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      06-05-2018, 11:36 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
have you considered completely removing the AT heat exchanger and just adding a thermostat and oil cooler? Then, you could possibly change the CSF AT radiator to the MT radiator (I think you need one of the MT coolant hoses as well), allowing the entire radiator to be dedicated to cooling the motor.
I have a 10 row cooler running in-line with the heat exchanger. I have considered this now that I'm driving the car on the street less
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      06-18-2018, 12:00 AM   #156
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Ran Sonoma for my first time with Nasa this weekend, Saturday was a lot of fun, until the N54 did what it does best on Sunday morning.

The good... Got 3 sessions in and it was really fun/tough getting accustomed to the elevation changes and walls, lots of walls. It's a really fun track, this was my first time on a track with cement walls near apexs/track-out points where you're running at 100mph+ inches from the wall. Power out oversteer near walls definitely takes time getting accustomed to. Ran 275 square but was still getting tons of understeer, moving back to stock front sway and installing the M3 rack ASAP. Might move up to 750lbs rear springs and bump fronts to 450lbs with the stock front sway.

We also had some novice Nascar drivers in our group practicing for this weekend's Nascar event, those stock cars are loud as hell. Also, they weren't super fast through the technical sectors of the track from what I saw / lap times.

The bad....unfortunately by run 4 my water temps were again getting into the high ~230/240s at which point I got a water pump code. On Sunday I was overheating at idle and I couldn't get the pump to cycle. It seems that all of my engine temp issues this last month have been due to a dying water pump. I'm pretty happy to find this out as my temps were rock solid at 195* which indicates that my CSF radiatior is doing its job.

Was able to put down a 1:55 yesterday which is decent for a TT3-4 car. Pretty happy with it for my first time out there but there's a ton left in the car, definitely shooting for a 1:50 next time out. More importantly, the weather was great and didn't pass 75*
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      06-18-2018, 12:02 AM   #157
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Couple of quick pics.
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      06-18-2018, 12:28 AM   #158
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Has this car been weighed recently?
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      06-18-2018, 01:21 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
Has this car been weighed recently?
It's been a while. It was 3400# with me and a 1/2 tank but I have since removed the stock exhaust and now run a single 3in straight pipe. Guessing ~35lbs savings.

Still to-do:
Sunroof delete - 55lbs
Trunk Liner/Carpet - 15-20lbs
Deka battery - 20lbs (run cheapo battery now)
Few other things in an attempt to hit 3000# bo-driver.

Will have some videos up soon
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      06-18-2018, 01:49 AM   #160
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Oh ok cool. You can also save a lot of easy weight with the hood, fenders, and door skins. Good god is that stuff heavy especially the doors. Is the sunroof really 55 lbs?
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      06-18-2018, 01:51 AM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
Oh ok cool. You can also save a lot of easy weight with the hood, fenders, and door skins. Good god is that stuff heavy especially the doors. Is the sunroof really 55 lbs?
Yeah the door panels are coming off along with rear interior parts.

Have you gutted your car?
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      06-18-2018, 02:05 AM   #162
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No not yet. I do have a weight reduction spreadsheet. It should be possible to go under 3000 lbs including a 140lb driver without doing anything too crazy but you have to remove the AC and replace the battery with a front mounted lifepo4.

One other thing is glass is really heavy. I've removed the glass on other cars and especially the front and rear windscreens are ridiculous and lexan is a good investment there. Only for track tho. Lexan side windows are good for a street car if you're careful and you save track-worthy weight.
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      06-18-2018, 01:40 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
No not yet. I do have a weight reduction spreadsheet. It should be possible to go under 3000 lbs including a 140lb driver without doing anything too crazy but you have to remove the AC and replace the battery with a front mounted lifepo4.

One other thing is glass is really heavy. I've removed the glass on other cars and especially the front and rear windscreens are ridiculous and lexan is a good investment there. Only for track tho. Lexan side windows are good for a street car if you're careful and you save track-worthy weight.
Yeah, I'm probably going with a 11/15lb deka for price reasons.

I will probably keep AC for now, we'll see how aggressive I want to get with this car.
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      06-18-2018, 05:24 PM   #164
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A/C is ideal for track cars, especially when it's 100+ degrees at Willow Springs.
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      07-21-2018, 04:16 AM   #165
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Little update on the car. Mods, weight reduction, etc.

