Stepping up the N54 135i race car

[ONDEMAND]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

You'd be surprised. Remember, we're racing (up to 45 min. continuous sprint racing), and we could be at places like Willow Springs in July (110+ deg. outside). We already run the heater in the car full blast, but we are looking to delete the heater box.

I have the 1M aux. radiator parts on order.

Sorry for the jack above!

I think the radiator, additional oil coolers, larger fan ect would be critical, particularly if you remove the heater box. Running the heat wide open really does drop the oil temp a good bit.

I do this sometimes if I push the car hard on the way home from work, knowing that Im gonna park the car and trying to keep the hot oil from sitting in the turbo.

The last mile or so I run the heat wide open and keep rpm below 2,500. That and air movement of going 55mph will drop a good 10 degrees off the oil temp within a couple of miles.

[shmorgan77]

Originally Posted by ONDEMAND

NICE!

______________ Thread Jack____________

Would love to check out the RB's!

You shoudl come the the Taco Mac in Johns Creek on Wed after work - See the Southeastern Regional Section | Caffine and Octane thread.


________________end of thread jack_______________

Damn I actually live in johns creek, my cars in the shop but I'm driving my dads 635csi haha ayyyyyyyy



_____Real end of thread jacking

[ONDEMAND]

Originally Posted by shmorgan77

Damn I actually live in johns creek, my cars in the shop but I'm driving my dads 635csi haha ayyyyyyyy



_____Real end of thread jacking

BRING THE 635!


_____Seriously this is the real end of the thread jack I'm responsible for!___

Now back to a bad ass 135 race car!

In this next class are you unlimited on what you can do as far as weight reduction? Glass Removal?

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by ONDEMAND

In this next class are you unlimited on what you can do as far as weight reduction? Glass Removal?

In G-Prepared, we have to be 3032 lbs. with driver. We are allowed to do lexan windshield, I believe, but not the rest.

If we can delete the heater box and the 4 cats, we'll see where that gets us weight-wise.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

In G-Prepared, we have to be 3032 lbs. with driver. We are allowed to do lexan windshield, I believe, but not the rest.

If we can delete the heater box and the 4 cats, we'll see where that gets us weight-wise.

3000 is very easy for these to achieve

full carbon treatment will get them pretty close to 2500#.

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by flinchy

3000 is very easy for these to achieve
full carbon treatment will get them pretty close to 2500#.

*caveat - in prepared class, we can't do carbon fiber body parts (unless it came with the car like an e92 roof).

[dcaron9999]

Quick question guys, and dont mean to threadjack - is there any advantage to a 7 inch FMIC over a 5 inch, for someones who tracks his car, and develops under 400HP? Id like a simple FMIC install, which I why Im leaning towards one of the the 5 inch FMIC's... Thanks.

[Experimental]

Originally Posted by ONDEMAND

If you ever run Road Atlanta, Atlanta Motorsports park, or Barber please let me know as I'd love to come watch, or be a pit monkey!!!!

On that note, if you do run any of these, I'd be interested in doing some on-board cameras for your races. It would be great to see what is going on inside that lovely 1er!

[froop]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

You'd be surprised. Remember, we're racing (up to 45 min. continuous sprint racing), and we could be at places like Willow Springs in July (110+ deg. outside). We already run the heater in the car full blast, but we are looking to delete the heater box.

I have the 1M aux. radiator parts on order.

Maybe you can consider trying some low E85 mixes (20%) and/or meth/water injection for their cooling properties. Personally I use them more for power rather than anything else but I've never had an issue with overheating when on track days when using meth and I don't have any upgraded cooling other than an FMIC. Barely breaks 120+ Celsius actually on a 15-20 minute session.

Of course you may have some fueling issues running on E85 but low mixtures should be ok. If you want to you can tune the meth/water injection for power as well or just leave it for the cooling using a single nozzle.

I have dual 1mm nozzles but I almost run through a complete 5L tank in 15 minutes. On a smaller single nozzle with a slightly larger tank it may last you the whole 45 minute session.

Of course going with fully upgraded oil and water cooling systems are probably the better, albeit more expensive solution for a proper race car.

