Huge oil splatter after changing OFHG

[FtheBar.N55]

Hey all first post and I hope I'm posting in the correct place. Went to get an oil change done to my 1er and the dealership told me i had a bad leak from my OFHG and it needed to be replaced asap and wanted $1400 total. So I looked up some DIY's and got to it. Went smoothly, I replaced hot and cold side gaskets and bled my coolant system once everything was buttoned back up. On my way home tonight i did some pulls and she pulled just fine but when i pulled up to park i noticed smoke. Popped the hood and oil is everywhere...(just after i cleaned her up last night ) So i let her cool down and checked connections and everything is tight. Oil filter housing isn't moving and all hoses as well are nice and tight. Any ideas what could have caused this? where i should look or what to check other then connections on oil filter housing and cooler housing?

Side note... if anyone could link any DIYs to replace coolant level sensor it would be much appreciated. keep getting low coolant warning but it is at max.

Thanks

[juld0zer]

Photos?

Did you replace the oil cooler hose orings?

[dsocold]

clean up the mess again completely start motor and observe.. It clearly must be an install error or something

[135iblk2009]

Same happened to me. Needed to replace the two rubber o rings going to the oil cooler, make sure they don’t bind while tightening.

[FtheBar.N55]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Photos?

Did you replace the oil cooler hose orings?

Originally Posted by 135iblk2009

Same happened to me. Needed to replace the two rubber o rings going to the oil cooler, make sure they don't bind while tightening.

No i didn't replace those O rings? Just get oil cooler hose o rings from bmw? Those are the two hoses from the H plate correct? Appreciate the feedback.

[Katkarot]

You have to replace those 2 O-rings. Get them from BMW.

Originally Posted by FtheBar.N55

No i didn't replace those O rings? Just get oil cooler hose o rings from bmw? Those are the two hoses from the H plate correct? Appreciate the feedback.

[dsocold]

Originally Posted by Katkarot

You have to replace those 2 O-rings. Get them from BMW.

i didnt replace those and mine leaked but very minor but i guess some gaskets vary on how they change shapes due to the hot/cold cycle. My bet is somehow someway the gasket didnt get a perfect seal and is causing this leak. That is an excessive amount of oil My oil cooler lines were only sweating oil from not replacing them

[juld0zer]

Might be a good idea to replace the serpentine belt and thoroughly degrease the engine bay, especially all the rubber coolant hoses and they will swell a lot with prolonged oil contact.

[Tuxedo]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Might be a good idea to replace the serpentine belt and thoroughly degrease the engine bay, especially all the rubber coolant hoses and they will swell a lot with prolonged oil contact.

agree, this is a huge ounce of prevention. not a bad idea to replace the tension pulley too.

[christofis135i]

Did you clean out where the gasket sits? I made sure when I did mine 4 months ago that I cleared up any gunk that could've messed with the seal.

[Happy Jose]

Did you replace the aluminum bolts with new ones? The old bolts won't torque down correctly. Also notice the OFHG kit from FCP Euro:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428637821kt2

This kit solves the problem without any additional parts.

[juld0zer]

Bolts are steel.

[bbnks2]

Change your belt. I had an oil cooler line fail and shoot oil all over a BRAND NEW belt and not even a week later it snapped and the engine ate it. It's not worth the risk over the price of a new belt. It's a ton more work to replace the front crank seal and drop the oil pan than just throwing on a new $30 belt.

[Happy Jose]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Bolts are steel.

The bolts are aluminum. In fact, BMW uses aluminum bolts in all sorts of unexpected places like the pans on the transmission and engine. These are one-time use, and the new ones have to be carefully torqued into place!

[tracer bullet]

If you replace the belt make sure the pulleys and anything else the belt contacts are clean. It may or not be the oil on the belt that is an issue, i.e degrading it, but instead the oil on the interface between the belt and pulleys causing it to slip off.

I think too the bolts are steel but would also there suggest checking them with a magnet to be sure (if it sticks they are steel if not they are aluminum and shouldn't be reused). An important area of course for torquing correctly when a gasket is squished in the middle.

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by Happy Jose

The bolts are aluminum. In fact, BMW uses aluminum bolts in all sorts of unexpected places like the pans on the transmission and engine. These are one-time use, and the new ones have to be carefully torqued into place!

https://bimmercat.com/bmw/EN/search/selectCar/E82/Cou/BMW+135i+N55/ECE/11_4465
Oil filter housing bolts are steel. Even on the first generation N52 they are steel.

N55 sump does have aluminium bolts

Only sure way is the magnet test which is also advisable before removing a fastener so you know how much strife you'll be in when it flies into the abyss

[Happy Jose]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

https://bimmercat.com/bmw/EN/search/selectCar/E82/Cou/BMW+135i+N55/ECE/11_4465
Oil filter housing bolts are steel. Even on the first generation N52 they are steel.

N55 sump does have aluminium bolts

Only sure way is the magnet test which is also advisable before removing a fastener so you know how much strife you'll be in when it flies into the abyss

You may be right.