Thinking about a 128i

[K9Leader]

I'm crossing over from the E90 forum as I am thinking about getting a 128i as a retirement/project car.

I have a 2010 E91 as my daily driver, 142K miles. Some mods - most significant is the 3IM. I also have a '99 C5 Corvette convertible. I will be retiring in a few months and my better half has agreed to some sort of retirement/project car. I would like something that I can do some Autocross, track nights or even track days - the C5 is a convertible and I do not want to put in a cage and the E91 is an x-Drive, a great daily driver and with the 3IM has good pep but not really ideal for the track. Also want something that will be fun on twisty mountain roads - Tail of the Dragon type drives.

I'm thinking about a 128i that I mod with a 3IM. I'm already pretty comfortable working on the N52 (and leery about the problem points of the N54 so thinking to stay away from the 135i). The 128 with the 3IM at 255-260 HP and very good torque strikes me as a modern day 2002 or early M3 - great handling and enough power to be zippy and fun. I've got the Vette for when I want a lot of horses.

Anyway, I've thought about trying to get into a Z3 coupe or Z3 M Coupe (love the Clownshoe!) but trying to keep the initial buy-in cost low (to allow for mods/upgrades). Also thought about Z4 coupes but, again, buy-in price. So, a 128 seems like a good option.

So, just looking for comments and thoughts from those of you in the know. TIA!

K9Leader
2010 BMW 328i E91
1999 Corvette
2003 Subaru Baja
2013 Toyota Venza (wife's DD)

[fotontom]

I went from an '06 Z4M roadster to my '12 E88. Yes, a big drop in power or better said the mystique of the S54 engine. The positive tradeoffs were more interior and trunk space, easier entrance / exit (I might be in the same age bracket, lol) and arguably better dependability. Although 'tinkering' parts might be a little more hard to come by, it is fun poking through the BMW parts bin to see what was available in Europe that we could not get here. Yes, compatibility with many E90 parts is a big plus. The N51-52 is a very strong engine and does not tempt me to mess with modifying it. Just a joy to drive, as-is.

Full disclosure- I really overdosed on the Z4M. Wayyyy beyond where it ever should have been modified. I came to learn about the E46 CSL Euro-spec car and replicated the concept to the Z4M - Euro headers, carbon fiber airbox, tune, more than I can recall right now. It dyno'd at 400+ HP. I followed that by a purchase of a Mustang GT500. Yes, 700 HP. Got to the point I did not want to risk driving it too much. After a while, I realized how stupid that was and found the E88. I'm far happier, every day!

So, good luck with your search for a compatible vehicle. If you find something that is 80-90% of what you want, chances are you can provide the remainder with your own upgrades.

[BMWCCA1]

The 128i M-sport stick is my modern 2002tii (had three, have two) but even in stock form it's over 100 more horsepower! Same seat-of-the-pants experience—only better! Far better quality materials than a Z4 where everything inside is plastic and will disintegrate while you watch. My wife's been driving an E90 xDrive Sport since totaling her E82 Sport. She's fine with it but it's nowhere near as much fun as the 128i was. Good luck finding the right car. You are looking for a stick I assume?

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by BMWCCA1

The 128i M-sport stick is my modern 2002tii (had three, have two) but even in stock form it's over 100 more horsepower! Same seat-of-the-pants experience—only better! Far better quality materials than a Z4 where everything inside is plastic and will disintegrate while you watch. My wife's been driving an E90 xDrive Sport since totaling her E82 Sport. She's fine with it but it's nowhere near as much fun as the 128i was. Good luck finding the right car. You are looking for a stick I assume?

Yes (probably), on a manual. They appear to be far fewer so will need to do some searching. I have not owned a manual for more than 25 years and I'm a bit apprehensive about my 61-year-old knees (but they have been feeling a lot better lately since I started with CBD oil), especially on long road trips, but I do have other fun cars for long trips if necessary.

And, of course, it has to be red. Well, okay, if everything else is perfect, I would take blue. I love red cars and am tired of the ubiquitousness of black/white/gray/silver (although, yes, my E91 is Space Gray Metallic, but my Corvette, the Baja, and even the wife's Toyota are red). Not that I dislike black/white/gray/silver, but . . . well, ubiquitous, very, very ubiquitous.

[NorthernDancer]

There are a few out there so be very patient. Most of the good ones are not for sale [like mine]. I'm 75, track it couple of times a year and really, really enjoy it. Tires & suspension [esp RSFB's] should be first mods. I'm keeping mine forever unless I import a really nice E87 [I'm looking every day].

