Rear Subframe Bushing Tool

[minirips2]

I'm looking for a tool to replace the stock subframe bushings on my 128i Coupe with M3 bushings with the subframe still installed in the car. What tools are available for this, how successful are they, and how expensive are they?
Just looking at options, and I'd like to know if anyone has successfully replaced the bushings with the frame in place without getting medieval on the thing.
The best deal I've seen is the HPA tool which you can rent, but if it means pulling the subframe out, I'd rather look elsewhere.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by minirips2

The best deal I've seen is the HPA tool which you can rent, but if it means pulling the subframe out, I'd rather look elsewhere.

That does seem to be the best deal.

If you don't want to pull the subframe you need to look at inserts. Not much way around it.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by minirips2

I'm looking for a tool to replace the stock subframe bushings on my 128i Coupe with M3 bushings with the subframe still installed in the car. What tools are available for this, how successful are they, and how expensive are they?
Just looking at options, and I'd like to know if anyone has successfully replaced the bushings with the frame in place without getting medieval on the thing.
The best deal I've seen is the HPA tool which you can rent, but if it means pulling the subframe out, I'd rather look elsewhere.

A big socket, a torch, and the weight of the car. By far the easiest way to do this job. $10 torch and $5 propane. Just put some tinfoil over the important stuff if you have bad aim LOL bushings slide right out...

[minirips2]

What about installation? I hear the M3 front bushings have to be installed from the top.

[dtla1]

Are you set on the M3 Bushings? You can do the Whiteline Full Bushing Replacements (not inserts) which are two pieces (plus the sleeve). These are much easier to install then the M3 Bushings.

[Thewind727]

I just replaced my rear subframe bushings with the whiteline 2 piece bushings and used the hp tool. very simple task i did it all without taking off any brake lines or anything this tool set is well worth the cost to save you alot of time!!!

I'll be shipping it back tomorrow so hit them up it will be available soon

[Thewind727]

Originally Posted by minirips2

I'm looking for a tool to replace the stock subframe bushings on my 128i Coupe with M3 bushings with the subframe still installed in the car. What tools are available for this, how successful are they, and how expensive are they?
Just looking at options, and I'd like to know if anyone has successfully replaced the bushings with the frame in place without getting medieval on the thing.
The best deal I've seen is the HPA tool which you can rent, but if it means pulling the subframe out, I'd rather look elsewhere.

See post above

[minirips2]

I already have the M3 bushings. I really prefer to go that route. I've had issues in the past with noisy urethane bushings, and I don't tolerate squeaks well. The issue I see is getting the RSF low enough to get the M3 front bushings in place and a puller on top of them. I'm finding out that the M3 bushings is no easy task, but I plan future suspension upgrades, and I want a solid foundation for those mods. I am frankly disappointed in the way the rear bump steers over undulating corners.

[Thewind727]

Ive heard zero noise from my whiteline full bushings they dont seem to be the typical insanly hard poly bushings, i doubt they will ever make any noise.

maybe someone how has been running them longer can chime in

[Thewind727]

[QUOTE=minirips2;22499995]I already have the M3 bushings. I really prefer to go that route. I've had issues in the past with noisy urethane bushings, and I don't tolerate squeaks well. The issue I see is getting the RSF low enough to get the M3 front bushings in place and a puller on top of them. I'm finding out that the M3 bushings is no easy task, but I plan future suspension upgrades, and I want a solid foundation for those mods. I am frankly disappointed in the way the rear bump steers over undulating corners.[/QUOTE

i think if you were careful you could probaly get it low enough to get the bushing in from the top and just use the cars weight to press it in.

[minirips2]

[QUOTE=Thewind727;22514652]

Originally Posted by minirips2

I already have the M3 bushings. I really prefer to go that route. I've had issues in the past with noisy urethane bushings, and I don't tolerate squeaks well. The issue I see is getting the RSF low enough to get the M3 front bushings in place and a puller on top of them. I'm finding out that the M3 bushings is no easy task, but I plan future suspension upgrades, and I want a solid foundation for those mods. I am frankly disappointed in the way the rear bump steers over undulating corners.[/QUOTE

i think if you were careful you could probaly get it low enough to get the bushing in from the top and just use the cars weight to press it in.

It's worth a try, thanks! I just hope I can get the frame low enough without removing brake lines, e-brake cables, etc.

[Thewind727]

[QUOTE=minirips2;22515614]

Originally Posted by Thewind727

It's worth a try, thanks! I just hope I can get the frame low enough without removing brake lines, e-brake cables, etc.

how tall are the bushing i can probably tell you if they will go in, ill be under my car later doing the lsd so i can get some measurments

[fe1rx]

[QUOTE=minirips2;22515614]

Originally Posted by Thewind727

It's worth a try, thanks! I just hope I can get the frame low enough without removing brake lines, e-brake cables, etc.

The brake hoses connecting the rear subframe to body must be disconnected. This is no big deal. If you keep the brake pedal held down with a stick, brake fluid will not leak out of the broken connection. You will need to bleed the rear brakes after you reconnect them because a bit of air will get into the lines.

[juld0zer]

I've had the Whiteline full bushings in for almost a year now. No issues. I sometimes forget they are there!

[Thewind727]

[QUOTE=fe1rx;22516372]

Originally Posted by minirips2

The brake hoses connecting the rear subframe to body must be disconnected. This is no big deal. If you keep the brake pedal held down with a stick, brake fluid will not leak out of the broken connection. You will need to bleed the rear brakes after you reconnect them because a bit of air will get into the lines.

Is this a m3 bushing specific thing because i did not have to remove mine to do the whitlines< just trying to educate myself

[juld0zer]

Yes. There is a good guide here somewhere or on the E90 forum.

I disconnected mine when doing the Whitelines but i had the BMW tools to remove the old bushings. If you do it without the special tools then you could possibly get away without disconnecting the lines.

But it's one of those things where you spend 20 extra minutes to disconnect, reconnect and pressure bleed the rear circuit (assuming you held the brake pedal down with a jack stand and it didn't fall off the pedal during your job). But that 20 extra minutes give you so much more room, less swearing and frustration and injury.

[vtl]

I DIYed it with a tool I made myself (see last posts for updated version of the tool I made)

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1158856

[minirips2]

Nice job on that tool, vtl. I'm having a local indy shop have a go at it, and he's been trying a few different methods, but not having success. The issue is that the front bushings need to be pulled out by the lip on them, which seems pretty flimsy. Come to think of it, the entire bushing is flimsy. My plan is to buy the admittedly expensive correct tool for the bushings, then sell it when I'm done. It's still way cheaper than having someone pull out the subframe. If I were going to do it over, I'd go with the split urethane bushings for ease of installation. Disconnecting the brake lines is not a big deal, though, because I have a pair of braided stainless hoses I want to get in there. Killing two birds with one stone, if you will....