Suspension advice

[2008e92328i]

Originally Posted by PcarDefector

Just rereading your criteria, I don't have get a strong sense of what you are looking for. Here's what I could establish:

1. You want to improve handling and reduce body roll when cornering hard.
Comment: Are you referring to street or track use? Fixing roll on the street is easier than for track use.

2. You want reliability beyond 30k miles.
Comment: any of the top tier aftermarket brand will achieve this goal but Bilstein and Koni are the most common in the sub-$1000 range.Plenty of reviews on both in this and other forums.

3. You want the adjustability of coilovers but have a budget around $1000.
Comment: Most of the $1000 coilovers do not your reliability goal. Plenty of reviews on low end coilovers like BC Racing and Tein complaining about reliability and lack of compliance.

4. You don't like the rake of the B12 Bilstein kit (with Eibach springs).
Comment: The rake is caused by the springs. You can choose different spring combinations what will change the rake and/or use spring spacers to change the rake (be careful as too big a shim (ie. >1/2") can cause preloading of the shock and early wear). Camber plates can also raise the car slightly without impacting the travel of your shocks.

5. You didn't state how much you want to lower the car.
Comment Msport springs will give you 1/2' drop from stock with even rake
BMW performance springs will lower your car by another 10mm or so.
Swift Spec R will rap another 1/2" from BMWPS springs with even rake.
http://swiftsprings.wpengine.com/pro...prings-spec-r/

Note that #5 is listed in increasing spring stiffness.

Most of the springs like H&R and Eibach have more drop and more rake.

Summary: Go with Bilstein B8 and Swift Spec R springs. Meets your requirement for better handling, longevity, minimal rake and your budget.

Originally Posted by PcarDefector

Just rereading your criteria, I don't have get a strong sense of what you are looking for. Here's what I could establish:

1. You want to improve handling and reduce body roll when cornering hard.
Comment: Are you referring to street or track use? Fixing roll on the street is easier than for track use.

2. You want reliability beyond 30k miles.
Comment: any of the top tier aftermarket brand will achieve this goal but Bilstein and Koni are the most common in the sub-$1000 range.Plenty of reviews on both in this and other forums.

3. You want the adjustability of coilovers but have a budget around $1000.
Comment: Most of the $1000 coilovers do not your reliability goal. Plenty of reviews on low end coilovers like BC Racing and Tein complaining about reliability and lack of compliance.

4. You don't like the rake of the B12 Bilstein kit (with Eibach springs).
Comment: The rake is caused by the springs. You can choose different spring combinations what will change the rake and/or use spring spacers to change the rake (be careful as too big a shim (ie. >1/2") can cause preloading of the shock and early wear). Camber plates can also raise the car slightly without impacting the travel of your shocks.

5. You didn't state how much you want to lower the car.
Comment Msport springs will give you 1/2' drop from stock with even rake
BMW performance springs will lower your car by another 10mm or so.
Swift Spec R will rap another 1/2" from BMWPS springs with even rake.
http://swiftsprings.wpengine.com/pro...prings-spec-r/

Note that #5 is listed in increasing spring stiffness.

Most of the springs like H&R and Eibach have more drop and more rake.

Summary: Go with Bilstein B8 and Swift Spec R springs. Meets your requirement for better handling, longevity, minimal rake and your budget.

Great response. Thank you for taking the time to dissect my post and give your advice. My budget is for cheaper suspension. I can wait a little longer and maybe either go with KW V3 or Ohlins R&T. Any opinion on those set ups?
I'm mainly looking to upgrade my suspension for the road and twisties, however, if I were to take the car to a track, I'd want it to perform well enough. I want to set this car up as close as possible to the way S2000 feels. It's a ton of fun on the street or track without needing to mess around with stuff. Honestly, my base car is not too terrible, I was just expected more of it. I had 328i with sport package and that car felt better in handling department. I thought 128i would be funner with same power plant, but weighing less. Maybe I need to find a sport suspension equipped car and take it for a spin to "compare it" to base car

