Would you buy a high mileage N55 135i

[xlr231]

Do you think this 135i with 126k miles is a bad idea?

2011 135i

I just had something rip a hole in the oil pan of my current car. I'm not sure that it's worth fixing so I probably need to make a fast decision and get something locally. I've only been looking for 5 months now...

[Level3]

Personally I'd buy this 2008 with nav before I'd buy that 2011. It's also automatic with black leather and M sport. Also has factory nav. Has 2k less miles. I like the n54s tuning and upgrade options more. Plus the 2008s have forged internals. If both are in similar condition, I'd get the n54, but that's just me. You can use the 2+ grand in savings to do upgrades or save for maintenance.

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/6042990254.html

[doublevanosrc]

Car looks like a bit tired and like it was owned by someone who didn't have the proper funds to maintain it properly(mismatched tires, cheap rotors). If it's in your price range check the cars service history and carfax. With this kind of mileage, it should have had a bunch of things done to it already like spark plugs, water pump, valves blasted etc. Any way you slice it you better have a nice stack of benjamins on standby in case something fails cause it won't be cheap. This car has been driven a lot for its age, who knows if it was highway or city? Adult or teenager?

[xlr231]

Originally Posted by Level3

Personally I'd buy this 2008 with nav before I'd buy that 2011. It's also automatic with black leather and M sport. Also has factory nav. Has 2k less miles. I like the n54s upgradeability more. Plus the 2008s have forged internals. If both are in similar condition, I'd get the n54, but that's just me. You can use the 2+ grand in savings to do upgrades or save for maintenance.

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/6042990254.html

I've seen that one, but I thought the N55 is supposed to be more reliable. I don't plan on doing any performance mods. The extended warranties on the turbos and HPFP would be up on that one.

[Dthltm]

Originally Posted by Level3

Personally I'd buy this 2008 with nav before I'd buy that 2011. It's also automatic with black leather and M sport. Also has factory nav. Has 2k less miles. I like the n54s tuning and upgrade options more. Plus the 2008s have forged internals. If both are in similar condition, I'd get the n54, but that's just me. You can use the 2+ grand in savings to do upgrades or save for maintenance.

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/6042990254.html

Navigation is a joke and idrive sucks. Think of it this way, remember when they were building cell phones into cars in the 80s and 90s? That is what an old antiquated nav system will be like if you keep this car long term.

[Level3]

Originally Posted by Dthltm

Navigation is a joke and idrive sucks. Think of it this way, remember when they were building cell phones into cars in the 80s and 90s? That is what an old antiquated nav system will be like if you keep this car long term.

Awesome... is this code for buy the n55 with no nav? If not, then thanks for adding absolutely nothing to this thread champ.

[Level3]

Originally Posted by xlr231

I've seen that one, but I thought the N55 is supposed to be more reliable. I don't plan on doing any performance mods. The extended warranties on the turbos and HPFP would be up on that one.

N55 is more reliable. I wasn't looking for reliability when I bought mine though. This car keeps me from putting too many miles on my M3. heh Get the 2011. If you aren't modifying, it's probably the better choice for you. I'd get it thoroughly inspected first though.

[ShocknAwe]

Someone recommending getting a car with iDrive/Nav? Whew.

Get a good PPI by a shop you trust and make sure the vanos bolt recall was done. Things like mismatched tires and cheap rotors are easy to fix.

[captain slowly]

Like others have mentioned, look at carfax for service records and damage. If everything checks out, I see no reason why you shouldn't get it. Maybe even get the vin and go to your local bmw dealer and see if they'll give you the service history.

[IndyRed128i]

126K on a 2011, even when considering it very well could have gone into service in 2010 is insane. Body looks pretty clean, but I agree with everyone who has mentioned potentially expensive repairs. I'd spend the extra money if possible and get something sub 75k miles.

[xlr231]

I've been looking for a 2011 on the 75k-85k mile range for around $15k but right now I'm not seeing any available around here.

