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      10-21-2019, 03:11 AM   #221
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And here are 2 awful pics... Also replaced most of my oil cooler lines with steel braded lines, after this year I'm going to replace nearly all hoses and sensors on the car....

My vanos, crankshaft sensor & blown oil line ruined my first 2 events of 2019

Cannot wait for the E82 DCT swap & M3 rack - hopefully one car the rear 1M fender swap - these et58 offset wheels are killin me

FYI - zipties are just for test fitting cooler mounts lol
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      02-16-2020, 02:47 PM   #222
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I was curious about how you felt about how the car rotates with the front being wider than the rear? Like how in line are the tires? Just bought a 135i and plan on the same front end swap but don’t want to spend the $ to cut up the rear. Why do you feel “ these et58 offset wheels are killin me”? Thanks!
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      02-16-2020, 02:51 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bensonline View Post
I was curious about how you felt about how the car rotates with the front being wider than the rear? Like how in line are the tires? Just bought a 135i and plan on the same front end swap but don't want to spend the $ to cut up the rear. Why do you feel " these et58 offset wheels are killin me"? Thanks!
Love this build!
The front isn't really wider than the front, it's the same hub setup from a regular 135i.

I just dislike the insane rear offsets required without wider rear fenders.
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      02-16-2020, 05:12 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
The front isn't really wider than the front, it's the same hub setup from a regular 135i.

I just dislike the insane rear offsets required without wider rear fenders.
So you’re just wanting more of a concave look or is the offset changing the driving dynamics? I’d like to run the 1m Setup out front and flare/roll the rear to run a 18x9.5 35et squared setup. I could change the hubs out back if I had to but I rather not.
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      02-16-2020, 06:18 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bensonline View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
The front isn't really wider than the front, it's the same hub setup from a regular 135i.

I just dislike the insane rear offsets required without wider rear fenders.
So you’re just wanting more of a concave look or is the offset changing the driving dynamics? I’d like to run the 1m Setup out front and flare/roll the rear to run a 18x9.5 35et squared setup. I could change the hubs out back if I had to but I rather not.
That would be ideal. Planning to do the same on the rear of my car soon.
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      02-17-2020, 12:35 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
The front isn't really wider than the front, it's the same hub setup from a regular 135i.

I just dislike the insane rear offsets required without wider rear fenders.
You are probably aware, but you can also swap in the E9X hubs - they are completely interchangeable, but are 10mm inboard per side. It makes it WAY easier to rotate a square wheel/tire setup front to back without needing like 20mm+ front spacers.

Edit - I just saw the "or I can change the hubs" comment on the last post... my bad.

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      02-17-2020, 03:10 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
You are probably aware, but you can also swap in the E9X hubs - they are completely interchangeable, but are 10mm inboard per side. It makes it WAY easier to rotate a square wheel/tire setup front to back without needing like 20mm+ front spacers.

Edit - I just saw the "or I can change the hubs" comment on the last post... my bad.

-Mark
What about E9x M3 hubs/knuckles? Wonder if they're interchangeable too, while still keeping the non-m subframe/diff/axles.
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      02-17-2020, 10:49 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berns View Post
What about E9x M3 hubs/knuckles? Wonder if they're interchangeable too, while still keeping the non-m subframe/diff/axles.
Just looking at RealOEM's drawings, the 135i and 1M(same P/N as M3) knuckles are identical, but they do have different part numbers.
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      02-18-2020, 09:00 AM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berns View Post
What about E9x M3 hubs/knuckles? Wonder if they're interchangeable too, while still keeping the non-m subframe/diff/axles.
I pulled up photos on ECS and was surprised how different they are though both the 135i and M coupe use the same collar nut, clip, and bearing but use a different output flange. The suspension pick-up point look to be in very different positions. Check out the lengths of the bosses holding the trailing arm bushing and toe arm. Also note the relative position of the sway bar mount to the toe arm.

Maybe the M knuckle with 135i 33416771082 or 330i/335i 33416760058 drive flanges and 33207580945/46 or 33207568730/31 axles depending on the pumpkin, but it's hard to tell from the photos if the M knuckles poke out more (or less) and would require a longer (or shorter) drive axles.

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      02-18-2020, 10:44 AM   #230
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Are you guys talking about front or rear? I think LCI E90, E82, and E92 M3 all share the WIDER rear track width and you can convert to the old (pre-lci) e90 hubs to gain ~8-10mm clearance to the fenders (narrower rear track width). Maybe there are more asterisks/exceptions attached to that statement though as I see some ppl saying 4mm per side for some cars? Old style rear e90 spindles are somewhat plug and play.