[PcarDefector]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

Great response. Thank you for taking the time to dissect my post and give your advice. My budget is for cheaper suspension. I can wait a little longer and maybe either go with KW V3 or Ohlins R&T. Any opinion on those set ups?
I'm mainly looking to upgrade my suspension for the road and twisties, however, if I were to take the car to a track, I'd want it to perform well enough. I want to set this car up as close as possible to the way S2000 feels. It's a ton of fun on the street or track without needing to mess around with stuff. Honestly, my base car is not too terrible, I was just expected more of it. I had 328i with sport package and that car felt better in handling department. I thought 128i would be funner with same power plant, but weighing less. Maybe I need to find a sport suspension equipped car and take it for a spin to "compare it" to base car

Based on your usage, I would say that you would be wasting money on KW V3, Ohlins or other more expensive coilovers. Being able to adjust dampening or ride height is always better if you are willing to play with your setup. All my adjustable coilovers for a track car have been set to maximum dampening and lowest ride height. My brain isn't intuitive to process small changes in dampening.

My experience has been mostly with Koni's and Bllsteins. I just can't get over the fact that Koni seems the same as their 1970's designs with small shock bodies. I confess to like the simplicity and firmness of Bilstein.

I really like my Bilstein B8+BMWPS springs setup. Ride is nicely firm but it feels nervous in corners. It's too cold and wet outside to push my 135i and race tracks weren't open in the winter

I can tell you that my 135i rides better than my 911 which has been lowered by 1.7" and the stock shocks are not complaint. I wish I had gone with Bilstein B16 PSS kit instead for my 911.

NEither Koni or Bilstein have the bling factor of other stocks. I had some very cool shocks for my race car. My Tein coilovers had an anodized aluminum body, independent C/R adjustment, external reservoir, monotube design, etc.

EDIT: nervous feel in corners can be solved with read subframe bushings. It's going to be hard to get a S2000 feeling from a 135i. Upgrading the suspension will give you a very capable sports sedan feel capable of playing with S2000 on the track.

[2008e92328i]

PcarDefector, appreciate your input. I played with DCT setting yesterday in an empty parking lot that was used for autocross a few years back. I wanted to push the car and see how it behaves (safely). It definitely understeers before it oversteers and when the car goes, I feel like it gives you a warning, unlike the s2000 that's has crazy grip and when it lets go, it goes, without a warning. I've never pushed a car hard on the street, but it was fun to see how to control the car over the limit. I think I need to learn how to drive the car stock before I start upgrading parts so I can tell what difference it makes or doesn't. I wish we had some place here where I could go and practice and learn how to deal with oversteer and modulate throttle. I spun the car a few times because I was late with opposite lock, but it was fun, until cops were called. I had to leave
I'm currently looking if there are autox event near me, so I can go and explore my cars limits and how to handle it safely. Btw, I'm surprised how much the car will allow you to have fun with with DTC displayed (not the triangle)

[PcarDefector]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

PcarDefector, appreciate your input. I played with DCT setting yesterday in an empty parking lot that was used for autocross a few years back. I wanted to push the car and see how it behaves (safely). It definitely understeers before it oversteers and when the car goes, I feel like it gives you a warning, unlike the s2000 that's has crazy grip and when it lets go, it goes, without a warning. I've never pushed a car hard on the street, but it was fun to see how to control the car over the limit. I think I need to learn how to drive the car stock before I start upgrading parts so I can tell what difference it makes or doesn't. I wish we had some place here where I could go and practice and learn how to deal with oversteer and modulate throttle. I spun the car a few times because I was late with opposite lock, but it was fun, until cops were called. I had to leave
I'm currently looking if there are autox event near me, so I can go and explore my cars limits and how to handle it safely. Btw, I'm surprised how much the car will allow you to have fun with with DTC displayed (not the triangle)

In response to your comments:

1. I think learning to drive and getting to know your car is wise. That will give you the perspective on what you need to change and how far you want to go. The exception is the RSFB fix - go with the KDT-918 inserts as a quick fix.

