First Hand Impressions Needed: TC Kline S/A vs Ohlins R&T vs ST XTA

[houtan]

Thanks. I am running the dinan plates and m3 bits myself with swift/ bilstein b8s.

My question (which I realize now was poorly worded) was specifically regarding running the factory mount/ dinan plate combo with the tc coilovers the op has purchased, which do not use the beehive spring. It appears per the website that using the factory mount is not possible.

[E82MSport]

Originally Posted by houtan

Thanks. I am running the dinan plates and m3 bits myself with swift/ bilstein b8s.

My question (which I realize now was poorly worded) was specifically regarding running the factory mount/ dinan plate combo with the tc coilovers the op has purchased, which do not use the beehive spring. It appears per the website that using the factory mount is not possible.

Most coilovers (not all) are designed to to work with the factory mount first. In the case of the TCK SA there's a drop down that allows you to purchase without camber plates and would give you the correct upper to be used with the factory mount.

I assume we are looking at the same one's?
http://www.tcklineracing.com/index.c...&Calculate=Yes

[houtan]

Ahhhhhhh. I thought the option to remove them was because the prospective buyer had their own camber plates. I didn't realize the struts would come with a different upper if you removed the camber plates from the order. Thanks!!

[houtan]

So I called tc kline to understand the difference between the uppers (their customer service is top notch btw) He said the upper is the same either way and but there is a way to mount the upper strut mount or a portion of it like the bearing which would allow use of the stock upper (I didn't fully understand the process).

Shock or anyone else, have you tried to mount the stock strut top to your coilovers? if so, is there anything special that needs to be done?

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by houtan

So I called tc kline to understand the difference between the uppers (their customer service is top notch btw) He said the upper is the same either way and but there is a way to mount the upper strut mount or a portion of it like the bearing which would allow use of the stock upper (I didn't fully understand the process).

Shock or anyone else, have you tried to mount the stock strut top to your coilovers? if so, is there anything special that needs to be done?

They do work with the stock top hat. I have a new set on order. Gonna slap some dinan plates on there as well. Unfortunately schedule is super tight ATM and no idea when I'll be doing the install.

[houtan]

Thanks to OP for starting the thread and everyone's comments.

Decided to go with TC klines as well and placed my order through Harold at HPA. Big props to Harold by the way, he is extremely knowledgeable and he answered all of my questions over the course of a couple of weeks. The level of customer service he provides is hard to come by these days.

I went with 350/600 spring rates per Harold's recommendations. I am switching to the m3 rear lower camber arms so I ordered the m3 shocks. Got the arms for cheap off of eBay ($170 shipped) and there is no additional costs to get the kit with the m3 shock, so i said screw it. probably won't make a difference performance wise, but i like the way they look haha. i'm planning on reusing dinan camber plates up front as well.

looking forward to getting everything and installing.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by houtan

Thanks to OP for starting the thread and everyone's comments.

Decided to go with TC klines as well and placed my order through Harold at HPA. Big props to Harold by the way, he is extremely knowledgeable and he answered all of my questions over the course of a couple of weeks. The level of customer service he provides is hard to come by these days.

I went with 350/600 spring rates per Harold's recommendations. I am switching to the m3 rear lower camber arms so I ordered the m3 shocks. Got the arms for cheap off of eBay ($170 shipped) and there is no additional costs to get the kit with the m3 shock, so i said screw it. probably won't make a difference performance wise, but i like the way they look haha. i'm planning on reusing dinan camber plates up front as well.

looking forward to getting everything and installing.

Glad you got it worked out buddy. Can't wait to hear your impressions. I'm placing the order for the rest of my parts this weekend. Finally.

On another note, I think I may get a schwaben top nut tool and a better set of coil compressors.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Glad you got it worked out buddy. Can't wait to hear your impressions. I'm placing the order for the rest of my parts this weekend. Finally.

On another note, I think I may get a schwaben top nut tool and a better set of coil compressors.

Awesome.

Top nut tool will make it much easier. I got a set of the craftsman max access sockets and an extended length hex bit set from harbor freight (like this i think: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38...set-67890.html). Made life way easier. The schwaben top nut tool will do the same thing, but probably way more cost effective.

