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      06-23-2017, 11:30 AM   #45
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Just went by my dealer to pick up my brand new M3 rear subframe and whatever other bits I still needed to finish the rear. Subframe comes with all new M3 bushings......subframe, diff, control arms. Once you factor that into the cost then it stops hurting so much.

Tomorrow will see the beginning of the rear end phase. After checking with a mechanic friend, I'll be putting the diff in the subframe prior to lifting it into place. He had said that a couple of the bolts holding up the diff were tight to get to if I tried to bolt it up after the frame was in place. I'll leave off all of the control arms, axles, and hubs in order to keep things light.
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      06-25-2017, 12:54 PM   #46
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no progress this weekend and I'm out of town next weekend.

I'll try to get some things done during the week:
replace inner CV boots on rear axles
replace ball joints on rear hubs
pre-assemble some of the subframe

New FMIC is on order. I'll be switching from AA to AD Engineering due to distortion of bumper so that I can't fit a splitter.

Every part in this picture is brand new from the dealer:
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      07-21-2017, 09:14 PM   #47
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      07-23-2017, 07:22 AM   #48
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I've stalled and I can't get moving again.

Summer time is family vacation time and that means I need to pack the same amount of work into less time at the office. I also enjoy spending time on the boat.

In a couple of weeks I'll have time to start the subframe pre-assembly but it doesn't look like I'll be doing the actual swap until September.

I can say that just doing the front has made a huge difference in the car in terms of handling. The M3 brakes are also a tremendous improvement.
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      11-20-2017, 11:26 PM   #49
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Finally, made some headway now that the pool's closed, the boat's on land, and the boy is back in school.

In September, I had a few hours to tinker on a Saturday (while closing the pool) so I figured I'd tackle replacing the CV boots. As you can see in the picture below, not so good, and both sides were in the same condition. Disassembly was a piece of cake and cleaning everything off just took some brake cleaner and paper towels. I took pictures while taking things apart but I did make two mistakes putting the joints back together. The first mistake was just dumb: there are "V" grooves where the big ball bearings run in the inner and outer rings of the joint. My mistake was not lining up the "V's" staggered. It's kind of hard to explain unless you're in there and if you don't do it right, you'll never get all the balls back in. I got the first joint together no problem. The second joint ate up a couple of hours and I set it aside for about 3 weeks. Once I saw the "V" thing, I was able to put it back together quickly. Second mistake: a big one. The inner ball race has a step cut into the splines. This side should slide onto the axle first, I put them backwards and resorted to Thor's Hammer to get things seated.

Having gotten the axles back together, assembling the subframe was fairly easy and it helped quite a bit to have the nuts and bolts pre-assembled onto each control arm. Everything just bolted up, no swearing necessary. I'm leaving the calipers and rotors off until after the subframe is bolted up in order to keep the weight down. All up weight is around 300 lbs. I'll also put in new parking brake shoes and backing plates before adding the rotors and calipers (caliper were rebuilt in September).

I had bought 2 dollys at Home Depot some weeks back. I'll use these and some wood to create a cradle for the assembly, then push it into a corner until Spring. This will give me time to double check I've got everything I need to bolt up the subframe and driveshaft.
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      11-26-2017, 03:31 PM   #50
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Made up the cradles yesterday and got things mounted today. I forgot that one axle is longer than the other so I had to make some minor changes after the unit was on the cradle. A little bit hair raising since the entire thing wound up on the floor when I was doing a trial fit. Almost took out my foot.

Not as pretty as I'd hoped but there was a lot of on-the-spot engineering and I only used cheap framing studs.

Now i've got a warm and dry home for my car over the winter.
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      12-06-2017, 02:32 PM   #51
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You rockin man !
Upgrade you diff to something better while its out tho
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      12-06-2017, 05:18 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
You rockin man !
Upgrade you diff to something better while its out tho
That's an M3 diff and axles.

ALL M3 bits including a true M3 subframe (see post #46), which looks to be better built than the stock e82 subframe. Full tubular sections vs. welded box areas around the diff.
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      12-06-2017, 06:29 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
That's an M3 diff and axles.

ALL M3 bits including a true M3 subframe (see post #46), which looks to be better built than the stock e82 subframe. Full tubular sections vs. welded box areas around the diff.
Are you N54 6MT using a E9X DCT 3.15 m3 diff like the 1m?

