MHD Stage 1 93/98RON comparison

Trolln · 02-03-2016, 07:18 PM

Hey guys,

New to the forum and new to the 1 series! Absolutely love the car

I have installed VSRF catless dp's and BMS OCC, last night i put on the MHD Stage one 98 RON (Australia)
Flash was super easy, the app is great. How far we have come to flash cars with our phones is incredible!

Initial impressions weren't what I was expecting.. Hard clunking into reverse (has since gone away now) and no noticeable power difference?
Talking to a n54 group here it was suggested I flash again as another member had the same issue. Went ahead and flashed again and this time it seemed to pull a bit harder but again I haven't noticed a great difference.

Is this expected? I have read so many people saying its a night and day difference. Is there anyway I can check? Boost level perhaps?

Thanks for any help!

EDIT: So I used an OBD2 scanner and logged a couple WOT runs and noticed the maximum throttle recorded is only 87.5%? just a bad reading or is that something I should look at?

Trolln · 02-03-2016, 10:20 PM

MHD Tuning

TheFox · 02-03-2016, 10:46 PM

You should feel a difference I felt a huge difference between stock and the stage 1 91oct map.

Read your DME codes and make sure that you are not throwing any codes and that the flashed file is the one that you flashed earlier (see image below for the last flashed file). I had a few flashes that didn't actually go through and the car felt stock in these cases I had to do a full reflah.

For perspective my car ran 14 PSI tapered to 12 PSI on stage one and 9 PSI tapered to 7 PSI stock in 3rd gear (I live at 6000FT).

EDIT: You should post a log just in case there is something else going on with the car. It is good to keep in mind the flash has to re-learn adaptations for your car so it may take some miles before you get the full effect.

Trolln · 02-03-2016, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheFox

You should feel a difference I felt a huge difference between stock and the stage 1 91oct map.

Read your DME codes and make sure that you are not throwing any codes and that the flashed file is the one that you flashed earlier (see image below for the last flashed file). I had a few flashes that didn't actually go through and the car felt stock in these cases I had to do a full reflah.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check that tonight. I did check code and doesn't seem to be throwing any, maybe I'll try reflashing again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheFox

EDIT: You should post a log just in case there is something else going on with the car. It is good to keep in mind the flash has to re-learn adaptations for your car so it may take some miles before you get the full effect.

I got logs from a universal OBD reading - posted in OP

TheFox · 02-03-2016, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trolln

EDIT: So I used an OBD2 scanner and logged a couple WOT runs and noticed the maximum throttle recorded is only 87.5%? just a bad reading or is that something I should look at?

My throttle position sat around 81% on the map so that looks to be normal. but we really would need a log over time instead of just top values to get an idea of where you sit. If you have the gauge addon for MHD you can get nice logs and it will also let you monitor boost which should help you determine if you are running more boost over stock.

I looked up the DME torque values recorded between some of my logs, according to the DME the flash makes about 60 ft/lbs more torque than stock (on my car) so you should defiantly feel some difference.

Trolln · 02-04-2016, 12:00 AM

Quote:

My throttle position sat around 81% on the map so that looks to be normal. but we really would need a log over time instead of just top values to get an idea of where you sit. If you have the gauge addon for MHD you can get nice logs and it will also let you monitor boost which should help you determine if you are running more boost over stock.

I looked up the DME torque values recorded between some of my logs, according to the DME the flash makes about 60 ft/lbs more torque than stock (on my car) so you should defiantly feel some difference.

Interesting, well I'm not sure how handy it will be but attached my log, its only a couple minute drive to and from carpark, 2 WOT's then stopped.

TheFox · 02-04-2016, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trolln

Interesting, well I'm not sure how handy it will be but attached my log, its only a couple minute drive to and from carpark, 2 WOT's then stopped.

You can upload logs to datazap.me and post the link to the log back here after uploading.

EDIT: I opened the file and looked at the log I cant really determine what units some of the values have, it would be best to use the logging built into the monitoring portion of MHD to get the log, you will also need to do a 3rd gear pull from 2,000RPM up to near readline in order to get a better idea of what the engine is doing.

MHD Tuning · 02-04-2016, 04:28 AM

To avoid the trans R clunk you can after the flash remove the key and leave the car at rest 5 min.

AFAIK the generic OBD loggers are clamped to 2 psi because they don't sample the right sensor, we have 2.

If you don't feel the power difference then you may suffer from a boost leak. Looking at proper logs will help analyze your issue.

Trolln · 02-04-2016, 06:04 PM

Thanks for the replies guys, I will look into it and let you know how i go

Trolln · 03-07-2016, 09:58 PM

So late update:

Week or so after this driving home and put the foot down and really felt a difference! next corner i do the same thing and no power at all, instantly knew what had happened...