[BMWCCA1]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

Yes (probably), on a manual. They appear to be far fewer so will need to do some searching. I have not owned a manual for more than 25 years and I'm a bit apprehensive about my 61-year-old knees (but they have been feeling a lot better lately since I started with CBD oil), especially on long road trips, but I do have other fun cars for long trips if necessary.

And, of course, it has to be red. Well, okay, if everything else is perfect, I would take blue. I love red cars and am tired of the ubiquitousness of black/white/gray/silver (although, yes, my E91 is Space Gray Metallic, but my Corvette, the Baja, and even the wife's Toyota are red). Not that I dislike black/white/gray/silver, but . . . well, ubiquitous, very, very ubiquitous.

I'm closer to 69 than I am to 68 and I drive nothing but sticks. A long trip is the least of your worries assuming you use cruise-control (I do not). I can tell you from experience (my wife's departed 128i Sport Auto) that the stick and the automatic are two very different cars. Your second paragraph in the first post in this thread mentioned track days and track night, plus autocross. Is that really something you'd want to do in an automatic?

And good luck on the red color. BMW hasn't put a decent red on a 128i since Crimson which they ended in February of 2012 when they replaced it with Vermilion Red Metallic (apologies to Vermilion owners).

You'll likely be wanting an LCI (updated) version after you do your homework, and also a sport or M-sport package—for the seats if nothing else—which will limit your universe of availability even further. Just hang in there.

[fotontom]

Originally Posted by BMWCCA1

I'm closer to 69 than I am to 68 and I drive nothing but sticks. A long trip is the least of your worries assuming you use cruise-control (I do not). I can tell you from experience (my wife's departed 128i Sport Auto) that the stick and the automatic are two very different cars. Your second paragraph in the first post in this thread mentioned track days and track night, plus autocross. Is that really something you'd want to do in an automatic?

And good luck on the red color. BMW hasn't put a decent red on a 128i since Crimson which they ended in February of 2012 when they replaced it with Vermilion Red Metallic (apologies to Vermilion owners).

You'll likely be wanting an LCI (updated) version after you do your homework, and also a sport or M-sport package—for the seats if nothing else—which will limit your universe of availability even further. Just hang in there.

Mine is Vermillion, and no apologies necessary! On a vert with a nice black cabrio top and black Boston interior, it is not quite as blah or even offensive as the same color on an E82. I bought it from a redheaded woman who kept it in excellent shape, lol. Had I ordered it, I would probably have gone to BMW Individual for a suitable color. Too many E88's are white, black or silver.

[K9Leader]

Hmm, thought I had found a potential candidate local to me but when I ran the VIN it came up as an N51 engine. I've not paid too much attention to the N51 in the past (as my E91 is an N52) but my understanding is that it already has the 3-stage intake to get it up to the same horsepower as the N52 with the single-stage manifold. So, limited possibility to get the significant power bump that the 3IM + tune gives to the N52. A shame as it is Crimson Red.

[Thunderguts]

I absolutely love my 128, but the thought does creep into my head that it will be harder and harder to maintain as time goes on. It sounds like you're not one to shy away from maintenance, but just getting parts will become more difficult. There were a decent number of performance parts made, but I don't know how long the aftermarket will support E82-specific items.

To be honest, if I were in the market now, I'd be looking at the 2022 Toybarus. They're likely every bit as tossable as the 128 and performance parts will be plentiful and easy to find for the next 20 years. They're the perfect track/Sunday drive car.

[Gray_Panther]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

Hmm, thought I had found a potential candidate local to me but when I ran the VIN it came up as an N51 engine. I've not paid too much attention to the N51 in the past (as my E91 is an N52) but my understanding is that it already has the 3-stage intake to get it up to the same horsepower as the N52 with the single-stage manifold. So, limited possibility to get the significant power bump that the 3IM + tune gives to the N52. A shame as it is Crimson Red.

I would still go for it.
The 1er weighs less so what you lose in power you make up in weight! Silly argument but still, you found a stick, red 1er. Jump on it! They are getting rarer day by day no thanks to this crazed secondhand market.

[bnace10]

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

To be honest, if I were in the market now, I'd be looking at the 2022 Toybarus. They're likely every bit as tossable as the 128 and performance parts will be plentiful and easy to find for the next 20 years. They're the perfect track/Sunday drive car.

