09 135i with 57k miles any issues with higher miles?

[imstupidsorry101]

yeah we have a lot of verts around her but I'm not into them only hardtops for me just my preference

but damn man that was a long list of issues haha smh idk if i could put up with it all haha

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by imstupidsorry101

so I just narrowed my coupe hunt officially to a 1 series and was pretty sure to get a 128i but i just have been loving the more aggressive look for the 135i and it flys .

so I'm at a hard spot
should i go for
09 128i with 16k miles for 23,000
or
09 135i with 57k miles for 25,000

hostly I'm pretty determined to get the 135i now i love the performance and body kit and wheels

anyone have issues with higher miles on their 135i? its car fax was good and its from a bmw dealer so they def gave it a decent if not amazing inspection it isn't certified and not sure how much is on the warranty .

just any input on high miles , i have 65k on my tahoe and its still golden so just wondering i guess

At that mileage it's more likely that this was mainly highway miles.
At 3 years that's about 19,000 miles per year.
57K miles on a 3 year old car isn't that troubling really, as it's likely highway miles.

The most important thing for a cars overall life is maintenance. At this mileage you will want to do some maintenance, and make sure that the maintenance that should have been done, has been done. The following may seem like a lot, but really it's just maintenance. If you do what needs to be done, you'll get lots of miles from your BMW. BMW engines are very solid and will run over 200,000 miles if you want it to with proper maintenance.

Tires. If the tires have half their tread or less, then you should deduct for new tires. Are the tires the correct type for a 135i, meaning, are they high performance with the correct speed rating. It's ok if they are not RFT's, but they need to be of high performance quality and proper speed rating.

Brakes. at that mileage I would have to verify how long until new pads will be needed, both front and rear. Rotors can be turned as we have some beefy rotors.

Spark plugs. You'll need a new set. At this mileage in a turbo engine, the plugs need to be changed. Consider the cost of the plugs and labor, and then deduct that. You can change them yourself if you know how, but still deduct the full amount of dealer replaced/installed plugs.

Brake fluid flush. BMW does a brake flush about every 2 years. Check the records to make sure this was done at least once as it's 3 years old.
In about a year you will need another flush. It could be done when you do the brakes. Find out the cost and deduct at least half.

Coolant flush. Every 2-3 years. When was it last done?
Cost, deduct.

Air filter. Look at it yourself, and look at the records. It should have been changed at least once by now. Air filters go with mileage not age.
Cabin air filter. Check when it was done, and when you'll need to replace it. It keeps incoming cabin air clean, and the HVAC running properly.

Drive belt/s. It could be time. Check the maintenance interval, and deduct if it needs changing.

Check to make sure that the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) has been replaced under the BMW recall. There has been a high failure rate on the original pumps prior to the recall. Since then the pumps have been holding up quite nicely. BMW extended the warranty on the 135i up to the 2010 model year, for 10 years or 120,000 miles.
Dealer may claim it's no big deal as it has a warranty, but that's no reason why a BMW dealer shouldn't have already done it, especially since it's at a BMW dealership. It's a waste of your time to have to come back. If this dealer offers loaners for used BMW buyers, then it's less of an issue.

Oil changes. Make sure you have BMW records for this. If the previous owner did them correctly, then BMW covered oil changes up to 50,000 miles. So, assuming 1 change every 15k miles, that would be 3 oil changes by BMW until 45,000 miles. There should be records till then.
If the 15k interval was followed, you should be due for an oil change at 60K or sooner depending on what the ECU triggers.

Check the 3rd brake light lens. It's the one imbedded in the center of the trunk lid. These are notorious for breaking, and on some cars, 2 or more times.

Get a list of all recalls and make sure they were done or will get done before you buy.

That's all I can think of for now.
High mileage, low age vehicles can make a good buy, as long as maintenance has been done.

Happy shopping.

[imstupidsorry101]

Originally Posted by RPM90

At that mileage it's more likely that this was mainly highway miles.
At 3 years that's about 19,000 miles per year.
57K miles on a 3 year old car isn't that troubling really, as it's likely highway miles.

The most important thing for a cars overall life is maintenance. At this mileage you will want to do some maintenance, and make sure that the maintenance that should have been done, has been done. The following may seem like a lot, but really it's just maintenance. If you do what needs to be done, you'll get lots of miles from your BMW. BMW engines are very solid and will run over 200,000 miles if you want it to with proper maintenance.

Tires. If the tires have half their tread or less, then you should deduct for new tires. Are the tires the correct type for a 135i, meaning, are they high performance with the correct speed rating. It's ok if they are not RFT's, but they need to be of high performance quality and proper speed rating.

Brakes. at that mileage I would have to verify how long until new pads will be needed, both front and rear. Rotors can be turned as we have some beefy rotors.

Spark plugs. You'll need a new set. At this mileage in a turbo engine, the plugs need to be changed. Consider the cost of the plugs and labor, and then deduct that. You can change them yourself if you know how, but still deduct the full amount of dealer replaced/installed plugs.

Brake fluid flush. BMW does a brake flush about every 2 years. Check the records to make sure this was done at least once as it's 3 years old.
In about a year you will need another flush. It could be done when you do the brakes. Find out the cost and deduct at least half.

Coolant flush. Every 2-3 years. When was it last done?
Cost, deduct.

Air filter. Look at it yourself, and look at the records. It should have been changed at least once by now. Air filters go with mileage not age.
Cabin air filter. Check when it was done, and when you'll need to replace it. It keeps incoming cabin air clean, and the HVAC running properly.