2. Learn to drive is highly recommended. Join the BMWCCA in your area and attend their track events. https://rmcbmwcca.org But for more track time and better value for you money, I would recommend attending a Time Attack Driving School. They have a 2.5 day school at LaJunta Raceway in your region. https://www.coloradoscca.org

3. understeer. The e82 has some design compromises that negatively impact the handling including garbage RSFB, narrow wheelwells, limited camber, etc. Lots of advise in the forum about improving handling.

4. Tire slippage - Certain tires have higher slip angles and certain tires are loud and communicative. Tires that are loud at the limit and have more gradual slip angles are easy to drive and more forgiving. You'll have to do your research here. A lot of race schools use street tires as the tire breakaway point is gradual unlike race tires.

[Driven5]

Originally Posted by PcarDefector

In response to your comments:

1. I think learning to drive and getting to know your car is wise. That will give you the perspective on what you need to change and how far you want to go. The exception is the RSFB fix - go with the KDT-918 inserts as a quick fix.

Just to throw it out there, I have a set of these inserts that I was going to put up for sale soon, since I decided to go the Condor UHMW route instead. PM me if interested.

[Cbadca]

If you just want to have a better handling car for the twisties on a budget then I suggest you consider these upgrades in my order of impact, TRW 1M control arms, camber plates, rear subframe inserts. The understeer on this platform is legendary. Gotta fix that. Then either Koni or Bilstein dampeners. Can't go wrong with either. MSport or possibly MPerformance spings are best for a twisties/daily driver. IMO everything else is overkill unless you're chasing faster lap times.

I ran a years worth of auto-x events stock (except for tires) before I did any upgrades. Won my class twice (: Good idea. My first upgrade was tires. I went with used E46 Msport 17 inch style 68 wheels and Federal 595 RSRR's 225/255. Loved the added sidewall. Especially with stock suspension.

Here's what I did next to my car. In Apr 2020 I upgraded my 60K mile 2012 135i MSport suspension to: Koni Yellows, Eibach Springs, Dinan camber plates, TRW 1M front control arms, & Powerflex Black rear busing inserts. Achieved -2 camber. Initially loved the changes. Seriously improved the handling and looked cool lowered. I decided on Dinan fixed camber plates because I knew I wouldn't be manually adjusting them. Heck, to date I've never even adjusted my Koni's.

After living with the stiffer ride, terrible ground clearance and constant scaping, not to mention that I didn't shorten my front bump-stops so I crash the suspension at speed driving through many crowned intersections, I'm going back to the MSport springs ASAP.

Lower springs require smoother roads than we have here in San Diego. The E82's short wheelbase combined with stiffer/lowered suspension also makes it nervous over rougher roads. Gets tiresome. Maybe I'm just getting old, lol.

My car serves as a daily driver, SoCal canyon runs, and occasional auto-x. Unless you're seriously looking at track use I can't see where anything more makes sense. Really at this point for me the game changer is a LSD. That's big $$$ though. I digress.

I had the work done at Independent Motorcars in San Diego. Solid sponsor of our local chapter's auto-x program pre-covid. I bought everything mentioned above but the control arms ahead of consulting with them. For my purposes they advised against stiffer sway bars or coil-overs but strongly recommended the upgraded control arms. Done.

I decided on rear inserts vs. replacing the bushings after a lot of research on this forum due to cost vs. gain vs. purpose. The inserts cost a fraction of the labor cost of replacement bushings and do help settle down the rear end hop. If they last a couple-three years and I have to replace them then I'll still be $$$ ahead.

You can go crazy upgrading this platform. I just had to be honest with myself on how I was going to use the car and build to that purpose. I'm replacing the replacement springs so I'm still learning.

Have fun and good luck

stock and after upgrades

[2008e92328i]

Originally Posted by Cbadca

If you just want to have a better handling car for the twisties on a budget then I suggest you consider these upgrades in my order of impact, TRW 1M control arms, camber plates, rear subframe inserts. The understeer on this platform is legendary. Gotta fix that. Then either Koni or Bilstein dampeners. Can't go wrong with either. MSport or possibly MPerformance spings are best for a twisties/daily driver. IMO everything else is overkill unless you're chasing faster lap times.

