Can I do this on my own

whocoulditbe · 03-23-2021, 11:19 AM

128i was running fine until I ran the battery which to no surprise made it unable to start. So I charged the battery and it ran fine until a couple hours later when the voltage read 11.6, it wouldn’t start and I was unable to jump it. The cars headlights would dim when trying to start and the starter made a clicking noise. Never got it to crank because the power would cut out first. Had it towed to the dealership and they quoted me for
-replace starter motor
-replace eccentric shaft harness
-replace DME if it has oil on it
-replace drive belt and tensioner
I haven’t worked on cars before but everything seems doable at home for a lot cheaper but I wanted some input on how much of it might be unnecessary. IMO it seems like this could be fixed with a battery change and if not then new starter. Everything else seems a little too preemptive. Any input would be helpful. Thanks

asbrr · 03-24-2021, 02:28 PM

I don't know your comfort level (you said you haven't worked on cars before) - you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter for example...so even if you just did that it's a few hours work. It's not "hard" per se, but just do your research and be prepared.

NorthernDancer · 03-25-2021, 10:11 AM

Highly recommend you NOT tackle this work. Go to a good BMW indy. See bimrs.com

Thunderguts · 03-25-2021, 11:06 AM

I can't imagine why they're quoting you for a DME replacement. I see no reason to suspect failure. I think it's just a bad battery which you can easily do yourself, but you'll need to read up on coding the battery. How old is the battery?

I wouldn't go replacing the starter yet either. Geez, this dealer sounds like a real winner.

The eccentric shaft sensor itself (not sure why they think the harness is bad) is a common failure point. You should probably go ahead and replace that. This is NOT something you want to attempt if you're not comfortable working on cars. Pay an indie shop to do it and that way you'll get a new valve cover gasket which is another common failure point. Hopefully they will guarantee their work against leaks for 6 months or so.

The drive belt and tensioner are really easy to replace, even for a novice (assuming you have the right tools). If you're already going to an indie for the ESS though, just pay them to replace it. They shouldn't charge more than 30 minutes labor to replace it and the parts are pretty cheap too.

They don't call them stealerships for nothing...

dtla1 · 03-25-2021, 11:13 AM

I see what the dealer said you need to change, but there are some common issues with our cars that show the same/similar symptoms for at least the starter issue.

Beyond the battery dying/being dead, there is the main power cable that comes from the jump post under the hood on the passenger side over the engine and then down behind to the starter. That cable has been known to fray at the jump post and cause these sort of issues.

Another is the grounding strap to the engine. It attaches to the subframe on the drivers side, near the steering column. It's known to corrode and cause a bad ground, also resulting in slow start or starter like issues.

Other than that, what the people above me said too..

03-23-2021, 11:19 AM	#1
whocoulditbe Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: BMW 128i Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: Ohio iTrader: (0)	Can I do this on my own 128i was running fine until I ran the battery which to no surprise made it unable to start. So I charged the battery and it ran fine until a couple hours later when the voltage read 11.6, it wouldn’t start and I was unable to jump it. The cars headlights would dim when trying to start and the starter made a clicking noise. Never got it to crank because the power would cut out first. Had it towed to the dealership and they quoted me for -replace starter motor -replace eccentric shaft harness -replace DME if it has oil on it -replace drive belt and tensioner I haven’t worked on cars before but everything seems doable at home for a lot cheaper but I wanted some input on how much of it might be unnecessary. IMO it seems like this could be fixed with a battery change and if not then new starter. Everything else seems a little too preemptive. Any input would be helpful. Thanks
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03-24-2021, 02:28 PM	#2
asbrr Major 545 Rep 1,233 Posts Drives: 2014 335ix M-Sport Join Date: May 2015 Location: Toronto iTrader: (1)	I don't know your comfort level (you said you haven't worked on cars before) - you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter for example...so even if you just did that it's a few hours work. It's not "hard" per se, but just do your research and be prepared.
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03-25-2021, 10:11 AM	#3
NorthernDancer Colonel 850 Rep 2,276 Posts Drives: 08 Sedona 128 & 06 330xiT 6MT Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Ottawa On Canada iTrader: (3)	Highly recommend you NOT tackle this work. Go to a good BMW indy. See bimrs.com
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03-25-2021, 11:06 AM	#4
Thunderguts Major 785 Rep 1,000 Posts Drives: 2009 128i Sport MT Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: DFW iTrader: (0)	I can't imagine why they're quoting you for a DME replacement. I see no reason to suspect failure. I think it's just a bad battery which you can easily do yourself, but you'll need to read up on coding the battery. How old is the battery? I wouldn't go replacing the starter yet either. Geez, this dealer sounds like a real winner. The eccentric shaft sensor itself (not sure why they think the harness is bad) is a common failure point. You should probably go ahead and replace that. This is NOT something you want to attempt if you're not comfortable working on cars. Pay an indie shop to do it and that way you'll get a new valve cover gasket which is another common failure point. Hopefully they will guarantee their work against leaks for 6 months or so. The drive belt and tensioner are really easy to replace, even for a novice (assuming you have the right tools). If you're already going to an indie for the ESS though, just pay them to replace it. They shouldn't charge more than 30 minutes labor to replace it and the parts are pretty cheap too. They don't call them stealerships for nothing... __________________ Official BMWP Whore - BMWP suspension kit w/ M3 arms, BMWP big brake kit, BMWP intake w/Mishimoto tube, BMWP exhaust, BMWP carbon strut brace, BMWP short shifter, and BMWP carbon spoiler. OZ Leggera HLT w/ 245 square setup.
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03-25-2021, 11:13 AM	#5
dtla1 Colonel 828 Rep 2,232 Posts Drives: 2011 135i, Space Grey Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Silicon Valley iTrader: (2)	I see what the dealer said you need to change, but there are some common issues with our cars that show the same/similar symptoms for at least the starter issue. Beyond the battery dying/being dead, there is the main power cable that comes from the jump post under the hood on the passenger side over the engine and then down behind to the starter. That cable has been known to fray at the jump post and cause these sort of issues. Another is the grounding strap to the engine. It attaches to the subframe on the drivers side, near the steering column. It's known to corrode and cause a bad ground, also resulting in slow start or starter like issues. Other than that, what the people above me said too..
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