Relocated the water pump? Anyone? Bueller?

Blu3RSX · 01-18-2019, 08:10 AM

Okay, so, I'm sure most of you are all pretty familiar with the infamous electric-driven water pump.

Personally, I think it's a great idea that this component is NOT mechanically driven because it does eliminate itself from the equation of parasitic horsepower loss.

However, I think the engineers missed the ball with its location.

My question is this: has anyone here relocated their water pump to a place in the engine compartment where it was easier to get to?

For example, I rarely, if ever, use my windshield washer because I'm a big fan of Rain-X and just clean my windshield at the gas station during fill-ups. In this case, I would just put the water pump / thermostat in that location where it would also probably help to dissipate heat since it's not right near the engine.

Just curious what the forum might think about this and any pros / cons about this modification.

iminhell1 · 01-19-2019, 03:09 PM

I don't believe the engine heat is what kills the pumps. I feel it's coolant being old and carrying a charge (it should be dielectric) that leads to the pumps failing.
As the coolant ages it picks up more contaminates and starts to carry a charge. That causes the pump to work harder, amp draw rises. Once that draw reaches a point the controller reaches a limit and shuts down. The pump physically still works, it's just drawing too much power to run.

Or that's my theory.

Dackelone · 01-19-2019, 04:09 PM

What about just making some sort of heat shield for the e-pump ?

We don't really know how much longer the new revised e-pump will last. But IF it lasts another 60- 80K I think that's about right for a water pump.

juld0zer · 02-06-2019, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dackelone

What about just making some sort of heat shield for the e-pump ?

We don't really know how much longer the new revised e-pump will last. But IF it lasts another 60- 80K I think that's about right for a water pump.

Agreed on the lifespan.

It's not that hard to get to. Just awful doing the job on your back and copping a mouthful of residual coolant.

iminhell1 · 02-18-2019, 11:59 AM

Well

gjm120 · 02-20-2019, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iminhell1

I don't believe the engine heat is what kills the pumps. I feel it's coolant being old and carrying a charge (it should be dielectric) that leads to the pumps failing.
As the coolant ages it picks up more contaminates and starts to carry a charge. That causes the pump to work harder, amp draw rises. Once that draw reaches a point the controller reaches a limit and shuts down. The pump physically still works, it's just drawing too much power to run.

Or that's my theory.

If this is correct, another reason to do frequent coolant changeouts!

juld0zer · 02-23-2019, 06:28 AM

The pump impellor is usually physically stiff to turn with your fingers, which I suppose can increase the current draw.

Perhaps the lubricant properties of the coolant is insufficient?

01-18-2019, 08:10 AM	#1
Blu3RSX Industrial Designer 28 Rep 39 Posts Drives: 2013 135i. It's blu3 ^_^ Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Tallahassee, FL iTrader: (0)	Relocated the water pump? Anyone? Bueller? Okay, so, I'm sure most of you are all pretty familiar with the infamous electric-driven water pump. Personally, I think it's a great idea that this component is NOT mechanically driven because it does eliminate itself from the equation of parasitic horsepower loss. However, I think the engineers missed the ball with its location. My question is this: has anyone here relocated their water pump to a place in the engine compartment where it was easier to get to? For example, I rarely, if ever, use my windshield washer because I'm a big fan of Rain-X and just clean my windshield at the gas station during fill-ups. In this case, I would just put the water pump / thermostat in that location where it would also probably help to dissipate heat since it's not right near the engine. Just curious what the forum might think about this and any pros / cons about this modification. __________________ Cowl Delete Injen Intake BMS Stage 1 BMS Pedal Tuner ARM 5" Intercooler
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01-19-2019, 03:09 PM	#2
iminhell1 C2H5OH 3915 Rep 2,144 Posts Drives: 2010 SG 135i auto Join Date: May 2015 Location: Darwin, MN iTrader: (1)	I don't believe the engine heat is what kills the pumps. I feel it's coolant being old and carrying a charge (it should be dielectric) that leads to the pumps failing. As the coolant ages it picks up more contaminates and starts to carry a charge. That causes the pump to work harder, amp draw rises. Once that draw reaches a point the controller reaches a limit and shuts down. The pump physically still works, it's just drawing too much power to run. Or that's my theory.
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01-19-2019, 04:09 PM	#3
Dackelone European Editor 10528 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	What about just making some sort of heat shield for the e-pump ? We don't really know how much longer the new revised e-pump will last. But IF it lasts another 60- 80K I think that's about right for a water pump. __________________ Dackel's European Delivery Museum Guide
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02-18-2019, 11:59 AM	#5
iminhell1 C2H5OH 3915 Rep 2,144 Posts Drives: 2010 SG 135i auto Join Date: May 2015 Location: Darwin, MN iTrader: (1)	Well Attached Images
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02-23-2019, 06:28 AM	#7
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	The pump impellor is usually physically stiff to turn with your fingers, which I suppose can increase the current draw. Perhaps the lubricant properties of the coolant is insufficient?
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