No one has published the exact driveshaft length. When you get your custom shaft made, please post the length.

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      12-06-2017, 08:38 PM   #54
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Bikes, my car is a 2012 135i, N55, 6MT will be running an M3 DCT diff as you stated.

In preparing to pull off the rear end swap I looked for a local-ish shop to do the driveshaft work but no one wanted to take it on. I need to minimize downtime on the car so mailing it out was not an option. So, after buying an M3 shaft and a brand new CV for it, I wonít be using it. Instead, I purchased a brand new 1M shaft.

I know the N55 driveshaft length is not what youíre after but Iíll measure the new one and post those numbers at some point
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      12-07-2017, 09:25 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes View Post
Are you N54 6MT using a E9X DCT 3.15 m3 diff like the 1m?

No one has published the exact driveshaft length. When you get your custom shaft made, please post the length.

Marco
That is what i'm using too, lenght for N54 is 1325mm, lenght for N55 is 1339mm, that being said, the shaft is adjustable on multiple point, so even with 1339mm it would work on a N54.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
That's an M3 diff and axles.

ALL M3 bits including a true M3 subframe (see post #46), which looks to be better built than the stock e82 subframe. Full tubular sections vs. welded box areas around the diff.
I know i've been running this setup for a year now, M3 diff is not that good, i'm switching to a ZF 45/45 soon.
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      12-07-2017, 09:48 AM   #56
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I know i've been running this setup for a year now, M3 diff is not that good, i'm switching to a ZF 45/45 soon.[/quote]

I've got a feeling my diff was rode hard so a rebuild to new spec or replace might be in order in the near future. Will it ever end $$$$$$
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      12-07-2017, 11:29 AM   #57
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What rear toe arms did you end up going with that will work with this setup?
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      12-07-2017, 01:48 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
What rear toe arms did you end up going with that will work with this setup?
I had bought and installed Rogue Engineering toe arms but decided against them since my car will be daily driver/occasional track and then become full track. Looking at the rod ends, there's a Zerk fitting for grease and a dust boot on either side of the heim joint. The boots aren't soft rubber but they're also not hard plastic. They fall somewhere in between.

For me, living in the northeast, with salt and snow to ruin anything that's exposed, the above engineering didn't seem like a good idea for a road car. In the end, I bought TRW M3 toe arms and called it a day.
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      12-07-2017, 01:53 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
I had bought and installed Rogue Engineering toe arms but decided against them since my car will be daily driver/occasional track and then become full track. Looking at the rod ends, there's a Zerk fitting for grease and a dust boot on either side of the heim joint. The boots aren't soft rubber but they're also not hard plastic. They fall somewhere in between.

For me, living in the northeast, with salt and snow to ruin anything that's exposed, the above engineering didn't seem like a good idea for a road car. In the end, I bought TRW M3 toe arms and called it a day.
Makes sense. I thought I read somewhere that the M3 toe arm wont work when mounting the M3 sub frame to the e82 chassis. Good to know the factory M3 toe arm will work.
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      12-07-2017, 02:00 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Makes sense. I thought I read somewhere that the M3 toe arm wont work when mounting the M3 sub frame to the e82 chassis. Good to know the factory M3 toe arm will work.

That's interesting. I did 6 months of research before beginning to buy parts and I didn't come across this. Do you have more details? I don't want to get stuck without the right parts as I'm putting things back together.

Maybe you're referring to the fact that 135 and M3/1M toe arms are different lengths so, unlike the other rear arms that are 100% interchangeable, the toe arms are not. In my case, though, I'm using full M3 components including hubs and axles so there's no snag there. The problem arises when adding M3 arms to a stock 135 rear suspension as an "upgrade".
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      12-07-2017, 02:19 PM   #61
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Mouting points are not the same on the subframes, on M3 and 1M subframe the mounting points of the toe arm are more towards the outside of the car, hence why you need shorter toe arms.

*edit: May i suggest you to go with aluminum subframe bushings while its out. New M cars have solidely mounted subframes now.

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      12-07-2017, 02:36 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
That is what i'm using too, lenght for N54 is 1325mm, lenght for N55 is 1339mm, that being said, the shaft is adjustable on multiple point, so even with 1339mm it would work on a N54.