I ran a years worth of auto-x events stock (except for tires) before I did any upgrades. Won my class twice (: Good idea. My first upgrade was tires. I went with used E46 Msport 17 inch style 68 wheels and Federal 595 RSRR's 225/255. Loved the added sidewall. Especially with stock suspension.

Here's what I did next to my car. In Apr 2020 I upgraded my 60K mile 2012 135i MSport suspension to: Koni Yellows, Eibach Springs, Dinan camber plates, TRW 1M front control arms, & Powerflex Black rear busing inserts. Achieved -2 camber. Initially loved the changes. Seriously improved the handling and looked cool lowered. I decided on Dinan fixed camber plates because I knew I wouldn't be manually adjusting them. Heck, to date I've never even adjusted my Koni's.

After living with the stiffer ride, terrible ground clearance and constant scaping, not to mention that I didn't shorten my front bump-stops so I crash the suspension at speed driving through many crowned intersections, I'm going back to the MSport springs ASAP.

Lower springs require smoother roads than we have here in San Diego. The E82's short wheelbase combined with stiffer/lowered suspension also makes it nervous over rougher roads. Gets tiresome. Maybe I'm just getting old, lol.

My car serves as a daily driver, SoCal canyon runs, and occasional auto-x. Unless you're seriously looking at track use I can't see where anything more makes sense. Really at this point for me the game changer is a LSD. That's big $$$ though. I digress.

I had the work done at Independent Motorcars in San Diego. Solid sponsor of our local chapter's auto-x program pre-covid. I bought everything mentioned above but the control arms ahead of consulting with them. For my purposes they advised against stiffer sway bars or coil-overs but strongly recommended the upgraded control arms. Done.

I decided on rear inserts vs. replacing the bushings after a lot of research on this forum due to cost vs. gain vs. purpose. The inserts cost a fraction of the labor cost of replacement bushings and do help settle down the rear end hop. If they last a couple-three years and I have to replace them then I'll still be $$$ ahead.

You can go crazy upgrading this platform. I just had to be honest with myself on how I was going to use the car and build to that purpose. I'm replacing the replacement springs so I'm still learning.

Have fun and good luck

stock and after upgrades

Originally Posted by Cbadca

If you just want to have a better handling car for the twisties on a budget then I suggest you consider these upgrades in my order of impact, TRW 1M control arms, camber plates, rear subframe inserts. The understeer on this platform is legendary. Gotta fix that. Then either Koni or Bilstein dampeners. Can't go wrong with either. MSport or possibly MPerformance spings are best for a twisties/daily driver. IMO everything else is overkill unless you're chasing faster lap times.

I ran a years worth of auto-x events stock (except for tires) before I did any upgrades. Won my class twice (: Good idea. My first upgrade was tires. I went with used E46 Msport 17 inch style 68 wheels and Federal 595 RSRR's 225/255. Loved the added sidewall. Especially with stock suspension.

Here's what I did next to my car. In Apr 2020 I upgraded my 60K mile 2012 135i MSport suspension to: Koni Yellows, Eibach Springs, Dinan camber plates, TRW 1M front control arms, & Powerflex Black rear busing inserts. Achieved -2 camber. Initially loved the changes. Seriously improved the handling and looked cool lowered. I decided on Dinan fixed camber plates because I knew I wouldn't be manually adjusting them. Heck, to date I've never even adjusted my Koni's.

After living with the stiffer ride, terrible ground clearance and constant scaping, not to mention that I didn't shorten my front bump-stops so I crash the suspension at speed driving through many crowned intersections, I'm going back to the MSport springs ASAP.

Lower springs require smoother roads than we have here in San Diego. The E82's short wheelbase combined with stiffer/lowered suspension also makes it nervous over rougher roads. Gets tiresome. Maybe I'm just getting old, lol.

My car serves as a daily driver, SoCal canyon runs, and occasional auto-x. Unless you're seriously looking at track use I can't see where anything more makes sense. Really at this point for me the game changer is a LSD. That's big $$$ though. I digress.