Or you could do it all.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

*caveat - in prepared class, we can't do carbon fiber body parts (unless it came with the car like an e92 roof).

damn that sucks

still, lighter battery, no rear seats, trim etc...

i'm surprised you can have a lexan windshield - in most classes over here, the windshield replacement comes in the top classes only haha

then again, most classes here require you to keep the heater thing as well :/

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

You'd be surprised. Remember, we're racing (up to 45 min. continuous sprint racing), and we could be at places like Willow Springs in July (110+ deg. outside). We already run the heater in the car full blast, but we are looking to delete the heater box.

I have the 1M aux. radiator parts on order.

PPK fan, HPA/PWR radiator.. dual oil coolers

heat shouldn't be even close to an issue with that.

ED: i found a thread where you already have an upgraded rad+fan.. and you still have issues?

[scottn2retro]

Heat-wise, we've been okay with the upgraded radiator, A/C condenser out and running the heater full blast, but to be able to take out the heater box, I think we need to go for the aux. water radiator. A lot of things like meth. inj. are not class legal.

Right now, even with a Borla cat-back, I think there is weight to be saved throughout the exhaust system. The heater box is a nice big balast sitting there once we get more water cooling.

Thinking of trying e92 M3 carbon fiber bumpers (not bumper covers, but OEM replacements for steel bumper on the e90 M3). Ralph was able to retrofit those onto his e90 M3.

[Bullitt]

If you haven't already, remove the cowl/HVAC filter system and use the BMS cowl filters. Engine bay runs cooler and sheds 10lbs.

The BMS sport oil cooler valve can help - it bypasses the oil temperature thermostat full time for lower oil temperatures.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

Heat-wise, we've been okay with the upgraded radiator, A/C condenser out and running the heater full blast, but to be able to take out the heater box, I think we need to go for the aux. water radiator. A lot of things like meth. inj. are not class legal.

Right now, even with a Borla cat-back, I think there is weight to be saved throughout the exhaust system. The heater box is a nice big balast sitting there once we get more water cooling.

Thinking of trying e92 M3 carbon fiber bumpers (not bumper covers, but OEM replacements for steel bumper on the e90 M3). Ralph was able to retrofit those onto his e90 M3.

let us know - that would be awesome to add a CF bumper support bar.



**********
EDIT


I took the two images of the support bars from Real OEM and they do not line up. They both do have the same mounting hole configuration but the M3 mounts are closer together than the e82 one. They will not bolt up.


M3 BAR




E82 BAR



Super imposed -

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by Bullitt

If you haven't already, remove the cowl/HVAC filter system and use the BMS cowl filters. Engine bay runs cooler and sheds 10lbs.

The BMS sport oil cooler valve can help - it bypasses the oil temperature thermostat full time for lower oil temperatures.

Thanks - started doing the first and I'll look into the 2nd.

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes

let us know - that would be awesome to add a CF bumper support bar.

**********
EDIT

I took the two images of the support bars from Real OEM and they do not line up. They both do have the same mounting hole configuration but the M3 mounts are closer together than the e82 one. They will not bolt up.

I'm not sure how much that stuff is correctly scaled in those parts applications (sometimes even the pictures aren't quite correct). But that would be the biggest factor - how far apart are the front frame rails on the two cars (and how the tow hook lines up).

When Ralph has his bumper off the e90 M3, I'll have him take a measurement and I'll take the same measurement on the 135i.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

I'm not sure how much that stuff is correctly scaled in those parts applications (sometimes even the pictures aren't quite correct). But that would be the biggest factor - how far apart are the front frame rails on the two cars (and how the tow hook lines up).

When Ralph has his bumper off the e90 M3, I'll have him take a measurement and I'll take the same measurement on the 135i.

I overlayed the two images using the mounting holes which are the same between the two. I was at the shop yesterday and they confirmed they are not interchangeable as the M3 bar, as my come suggested, has the support bars closer together than the 135i one. And as you mentioned, the tow hook certainly wouldnt line up.