Did you think I'd be better off with a 2009 with 75k or this 2011 with 126k from a reliability standpoint?

[Level3]

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/6041472763.html

This looks right by you... but still n54.

[sometorque]

That high mileage probably indicates mostly highway mileage, which is certainly going to be less stressful on the various components of the vehicle.

assuming it's well-priced, you do your due-diligence and the car passes a PPI, it could be a good buy.

[xlr231]

I'm not a big fan off red interiors.

From what I've read the n55 is supposed to have more reliable turbos, HPFP, injectors (and much cheaper if replacements are needed), and less of a need for walnut blasting.

I just had the 2011 checked out by a shop. Most of what they found was maintenance items. Needs 4 tires, rear pads, front rotors and pads, new battery. Other than that old radiator hose that looks like its starting to fail. Broken engine splash guard and fender liner. Also 1 bad tire pressure sensor.

They also said all 4 wheels are bent which the dealer disputed. There was no curb rash on them and any vibration was very minor. Over all they said it would be about $2500 in repairs, plus tires and fixing the wheels which they don't do.

[Tommm]

Originally Posted by xlr231

I'm not a big fan off red interiors.

From what I've read the n55 is supposed to have more reliable turbos, HPFP, injectors (and much cheaper if replacements are needed), and less of a need for walnut blasting.

I just had the 2011 checked out by a shop. Most of what they found was maintenance items. Needs 4 tires, rear pads, front rotors and pads, new battery. Other than that old radiator hose that looks like its starting to fail. Broken engine splash guard and fender liner. Also 1 bad tire pressure sensor.

They also said all 4 wheels are bent which the dealer disputed. There was no curb rash on them and any vibration was very minor. Over all they said it would be about $2500 in repairs, plus tires and fixing the wheels which they don't do.

Looks like you made up your mind.

If it needs tires, and the wheels are bent, look for low mile take offs.

[xlr231]

No, haven't made up my mind yet.

I think reading all the new threads from just this week on here about people having issues with their DCT leaking and their oil filter housing leaking, and a bunch of other random problems are making me hesitant to make a decision. This will be my daily driver and I don't want to get stuck with something that needs a bunch of expensive repairs. This one also isn't in my top 2-3 choices of colors.

Maybe I'd be better off with a lower mileage 2009 with a 3rd party warranty or with a 128i.

[Mr Rooty Von Tooty]

Anyone who wants to buy an old high mileage vehicle which won't drive them to the poor house should be looking for a Toyota Corolla. If they are considering a BMW, they should check themselves into the local nut house!

[xlr231]

So my choices are a Toyota Corolla or the poor house? Assuming I don't get hauled off to the nut house first... How depressing.

I wouldn't consider a 2008-2011 vehicle old, and 125k miles is kind of borderline high mileage. In these cars that have had several well know reliability issues maybe I'd consider that high, but in general 125k isn't that high.

My current car is a 1999 BMW 323i with 175k miles, that would be an old high mileage car. But in the 3.5 years I've owned it I've managed to stay out of the poor house. Maintenance has only cost me about $2000 on it. Granted, it would have been more if I didn't do most of the work myself. Did I just get lucky? Are these cars really that unreliable or is it just a case of only reading about the problems with them when you get on the forums?

[tock172]

Originally Posted by xlr231

So my choices are a Toyota Corolla or the poor house? Assuming I don't get hauled off to the nut house first... How depressing.

I wouldn't consider a 2008-2011 vehicle old, and 125k miles is kind of borderline high mileage. In these cars that have had several well know reliability issues maybe I'd consider that high, but in general 125k isn't that high.

My current car is a 1999 BMW 323i with 175k miles, that would be an old high mileage car. But in the 3.5 years I've owned it I've managed to stay out of the poor house. Maintenance has only cost me about $2000 on it. Granted, it would have been more if I didn't do most of the work myself. Did I just get lucky? Are these cars really that unreliable or is it just a case of only reading about the problems with them when you get on the forums?

The M52 engine in your 323i is much, much simpler and far less prone to expensive failure in comparison with a turbocharged and direct injected BMW like a 135i.

