Best suspension for Daily Driver / Backroads Dancer 135i

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I've got the front at full stiff and it feels great; well-controlled and not uncomfortable. I think the rear is too stiff, though, at 1.6-1.75 turns from soft...

I'm likely dropping the Koni's for some Ohlins soon...

I love those Ohlins Road & Track coilovers. Wanted to go that way, but the cost was more than I could justify (no Track for me.) Also figuring out the rear spring solution left too much room for error. Glad to hear you seem to have it worked out.

I went 1/2 turn from full hard on the fronts with the Swift springs on, and the ride was miserable. A little tramlining, and it crashed hard over every seam and pothole. I thought my front tires were shot.
I liked it 1.5 turns from soft with those springs. But I felt that's a little more rebound than necessary for the Eibachs, on my roads.

[tjswarbrick]

Cranked it back up to 1 full turn from soft.
Replaced all three spring tower bolts.

[tjswarbrick]

Okay.
I promised you shots of the ride height after I washed the car.
It started raining again as soon as I finished the spray wax / dry portion, so clean is a relative term. But it's much better than it had been before.
This is on the E88 / 328i Eibach springs:







I've been driving the beans out of it. All the roads that used to give me fits. Don't know if anyone's familiar, but I took it down "blood alley", the "race track" someone carved between San Jose and Santa Cruz (CA-17); then on the way back took Old San Jose and Old Santa Cruz. All were magnificent, an utter joy. Even in the rain sans roof! The wife forgot to complain about the bumpy ride, and she actually commented that the back-roads version was much nicer and we should do that every time. This suspension, with the MPSS, is sheer bliss and is the way BMW should set these things up from the factory. Sure, you can go stiffer for the track. But, on road, I finally found my perfect setup.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Okay.
I promised you shots of the ride height after I washed the car.
It started raining again as soon as I finished the spray wax / dry portion, so clean is a relative term. But it's much better than it had been before.
This is on the E88 / 328i Eibach springs:







I've been driving the beans out of it. All the roads that used to give me fits. Don't know if anyone's familiar, but I took it down "blood alley", the "race track" someone carved between San Jose and Santa Cruz (CA-17); then on the way back took Old San Jose and Old Santa Cruz. All were magnificent, an utter joy. Even in the rain sans roof! The wife forgot to complain about the bumpy ride, and she actually commented that the back-roads version was much nicer and we should do that every time. This suspension, with the MPSS, is sheer bliss and is the way BMW should set these things up from the factory. Sure, you can go stiffer for the track. But, on road, I finally found my perfect setup.

I pulled my rear shocks out week before last and firmed them up a bit. So yesterday went to do the same on the front. When you get a minute, would you take a look at your fronts and tell me how much thread is showing above the top nut?

Your ride height looks good!

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by gjm120

I pulled my rear shocks out week before last and firmed them up a bit. So yesterday went to do the same on the front. When you get a minute, would you take a look at your fronts and tell me how much thread is showing above the top nut?

Your ride height looks good!

Thank you!

Results of my inspection are inconclusive.

Legacy left side has about 2 threads showing.
Newly replaced right side has about 1/2 thread showing.
But since the mechanic replaced all 4 springs when the new strut was installed, I'm pretty sure he would have had to remove and reinstall that left one, too.

If it's any comfort, for full strength 1/2 OD thread engagement is all that's necessary for aluminum bolts, and about 1/3 OD engagement gives the full strength available from a steel bolt. I didn't measure the threaded shaft OD, but it looks like ~14mm to me. Which means that if you've got 5mm worth of threads fully engaged in the nut, then the fastener joint is not your highest risk point of failure. I think the nut is about 10mm tall. Can't really get the calipers in there while it's all buttoned down...

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Thank you!

Results of my inspection are inconclusive.

Legacy left side has about 2 threads showing.
Newly replaced right side has about 1/2 thread showing.
But since the mechanic replaced all 4 springs when the new strut was installed, I'm pretty sure he would have had to remove and reinstall that left one, too.

If it's any comfort, for full strength 1/2 OD thread engagement is all that's necessary for aluminum bolts, and about 1/3 OD engagement gives the full strength available from a steel bolt. I didn't measure the threaded shaft OD, but it looks like ~14mm to me. Which means that if you've got 5mm worth of threads fully engaged in the nut, then the fastener joint is not your highest risk point of failure. I think the nut is about 10mm tall. Can't really get the calipers in there while it's all buttoned down...

That's fine. I was just looking for a rough idea. I feel comfortable with what's showing on mine now.

Thanks a lot.

[TridenTBoy]

I too live in the bay. Same complaints you have. Same car - just an IS. Seems I'll likely do something similar but I'm going to be buying longer springs so the car doesn't have ride height issues. I want the stock height as to avoid any crashing or clearance issues. I'm also looking to do a 245 square setup as to avoid having to pay full price for tires when replacing.

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by TridenTBoy

I too live in the bay. Same complaints you have. Same car - just an IS. Seems I'll likely do something similar but I'm going to be buying longer springs so the car doesn't have ride height issues. I want the stock height as to avoid any crashing or clearance issues. I'm also looking to do a 245 square setup as to avoid having to pay full price for tires when replacing.

I saw that!
Just put some comments into your suspension thread.
There are a few guys on here with a square setup (though I can't think of any on a drop-top). But the key seems to be additional negative camber - which will in all likelihood exacerbate the tire wear.
Best of luck to you. I'll be following along to see how it turns out.