Rear hub swap parts (per this thread: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...75919&page=4):
2x E91 Performance Rotors (Dimpled and Slotted) 324x22
2x e9x Rear Hub PN: 33416760058**
2x Rear Wheel Bearing - PN 33416775842
2x Axle Nut - PN 33411133785

I really don't see why anyone would waste their time doing this "mod" though as the rear fenders are still your limiting factor and all you are achieving is the same thing a higher offset wheel does. Net scrub radius stays exactly the same. The only real advantage here is that you open up wheel fitments by 10mm lower offsets and open up caliper fitment by a hair when using wheels that have a tapered barrel like stock wheels do. Not significant enough of a change in either regard to warrant all this work. They make plenty of 1-series specific fitment wheels with high offsets. OP has the 1M front-end and stock rear-end so this mod is no benefit to him. He needs rear flares so that he can widen the rear track width back up to match the front.

The rear E92 M3 spindles are NOT exactly p&p. I don't know exactly what you would need BUT You would need complete spindles, down to the calipers and e-brake equipment all from the M3. Not exactly a big deal since they can be had for cheap as complete spindles. What would you gain by moving to the E92 M3 rear spindles? Not much. The axles are different (bigger). The calipers are and rotors are larger but also much more expensive and heavier! Suspension kinematics are slightly different for sure as well (M3 rear toe arm has slightly different pickup point on both the spindle and the subframe). If you get the M3 lower camber arms then you also get the benefit of the M3 style rear strut mount. Just changing to M3 spindles wouldn't really be worth it imo. Go for the entire rear end as the subframe, diff, axels, and strut mounting is the real benefit out back.

On the front, I do not think there is any difference in the offsets of any of the spindles. There is no doubt though that the 1M/M3 spindles are NOT the same and they are NOT plug and play without other components. The front struts mount differently and the tie rod mounts in a significantly different place on the M3, hence why the 135i needs to change it's inner tie rods when using the E92 M3 steering rack. This likely changes bump steer characteristics but not sure how exactly. The multi-link suspension BMW uses makes it difficult to speculate. Even the previous E46 generation suspension was much more simple. I would still like to map out the pickup points in wingeo or something but I never got "before" measurements to compare to so all I'd be able to do at this point is plot the M3 suspension kinematics. E92 M3 front spindles would also obviously require the M3/1M calipers and rotors (larger caliper bolt pattern). They have larger pistons, yes, but also heavier by several lbs and MUCH more expensive. E92 M3 rotors go for ~250/piece ($1000 all around). E82 BMW performance rotors can be had for like $350 all around. I imagine the lighter mass, fixed calipers, large aluminum heat sinks, greater piston count, and larger brake pads that the 135i comes with help offset to some degree the fact that the rotors and pistons are smaller. Real world performance, in terms of braking, is likely much more equal than these forums speculate and I'd give the "feel" advantage to the 135i by far. I can update you on that soon as I already have the E92 M3 rear-end and I am now installing the E92 M3 front pieces. Spindles, brakes, struts, etc. I speculate a lot of placebo affect in terms of braking... mushy pedal with a much more "on/off" feeling which will lead me to believe the brake are better but reality is they are just harder to modulate and same or slightly better stopping distance. Depending on how they end up feeling, I may install the M3 master cylinder to gain back the loss in pedal feel. Overall, I don't anticipate much performance difference but My driver side wheel hub was bent so I decided to pull the trigger on completing the 1M swap as there are the aforementioned benefits.

Last edited by bbnks2; 02-18-2020 at 11:12 AM..
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      02-18-2020, 07:33 PM   #231
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The rear knuckles, and front knuckles are definitely different. Pickup points on both the knuckles and rear subframe are different too, for the M variant.

Wish I knew all of this at the start of my build, but not a huge deal. Sometime this year, if I keep the car, I'll do a full M rear subframe, diff, axles, hubs, knuckles, wheel bearings, and the front knuckles and bearings as well.

The geometry of the non-M stuff isn't ideal and I'm still fighting the car so much, and I think we all are at the limit. Look at all the spring rate threads, complaints of understeer, etc... Cars aren't supposed to be this hard to set up. The non-M e8x/e9x was never meant for the track.
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      02-18-2020, 08:18 PM   #232
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You should do it for sure. But forget about the M diff, that'll change the way the car drives a lot more for you.
Your dampers, springs already fit since I see you have the M lower camber arm already. Just need a sleeve for the front damper since MCS uses the same shafts for M and non-M.
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      02-25-2020, 08:59 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
And here are 2 awful pics... Also replaced most of my oil cooler lines with steel braded lines, after this year I'm going to replace nearly all hoses and sensors on the car....

