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      05-01-2018, 07:44 AM   #1
NonoxX
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Rear end vibrations on 135i

Hi,
A few weeks ago, I started noticing strange noises on my 2010 E82 N55 DCT 135i. It may be worth noticing that it is now FBO.
I started getting relaively strong vibration from the rear end when accelerating, while driving over 80 km/h (50 mph). I get absolutely no noise while cruising at the same speeds. Only when accelerating.
I had a look under the car and couldnít see anything. I checked the following items and they seemed OK:
  • Flector
  • Driveshaft Central Carrier
  • Output shafts (no sensible play)
  • Suspension arms silentblocs
  • Rear carrier silentblocs

I have no idea where to investigate further... Did anybody already have that kind of issue? Most cases I saw were flector failure. But here it seems not..
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      05-07-2018, 03:18 AM   #2
NonoxX
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I think I finally found the culprit...
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      06-18-2018, 08:25 AM   #3
NonoxX
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Hi, my 135 just received brand new tyres, and it did not fix the vibration / shaking issue on the 135i.
Has anybody further ideas?
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      06-20-2018, 01:28 AM   #4
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I had a very similar vibration on my 09 N54 after installed m3 subframe bushings. Vibration at high speed but only under acceleration. In my experience there's two possible hypothesis that could explain the vibrations.

1. When I installed the M3 bushings I F'd up and didn't pay attention to the clocking orientation of them. There's dots that are supposed to be pointed forward. I had the left side 90deg off from the right side. Fail. This "could" have created a stiffness difference between the left and right side of the car. Under load (acceleration) the rear subframe could possibly rotate very slightly relative to the body and mess with the angle between the drive shaft and diff causing the vibration.

2. When I bolted the subframe back to the body I didn't check to ensure the hole thru holes in the subframe bushings were concentric with the threaded holes on the body. This could also lead to a slight angle in the drive shaft where it meets the diff and create vibrations.

Once I realized I messed up the bushing clocking (item 1), I replaced the bushings with new ones and made sure the clocking was correct. Also I obsessed about getting the thru holes in the bushings to be concentric to the body treaded holes to ensure the subframe was square to the body. After doing this the vibration went away!

Not sure if you've worked on rear subframe recently, but that could likely have something to do with it. Also, if you decide to loosen & retighten anything up with the rear end I would highly recommend getting an alignment afterward.
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      06-22-2018, 05:35 AM   #5
NonoxX
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That's interesting. I did not work on the rear subframe recently. However, I do have Powerflex Black subframe bushing inserts since a while. Could they have gotten old, and therefore cause such vibrations?
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      06-28-2018, 01:58 AM   #6
NonoxX
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So... I've had a look at my subframe bushings yesterday: everything seems fine, mounted properly and torqued to specs.

Had a second look at the guibo and drivershaft carrier. Both look ok (no defect in the rubber), the driveshaft carrier did not show any noticeable play.

The differential has a significant oil leakage where the driveshaft comes in. This for sure has to be fixed. Could it be a reason for my vibrations or is it just a consequence or even a coincidence?
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      12-09-2018, 05:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skimm343 View Post
I had a very similar vibration on my 09 N54 after installed m3 subframe bushings. Vibration at high speed but only under acceleration. In my experience there's two possible hypothesis that could explain the vibrations.

1. When I installed the M3 bushings I F'd up and didn't pay attention to the clocking orientation of them. There's dots that are supposed to be pointed forward. I had the left side 90deg off from the right side. Fail. This "could" have created a stiffness difference between the left and right side of the car. Under load (acceleration) the rear subframe could possibly rotate very slightly relative to the body and mess with the angle between the drive shaft and diff causing the vibration.

2. When I bolted the subframe back to the body I didn't check to ensure the hole thru holes in the subframe bushings were concentric with the threaded holes on the body. This could also lead to a slight angle in the drive shaft where it meets the diff and create vibrations.

Once I realized I messed up the bushing clocking (item 1), I replaced the bushings with new ones and made sure the clocking was correct. Also I obsessed about getting the thru holes in the bushings to be concentric to the body treaded holes to ensure the subframe was square to the body. After doing this the vibration went away!

Not sure if you've worked on rear subframe recently, but that could likely have something to do with it. Also, if you decide to loosen & retighten anything up with the rear end I would highly recommend getting an alignment afterward.
I had no idea, what those blue dots on the bushings indicated, thank you for this, i thought it was just for production of the bushings quality control :/ looks like i need to do the RSFB again...damn it.

Regarding the hols in the bushings to be concentric to the body threaded holes, im not clear on what to look for/check for this, do you have a pic or can you describe this better?

I will just drop the whole rear frame this time around, need to replace the rear sway bar anyways, LSD will be installed next month.
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      12-24-2018, 12:37 AM   #8
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Your diff is rooted. A bearing/the bearings have failed, causing the differential to float around in the housing. It sounds like a flat tyre and howls above 50kmh.

Get the car onto a hoist or securely raise the rear on stands and chock the front, get the rears spinning up to the noisy speed and have a look at the pinion (input) and output flanges. The last one i dealt with had failed carrier bearings and it also had oil leaking from one of the output seals. The output flange oscillated.
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      01-04-2019, 10:33 AM   #9
NonoxX
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Hi, I tested extra things.

I had the opportunity to swap my diff with a similar one: result is negative. The symptoms are exactly the sames with both diffs.

Also, I removed my powerflex inserts and once again, it didn't change anything... Except that my rear axle is now floaty.

The flector and driveshaft center bearing have been changed. Could that be a symptom of a misbalanced driveshaft?

I've now driven more than 10000km with that problem and it didn't evolve much, though it remains worrying.
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      01-05-2019, 07:57 AM   #10
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You might be overlooking an obvious sign. The picture above shows excessive wear on the tire edge. Is that from tracking the car or is your alignment way off? How about a wheel bearing?
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      01-05-2019, 10:41 AM   #11
NonoxX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
You might be overlooking an obvious sign. The picture above shows excessive wear on the tire edge. Is that from tracking the car or is your alignment way off? How about a wheel bearing?
My alignment has quite a lot of negative camber on the rear (2į which is still OK according to BMWs specs).
I donít track this car but drive it hard regularly.

Do you think a wheel bearing could lead to that? When the car is on jack stands there is no play that I can feel.

Edit: are there some tests I could do to confirm that? I donít get the characteristic noise of a dead bearing while changing directions.

Last edited by NonoxX; 01-05-2019 at 11:17 AM.
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      01-06-2019, 12:02 AM   #12
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As suggested you need to raise your car on jack stands (make sure its nice and secure). Then what you do is "drive in air"....or better yet have someone drive while you check under. Have this person give gas and press the break at the same time to mimic acceleration/load. My advice would be not to lay directly under the car but maybe take a look kneeling down on the side of the car (for safety reasons). My guess is there might be play in the driveshaft (maybe from u-joint ? ) . Good luck and please keep us posted.
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      01-11-2019, 09:52 AM   #13
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Any updates?
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      01-11-2019, 10:03 AM   #14
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My car had done this a few times when wheels get bent. Tire can look fine. Took major balancing efforts and problem resolved.

Just another idea if you haven't specifically addressed that.
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