I had the work done at Independent Motorcars in San Diego. Solid sponsor of our local chapter's auto-x program pre-covid. I bought everything mentioned above but the control arms ahead of consulting with them. For my purposes they advised against stiffer sway bars or coil-overs but strongly recommended the upgraded control arms. Done.

I decided on rear inserts vs. replacing the bushings after a lot of research on this forum due to cost vs. gain vs. purpose. The inserts cost a fraction of the labor cost of replacement bushings and do help settle down the rear end hop. If they last a couple-three years and I have to replace them then I'll still be $$$ ahead.

You can go crazy upgrading this platform. I just had to be honest with myself on how I was going to use the car and build to that purpose. I'm replacing the replacement springs so I'm still learning.

Have fun and good luck

stock and after upgrades

Great post. Thank you for chiming in. I'm in my late 20's and not into slamming my car and scape everywhere I go anymore. Bilstein (spel?) with either performance springs or m springs is an option that I will go with. I'm not a track junkie (although, I'd like to be one day), so better handling car on the street is what I'm after. There is a BMW event at Barbers coming up in a few months, I might sign up for that, just to experience it and maybe learn more about my car. I will do 1m control arms with subframe bushings in the future. I will do the typical upgrades that 1er owners do. And I might do the 3 stage intake mod (still researching the subject)
I enjoy the car as is on the street, but it could be better. Interestingly enough my old e92 "felt" faster than 128, also the steering felt "better" too. The first time i test drove my car, I've noticed how heavy the steering felt. I bought BMW for the way the car drives (I was hooked with my old 328i) the 328i has also had a sport package which might be the reason why I had more "fun" in 328i. Does sport suspension really make that much difference compared to base suspension?

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

Interestingly enough my old e92 "felt" faster than 128, also the steering felt "better" too. The first time i test drove my car, I've noticed how heavy the steering felt. I bought BMW for the way the car drives (I was hooked with my old 328i) the 328i has also had a sport package which might be the reason why I had more "fun" in 328i.?

Upgrade your suspension, bushings, and add M3 arms and then say that. It won't make your steering any faster, but it will communicate much better.

What is your tire situation BTW? Don't bother with all the suspension upgrades unless you also plan to upgrade your tires. A 225 square setup is easy to achieve and provides nice, balanced handling. A 245 square setup is possible, but your wheel choices will be even more limited.

Have you addressed sway bars? The fronts are no problem, but the rear is your trouble area because of how they mount to the subframe. I don't think the base 128i has any sway bar at all. If you're going to remove the rear subframe, upgrade all your rear bushings at once.

Not to be a downer, but don't drop $2,500 on Ohlins unless you address all the other issues.

[2008e92328i]

My car has all season run flats I believe with base wheels. 205/50/17 is the size. I actually found wheels that I really like, but not sure yet if they'll fit my car.

I'm not sure what these are called, but I like them very much. I didn't realize how how small my tires are.

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

My car has all season run flats I believe with base wheels. 205/50/17 is the size. I actually found wheels that I really like, but not sure yet if they'll fit my car.

I'm not sure what these are called, but I like them very much. I didn't realize how how small my tires are.

Those are BMW #261 wheels.

You did start a thread asking for advice so I'll give my $.02: don't start eating the icing before you've baked the cake. A nice set of coilovers will be awesome, but you need to address some fundamental shortcomings in the base 128i first.

First decide on your budget and your long terms goals. How long are you keeping this car? I plan to keep mine until I can no longer get parts so I have no problem investing in it. I've probably put $9k into a car that cost me $10.5k and I've probably got that much to go before I'm done. Crazy? Maybe, but I love my 1er. You can have an amazing handling car, but you've got a long road ahead of you.

My priorities

1) Wheels and tires: I ordered these within a week of bringing my car home. Runflats suck, stock wheels are ugly, and you will drastically improve both your ride quality and grip by replacing both.

2) Shocks and struts: I replaced these next, but I also did a front sway bar and M3 arms at the same time. If your budget permits do it all at once.

3) Bushings: I haven't even changed out my bushings yet. I plan to remove the rear subframe and replace every bushing at once along with solid trailing arms, camber links, and a bunch of other crap (maybe an LSD if I can swing it). I'm not upgrading my rear sway bar, but this would be the time for you to add one if you remove the subframe.