I agree. I have a stock 135i, and no matter what anybody says, it's too fast for public roads. if E82 prices continue to rise (as they have been for the past year), I could see myself selling mine and picking up a lightly used 2023 Toyota 86

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

I would still go for it.
The 1er weighs less so what you lose in power you make up in weight! Silly argument but still, you found a stick, red 1er. Jump on it! They are getting rarer day by day no thanks to this crazed secondhand market.

Except my goal with this project is to go with the 3IM on an N52. I did it to my E91 and it is fantastic - pulls strong at every speed, every gear.

I am going to look at another one tomorrow that is local but has some issues (but is bargain-priced). Crimson red, black interior, manual, slicktop. Will need some work but the idea here is for a project I can occupy myself with. Will have to promise the wife that I will only do what is necessary to make it registerable/safe now and save everything else for when I am officially "retired."

[K9Leader]

Well, I looked at a 2011 128i - Crimson Red, black interior, 6MT. Engine and transmission are good, although there is clearly leakage from the oil pan and possibly valve cover - oil filter housing was good, though. Right front strut looks to be leaking, others are clean and dry. Tires are cheap no-names but almost done - close or to the tread bars. Wheels are in good shape with only minor curb rash. No radio - kid bought it without one and plans to put one in were scrapped when . . . warning lights and codes related to wheel speed sensors/DSC/ABS. He replaced two wheel speed sensors but not the solution. Mechanic/car guy friends have suggested it may be the ABS module.

Here are some of the codes:

Engine

Fault code: 002FE4 Vehicle speed, rear wheel speed sensor / left, electrically
Last occurred at: 135354 mi

Fault code: 002F57 Vehicle speed signal change
Last occurred at: 135354 mi

Fault code: 002F5F Vehicle speed, plausibility
Last occurred at: 135354 mi

Fault code: 002FE6 Vehicle speed, rear wheel speed sensor / right electrically
Last occurred at: 135354 mi

Fault code: 002F55 Vehicle speed, rear wheel speed sensor / right signal change
Last occurred at: 135364 mi

Dynamic Stability Control (DSC)
Fault code: 005DB6 Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal PSIP2 = unueltig. (DRS-type MM 3.x) / Advance sense rear left. / Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal PSIP2 = invalid;. DRS-type MM 3.x --- (DSC: DSC sensor
internal) / Yaw rate sensor: DRS sends signal PSIP2 = ungeltig (DRS-type MM 3.x). / Excessive initialization time error

Fault code: 005DB1 Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal AY1 = invalid. (DRS-type MM 3.x). / Rear wheel speed sensor left continuity (extrapolation) / Speed sensor, rear left extrapolation. / Steering angle sensor error jump / Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal AY1 = invalid;. DRS-type MM 3.x --- (DSC: DSC sensor internal) / Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal AY1 = invalid (DRS-type MM 3.x). Engine Dynamic Stability Control (DSC)

Fault code: 005DC1 Speed sensor, rear right extrapolation. / Valve USV2: error cyclic valve and relay test. / Valve USV2: error cyclic relay valve and test --- (DSC: control valve actuation device) / Valve (USV2):
error cyclic valve and relay test. / Rear wheel speed sensor right continuity (extrapolation) /Incorrect wheel speed sensor, front right


I'm starting to dig into them to figure out if this is the project I want to take on. He does have a bunch of spare parts, though - brake rotors and pads, shocks, and, a nice bonus, a 330i intake that the previous owner threw in and this kid did not understand it was any different than what is already on the car.

[Olgeezer1]

Also at retirement age and very happy with my 128i Sport Pkg., manual. Been adding upgrades slowly over the last 10 years (way to many to list, see my garage list ) to create, for me, the ultimate coupe for a twisty country road. So much stuff transfers from the E90 and M cars that's it's really easy to go down the rabbit hole, but that's 1/2 the fun. Reliable, useable real world power, a reminder of what old school BMW's were about. Ten years ago I looked everyday for 6 months for the right car. Take whatever color you find, be willing to travel and pay whatever they're asking for the right, well maintained car. End of an era.

[parameter416]

I'm also about your age and retirement is not far off. I bought my 128i 6MT M-Sport about 3 years ago after an extensive search.

