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      02-28-2021, 11:06 AM   #23
Rallysmurf
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Let's talk wheels.

First off et47 is 128i. that has the wheel/tire to close to the strut to fit long Travel coil over spring. So I need to move the new 15" wheel outboard as much as I can even if it involves rolling the fenders.

I went with style 31 et20 older but light 15lb e39 528i wheels. Rally tires are narrower 195/205 so that helps also.

Also with a lift I can add static camber so when I'm bottomed out they will tuck under better.... I hope.

All this is really a requirement. I HAVE TO use 15" and et20/25 Area.

http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/31
Found this page super helpful to pick them out. Got all 4 off eBay for $250.
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      03-01-2021, 06:57 AM   #24
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Thinking about it a little more i think you’ll be right on the edge at stock height, so probably ok lifted a little. I can fit my 17x8 ET43 wheels with a 5mm spacer (effective ET38) and 245’s on the front. That puts 63.6mm of wheel towards the fender, you’d be at 68.9mm with a significantly narrower tire. I think that should work, maybe with a roll.
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      03-01-2021, 12:38 PM   #25
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Man I'm pumped on this thread! I worked with a Canadian Rally Championship team building their car and crewed the following year back in 2011-2012 (pic below).

I've got a couple ideas for you:

Rear Springs
As a suggestion, you could try reaching out to a coilover company for just a set of rear spring adjusters and then order the 2.5" or whatever size and rate spring you want. Add a helper spring for droop travel, and/or limiting straps.

Front wheel clearance
One of the area identified in the 15" wheel thread you posted is the tie rod end interfering. Depending on ride height etc, you could use a TRE kit with a heim joint and change the stack. Put the taper adapter on the bottom and mount the heim above the knuckle. It would improve the clearance for 15" wheels and also likely improve the suspension geometry. Although it might interfere with the from sway bar, so you'll have to cycle the suspension...

FE1RX wrote a good thread about the geometry, so that might help with the bumpsteer thought above. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1604010

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      03-01-2021, 03:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
Let's talk wheels.

First off et47 is 128i. that has the wheel/tire to close to the strut to fit long Travel coil over spring. So I need to move the new 15" wheel outboard as much as I can even if it involves rolling the fenders.

I went with style 31 et20 older but light 15lb e39 528i wheels. Rally tires are narrower 195/205 so that helps also.

Also with a lift I can add static camber so when I'm bottomed out they will tuck under better.... I hope.

All this is really a requirement. I HAVE TO use 15" and et20/25 Area.


Found this page super helpful to pick them out. Got all 4 off eBay for $250.
Style 31 are awesome wheels, lose the center caps and they look way better. E36 compact cup cars run them over in the UK.

I had a set of 15x8 ET20 TRM C1 that I used on my 318ti for a few years. They were light and could clear 300mm front rotors. Not the same as the 128 knuckle geometry but could be a lead on a decent wheel option. That size was sold for E30 M3 back in the day.
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      03-01-2021, 03:40 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_hatter View Post
Man I'm pumped on this thread! I worked with a Canadian Rally Championship team building their car and crewed the following year back in 2011-2012 (pic below).



[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/7420/9...1672ef07_b.jpg[/img]
Thanks I'm pumped also!
All this hardware stuff is easy. When the electrical coding comes in I'll have my hands full.

Yeah eventually I'll just run coil overs on my Porsche shocks if they work out. I'll need to buy an offset shock top to get the springs away from the body but that's when I cage it and can brace the shock tops correctly.

Yeah I've been all through about every thread he had posted. Quite an asset to the group here. That is one of the reasons I posed a bold thread here instead of grassroots or another rally forum.

Thanks
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      03-01-2021, 07:56 PM   #28
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What are you planning to do coding wise other than get rid of the “nannies?”
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      03-01-2021, 08:28 PM   #29
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What are you planning to do coding wise other than get rid of the “nannies?”
I've actually have some crazy hardware relocation ideas and some coding as I will be getting a progressive LSD.

I want to get a feel for it on gravel after the suspension is in to really see what's needed.
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      03-02-2021, 02:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
I've actually have some crazy hardware relocation ideas and some coding as I will be getting a progressive LSD.

I want to get a feel for it on gravel after the suspension is in to really see what's needed.
It's just my $0.02 but I would completely code out the ABS and e-diff once the LSD is installed. Nothing worse than the car fighting you while you're trying to drive.

Last edited by mad_hatter; 03-03-2021 at 09:27 AM.. Reason: typos
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      03-02-2021, 06:00 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_hatter View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
I've actually have some crazy hardware relocation ideas and some coding as I will be getting a progressive LSD.

