Whats the best fbo setup

[b3turbo]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Domestically made race fuel.

It's worth it.

Can you tell us more about homemade race fuel ?

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by xQx

Fook me!!!

I pay that for 1 LITER of E85.

Issue stop payment on that wedding and demand lower fuel prices.

Originally Posted by b3turbo

Can you tell us more about homemade race fuel ?

Vodka is for cars. Not Ruskies. Make go fast.

[icegrill]

What’s fbo?

[b3turbo]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Issue stop payment on that wedding and demand lower fuel prices.






Vodka is for cars. Not Ruskies. Make go fast.

seen guys use vodka in methanol injection kits can you share some info on what you're doin ? do you mix it with fuel or are you using a meth injection kit ?

[Dat Aus]

Originally Posted by icegrill

What’s fbo?

Full bolt-on.

Essentially, having all parts upgraded that are simple bolt-on installations. For these cars its the intercooler, downpipes and intake. You can include the exhaust too but you generally won't get any significant gains from an aftermarket exhaust on this platform.

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by b3turbo

seen guys use vodka in methanol injection kits can you share some info on what you're doin ? do you mix it with fuel or are you using a meth injection kit ?

We have "blender pumps" here,




So I don't have a need to put in E85 and mix it down with 91.

But when I travel I'll mix for the track event. On my return trip I just put straight E85 in and don't get greedy with the throttle.
The only reason I can't run full E85 is I'm out of High Pressure Fuel Pump capacity. My pressures hold near 1,300psi if I blend, if I go full E85 they crash to 400psi and the car pulls timing. My target is about E50 for safe HPFP pressure; you're might be higher or lower depending on setup and condition of pumps.


I am not doing any supplemental fuel, no meth or port injection. I don't feel comfortable in adding something that could add that much risk to how well the stock DME protects/controls the engine. To me it's a regression in tech vs the progression I'd like to see.


Until I get more fuel I am stuck at this power level, flirting with 500whp is what we think. And i'm happy with that. So now I'm focusing on traction to get faster. Should work.

[b3turbo]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

No need for flex section on the downpipe, just grab the VRSF ones.
Spot on fitment + lifetime gurantee

The VRSF HD is a really good choice.
Its a perfect option for stage 2 cars on stock turbo

So can you share a FBO setup you would advise a customer to buy ?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by b3turbo

So can you share a FBO setup you would advise a customer to buy ?

There is no one correct combination

Our most popular setup is
Jb4
VRSF Charge Pipe
VRSF Downpipe
Wagner EVO II Comp Intercooler

the VRSF 7" HD is a close second

AR Design offers amazing downpipes as well that are popular but will cost you double compared to VRSF DP

[Juggernaut135i]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

There is no one correct combination

Our most popular setup is
Jb4
VRSF Charge Pipe
VRSF Downpipe
Wagner EVO II Comp Intercooler

the VRSF 7" HD is a close second

AR Design offers amazing downpipes as well that are popular but will cost you double compared to VRSF DP

I'd go for MHD instead of jb4. A lot of people have switched. I have an Active Autowerke tune. But switching to MHD ASAP

[NinjaDog]

Can someone explain to me the benefits of inlet and outlet replacements?
Currently doing the following and considering whether it is necessary:
- Intercooler
- Radiator
- Downpipes
- Chargepipe
- HPFP

[iminhell1]

Some say there is a flow restriction to them. And they may be correct, but not for stock turbos.
With stock there are no gains.


When/if you upgrade turbos, then do inlets and outlets, mainly because the good turbos have a size changes and stock no longer fits.

[hunginator]

When just installing an aftermarket down pipe, is it mandatory to get a tune (JB4, MHD, etc.) to ensure that the engine is safe?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by hunginator

When just installing an aftermarket down pipe, is it mandatory to get a tune (JB4, MHD, etc.) to ensure that the engine is safe?

Engine is safe either way, we strongly recommend adding a tune to take advantage of all the extra power

[hunginator]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Engine is safe either way, we strongly recommend adding a tune to take advantage of all the extra power

Thanks for the reply. Just out of curiosity and I know that the popular opinion is to get a tune... but if I get a down pipe without a tune, and although the engine will be safe, will it affect the way the car runs (ie. less smooth)?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by hunginator

Thanks for the reply. Just out of curiosity and I know that the popular opinion is to get a tune... but if I get a down pipe without a tune, and although the engine will be safe, will it affect the way the car runs (ie. less smooth)?

