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      03-14-2016, 06:23 AM   #23
Rosso83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenc51 View Post
how was the process overall? your first time?
First pump change yes. It was straight forward just make sure you have a few different length socket bars and knuckles to get to the bolts.

As I said, the push fittings took a fair bit of pressure to get off and back on.
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      03-26-2016, 06:33 PM   #24
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Thanks very much for the video - really helped me! The 'quick disconnects' were not very quick - took a lot of patience and prying to get them to pop off. I think they should be called quick assembly.
My error code was 2EF8.

-Joe

Last edited by joeo; 03-26-2016 at 06:38 PM.
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      04-12-2016, 03:19 PM   #25
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My 128i has a little dribble from somewhere around the T-stat/ water pump, only 30,000 miles. What I don't get is they use the pain the a$$ quick disconnect hoses but some of the other hoses have traditional (easy) clamps. Why not use all clamps.
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      04-12-2016, 03:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNS View Post
My 128i has a little dribble from somewhere around the T-stat/ water pump, only 30,000 miles. What I don't get is they use the pain the a$$ quick disconnect hoses but some of the other hoses have traditional (easy) clamps. Why not use all clamps.
Because the quick disconnect hoses are faster when they build up the car on the assembly line.
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      04-13-2016, 10:28 AM   #27
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Looks like I will be replacing my first water pump and thermostat this weekend.. 135i currently at 67k miles. Started noticing the symptoms coming into work this morning. Cooling fan running full speed, no heat from vents, low power, but no codes. It was 37F this morning. I will limp it back home and use a motorcycle for the rest of the week. Purchased the kit from OEMBimmerParts. Kit includes: Pump, Pump hardware, Thermostat, and 3.8L BMW coolant for $450 shipped. We'll see how it goes.

Last edited by BratsForBilstein; 04-13-2016 at 03:32 PM. Reason: Forgot to include price.
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      04-19-2016, 08:11 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BratsForBilstein View Post
Looks like I will be replacing my first water pump and thermostat this weekend.. 135i currently at 67k miles. Started noticing the symptoms coming into work this morning. Cooling fan running full speed, no heat from vents, low power, but no codes. It was 37F this morning. I will limp it back home and use a motorcycle for the rest of the week. Purchased the kit from OEMBimmerParts. Kit includes: Pump, Pump hardware, Thermostat, and 3.8L BMW coolant for $450 shipped. We'll see how it goes.
Repair was completed Friday afternoon in about 4-5 hours. For reference, this was completed in a driveway. Can probably achieve less time with a lift. The videos are very helpful. Repair was straight forward. The only hurdle were the quick connects. They were not quick to disconnect or to reconnect.. Overall, for the cost savings it is well worth completing yourself rather than sending to a dealership.
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      04-29-2016, 02:23 PM   #29
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Interesting that he closed the bleeder screw completely during the bleeding process. When looking at the coolant flush DIY, one person left it off and another cracked it slightly during the process. Thoughts on that?

Will have to check the Bentley later on for when my water pump fails. I'm at 57K mi, so it can't be long now...

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      04-29-2016, 04:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianc View Post
Interesting that he closed the bleeder screw completely during the bleeding process. When looking at the coolant flush DIY, one person left it off and another cracked it slightly during the process. Thoughts on that?

Will have to check the Bentley later on for when my water pump fails. I'm at 57K mi, so it can't be long now...

ianc
I think the correct way is to leave the bleeder screw open or remove it - until all the air bubbles escape(during the cycling of the e-water pump). I normally even re-bleed the cooling system the next day on my e39 - after working on the cooling system. The system always tends to "burp" itself after a day or two of driving(e39).
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      04-29-2016, 05:04 PM   #31
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Thanks for the tip Dack; seems like leaving it in would be preferable if it could redirect the bled coolant back into the expansion tank rather than gouting it all over the place.

Car is getting older now so I think you'll be seeing me more frequently around here again.