I want to get a feel for it on gravel after the suspension is in to really see what's needed.
It's just my $0.02 but I would completely code out the ABS and e-diff once the LSD is installed. Nothing worse than trying the car fighting you while you're trying to drive.
When you code out is it really gone or would it still pop up with hard counter steering?
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      03-02-2021, 06:26 PM   #32
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It’s gone gone.
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      03-03-2021, 09:35 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
When you code out is it really gone or would it still pop up with hard counter steering?
E-diff for sure gets fully coded out, lots of threads about members doing that when they install a mechanical diff. ABS and T/C I'm not sure about. The counter-steering out of corners would be a T/C thing, some methods the ABS solenoids to brakes wheels to straighten the car out (I'm not sure which is in the 1er).
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      03-03-2021, 12:32 PM   #34
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Thumbs up

This thread is so awesome! Where in New Mexico are you located? im in Albuquerque! i hope to see your build someday!
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      03-03-2021, 03:06 PM   #35
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This thread is so awesome! Where in New Mexico are you located? im in Albuquerque! i hope to see your build someday!
I'm in mora county. Yeah I might get done for a car's coffee and a autoX the same weekend.

Any rally interest down there? RallyX ?
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      03-04-2021, 05:15 PM   #36
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Got one side of the http://www.born2drift.co.uk spherical steel rod arms on.

I put bolts through what come off and into the new arms. Measuring bolt parts to match them to length. Not a hitch. Fit perfectly.

Tried the style 31 5series 15" rims on the back.
Et20. Clears the brakes fine getting 205/65 tires mounted tomorrow.

Ive been making IG stories as I go along if you are on there I'm ZIARALLY.

Oh also cut the ends off that wimpy rear swaybar! Pulled it through and out. Rally
Cars don't run any swaybars on gravel.
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      03-07-2021, 09:44 AM   #37
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Got the 15" style 31 et20 wheels on.

Rear no mod required.

Front had to grind down the outside edges of the calipers and a little on rod ends. Also have to remove cone washer so the rod end goes deeper into the knuckle away from the rim.

Little far out with 205 65 winterforce tires. Rally 195 65 have a square profile I think I'll
Be fine with them.

Front might need camber bushings the opposite way to pull the lower arm inboard.
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      03-10-2021, 01:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
Got the 15" style 31 et20 wheels on.

Rear no mod required.

Front had to grind down the outside edges of the calipers and a little on rod ends. Also have to remove cone washer so the rod end goes deeper into the knuckle away from the rim.

Little far out with 205 65 winterforce tires. Rally 195 65 have a square profile I think I'll
Be fine with them.

Front might need camber bushings the opposite way to pull the lower arm inboard.
https://whitelineperformance.com/pro...-lower-bushing

That's the cheapest option I could find when I was looking.
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      03-10-2021, 06:43 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_hatter View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
Got the 15" style 31 et20 wheels on.

Rear no mod required.

Front had to grind down the outside edges of the calipers and a little on rod ends. Also have to remove cone washer so the rod end goes deeper into the knuckle away from the rim.

Little far out with 205 65 winterforce tires. Rally 195 65 have a square profile I think I'll
Be fine with them.

Front might need camber bushings the opposite way to pull the lower arm inboard.
https://whitelineperformance.com/pro...-lower-bushing

That's the cheapest option I could find when I was looking.
Powerflex has 1.5° but only for the F cars. I'll keep looking around.

I sure appreciate the cheapest option. I just think that it's possible with as big as the bushing is to get more inboard. I was hoping 1".

Might have to go spherical arm here also to turn buckle it off in.

Tire was rubbing pretty harsh at bottom out on today's test drive.
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      03-11-2021, 10:32 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
Powerflex has 1.5° but only for the F cars. I'll keep looking around.

I sure appreciate the cheapest option. I just think that it's possible with as big as the bushing is to get more inboard. I was hoping 1".

Might have to go spherical arm here also to turn buckle it off in.

Tire was rubbing pretty harsh at bottom out on today's test drive.
There's also this, it's the bushing I'm using for my STX build. It's not cheap - I'll send you a DM with deets.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1789500
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      03-16-2021, 07:58 PM   #41
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Have you put the arms on the other side yet?
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      03-16-2021, 09:56 PM   #42
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Have you put the arms on the other side yet?
Waiting for some shock parts then I will do it all together. Large body Porsche hd bilsteins, m3 lower arms and x1 springs.
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      03-17-2021, 09:46 AM   #43
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I'm ready to buy a LSD disc 1.5 way
I want to be sure it will fit.

I have a 2008 128i manual.
I wanted the 3.7 r&p so I also have an auto from a 2013 with only 28k, It's 10 bolted.

What can I ask the seller so he can measure to make sure it will fit. I'm ok with grinding the pumpkin if I need to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/111809882552

This listing has them all the same internals.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-1-3-SER....m46890.l49292
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      03-17-2021, 02:48 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
I'm ready to buy a LSD disc 1.5 way
I want to be sure it will fit.

I have a 2008 128i manual.
I wanted the 3.7 r&p so I also have an auto from a 2013 with only 28k, It's 10 bolted.

What can I ask the seller so he can measure to make sure it will fit. I'm ok with grinding the pumpkin if I need to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/111809882552

This listing has them all the same internals.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-1-3-SER....m46890.l49292
The ad says the maker of the diff is 3J Drivelines out of the UK. Maybe they can help if the ebay seller isn't sure?
https://www.3jdriveline.com/differen...-applications/

Based on my own research, it should fit - from the application notes on Diffsonline wavetrack fitment:
https://diffsonline.com/wavetrac-for...l#.YFJbA51KiHs
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