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06-11-2012, 03:11 AM | #1 |
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So who wants to help me tackle cooling on a budget?
Alright guys. It's summer and I don't want to be dodging limp mode all day, however I'd rather spend $1,500 on tires, track time etc. than an oil cooler. I reckon w/ some know how and determination I can do it on the cheap. I'm talking fabbing up my own oil cooler, covering everything possible in the engine bay in cool tape, wrapping the exhaust (I'm too cheap for jet hot), raising the rear of the hood. Literally any little trick in the book that can be done cheaply, maybe requiring some elbow grease. I plan on tackling it and I'll make sure to document everything I do here. Any suggestions/help off the bat?
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KW V3's, Sparco Pro2000's, Vorshlag CP's, JB4, Heat Wrapped Raceland DP's, aFe stg. 2 Sealed Intake, Miro 111's, Hankook RS3's 225/245 (for now), Seibon M3 CF Hood, Turner Motorsports Alum. Radiator, Big Tom IC, BMW Performance bumper.
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06-11-2012, 03:16 AM | #2 |
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i pulled the oil thermostat out, pulled all the plastic off the back of the engine bay, and jacked the back of my hood up about 1/2". Id say it helped ~5* total. but it was all for free, so not too bad.
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06-11-2012, 03:20 AM | #3 |
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Awesome!!! Exactly the stuff I'm searching for. Can I ask you how you raised the hood up? And when you say plastic pieces you mean the filter housing thing?
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KW V3's, Sparco Pro2000's, Vorshlag CP's, JB4, Heat Wrapped Raceland DP's, aFe stg. 2 Sealed Intake, Miro 111's, Hankook RS3's 225/245 (for now), Seibon M3 CF Hood, Turner Motorsports Alum. Radiator, Big Tom IC, BMW Performance bumper.
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06-11-2012, 05:48 AM | #4 |
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Maybe more than you want to spend, but here's a post that lists parts to retrofit the Performance 2nd radiator.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1273&highlight |
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06-11-2012, 06:23 AM | #5 |
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Very interesting project. I've been taking the traditional route to improve cooling by installing the PPK2 radiator/850w fan and the ER sport oil cooler. Oil temps have improved about 15 degrees but can still rise pretty quickly when driving hard. The last time I was under the hood, I noticed that there may be room to add ventilation to the back of the engine bay by drilling out some of the plastic on the back tray that the cabin filter bolts on. The rear hood seal slips onto a vertical support on the tray which is about 1-2 inches high. Seems like you could drill some ventilation holes in the vertical support with a small hole saw to let some of the heat pass under the seal. Probably not as good as raising the hood, but just a thought. Another crazy thought I've been have is... running cooling ducts to the turbos. Not sure if this would do much but I understand the failure rate of the rear turbo is significantly higher because of the lack of cooling.
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06-11-2012, 07:10 AM | #6 |
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Why not install the 1M's larger cooling radiator? I would think the route Pig_Farmer went was the right one... but if he is still getting hot temps... then the next step is increased cooling via the main radiator. Perhaps that is why //M went that route.
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06-11-2012, 07:15 AM | #7 | |
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I think just letting the engine run/cool down after a hard run would be the best way to avoid the meltdown of the turbos. That and frequent oil changes. When I was at the Welt for M3_Adjuster 's ED delivery the SA at the Welt said that you SHOULD always just let the engine run a few minutes after a long hard run or long drive. This is just common sense I think. He said that the turbos can literally be red hot after a hard run. And letting the engine run a few minutes can let the turbos cool down enough not to be critical heat temps.
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06-11-2012, 08:55 AM | #8 | |
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I just stacked some washers between the hood and the mounting bracket, i needed longer bolts though. it only takes a few minutes, the longest part is getting gaps on the side right. Even with my oil thermostat popped out, i haven't noticed any noticeably longer warm-up times. I also run my JB4 on maxcool mode. Not sure how this will affect the lifespan of the water pump, and the fan noise is a bit annoying (no more so that my flywheel chatter), I rarely get above 230-240* when 250 used to be the norm. |
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06-11-2012, 05:33 PM | #9 | |
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06-11-2012, 05:42 PM | #10 | |
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When I had my car's DME flashed by Marcel from MS Tuning over here... one of the things he does is drive the car before and after and makes a data-log. One of the things he looks at is EGT (exhaust gas temps). You can check/monitor them with the BT scan tool. I think the highest we got up too was 690' C. That is about 1460' F. Of course having a fairly empty autobahn with no speed limits helps get the temps to peak levels! In case you wanna see my flash tune write up here it is... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528152 I've been running Marcel's tune for over a year now and I am a happy camper. Not one engine check light nor any hiccups. Just what I wanted, no fuss just go! And I don't have to worry about the engine melting after a hard autobahn run. Dackel
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06-11-2012, 09:03 PM | #11 | ||||
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Quote:
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KW V3's, Sparco Pro2000's, Vorshlag CP's, JB4, Heat Wrapped Raceland DP's, aFe stg. 2 Sealed Intake, Miro 111's, Hankook RS3's 225/245 (for now), Seibon M3 CF Hood, Turner Motorsports Alum. Radiator, Big Tom IC, BMW Performance bumper.
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06-12-2012, 10:23 AM | #12 | |
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06-13-2012, 07:34 PM | #13 |
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Just thought of something really easy and cheap... Replace existing coolant with a 70/30 mix of demineralized water/coolant and add some water wetter to the mix. Probably good for a couple degrees for less than $50.
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06-13-2012, 08:29 PM | #14 |
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that's what I am running except with motul mocool mix. good for 10-15 deg. also run motul v-300 race oil. probably good for another 10-15
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06-13-2012, 08:41 PM | #15 |
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06-13-2012, 10:13 PM | #16 | |
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March till November I ran pure water. Simple tap water that I've boiled the night before. I've added 2 bottles of Water Wetter for lubrication. Never hit limp mode again. November-March I ran the OEM fluid mixed as suggested. |
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06-13-2012, 10:20 PM | #17 |
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Tap water? They do say NY has the best water in the country but I'd stick with demineralized or distilled water. Here in Florida our water is 90% alligator piss and 10% calcium... Not so good for the car!
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06-13-2012, 10:52 PM | #18 | ||
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Great to hear your experience, thanks.
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KW V3's, Sparco Pro2000's, Vorshlag CP's, JB4, Heat Wrapped Raceland DP's, aFe stg. 2 Sealed Intake, Miro 111's, Hankook RS3's 225/245 (for now), Seibon M3 CF Hood, Turner Motorsports Alum. Radiator, Big Tom IC, BMW Performance bumper.
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06-13-2012, 10:58 PM | #19 |
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And just FYI, I will start getting to these projects and documenting the results very soon. I just picked up catless dp's so I'm going to see how they affect temps on my current map and a map w/ more boost.
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KW V3's, Sparco Pro2000's, Vorshlag CP's, JB4, Heat Wrapped Raceland DP's, aFe stg. 2 Sealed Intake, Miro 111's, Hankook RS3's 225/245 (for now), Seibon M3 CF Hood, Turner Motorsports Alum. Radiator, Big Tom IC, BMW Performance bumper.
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06-14-2012, 06:52 AM | #21 | |
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I use 10-40 300V for spring through fall and BMW synthetic oil for winter. never ever had limp mode but had temps get close to 280 on very hot track days
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