I liked this comment from Olgeezer1 so much that I saved it and bookmarked it:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...9&postcount=66

If you want to read the entire thread, it's here: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1573886

[K9Leader]

Well, I did go ahead and buy the problem-child car I looked at Saturday. It is a base 128i (no Sport/M-Sport) but is almost exactly what I had in mind for colors/features - Crimson Red with black leather interior, 6MT, manual seats, slicktop, a pretty uncommon combo. Body/paint is as good as you could hope for on a 10-year-old car (that wasn't maintained by me or another enthusiast). Mileage is 133k but engine was smooth and had good power, transmission shifted nicely. And, it was "bargain-priced."

But the ABS/DSC lights are on and it is throwing all kinds of wheel speed sensor codes. This is the issue that broke the camel's back for the college kid that is selling it - he doesn't have the time or money to be diagnosing/fixing it. I am guessing it is the infamous ABS module - repair services on that appear to be in the $300-600 range and a new unit is in the $1200-1800 range. There are oil leaks/weeping, definitely at the oil pan, maybe at the valve cover (but oil filter housing looks good). Shocks/struts are old, possibly/probably original and right front appears to have been leaking for a good while but the others are dry and relatively clean. Don't know about the brakes, just assuming they will need to be done along with all of the fluids.

Interior is in very good shape, although missing the stereo. I have the one out of my E91 that I replaced last year so I'm hoping that will work for a while until I'm ready to upgrade. Rear side windows and rear window are tinted but it is bubbled and worn on the rear window so that will have to removed. Tires are no-name cheapies that are all almost to the tread bars but the wheels (base wheels for 2011) are actually in very good shape for 10-years old and will suffice for a while.

The kid was stockpiling parts when the ABS issues started and he is throwing those in - shocks/struts and brake pads and rotors, although I have not seen them so do not know if they are what I would want to use. Worst case, they are new so could suffice for a while until next year when I am officially retired and ready to get seriously into this project. He also has some parts pulled off of an M1 at the Audi dealership where he works (part-time) and his father and brother work. He sent me a pic - look to be mostly air intake parts but it does look as though there is a steering wheel. He also said the previous owner gave him an extra intake manifold - "off of a 330" - but he did not understand the significance. The 3IM is one of my planned upgrades so if it really is the 3IM and is usable (not cracked) that is a pleasant bonus. I wonder if it even has some DISA valves attached to it - maybe I can try rebuilding some DISAs.

I've promised my wife that I will only do right now what is necessary to pass inspection, get it registered and make it safe to drive and will save the rest for next year. Well, that's the plan anyway, if I can resist the (very strong) urge to start doing stuff right now!

Anyway, I've now joined the 1Addicts branch of BimmerPost and will have to keep up with two forums.

[Erik-AA]

Looks great! I bought a 128i coupe, MT, high miles, about 5 years ago. Now I have some ABS codes and issues, I'm about to post about that. I've been totally happy with mine until very recently, but I'm at 175k miles so that's OK. All I have done is routine maintenance brakes and Koni struts / shocks. I love the 128i. While I lust after the big power of the 135i or the M240 the truth is that for a daily driver on the street the 128i is just fine and a lot easier to live with. I wish mine was not silver.... but if that's my biggest gripe I'm in good shape.

[fotontom]

Congrats! Good-looking car! Yes, these are keepers and mileage is beginning to become irrelevant, as long as parts continue to be available.

[Jay15180]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

Well, I did go ahead and buy the problem-child car I looked at Saturday. It is a base 128i (no Sport/M-Sport) but is almost exactly what I had in mind for colors/features - Crimson Red with black leather interior, 6MT, manual seats, slicktop, a pretty uncommon combo. Body/paint is as good as you could hope for on a 10-year-old car (that wasn't maintained by me or another enthusiast). Mileage is 133k but engine was smooth and had good power, transmission shifted nicely. And, it was "bargain-priced."

But the ABS/DSC lights are on and it is throwing all kinds of wheel speed sensor codes. This is the issue that broke the camel's back for the college kid that is selling it - he doesn't have the time or money to be diagnosing/fixing it. I am guessing it is the infamous ABS module - repair services on that appear to be in the $300-600 range and a new unit is in the $1200-1800 range. There are oil leaks/weeping, definitely at the oil pan, maybe at the valve cover (but oil filter housing looks good). Shocks/struts are old, possibly/probably original and right front appears to have been leaking for a good while but the others are dry and relatively clean. Don't know about the brakes, just assuming they will need to be done along with all of the fluids.

Interior is in very good shape, although missing the stereo. I have the one out of my E91 that I replaced last year so I'm hoping that will work for a while until I'm ready to upgrade. Rear side windows and rear window are tinted but it is bubbled and worn on the rear window so that will have to removed. Tires are no-name cheapies that are all almost to the tread bars but the wheels (base wheels for 2011) are actually in very good shape for 10-years old and will suffice for a while.