OFHG leaking now, so will be gearing up for that job quite soon. Take care,

ianc
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      05-03-2016, 11:19 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianc View Post
Thanks for the tip Dack; seems like leaving it in would be preferable if it could redirect the bled coolant back into the expansion tank rather than gouting it all over the place.

Car is getting older now so I think you'll be seeing me more frequently around here again.

OFHG leaking now, so will be gearing up for that job quite soon. Take care,

ianc
While filling with coolant, I left the bleeder screw completely open. While running the auto-bleed feature I left it completely closed, per the video. I did not experience any issues.
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      05-12-2016, 12:47 PM   #33
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I'm about to tackle this preventatively (128i with 55k), and wondered if you all are chaning hoses at the same time while you are in there. Suggestions?
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      05-12-2016, 04:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markslc1 View Post
I'm about to tackle this preventatively (128i with 55k), and wondered if you all are chaning hoses at the same time while you are in there. Suggestions?
I would change the U-shaped hose that goes from the e-pump to the e-thermostat. Also all the (alu)bolts for the water pump need to be replaced.

You might also want to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses - IF - your car is over 90K or so. Feel the hoses... IF they are hard to the touch or have any signs of cracking... its time for replacing the hoses.

Dackel
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      05-22-2016, 01:39 AM   #35
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I will be doing this in a few hours as my pump failed on Friday. Shoutout to euroenvy autowerks in concord that had everything in stock that I needed to do this.
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      05-23-2016, 10:39 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I would change the U-shaped hose that goes from the e-pump to the e-thermostat. Also all the (alu)bolts for the water pump need to be replaced.

You might also want to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses - IF - your car is over 90K or so. Feel the hoses... IF they are hard to the touch or have any signs of cracking... its time for replacing the hoses.

Dackel
Finished the job yesterday in about 8 hours. I did the pump, tstat plus the 3 hoses. The hoses were a pain to release and I eventually had to pull the radiator to get the lower hose off. So that took extra time.

Funny that the "old" pump was the exact same brand as the one I put in "pierburg". So maybe this was not the original pump?! I was proactively replacing, but maybe the parts were not as old as I thought. 08 128i with 55k.
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      06-20-2016, 08:46 AM   #37
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In the process of doing this now.. got EVERYTHING off pretty easily except for that last "quick" disconnect (should be quick-reconnect !) on the front side of the thermostat.. the one that has the Y-fitting then gos to id say 1/2" hose and then to the tstat ... ive got the clip completely off the fitting, but its stuck as hell spent almost an hour and a half yesterday fighting it.. i think im going to drop my fmic (its a 7") and see if i cant get in there with a screw driver.. the bigger elbow quick disconnect on the front needed some flat head therapy to come loose, im suspecting that will be the only way i can get this smaller line too.. also, if you dont have silicone based lubricant laying around for the re-install, you can use a TINY dab of clean motor oil, literally a drop on your finger and swipe around the hose's inner and it'll help them slide back together again.. same with the quick disconnects, but swipe around the o-ring since thats the only part that sticks.. man this tstat is a pain in the arse !

def a diy for anyone not afraid to take your time and learn something new, but those quick disconnect fittings are a serious pain to get apart. be warned.. also, def need the E12 socket and the swivel adapter to get that upper pump bolt.. and pay attention to where he go's into the cavity to make that angle, its about the only place that will work to get locked down and keep it in place as you turn it.. the bolts on the pump are not tight though, id say that they maybe had 15ft lbs tq on them max, all came out very easily once on them.

good luck all ! dig in and learn something new - and save yourself about 1000.00 said and done !
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      06-20-2016, 10:36 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dat1seriesdoe View Post
In the process of doing this now.. got EVERYTHING off pretty easily except for that last "quick" disconnect (should be quick-reconnect !) on the front side of the thermostat.. the one that has the Y-fitting then gos to id say 1/2" hose and then to the tstat ... ive got the clip completely off the fitting, but its stuck as hell spent almost an hour and a half yesterday fighting it.. i think im going to drop my fmic (its a 7") and see if i cant get in there with a screw driver..
I had my dealer do my replacement because they only wanted 200 euros in labor for this entire job. I thought that was a pretty good deal - so I let them do it. But I know the pain you are in with dealing with those quick-connect hoses.