It will not

[BimmerAg]

Originally Posted by hunginator

Thanks for the reply. Just out of curiosity and I know that the popular opinion is to get a tune... but if I get a down pipe without a tune, and although the engine will be safe, will it affect the way the car runs (ie. less smooth)?

Car should run just fine. My question is, why would you want to change out the downpipe without getting a tune though? Exhaust sound? Performance (much better with a tune)? Other?

[xQx]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Some say there is a flow restriction to them. And they may be correct, but not for stock turbos.
With stock there are no gains.

I'd dispute that. I did inlets and outlets on my car and can attest to gains measured by butt-dyno and LPFP load (increased fueling requirement).

Note, I have a RHD car, which has an additional restriction in the outlets caused by our steering column being on the hot-side of the engine.

Inlets and Outlets don't give any noticeable peak power gains, because, as you correctly noted - assuming you've got sufficient fuel and octane, at full power/full spin the limit of a FBO N54 with stock turbos is the turbos.

But it does increase flow to and from the turbo, and decreases resistance. This means the turbos spool up more quickly - because they don't have to work as hard to get to the same PSI, and can mean more volume of air (thus more fuel thus more power) at the same boost level. Essentially giving you the power of 19psi at 17psi. This depends on the placement of the boost sensor, and is much harder to measure because you're not talking gains that can be measured without a proper dyno.

I was able to meaure it though, because prior to doing inlets+outlets I could run 35% ethanol before reaching LPFP limits, and this reduced to 10% ethanol after - essentially inlets+outlets gave me E25 power on pump fuel.

On a dyno graph you'll see a higher/earlier boost curve with inlets and outlets, but almost no peak power increase. In traffic, it's very noticeable - they make a big improvement to the turbo-lag.

(Turbo lag is kinda the wrong word, there's very little turbo lag in a FBO stock twin-turbo setup, but I mean you're getting more power much more quickly than before, but capping out at the same level).

I do concede they're a lot of money and a lot of work for relatively small gains, but there's certainly not no gains with stock turbos.

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by xQx

But it does increase flow to and from the turbo, and decreases resistance. This means the turbos spool up more quickly - because they don't have to work as hard to get to the same PSI, and can mean more volume of air (thus more fuel thus more power) at the same boost level. Essentially giving you the power of 19psi at 17psi. This depends on the placement of the boost sensor, and is much harder to measure because you're not talking gains that can be measured without a proper dyno.

I've seen that said by more than a handful of people, more flow. Thing is it's not true.

That amount of power, or air, the engine can pump is controlled by the cams, and any exhaust restriction. Changing things on the inlet side won't change anything unless,
the exhaust was restricted
the cam timing changed

All things equal, less boost pressure is less power at the tire.
A better explanation as to why someone may see less pressure and feel more power is due to more time to cool the charge air, due to pipe volume increase. And that same volume increase would actually reduce spool time.

The inlet wheel has a somewhat fixed volume of air it can ingest. To change the flow/time you must increase the wheel speed. To do that you need to close the wastegate more, or all the way.
And when you increase wheel speed you heat the air more. It's a catch 22.



FWIW, I have relocated inlets. I did it because it was the last mod I had left to do and I'd read that it really opened up the top end flow.
I can say that I have not experienced any of that and I'm very confident it was marketing and not proven science.
I don't regret doing inlets. I like them aesthetically. But that $500 could have been better spent on something else to make the car go faster.

[hunginator]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

It will not

Thanks!

Originally Posted by BimmerAg

Car should run just fine. My question is, why would you want to change out the downpipe without getting a tune though? Exhaust sound? Performance (much better with a tune)? Other?

Mainly for the sound and scared of voiding my warranty w/ a tune.

[icegrill]

Originally Posted by hunginator

Thanks!



Mainly for the sound and scared of voiding my warranty w/ a tune.

I just had my mmp downpipes installed and definitely notice a difference in turbo spool responsiveness. Plus with the bmw pe the sound is raucous!

[hunginator]

How do you guys cope w/ the smell after installing catless downpipes? Bearable or suffocating? lol

[xQx]

Originally Posted by hunginator

How do you guys cope w/ the smell after installing catless downpipes? Bearable or suffocating? lol

No difference unless you turn MHD Burble up and spew heaps of unburnt petrol into the exhaust.

Why?
In addition to the cats in the downpipes (which you remove), there are also cats in the midpipes (which remain).