Do all that and you'll have a staggeringly fun car that rewards you with tons of feedback.

[2008e92328i]

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

Do all that and you'll have a staggeringly fun car that rewards you with tons of feedback.

That’s the end goal. I am planning on keeping this car for awhile. In my 10 years of driving I’ve had 8 cars and two bikes. I’ve wasted so much money on cars, so I’m planning on keeping this one. My favorite car was S2000 because of how fun that car is, but it’s not practical and I’m a little too big for it. Next fun car I came up with was 128i. I didn’t even know about 128i until I’ve come across it on YouTube and Car and Driver review. I chose 128i because I remember how much I liked 328i. It handled awesome in my opinion and I LOVED the look of it. Logically, i thought 128i would be more fun than 3er because it’s a little bit lighter with the same power plant. I am underwhelmed with a stock car compared to 328i. But I knew I wouldn’t keep it stock, that’s why I settled for 128i base with low(er) miles. All I cared about getting was 6spd manual. I will do the typical mods everyone does over the course of my ownership. I’ve had the car for only two weeks or so, so I’m pretty new to it. Once again, appreciate your input. Cheers dude

Do all that and you'll have a staggeringly fun car that rewards you with tons of feedback.

[2008e92328i]

Goodness, I'm doing something wrong with these quotes. 😂

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

I'm not sure what these are called, but I like them very much. I didn't realize how how small my tires are.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1791345

[2008e92328i]

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1791345

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1791345

Thanks for the link, but the seller doesn't ship

[jcrane82]

Originally Posted by Cbadca

...The understeer on this platform is legendary. Gotta fix that....

I ran a years worth of auto-x events stock (except for tires) before I did any upgrades. Won my class twice (: Good idea. My first upgrade was tires. I went with used E46 Msport 17 inch style 68 wheels and Federal 595 RSRR's 225/255. Loved the added sidewall. Especially with stock suspension.

The best way to remove the factory understeer is with a square wheel/tire setup.

This guy gets it....

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

A 225 square setup is easy to achieve and provides nice, balanced handling. A 245 square setup is possible, but your wheel choices will be even more limited.

My 128i has the following upgrades and it is about as playful as you ever want a street legal car to be, as I can perform fantastic drifts with it on the track very controllably.
-Swift Spec R Springs on m/sport dampers
-17x9 wheels with 245/40R17 tires SQUARE (will require front fender rolling/pulling)
-adjustable rear upper control arms for more rear camber and toe adjustability
-Dinan camber plates
-M Factory worm gear style (torsen) Limited Slip Differential (it is important to note that all the electronic nannies should be coded off with the differential install)

minimum toe alignment
-front toe at zero
-front camber at -1.2 degrees
-rear toe in set to 1/16" or less
-rear camber at -1.2 degrees

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by gjm120

Maybe I'm wrong about this, but, if you take advantage of the adjustability of coilovers (ride height, not damping), you are changing suspension geometry. If the change is enough, won't an alignment be necessary?

Absolutely.

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Absolutely.

Can confirm! On a previous car I only lowered my ride height by <.5" and I cupped a nice set of tires pretty badly in just a few thousand miles. I raised it back up and the problem stopped (not bad wheel bearings).

[2008e92328i]

Interesting... My car does have a square set up right now and it still understeers before it oversteers (granted, I only pushed the car in a parking car with lots of opposite lock). I haven't pushed the car hard enough on the street to either notice understeer or oversteer. I'm kinda nervous turning all nannies completely off on the street, in case I push it too hard and end up around a telephone pole or a tree. I am excited about the potential of this car with proper mods. I can't wait to see the difference. I'm gonna attend BMW event that's local to me in a few weeks/months. I actually wanna learn to be a competent driver. I wish it was legal to go to parking lots and just practice without police being called

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

Interesting... My car does have a square set up right now and it still understeers before it oversteers (granted, I only pushed the car in a parking car with lots of opposite lock). I haven't pushed the car hard enough on the street to either notice understeer or oversteer. I'm kinda nervous turning all nannies completely off on the street, in case I push it too hard and end up around a telephone pole or a tree. I am excited about the potential of this car with proper mods. I can't wait to see the difference. I'm gonna attend BMW event that's local to me in a few weeks/months. I actually wanna learn to be a competent driver. I wish it was legal to go to parking lots and just practice without police being called

When it's set up properly, you won't want the nannies. The nannies cause erratic handling IMO and you're better off without them. Nannies won't stop you from wrapping yourself around a tree. Getting to know your car's limits without artificial influences will. With a square tire setup and dialed-in suspension, this car is as neutral as I have ever driven.