So i have a new charge pipe on the way. Thought I would give the intake valves a bit of a clean while i waited for this to arrive. Noone around my area does the walnut blast (well for a reasonable price anyway) so decided to try the manual method with the help of some nylon bristle dremel tips.

Polishing wheel and then a nylon cup brush (no pic). I spent a couple minutes soaking each port with some brake/parts cleaner and acetone (i wasn't sure what would work better so I just used both) All up soaking, dremeling and a few rinses with parts cleaner and sucking it out was maybe 10 minutes per port. Some basic progress pics below..

Have only done 3/6 so far as I was testing how these nylon brushes went, they seem to have done great. It doesn't seem to have got the tops of the valves as much as i would have liked

But I'm sure this is a huge improvement.

02-03-2016, 07:18 PM	#1
Trolln New Member 8 Rep 22 Posts Drives: E82 135i 2010 BSM Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gold coast, Queensland iTrader: (0)	MHD Stage 1 93/98RON comparison Hey guys, New to the forum and new to the 1 series! Absolutely love the car I have installed VSRF catless dp's and BMS OCC, last night i put on the MHD Stage one 98 RON (Australia) Flash was super easy, the app is great. How far we have come to flash cars with our phones is incredible! Initial impressions weren't what I was expecting.. Hard clunking into reverse (has since gone away now) and no noticeable power difference? Talking to a n54 group here it was suggested I flash again as another member had the same issue. Went ahead and flashed again and this time it seemed to pull a bit harder but again I haven't noticed a great difference. Is this expected? I have read so many people saying its a night and day difference. Is there anyway I can check? Boost level perhaps? Thanks for any help! EDIT: So I used an OBD2 scanner and logged a couple WOT runs and noticed the maximum throttle recorded is only 87.5%? just a bad reading or is that something I should look at? Last edited by Trolln; 02-03-2016 at 11:14 PM..
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02-03-2016, 10:20 PM	#2
Trolln New Member 8 Rep 22 Posts Drives: E82 135i 2010 BSM Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gold coast, Queensland iTrader: (0)	MHD Tuning
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02-03-2016, 10:46 PM	#3
TheFox Private 25 Rep 79 Posts Drives: M3NTAL 135I Auto, On3 ST Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Albuquerque, NM iTrader: (0)	You should feel a difference I felt a huge difference between stock and the stage 1 91oct map. Read your DME codes and make sure that you are not throwing any codes and that the flashed file is the one that you flashed earlier (see image below for the last flashed file). I had a few flashes that didn't actually go through and the car felt stock in these cases I had to do a full reflah. For perspective my car ran 14 PSI tapered to 12 PSI on stage one and 9 PSI tapered to 7 PSI stock in 3rd gear (I live at 6000FT). EDIT: You should post a log just in case there is something else going on with the car. It is good to keep in mind the flash has to re-learn adaptations for your car so it may take some miles before you get the full effect. Last edited by TheFox; 02-03-2016 at 10:58 PM..
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02-04-2016, 04:28 AM	#8
MHD Tuning Banned 1978 Rep 345 Posts Drives: M3F80#M5F90#340iF31#SupraA90 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Germany iTrader: (0)	To avoid the trans R clunk you can after the flash remove the key and leave the car at rest 5 min. AFAIK the generic OBD loggers are clamped to 2 psi because they don't sample the right sensor, we have 2. If you don't feel the power difference then you may suffer from a boost leak. Looking at proper logs will help analyze your issue.
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02-04-2016, 06:04 PM	#9
Trolln New Member 8 Rep 22 Posts Drives: E82 135i 2010 BSM Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gold coast, Queensland iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the replies guys, I will look into it and let you know how i go
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03-07-2016, 09:58 PM	#10
Trolln New Member 8 Rep 22 Posts Drives: E82 135i 2010 BSM Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gold coast, Queensland iTrader: (0)	So late update: Week or so after this driving home and put the foot down and really felt a difference! next corner i do the same thing and no power at all, instantly knew what had happened... So i have a new charge pipe on the way. Thought I would give the intake valves a bit of a clean while i waited for this to arrive. Noone around my area does the walnut blast (well for a reasonable price anyway) so decided to try the manual method with the help of some nylon bristle dremel tips. Polishing wheel and then a nylon cup brush (no pic). I spent a couple minutes soaking each port with some brake/parts cleaner and acetone (i wasn't sure what would work better so I just used both) All up soaking, dremeling and a few rinses with parts cleaner and sucking it out was maybe 10 minutes per port. Some basic progress pics below.. Have only done 3/6 so far as I was testing how these nylon brushes went, they seem to have done great. It doesn't seem to have got the tops of the valves as much as i would have liked But I'm sure this is a huge improvement.
	Appreciate 0 Quote