The kid was stockpiling parts when the ABS issues started and he is throwing those in - shocks/struts and brake pads and rotors, although I have not seen them so do not know if they are what I would want to use. Worst case, they are new so could suffice for a while until next year when I am officially retired and ready to get seriously into this project. He also has some parts pulled off of an M1 at the Audi dealership where he works (part-time) and his father and brother work. He sent me a pic - look to be mostly air intake parts but it does look as though there is a steering wheel. He also said the previous owner gave him an extra intake manifold - "off of a 330" - but he did not understand the significance. The 3IM is one of my planned upgrades so if it really is the 3IM and is usable (not cracked) that is a pleasant bonus. I wonder if it even has some DISA valves attached to it - maybe I can try rebuilding some DISAs.

I've promised my wife that I will only do right now what is necessary to pass inspection, get it registered and make it safe to drive and will save the rest for next year. Well, that's the plan anyway, if I can resist the (very strong) urge to start doing stuff right now!

Anyway, I've now joined the 1Addicts branch of BimmerPost and will have to keep up with two forums.

Just as a point of reference. I recently had the wheel speed sensors go on the rear of my 128i at around 120k miles. When I removed them they had physical damage to the face of the sensor. As I understand it, the reluctor rings corrode and damage the sensors. Might be a thing to check before replacing the ABS module.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by Jay15180

Just as a point of reference. I recently had the wheel speed sensors go on the rear of my 128i at around 120k miles. When I removed them they had physical damage to the face of the sensor. As I understand it, the reluctor rings corrode and damage the sensors. Might be a thing to check before replacing the ABS module.

The young man I bought it from said that he had tried replacing the wheel speed sensors when it first happened but that did not solve the problem. I will still do some diagnosing - check the sensors for one thing.

[K9Leader]

I've made some progress with my ABS/DTC issues. The ABS warning lights would be on and then the DTC warning lights would come on and the car would start bucking and losing power. Solution to that was to turn off the DTC and it was drivable. Codes generally pointed to the wheel speed sensors. However, the kid I bought it from said he'd had the problem a few months earlier and replaced a sensor and that seemed to fix it. Then it came back and he tried replacing the sensor again but with no luck.

Poking around to make myself smarter about this, I found that while the sensors may be good, the reluctor rings (on the axle shaft) that the sensor is reading may be the problem. As corrosion collects under and around the reluctor ring is forced to expand and can crack and/or be too close to (or hitting it) the sensor for accurate readings. Fixes are to:
(1) replace the axle shaft
(2) replace the reluctor ring (but this involves removing the axle half shaft so why not replace it)
or the easy, cheap, quick fix (but not long-term):
(3) pull the sensor out and slip a washer under it, run the mounting bolt through the sensor mounting hole and through the washer. This moves the sensor away from the reluctor ring just enough.

I tried #3 tonight and it worked! DTC issue is gone and car is drivable again . . . although the ABS warning lights are still on so that is apparently a separate issue. So, I may be back to needing the ABS module repaired or replaced.

Do a search on "BMW reluctor ring replacement" - a lot of info and several videos.

So, replacing the axle half-shafts is now on the list. I ordered tires tonight - the ones on it when I bought it are done, with at least one fully to the tread bars. While I would like to replace the rims, I'm not ready to spend that kind of money (until I get this thing sorted out and know whether it is a keeper) so I just went with stock size - Sumitomo HTR A/S P03 - 205/50R17. I haven't used anything but Michelin or Continental on any of my cars in almost 30 years but these were rated almost as good and much less expensive. So these will do with the stock wheels for a while until I decide to upgrade.

The car came with some new-in-the-box parts - Power Stop drilled and slotted front rotors with Textar pads, Sachs 313-255 front struts with Lemforder mounts. The right front strut on the car is blown so I have to decide whether to use the Sachs struts or go with something a bit more sporting/upscale (Bilstein B6?). I will probably use the rotors but go with Akebono pads. It appears the rear pads were done fairly recently.

More updates to come . . .

[K9Leader]

Codes I got with my Schwaben/Foxwell scanner:

Engine electronics DME
2F57 vehicle speed signal change
2F5F vehicle speed plausibility
2FE6 vehicle speed wheel speed sensor rear right electrical

Need to learn how these are related to the ABS warning . . .