Suspension:
- moved from MCS 1WNR to Fortune 510
- stiffened rear to 750# - left fronts at 400#
- deleted sunroof
- wrapped headliner
- fabbed dual core oil cooler setup
- other cooling stuffs .

Moved to FA 510 shocks, financial decision and no real difference on car feel for lap times (based on very limited seat time). Also upped rear springs to 750# and may go to 450# up front. I have added some old rear helper springs to make swapping rear rates very easy.

I removed sunroof and filled with BimmerWorld E92 CF filler plate that I had laying around. Little modification and it fits perfect. Still need to weight sunroof to measure weight loss.

Wrapped the headiner with suede and filled in the sunroof hole with cardboard and expanding foam, definitely not a long term fix but satisfactory while I look for a 128 headliner.

Added second 25 row CXRacing core for engine oil on driver side. This seems to be the optimal size for bumper fitment and coming capacity. I am planning on swapping out the ole 34 row passenger core with identical core on-line.

Deleted the coolant/tranny heat exchanger and connected CSF radiator and custom tranny cooler to their respective hose lines. I have a 19 row core coming for the tranny as I have been seeing slow shifts and power reduction in high heat (with water and oil temps in check) ... AND today my first code for tranny temp. May go 6MT / DCT at somepoint?

These mods should future proof the car for any level of power that I will run and should survhibe full sessions in 100* temps for summer.

I have removed my halo seat for my "knockoff" Bimarxos from the EU, These weigh less, fit better and are FIA certified all for $300ish. These also went into the car to allow for more comfortable daily driving when I'm not out killing eardrums with my E92 M3.

Lastly, the most important modification was my roll cage. I painted the cage a "cherry res" which we know ards 30-50HP. I also removed some random rear Accessories like seat belts and trim pieces to make it more clean looking until I get a block off plate for the trunk area.

I now need to weigh the car and get a final weight.


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      07-21-2018, 04:58 AM   #166
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Some progress pics
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      07-25-2018, 04:21 AM   #167
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So you ran St XTA coilovers, then the XTA Springs with Clubsport dampers (?), Moton´s and now fortunes, right?

Can you give a short summary what were the differences?
I have an XTA with Standard rates atm and still not decided what to do next (because i want to see if new coilovers make a difference): Buy KW Clubsports (maybe with 1m rates), buy Öhlins with Fitting rates or maybe even go KW Competition...

Would like to hear a summary from someone who tried that much Setups.
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      07-25-2018, 10:21 AM   #168
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Quote:
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Some progress pics
Holy aux radiators! It's probably somewhere in the thread but what are they all for?
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      07-25-2018, 02:30 PM   #169
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Quote:
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Holy aux radiators! It's probably somewhere in the thread but what are they all for?
Spxxx lives in a broiling hellscape.
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      07-26-2018, 08:03 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frontside0815 View Post
So you ran St XTA coilovers, then the XTA Springs with Clubsport dampers (?), Moton´s and now fortunes, right?

Can you give a short summary what were the differences?
I have an XTA with Standard rates atm and still not decided what to do next (because i want to see if new coilovers make a difference): Buy KW Clubsports (maybe with 1m rates), buy Öhlins with Fitting rates or maybe even go KW Competition...

Would like to hear a summary from someone who tried that much Setups.
I've run the following setups:
ST-XTA (only 4-5 events)
KW V3 (~10 events)
MCS 1WNR (~10 events)
Fortune Auto 510s (haven't run them yet)
** Never ran Motons

Yes, I have a problem with switching setups way too often and would probably be faster if I just stuck with a shock for longer than half a season lol... Plan to run the Fortunes until I hit the limits of the car and will then likely run MCS 2WNR (12-18mo from now).

I'd suggest going with a mid level monotube, I would love the Bilstein clubsports or MCS 2Ways but they're both pricey. Fortune Auto is often overlooked but plenty of fast drivers run them, I personally think that KWs are a bit overhyped unless you're going with their competition shocks / Clubsports. Bilstein PSS10s are also awesome and bulletproof, just throw some linear springs on them w/ camber plates.