My vanos, crankshaft sensor & blown oil line ruined my first 2 events of 2019
Uh oh, I'm about to do my dual 25 rows... What kind of oil lines did you have in there before and how did the lines fail?
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      02-25-2020, 09:08 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I am Jacks N54 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
And here are 2 awful pics... Also replaced most of my oil cooler lines with steel braded lines, after this year I'm going to replace nearly all hoses and sensors on the car....

My vanos, crankshaft sensor & blown oil line ruined my first 2 events of 2019
Uh oh, I'm about to do my dual 25 rows... What kind of oil lines did you have in there before and how did the lines fail?
I run all summit racing steel AN10 lines but it was a dumb mistake on my part and I left a short section of Dinan's oil cooler line from the previous owner (5+ year old line) which just burst in track, wasn't even rubbing on anything.

You shouldn't have any issues, just use vibrant or other high quality compression fittings and ensure you check for rubbing or sharp edges where you route the lines.

I wrap certain sections of the lines that may rub on body panels, etc in this high strength fabric (it's the stuff fire department hoses are made of) and haven't had issues since.

Just check your fittings after a few heat cycles and ensure they're not loose or seeping
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      02-26-2020, 06:34 AM   #235
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Using Vibrant PTFE lines and fittings. Good looking out.
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      04-10-2020, 11:51 AM   #236
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Hey, I've seen your car around the local tracks. (I'm the one with the ghetto M240iR).

Do you happen to have dimensions of the 1er sunroof? No-one makes sunroof delete panels for F-series, so trying to figure out how hard it would be to shoehorn an E82 panel there...
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      01-20-2021, 10:29 AM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
Finally got the dual oil cooler setup installed along with the ancillary ATF cooler. Desperately trying to find a better mounting spot for the tranny cooler but it's going to live in front of the FMIC for now.
spxxx do you have more pictures on the mounting of your 2 25row coolers?
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      01-21-2021, 01:58 PM   #238
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Originally Posted by msendit View Post
Hey, I've seen your car around the local tracks. (I'm the one with the ghetto M240iR).

Do you happen to have dimensions of the 1er sunroof? No-one makes sunroof delete panels for F-series, so trying to figure out how hard it would be to shoehorn an E82 panel there...
Sorry been MIA from the forums for a bit with a newborn at home. I'll measure that for you this afternoon though!

Your car is sweet, if I wasn't building an E92 M3 I think the M240 chassis would be my second choice in the M world.
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      01-21-2021, 01:59 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st-pierre View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
Finally got the dual oil cooler setup installed along with the ancillary ATF cooler. Desperately trying to find a better mounting spot for the tranny cooler but it's going to live in front of the FMIC for now.
spxxx do you have more pictures on the mounting of your 2 25row coolers?
Yep! I'll dig some up for you. I recently changed the brackets to mount to more sturdy OEM spots recently so I'll try to snap some new pics when I have a chance.
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      04-18-2021, 08:09 PM   #240
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What air dam were you using before you did the 1M front end conversion?
And how did that fit with the splitter you made?

Thanks
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      06-25-2021, 11:19 PM   #241
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So, it looks like my DCT temps are too high now that I am pushing the car with the PS2 turbo. This is also causing coolant temps to go up. I noticed you added a hefty trans cooler. I presume you put in in series with the factory one? If so, before or after? I presume before so that it pre-cools before hitting the coolant?

It looks like there is room for a PS cooler sized cooler below the actual PS cooler so I am thinking of getting a junk one off ebay and trying to fit it up. Any advice appreciated.
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      07-14-2021, 12:12 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwroz21 View Post
What air dam were you using before you did the 1M front end conversion?
And how did that fit with the splitter you made?

Thanks
I ran a custom dibond splitter with expanding foam and gafferse tape as an air dam haha. The current eBay air dam has held up well with the 1/4 Alumalite splitter for the last 2 years (think I've gone through 2 of them after hitting a cone at ThunderHill at 100mph lol). I haven't raced in any GTA events so I built this newest splitter to run past the front axle and the difference is really noticeable, it's also a full 5" which is pretty big for an HPDE car
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