How come you need a spring compressor? The front springs on the swifts barely had any compression on them when i installed them. I was able to push down on the strut top mount to show just enough threads to get the nut started.

I am just going to remove the struts and open them up on a table to the top hats off. Once the nuts on the sub frame side of the tension strut and wishbone are loosened, turn the rotor toward the opposite of the car and there will be just enough clearance to remove the strut. ECS coilover install video does a good job of showing how to do it.

looking forward to hearing your impressions as well.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by houtan

Awesome.

Top nut tool will make it much easier. I got a set of the craftsman max access sockets and an extended length hex bit set from harbor freight (like this i think: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38...set-67890.html). Made life way easier. The schwaben top nut tool will do the same thing, but probably way more cost effective.

How come you need a spring compressor? The front springs on the swifts barely had any compression on them when i installed them. I was able to push down on the strut top mount to show just enough threads to get the nut started.

I am just going to remove the struts and open them up on a table to the top hats off. Once the nuts on the sub frame side of the tension strut and wishbone are loosened, turn the rotor toward the opposite of the car and there will be just enough clearance to remove the strut. ECS coilover install video does a good job of showing how to do it.

looking forward to hearing your impressions as well.

Yeah, thought about doing the pass through kit, but just don't need another ratchet setup. Will be cheaper for me to just bite the cost of the top nut tool (assuming it fits the TCKs).

As for the compressor, I actually needed to compress my billie/swifts to get them in. Not sure if they'll need to be compressed to get them out of the car, but I ALWAYS ALWAYS feel better taking a shock apart if the spring is properly compressed. Had one snap apart like a gunshot on me once before, never again. Scared probably 10 years off my life LOL.

Was considering this one for all the infrequent use it would get: http://www.harborfreight.com/single-...sor-43753.html

[houtan]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Yeah, thought about doing the pass through kit, but just don't need another ratchet setup. Will be cheaper for me to just bite the cost of the top nut tool (assuming it fits the TCKs).

As for the compressor, I actually needed to compress my billie/swifts to get them in. Not sure if they'll need to be compressed to get them out of the car, but I ALWAYS ALWAYS feel better taking a shock apart if the spring is properly compressed. Had one snap apart like a gunshot on me once before, never again. Scared probably 10 years off my life LOL.

Was considering this one for all the infrequent use it would get: http://www.harborfreight.com/single-...sor-43753.html

Completely agree. I would never take a strut apart that i didn't put together or know for sure wouldn't explode on me. That would scare the crap out of me too lol.

Dang, you had a spring compressor on when you installed them? That sounds brutal! Check these out if you haven't seen them: ECS:

Bav Auto:

I don't agree with everything they do, but it shows how the strut comes out. I don't remove my caliper like they do in both videos, but a jack is critical under the suspension to control how far the arms go down, help support the weight of the rotor/caliper, and not put too much tension on the brake line. I'm a pretty big guy and it would be impossible without the help of a jack. Other than that, the strut should barely clear, even with the dinan camber plates.

I also don't hammer a screw driver to spread the clamp holding the strut; i bought the spreader bit socket for that, works like a charm.

Do you have an auto zone or oreily auto parts near you? they rent spring compressors for free with a deposit and you get fully refunded upon return of the item.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by houtan

Completely agree. I would never take a strut apart that i didn't put together or know for sure wouldn't explode on me. That would scare the crap out of me too lol.

Dang, you had a spring compressor on when you installed them? That sounds brutal! Check these out if you haven't seen them:

I don't agree with everything they do, but it shows how the strut comes out. I don't remove my caliper like they do in both videos, but a jack is critical under the suspension to control how far the arms go down, help support the weight of the rotor/caliper, and not put too much tension on the brake line. I'm a pretty big guy and it would be impossible without the help of a jack. Other than that, the strut should barely clear, even with the dinan camber plates.

I also don't hammer a screw driver to spread the clamp holding the strut; i bought the spreader bit socket for that, works like a charm.

Do you have an auto zone or oreily auto parts near you? they rent spring compressors for free with a deposit and you get fully refunded upon return of the item.