[Tommeh]

Does that car have a custom widebody 1m front with fender flares o.o

[scottn2retro]

Originally Posted by Tommeh

Does that car have a custom widebody 1m front with fender flares o.o

We did the 1M front end conversion using BMW parts (for the car to be prepared class legal).

[M3WC]

Originally Posted by scottn2retro

Heat-wise, we've been okay with the upgraded radiator, A/C condenser out and running the heater full blast, but to be able to take out the heater box, I think we need to go for the aux. water radiator. A lot of things like meth. inj. are not class legal.

Right now, even with a Borla cat-back, I think there is weight to be saved throughout the exhaust system. The heater box is a nice big balast sitting there once we get more water cooling.

Thinking of trying e92 M3 carbon fiber bumpers (not bumper covers, but OEM replacements for steel bumper on the e90 M3). Ralph was able to retrofit those onto his e90 M3.

For oil cooling check into the Evolution Racewerkes competition oil cooler upgrade.

http://evolutionracewerks.com/node/133


Mishimoto has a radiator in development.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=961417

[scottn2retro]

Hi All -

Happy to say I've been in contact with Fred at Evolution Racewerks in Baldwin Park, Ca. and they are going to be working with us in building up the car over the coming months.

[Dr3K0]

Its seems that almost everybody is more incline into brands than actual parts designs.

I suggest to build your car from an engineering stand point.

Example.
Not all charge pipes are equal. ER charge pipe is 2.5" intake and then goes to 3". Since the throttle body is 3" I would go 3" all the way back as possible. AA Charge pipe is 3" all the way. That is your best candidate, IMO.

All Intercoolers are not the same. Its not just how big, its how can reduce the temperature and how much pressure it can reduce. Find a good bar and plate intercooler with 3 " in/out to match a 3" charge pipe.

Downpipes are not the same ether. The mid-pipes are 2.25" so all the downpipes have to tapper down. If you can custom build the mid-back, you can modify a regular set of downpipes to be dual 3" all the way back. Also the bends are critical. Mandrel bend is the way to go. But also try not to do 90* or sharp bends, cuz it will decrease the gas velocity. If you ask me its a over kill but that is a race car.

In case you wonder, my setup consists on AA Charge pipe, AMS intercooler, 3" intercooler piping , Titek DownPipes.

Definitively increase the oil cooling capacity.
Aluminum sub frame bushings.
M3 suspension bits.
Intake Scoops
I heard good things about Wedge Flash + JB4

brusk covered pretty good most of the areas.

GL

[iuhutch]

Originally Posted by Dr3K0

Its seems that almost everybody is more incline into brands than actual parts designs.

I suggest to build your car from an engineering stand point.

Example.
Not all charge pipes are equal. ER charge pipe is 2.5" intake and then goes to 3". Since the throttle body is 3" I would go 3" all the way back as possible. AA Charge pipe is 3" all the way. That is your best candidate, IMO.

All Intercoolers are not the same. Its not just how big, its how can reduce the temperature and how much pressure it can reduce. Find a good bar and plate intercooler with 3 " in/out to match a 3" charge pipe.

Downpipes are not the same ether. The mid-pipes are 2.25" so all the downpipes have to tapper down. If you can custom build the mid-back, you can modify a regular set of downpipes to be dual 3" all the way back. Also the bends are critical. Mandrel bend is the way to go. But also try not to do 90* or sharp bends, cuz it will decrease the gas velocity. If you ask me its a over kill but that is a race car.

In case you wonder, my setup consists on AA Charge pipe, AMS intercooler, 3" intercooler piping , Titek DownPipes.

Definitively increase the oil cooling capacity.
Aluminum sub frame bushings.
M3 suspension bits.
Intake Scoops
I heard good things about Wedge Flash + JB4

brusk covered pretty good most of the areas.

GL

Do you recommend intake scoops? I didnt think they did much. Afe I assume?

Also, what size intercooler?

I agree about the backend flash coupled with JB4. Protune would be nice too but i honestly think you'll get more power and a better power response with the eariler.

Definitely agree with the removal of the engine cowl and cabin filters. weight savings and keeps a better draft in the bay.

Mind me asking OP, what wheel/rim setup are you using and which LSD?