In regards to reviewing the coilovers, here's a brief overview... The KWs had the most adjustment range being 2-way adjustable but couldn't handle large bumps and curbs anywhere near as well as the MCSs. I expect the 510s to be very similar to the MCS shocks in terms of adjustability and handling of aggressive driving. I actually ran a 1:59 at Buttonwillow with MCS front shocks and some old Fortune 500 rears off my M3 last weekend in 107* heat (awaiting my rear 510s to arrive as they were damaged during shipping). I'm guessing this ability to keep the car settled while taking corners aggressively, hitting berms and "2 or 3 wheeling" is thanks to the (generally) superior design of monotube shocks

I definitely picked up 1-2 seconds at most tracks by moving from the XTA to the V3 shocks (with Swift linear springs) last year. I'm sure some of this was also me just developing as a driver. I'm fairly new to the track world and plan on sticking with the Fortunes for a good while. I don't expect much difference between the MCS 1WNR and 510s, it was a financial decision as I got an extremely good deal on the Fortunes and my MCSs were basically new to sell.

The next few months will be the true test of the setup as I finally have adequate cooling and should get a bunch of seat time over the rest of the summer.
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      07-26-2018, 08:10 PM   #171
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I'm replacing the large black core with a slightly smaller 25 row core and upping my small tranny cooler to a 19 row core. Need to figure out a mounting location for the tranny core & replace the lines as I knicked one and had to fix it with some spare hose I had.

Track season in CA often means 100-110* temps through June-Aug so major cooling is required for all fluids.
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      07-31-2018, 09:06 PM   #172
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Little video from BW two weeks back. Quickly thrown together with Harry's Laptimer.



I wanted to test out my new oil coolers but my tranny cooler wasn't keeping up with the 150* tarmac temps so I only got in 6 laps. Was running MCS front shocks and some old Fortune 500 shocks off my M3 so I feel pretty good about the 1:59 with a sub-par suspension setup. The car is feeling good, excited for the Fortunes. I never would have thought that I'd be excited to be moving from MCS to Fortune Auto shocks. This month's projects:

- New Fortune Auto 510s going on next week
- (2) in-line CXRacing 25 row oil coolers
- (1) 19 row CXRacing tranny cooler (unfortunately I had to mount it in front of my FMIC due to space constraints).
- Some custom oil cooler shrouding
- Rear Subframe bushings (finally) - I've been running powerflex rear position bushings w/ only inserts in the front position.
- Hopefully getting the M3 steering rack installed (would love tips/tricks from others who have DIYed this
- Injector cleaning / replacement (misfires are becoming more common but INPA hasn't been working great on my laptop

Would love to get into the high 1:57s by EOY, thinks it's doable with some suspension tuning and actual seat time without stupid N54 limp mode. I'm thinking that relocating the ambient air temp sensor outside the bumper will reduce the likelihood of the DME pulling power due to high ambient temps.
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      08-01-2018, 08:25 AM   #173
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When you install the rack, find a hands-free way to hold the steering wheel straight before you remove the old rack and keep it at that position when you install the new one.

In addition to that get a second set of hands if at all possible.

Also, re-use your 135i inner tie rods. The e90 inner tie rods are too long and you will end up with a lot of negative toe.

Last edited by ajsmithvmi; 08-01-2018 at 08:32 AM..
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      08-01-2018, 09:28 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
When you install the rack, find a hands-free way to hold the steering wheel straight before you remove the old rack and keep it at that position when you install the new one.

In addition to that get a second set of hands if at all possible.

Also, re-use your 135i inner tie rods. The e90 inner tie rods are too long and you will end up with a lot of negative toe.
Agreed, get a second set of hands to hold the steering wheel. Other than that, it's really straight forward and shouldn't take much more than an hour. After you fill up the reservoir make sure you let it run and turn the wheel back and forth a bunch of times, mine bubbled for a lot longer than I expected.

For the tie rods, just reuse your whole 135 tie rods and your alignment shouldn't be totally garbage. I got new ones while I was in there and even doing a tape measure alignment the drive to the alignment shop was interesting.
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      08-01-2018, 11:29 AM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
When you install the rack, find a hands-free way to hold the steering wheel straight before you remove the old rack and keep it at that position when you install the new one.

In addition to that get a second set of hands if at all possible.

Also, re-use your 135i inner tie rods. The e90 inner tie rods are too long and you will end up with a lot of negative toe.
Ha yeah I picked up some toe plates to get it "aligned" in the garage. Thanks for the 135 toe ends, I've heard differing advice on this.

Also good to hear that the PS system will basically bleed itself, as much as I know about cars, my knowledge of PS systems is super limited lol.

I'll text you in a bit, have some "news"
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      08-21-2018, 02:07 PM   #176
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Finally got the dual oil cooler setup installed along with the ancillary ATF cooler. Desperately trying to find a better mounting spot for the tranny cooler but it's going to live in front of the FMIC for now.
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