Of the several BMWs I've had the pleasure of owning, only two were sub 100k cars. It is absolutely worth it to wait, save up and pay a little bit more up front for the car that has been cared for and driven less.

[mr.fabulous]

Originally Posted by xlr231

My current car is a 1999 BMW 323i with 175k miles, that would be an old high mileage car. But in the 3.5 years I've owned it I've managed to stay out of the poor house. Maintenance has only cost me about $2000 on it. Granted, it would have been more if I didn't do most of the work myself. Did I just get lucky? Are these cars really that unreliable or is it just a case of only reading about the problems with them when you get on the forums?

It's a little of both. What you read about here are *problems*. You seem to understand that.

I had a professor in college who liked to say "the mean time between failures for a part that does not exist is infinite". I always liked that. The more complicated shit becomes, the more likely it is to break. I drove an M52 E36 coupe to 170K and that car cost me next to nothing for 15 years. Buy anything new from BMW, and it will cost more. How much more depends on how badly you beat it... and maybe a bit of luck.

Personally, I'm getting a little old for this crap (58) and this is easily my last BMW. I suppose I will settle into a nice Buick and shuffle off into the sunset. Not yet... this E82 is easily the most beautiful, comfortable, best handling, and most wicked fast car I have ever owned. All of that comes with a price I will one day not be interested in paying. Not quite yet. Someday...

[Mr Rooty Von Tooty]

I don't think some of you really get it. What would be a minor inexpensive repair on say a Jap car could be a very expensive repair on a BMW. Also the Japs make cars of considerable complexity which have few problems.

Let's get right to the problem. Take my leaking DCT. What does technical complexity have to do with this? A bad gasket or a bad mechatronic sleeve? My God oil leaks are a thing of the past for most cars but not for BMW! How about those cam bolts that needed to be replaced, because they might break?

Germans love to brag about their engineering prowess, but I can tell you mechanical horror stories about their Wunderwagons over the years. With all their great engineering achievements, their vehicles often fail for shoddy parts and poor quality control.

You should examine the repair histories compiled by Consumer Reports. Mercedes Benz slots into the middle between the best and worst cars. Until lately, BMW was a peg or two above. However, things are looking up for BMW, since they seem to be moving up in reliability. Of course, not all German cars are bad. Porsche and Audi have gained top spots keeping company with Lexus in reliability.

In any case, I would never buy a used BMW especially if it was considered a performance oriented model. People who buy these kind of cars often think they are the incarnation of Barney Oldfield. Also BMWs seem to suffer from a rare disease known as progeria. A hundred thousand miles on a bimmer is equivalent to a million on a Toyota.

I'll conclude with a final piece of advice. Only buy a BMW when you have made it, and you have plenty of mad money and don't mind spending it.

[xlr231]

I realize these cars are much more complicated and prone to failures than my old 323i. I guess I'm just trying to gauge how unreliable the more recent offerings are.

From everything I've read the N55 was supposed to have mostly fixed the issues with the turbos, HPFP, injectors, and reduced the need or at least increased the intervals for walnut blasting the valves. Is that accurate? Even with these improvements would you still consider this an un-reliable car?

I have read about the DCT transmission leak issues, are these pretty widespread? If I'm buying a car with 75-100k miles and it hasn't ever leaked do you think that means it won't or it just hasn't happened yet?

At this point I guess my options are, roll the dice on a slightly lower mileage N55, get an N54 and a 3rd party warranty, get an even lower mileage 128i, or I can start looking at Infinity G37s and Lexus is350. Definitely not buying a Corolla.

I realize these are expensive cars to maintain compared to other brands, I'm just trying to get a sense of how (un)reliable these are. The forums are always full of horror stories. A few $500 or a $2000 repair bill a year beyond normal maintenance isn't going to put me in the poor house... it may have me cursing BMW's name, but I'll survive. But if I can expect $5000 bills and/or repeated $2000 repairs I probably don't want to go down that road.