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      09-23-2021, 06:39 AM   #1
Phloozy
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How is your tire wear?

I have been tracking my 128 for 2 years now and I am consistently having issues cording/chunking tires. I keep trying different things/tires thinking that will solve it but not matter what by around 18 heat cycles my tires are shot. I have corded 3 sets of Yokohama A052s in ~13 HC, a set of Maxxis RC1 in ~19 HC and now a set of Hoosiers R7s in 18 HC.

I have 4 degrees of front camber and ~2.5 degrees in the rear. Is this just a 1 series issue or something wrong with me/car? Are people seeing similar issues with the chassis or do i need to explore other things? It is getting frustrating and expensive :P
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      09-23-2021, 06:51 AM   #2
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Lots of factors at play here. To verify your camber settings, get a pyrometer and a friend in the hot pits to help you take hot tire temps across the tread. I'd guess you need another 0.5-1 degree in the rear. That Hoosier certainly looks like lack of camber.

Just some other things to consider:
-alignment
-tire rubbing in the fenders somewhere
-hot/cold pressures
-driving style (do you toss it in corners hard or are you smooth with inputs?)
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      09-23-2021, 06:55 AM   #3
Phloozy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
Lots of factors at play here. To verify your camber settings, get a pyrometer and a friend in the hot pits to help you take hot tire temps across the tread. I'd guess you need another 0.5-1 degree in the rear. That Hoosier certainly looks like lack of camber.

Just some other things to consider:
-alignment
-tire rubbing in the fenders somewhere
-hot/cold pressures
-driving style (do you toss it in corners hard or are you smooth with inputs?)
You arent wrong on all accounts so good to hear. I do think the hoosier cording is part from hitting the fender/bumper tab, im going to trim that and try again. My other tires were always cording in the rear and I am aggressive/have a bit of a heavy foot. Can these cars get more than 2.5 in the rear though? My alignment guy says the eccentric maxed out at 2.5 but maybe there are other tricks? I would love 3 degrees in the rear so any tips on what I can do is appreciated.
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      09-23-2021, 07:04 AM   #4
hoki06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phloozy View Post
You arent wrong on all accounts so good to hear. I do think the hoosier cording is part from hitting the fender/bumper tab, im going to trim that and try again. My other tires were always cording in the rear and I am aggressive/have a bit of a heavy foot. Can these cars get more than 2.5 in the rear though? My alignment guy says the eccentric maxed out at 2.5 but maybe there are other tricks? I would love 3 degrees in the rear so any tips on what I can do is appreciated.
Sounds like you've got some good ideas. Trim that bumper tab and then see if you can smooth out inputs. The Hoosiers operate well at low slip angles so tossing it in hard is not the best method and will increase wear. Smooth is fast.