I know i've been running this setup for a year now, M3 diff is not that good, i'm switching to a ZF 45/45 soon.
The M3 diff is of different dimension than our e82 diffs. A 1M uses an N54 with an N55 transmission so the 1M shaft is not bolt up on an N54 w/ N54 transmission. You need to make a custom shaft. With the measurement, it would be great to get a shaft made before doing the axel swap to save time. Versus doing the swap, measuring yourself and then having the shaft made like i did with my v8 swap.

Both n54/n55 use the same diff. The difference in shaft length is due to the transmission length.
N55 135I - 1385mm
N54 135I - 1373mm

Difference - N54 = 12mm Shorter


1M N54/N55 Trans - 1339MM

N54/N54 Trans / M3 DIFF is likely 1327mm but I want confirmation.
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      12-07-2017, 02:44 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes View Post
The M3 diff is of different dimension than our e82 diffs. A 1M uses an N54 with an N55 transmission so the 1M shaft is not bolt up on an N54 w/ N54 transmission. You need to make a custom shaft. With the measurement, it would be great to get a shaft made before doing the axel swap to save time. Versus doing the swap, measuring yourself and then having the shaft made like i did with my v8 swap.
Man, i did it, i know what i'm talking about.
Took my oem shaft, and put a V8 flange at the end, total lenght was 1339mm. With all the lenght modification done to the REAR part of the shaft of course, from central bearing to diff.
Been working flawlessly for a year now, well except the diff that is shit but thats something else.
1M shaft is different, has less adjustability as far as the central mating point goes, front and rear parts of the 1M shaft are bolted together, so 0 adjustability there.
It is different for the oem 135i shaft, it is a spline mating, it can slide quite a lot. So 1339mm will actually work on both N54 and N55 tranny due to that adjustability at the central bearing.

*edit: of course both shafts have splines, 1m is bolted , 135i is free to slide.

Last edited by Traf; 12-07-2017 at 02:57 PM.
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      12-07-2017, 04:18 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
Man, i did it, i know what i'm talking about.
Took my oem shaft, and put a V8 flange at the end, total lenght was 1339mm. With all the lenght modification done to the REAR part of the shaft of course, from central bearing to diff.
Been working flawlessly for a year now, well except the diff that is shit but thats something else.
1M shaft is different, has less adjustability as far as the central mating point goes, front and rear parts of the 1M shaft are bolted together, so 0 adjustability there.
It is different for the oem 135i shaft, it is a spline mating, it can slide quite a lot. So 1339mm will actually work on both N54 and N55 tranny due to that adjustability at the central bearing.

*edit: of course both shafts have splines, 1m is bolted , 135i is free to slide.


That is very interesting. So you are saying a standard 135i shaft can be adjusted with the central bearing and just by bolting the v8 flange to the n54 shaft it bolts up? This is absolutely new information. Everyone prior, myself included all got custom shafts made.

I attached VTL's illustration from his custom shaft. Only 2mm from what I expected it to be off of Real OEM.

What was your issue with the diff? I have had an m3 diff for years and have only had good success with it.
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      12-07-2017, 04:32 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
That's interesting. I did 6 months of research before beginning to buy parts and I didn't come across this. Do you have more details? I don't want to get stuck without the right parts as I'm putting things back together.

Maybe you're referring to the fact that 135 and M3/1M toe arms are different lengths so, unlike the other rear arms that are 100% interchangeable, the toe arms are not. In my case, though, I'm using full M3 components including hubs and axles so there's no snag there.
Yup. I must of been thinking of something else. I shot an email to Harold at HPA and he confirmed the M3 toe arm will work with the M3 subframe/suspension.
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      12-07-2017, 04:41 PM   #66
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Bikes and Traf, the item you are calling a V8 flange is actually a full CV joint connection vs the stock 135 simple 50mm nut coupler thing.

I've got one those CV joint flanges for sale. BNIB. I was going to rebuild the M3 shaft that I bought.

Anyone interested? M3 driveshaft and/or CV joint for sale

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1443492

the driveshaft is not listed in that post but I have it.


**Traf: great contribution on that driveshaft conversion. Too late for me, but others will benefit.
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