Drive belt/s. It could be time. Check the maintenance interval, and deduct if it needs changing.

Check to make sure that the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) has been replaced under the BMW recall. There has been a high failure rate on the original pumps prior to the recall. Since then the pumps have been holding up quite nicely. BMW extended the warranty on the 135i up to the 2010 model year, for 10 years or 120,000 miles.
Dealer may claim it's no big deal as it has a warranty, but that's no reason why a BMW dealer shouldn't have already done it, especially since it's at a BMW dealership. It's a waste of your time to have to come back. If this dealer offers loaners for used BMW buyers, then it's less of an issue.

Oil changes. Make sure you have BMW records for this. If the previous owner did them correctly, then BMW covered oil changes up to 50,000 miles. So, assuming 1 change every 15k miles, that would be 3 oil changes by BMW until 45,000 miles. There should be records till then.
If the 15k interval was followed, you should be due for an oil change at 60K or sooner depending on what the ECU triggers.

Check the 3rd brake light lens. It's the one imbedded in the center of the trunk lid. These are notorious for breaking, and on some cars, 2 or more times.

Get a list of all recalls and make sure they were done or will get done before you buy.

That's all I can think of for now.
High mileage, low age vehicles can make a good buy, as long as maintenance has been done.

Happy shopping.

honestly that was prob one of the best broken down explanation on what i should be looking for and expect to have done before the car I'm def printing this out and having it all looked over , its def worth the extra time i kinda want to watch them go over as i don't want them to say ok n they barely tap the list lol

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by imstupidsorry101

so I just narrowed my coupe hunt officially to a 1 series and was pretty sure to get a 128i but i just have been loving the more aggressive look for the 135i and it flys .

so I'm at a hard spot
should i go for
09 128i with 16k miles for 23,000
or
09 135i with 57k miles for 25,000

hostly I'm pretty determined to get the 135i now i love the performance and body kit and wheels

anyone have issues with higher miles on their 135i? its car fax was good and its from a bmw dealer so they def gave it a decent if not amazing inspection it isn't certified and not sure how much is on the warranty .

just any input on high miles , i have 65k on my tahoe and its still golden so just wondering i guess

This will be a long post, yeah, like the other one.
Hopefully it will be beneficial to you.

I looked on edmunds.com for an appraisal.
But, you didn't list what options are on the 135i you are looking at.
It makes a difference.

I assumed it has the sport pkg. and the "premium" pkg, along with heated seats.
2009 135i, MT, metallic paint, premium pkg, sport pkg. w/57,000 miles in "clean" condition, meaning it needs minimal reconditioning with plenty of tire tread.

Trade in: $22,389
Private Seller: $24,408
Dealer sale: $26,528
Dealer certified: $28,585

I don't think BMW will certify a BMW with over 50K miles.
But, you can ask.

Also consider your market and how well these cars sell, as well as how many are out there for sale in your market.
Your dealer is asking a bit under edmunds.com "dealer" recommendation.
I think edmunds.com can be a bit high on some cars.
I feel/know you can do better than $25K.

Given the higher mileage on this car, it's not going to be a top pick for people looking at this type of car. Most buyers look for low to average miles. The high mileage penalty according to edmunds.com is only $1186. I think in reality it's higher than that. $1186 is only a few hundred dollars more than a new set of 18" tires for this car.

The dealer bought this car for less than it's current trade in value.
It could be lease return given it's 3 year age. If the dealer bought it at an auction, where many lease cars go, then he got it for much much less than trade in.

Consider this, my 2009 135i has MT, prem pkg, and sport pkg. My lease is 3yrs at 12k miles per year. Residual is around $25,450. Some leasers have been offered $1000 off their residual if they buy their leases, and then get a CPO warranty included.
For my 2009 with only 36,000 miles that would be about $24,450 for a CPO'd 135i w/36,000 miles.

I'm sure you'd pay $24,450 for a CPO 2009 135i w/36,000 miles.

The 135i you're looking at has 21,000 more miles, and no CPO. It should cost a good bit less than $24,450.
Take the near $1200 that edmunds.com deducts for the extra miles, and consider there is no warranty left. $2000 less?
Offer $22,000 and see what happens. There is no shame in a low ball price. If they don't want it, they say, "No." Then, the ball is now in their court to counter. Have a limit in mind and stick with it.
$23,500 limit? I wouldn't pay more. Even if you need to walk, DO IT. Don't get sucked in by emotion even though you really want there car. There are more out there.

Used car prices are MUCH more negotiable than new car prices.

BIG ADVICE: Do NOT, do not make the mistake of negotiating a trade in price for your current vehicle while trying to negotiate a selling price for the 135i.
Keep the transactions separate. It'll keep both deals much easier to negotiate without muddling the numbers, and sales people love to muddle the numbers.
Buying a car is a different/separate transaction from selling a car.

Go to carmax and get a sell price for free.
It doesn't take a lot of time. I was out in less than 1/2 hour. Carmax will look over your SUV and they'll make you a legit offer. You now have a legit cash offer by which to make your decision. Since you've decided to do a trade in, having an existing legit offer puts you in a better negotiating position cause you have something to compare the dealers offer to.

The positive to doing a trade in at the same dealer you are buying a car from, is that in many states the trade in value doesn't get taxed.
Example: vehicle selling price is $10,000. Trade in is $3000.
You will pay sales tax only on the difference, $7000. If your sales tax is 8%, then you save $3000 X 8%, or $240.
So, consider that when deciding if the carmax offer is better than your dealers offer plus the tax savings.

Happy shopping.