Recently I had to replace an upper coolant hose on my e39 leading to the water pump... I also had trouble. What I did was I pop up the clip, and then I used a LONG pry bar and smacked it good with a dead-blow hammer. Only took two good smacks before it came off.

IF the hose is really stubborn you might just replace it too. Feel the hoses to make sure they aren't hard and brittle or cracking. They should be soft and flexible.

Dackel
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      06-21-2016, 08:42 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post

IF the hose is really stubborn you might just replace it too. Feel the hoses to make sure they aren't hard and brittle or cracking. They should be soft and flexible.

Dackel
hoses seem good and pliable ...

I finally got it yesterday, since it was the last connection, i twisted the tstat and got an angle on it with a flat head and pry'd it loose.. got everything out and reinstalled in about 25-30 minutes - bolted up, plugged in and clamps tight..

Now im fighting this last 1" elbow on the front side of the tstat.. i can not for the life of me get it to go deep enough for the clip to catch the channel on the nipple side. Thats literally the only thing left for me to complete.. ran outta light last night - its in front of my work and ive been getting to it after i get off each day starting at 5pm and it gets dark around 845-9pm.. im hoping today i can get the elbow to go on deep enough. yesterday that break from it allowed me to get that last connection off - so im hoping the same today with the elbow haha.

still def worth doing no matter what - i got parts from rockauto.com (gates pump & stant tstat) both reputable names next day shipped for $460.00 total and had it in a day.. local Firestone wanted $1600 to do the job, and i dont even want to know what the dealership would want to charge.

its a little bit of a pain in the ass, but ill take a pita to save 1140.00 any day!
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      06-24-2016, 08:53 AM   #40
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Okay - So, for anyone having issues with the "quick" disconnect fittings - here is the key to getting them to go back together smoothly - lubricant, lubricant, lubricant.

I used CLEAN 5w30 castrol that i use for my motor, any kind will do, and a silicone based lubricant is probably better, but the oil wont hurt.. dab your finger in it and wipe it around the inside of the female end (with the clip on it) and make sure you get the o-ring, you'll feel the o-ring. I believe that is what was getting hung up the worst.. apply to the male side as well, but most importantly is the female side, and utmost importantly, the o-ring inside of that female side..

After applying a generous few finger dabs to it, it went right back together with moderate force - you may need to position a flat head on one of the flat back edges or tabs. but i promise you, it will work and make your life 1000x easier.
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      06-25-2016, 02:46 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dat1seriesdoe View Post
Okay - So, for anyone having issues with the "quick" disconnect fittings - here is the key to getting them to go back together smoothly - lubricant, lubricant, lubricant.
GREAT tip!!
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      08-19-2016, 02:13 PM   #42
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Don't use oil...it will degrade rubber. Likely not enough to cause a failure but why risk it? If you don't have some silicone-based lube, just use soap (baby shampoo works great).
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      10-20-2016, 12:24 PM   #43
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My 2008 water pump just packed it in at 120,000 km. Happily it was close to home so no flatbed was required.

Thanks to BAV Auto for a great DIY video. I would add two suggestions that worked well for me:

1) the quick connect couplings did not want to budge so I sprayed them with silicone spray, allowing the spray to pentrate into the joint. They came apart quite easily after that.

2) for re-assembly I put some silicone grease on the hoses and on the quick connect nipples. Everything slid together easily.

Finally, the video does not identify the torque values for the pump and thermostat mounting bolts. According to the Bentley manual, these are:

Pump Bolts (aluminum) 89 in.lb. plus 90 turn

Thermostat Bolts 71 in.lb.
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      05-25-2017, 06:05 PM   #44
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Completed this job today, the vids helped me make a plan of attack. Got it done in 2.5 hours
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