteline two piece install by myself on jack stands, without removing the brake lines. I think I might have removed the shock and maybe a control arm to allow everything to loosen up a bit more, but I don't remember now for sure. Wasn't too bad honestly.

Can't provide first hand experience on full removal for the M3 RSFB install though.
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      02-08-2020, 01:16 AM   #5
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I also did the 2 piece Whiteline bushing without without disconnecting the brake lines. I did the heat, socket and 2 jack method. I used a heat gun and it took some doing. If I had to do it again I'd use a propane torch. Heat is your friend getting the old bushings out.
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      02-08-2020, 01:59 AM   #6
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How much are you lowering the subf still with the brake lines attached to get a good sized socket in there?

Besides exhaust, what are you disconnecting before lowering, just those little front braces to the sides?

Thanks
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      02-08-2020, 04:42 PM   #7
Dmak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
I did my whiteline two piece install by myself on jack stands, without removing the brake lines. I think I might have removed the shock and maybe a control arm to allow everything to loosen up a bit more, but I don't remember now for sure. Wasn't too bad honestly.

Can't provide first hand experience on full removal for the M3 RSFB install though.
I pretty much left everything attached to subframe. Maybe thats the different. The brake hoses got really tight and i didnt want to risk damaging them.
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      02-16-2020, 12:00 AM   #8
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I didn't need to drop the subframe completely using the bushing tool from HPA. Drop out the bolt for the corner you're replacing, lower the rest of the bolts until there's enough room to get it out, and repeat...
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      02-18-2020, 11:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I didn't need to drop the subframe completely using the bushing tool from HPA. Drop out the bolt for the corner you're replacing, lower the rest of the bolts until there's enough room to get it out, and repeat...
Was this your experience removing and installing new M3 RSFB? Hard to tell if you're talking about both, or just removal of the stock ones.
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      02-18-2020, 11:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I didn't need to drop the subframe completely using the bushing tool from HPA. Drop out the bolt for the corner you're replacing, lower the rest of the bolts until there's enough room to get it out, and repeat...
Was this your experience removing and installing new M3 RSFB? Hard to tell if you're talking about both, or just removal of the stock ones.
I didn't need to drop it to get the stock ones out, no. I did what I described with the help of HPA's tool that you can rent. I upgraded to Condor Speed Shop UHMW subframe mounts, and those were two-piece bushings which are really easy to install.
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      02-18-2020, 12:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I didn't need to drop it to get the stock ones out, no. I did what I described with the help of HPA's tool that you can rent. I upgraded to Condor Speed Shop UHMW subframe mounts, and those were two-piece bushings which are really easy to install.
Got it, pretty similar to how I did mine, except I didn't use HPA's tool. Just wanted to clarify what you're able to do without dropping the subframe for OP's sake. Not sure if OP is still set on the M3 RSFB replacements or if they've been swayed to a two piece variant or maybe even the solid aluminum route from Turner, I hear solid subframe bushings don't do too much in terms of NVH, so there's that route too.
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      02-18-2020, 12:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Got it, pretty similar to how I did mine, except I didn't use HPA's tool. Just wanted to clarify what you're able to do without dropping the subframe for OP's sake. Not sure if OP is still set on the M3 RSFB replacements or if they've been swayed to a two piece variant or maybe even the solid aluminum route from Turner, I hear solid subframe bushings don't do too much in terms of NVH, so there's that route too.
The CSS ones I have are basically solid (they're Delrin/Teflon). You can definitely feel more from the rear end, but that's a completely positive thing coming from the jello stock bushings.

Solid aluminum does need to actually be pressed in, which requires removing the subframe, which doesn't look like fun, and isn't really realistic unless you have a lift and a large transmission jack to hold the subframe securely.
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