As for adding camber in the rear on these cars, I don't have any experience there. All of my racing days were in an E36 M3. I'm assuming someone like SPL makes some adjustable rear arms to help dial in more camber.
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      09-23-2021, 08:17 AM   #5
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Can you get more caster up front? Look like you need more negative camber based on that outside wear. I don't know if you have adjustability to add more static camber, otherwise the next step would be to add some caster to gain some dynamic camber under load which should help.
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      09-23-2021, 08:56 AM   #6
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18 heat cycles seems like plenty to me given the car weighs 2900 lbs. What are you trying to compare to?
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      09-24-2021, 01:46 PM   #7
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I run 3.5 degrees front, 2.5 rear with no toe in the front and have never had an issue like this. Never run slicks but 200TWs always seem to do really good on my car.
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      09-25-2021, 10:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
I run 3.5 degrees front, 2.5 rear with no toe in the front and have never had an issue like this. Never run slicks but 200TWs always seem to do really good on my car.
Good to know, I think I may have a rubbing issue I need lol address along with a heavy foot
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      09-25-2021, 12:28 PM   #9
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Do you take tire temps and pressures while at the track? As mentioned above, it is best to have someone help take temps and pressures after you have just come off the track so you can have at least some idea of what the tire is doing. I have never run the tires you have (AO52s, RC-1s, or R7s), but I have never had a set wear or chunk off like what you are describing. At 4 degrees camber front, and 2.5 degrees camber rear, I don't think it is a camber issue. As hoki06 suggested, check your alignment specs first. You know what the camber is, but what about toe and caster? Once you get that checked off the list, check the fenders and wheel wells for signs of rubbing. Try and address the fender/wheel well issue if possible. Then, when at the track, if you aren't already, get in the habit of at least taking pressures and temps before you go out and immediately when you get back in the pits. Best practice is to do it during the session, but I get that can be hard sometimes, especially without any help. When you go out on track, how soon do you start pushing the car?
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      09-27-2021, 04:16 AM   #10
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What are your front and rear spring rates and sway bars?
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      10-12-2021, 12:25 PM   #11
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-4 degrees on that hoosier I would be looking at too low a tire pressure, what does pyro say? should be around 40psi hot
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      10-12-2021, 12:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imported_mega View Post
-4 degrees on that hoosier I would be looking at too low a tire pressure, what does pyro say? should be around 40psi hot
about 37psi hot. I was doing 28psi cold pressures. I will take better readings this weekend. I also think the tires may have been getting cut on the fender tab and I have since trimmed that so hopefully that helps. I can try running the pressures a bit higher.
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      10-13-2021, 04:24 PM   #13
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Spring. Rates. Increase them, a lot.
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      10-14-2021, 05:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
Spring. Rates. Increase them, a lot.
Haha I'm already pretty damn stiff. 650f/1100r
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      10-14-2021, 12:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phloozy View Post
Haha I'm already pretty damn stiff. 650f/1100r
What is the front toe set to? Maybe control arm bushing is shot? M3 control arms up front?

To be fair I don't think I have ever seen a BMW with good wear across the entire face of the tire lol. In the rear you eat the inside shoulder (acceleration) and in the front you will always end up eating the outside shoulder (from the cornering forces). Rotating front to back helps "even" that out and I usually always end up with 2/32" left on the center tread when both the inside and outside edges are corded.
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      10-17-2021, 02:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phloozy View Post
a set of Hoosiers R7s in 18 HC. :P
18 heat cycles from a set of R7 is impressive. I think my Hoosiers on a Type-R race car would last 5-6HC or 2-3 hours rotating F-R axles. OTOH, my Toyo RA1 would last forever; since they were non-directional tires, I could flipp them on the rim so that the inside shoulder was on the outside and visa versa.

Have you tried another tire in the TW200 rating. I'm thinking about using the RT660 as they are a non-directional design and seem to have reasonable tire life.

Tire life still looks good after 20 sessions on this E36.


Also stickier than the A052 that you were using.
https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/t...en-rt660-tire/
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      10-17-2021, 02:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
Lots of factors at play here. To verify your camber settings, get a pyrometer and a friend in the hot pits to help you take hot tire temps across the tread. I'd guess you need another 0.5-1 degree in the rear. That Hoosier certainly looks like lack of camber.

Just some other things to consider:
-alignment
-tire rubbing in the fenders somewhere
-hot/cold pressures
-driving style (do you toss it in corners hard or are you smooth with inputs?)
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      10-19-2021, 12:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PcarDefector View Post
18 heat cycles from a set of R7 is impressive. I think my Hoosiers on a Type-R race car would last 5-6HC or 2-3 hours rotating F-R axles. OTOH, my Toyo RA1 would last forever; since they were non-directional tires, I could flipp them on the rim so that the inside shoulder was on the outside and visa versa.

Have you tried another tire in the TW200 rating. I'm thinking about using the RT660 as they are a non-directional design and seem to have reasonable tire life.

Tire life still looks good after 20 sessions on this E36.

Also stickier than the A052 that you were using.
https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/t...en-rt660-tire/
The 660 is an amazing tire for me so far, for how fast it is and how good it feels the wear is excellent. That said, there is absolutely no way it has the raw pace in a time-trial type setting that the A052 does.
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