Yeah I've historically used the AutoZone type store rental compressors to do my suspension work in the past. Just tired of wrenching down four bolts. Talk about tedious. Also, just because you have compressors on there doesn't mean they can't move and have the strut still pop on you.

I have a Schwaben spindle spreader that I use on this car, saves so much headache. I would never recommend jamming a screwdriver in there. And yeah, a jack under the hub is TOTALLY a good idea, when I did my last install I loosened/disconnected virtually everything to the point the whole assembly almost fell out of the car. I didn't remove the caliper either like they show and left the brake lines connected. If I hadn't had the jack under the hub it would have been disastrous. But interestingly, I still couldn't get the top of the OEM strut down far enough to swivel it out past the fender. Guess that's something a bit different between the 1er and 3er fenders. Had to pull it out of the spindle first with the top hat attached to the strut mount, then pull it out of the wheel well backwards. I'm sure it's possible to do it the "right" way, but not that I found with only one pair of hands.

[houtan]

Yeah the 3er has way more space to get the strut out. On the 1er it literally barely clears the fender. I'll try and take a pic when I do the install.

[lakefront]

Guy on E90 Post is selling BNIB TC Kline SA coilover kit with Vorshlag plates. Someone needs to snap this up!

[drunkenup]

By the way, does anyone know the size of the top nut on the TCK struts? I'm installing mine soon and ended up ordering the schwaben open socket in both 21 and 22mm

[tkong]

They're mine now

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by drunkenup

By the way, does anyone know the size of the top nut on the TCK struts? I'm installing mine soon and ended up ordering the schwaben open socket in both 21 and 22mm

Depending on if you are using OEM top mounts, TCKR or Vorshlag camber plates.

[tkong]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Depending on if you are using OEM top mounts, TCKR or Vorshlag camber plates.

What size do you need for vorshlag camber plates?

[drunkenup]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Depending on if you are using OEM top mounts, TCKR or Vorshlag camber plates.

OEM top hats

[hokejka]

updates? how do you guys like the tckrs? i am in the same boat but am leaning towards st sta and doing a front short spring conversion to clear the wheels... makes me question my choice when i keep reading fantastic things about the tckrs. did both of you guys go S/A?

[houtan]

still haven't put mine on, but I went with the S/A. I have all the parts in hand, I am just waiting for a free weekend to get it installed. I am unclear on clearance issues as well and will update once installed. I have apex arc8 18x8.5 et45 with 235/40s and my tire barely clears right now on the fender side with 2.5ish degrees of camber. I never hear it rub, but it must barely touch in certain scenarios because I always have to cover up on small part of the fender lip with primer every oil change. I am royally screwed if I have to run a spacer lol.

I am hoping with the tc spring and camber plates, and half a finger gap, that the perch will clear the tire. Hoping to find out this weekend.

[ShocknAwe]

Same thing here. Sitting in my garage all boxed up and pretty. Almost done with the majority of my garage renovation (everything minus the floor) so it'll be install time soon!

[hokejka]

Originally Posted by houtan

still haven't put mine on, but I went with the S/A. I have all the parts in hand, I am just waiting for a free weekend to get it installed. I am unclear on clearance issues as well and will update once installed. I have apex arc8 18x8.5 et45 with 235/40s and my tire barely clears right now on the fender side with 2.5ish degrees of camber. I never hear it rub, but it must barely touch in certain scenarios because I always have to cover up on small part of the fender lip with primer every oil change. I am royally screwed if I have to run a spacer lol.

I am hoping with the tc spring and camber plates, and half a finger gap, that the perch will clear the tire. Hoping to find out this weekend.

Thats very strange I have never heard that. 235/40s should be fine to run stock and with 2.5 deg of camber there should be well over 1/2 inch gap from fender. People are fitting 255/35s with et40 and 2.5 deg of camber and a roll..Are you sure you don't have a spacer or are correct with your camber. A buddy of mien is running 245/40 on stock suspension with camber pins out and rarely rubs. I said that correct 245/40.

_____________


Put these things on guys! I think I'm next in line and want to hear your results.

Also, any reasons you went for the TCK instead of of Ohlins R/T