You have a square setup now, but sway bars and camber will help get rid of the understeer. My car would still understeer slightly even with a square 225 setup and the stock Sport suspension. It doesn't anymore.

In one way I regret going with a 245 square setup because now it's harder to explore the limits on city streets near the speed limits. I live next to a large corporate subdivision with smooth, wide streets. It's normally dead on weekends anyway, but the 'Rona has really made it a ghost town. I have a lot of fun there on the weekends.

[2008e92328i]

...and no fender rolling for me, at least for near future. I will have to do more searching to see how big a tire I can put on the car. I was searching yesterday about tire sizes because I was clueless what all those numbers on them meant. Oh, and I will more than likely stick with OEM BMW wheels. My favourite so far are the 261M and style 264. I wonder if I can run 18x8.5 on all four corners if I go with square instead of staggered setup. That means I need 4 rear wheels from 135i

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

I wonder if I can run 18x8.5 on all four corners if I go with square instead of staggered setup. That means I need 4 rear wheels from 135i

Yes, but...

Some people swear that you can run a 255 square setup, but I don't think it's possible without >-2° camber and rolled fenders. A 245 square setup is definitely possible with just a little negative camber and the right wheel offset. You're at stock right height right now so I don't think you'd have any problems, but you might want to decide on your suspension setup first before buying wheels and tires. If you want to go with a 225 square setup, don't worry. You should be able to run that with just about any suspension setup and it's more than adequate for a street car with a nice set of tires (PS4S).

[2008e92328i]

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

When it's set up properly, you won't want the nannies. The nannies cause erratic handling IMO and you're better off without them. Nannies won't stop you from wrapping yourself around a tree. Getting to know your car's limits without artificial influences will. With a square tire setup and dialed-in suspension, this car is as neutral as I have ever driven.

You have a square setup now, but sway bars and camber will help get rid of the understeer. My car would still understeer slightly even with a square 225 setup and the stock Sport suspension. It doesn't anymore.

In one way I regret going with a 245 square setup because now it's harder to explore the limits on city streets near the speed limits. I live next to a large corporate subdivision with smooth, wide streets. It's normally dead on weekends anyway, but the 'Rona has really made it a ghost town. I have a lot of fun there on the weekends.

Originally Posted by Thunderguts

When it's set up properly, you won't want the nannies. The nannies cause erratic handling IMO and you're better off without them. Nannies won't stop you from wrapping yourself around a tree. Getting to know your car's limits without artificial influences will. With a square tire setup and dialed-in suspension, this car is as neutral as I have ever driven.

You have a square setup now, but sway bars and camber will help get rid of the understeer. My car would still understeer slightly even with a square 225 setup and the stock Sport suspension. It doesn't anymore.

In one way I regret going with a 245 square setup because now it's harder to explore the limits on city streets near the speed limits. I live next to a large corporate subdivision with smooth, wide streets. It's normally dead on weekends anyway, but the 'Rona has really made it a ghost town. I have a lot of fun there on the weekends.

Have you ever driven an S2000? That car made you smile regardless how fast or slow you were going. S2000 felt like it was on rails. The turn in if that car was the best I've ever experienced so far. You turn the wheel a tiny bit and it just goes. I wonder how close I can get 128i to feel like an S2000. Interesting enough, my old 328i was my second favourite car after S2k. 328i is quite bit heavier but it still handled great and I had lots of fun in. The steering also for some odd reason felt much better than 128i. I know 328i had sport package and 128i doesn't. Does sport package really makes that much difference?