Most powerful 135i in Oz?

[Forced_downunder]

Originally Posted by 135i2

369.7rwkw on Advan Dyno....final power run needed before last mods.

Full Bolts Ons
RBs
Meth
AT

TFT waiting for install
Motiv Stage 2 in the post then install...Justin??

Then full E85 Trebila Flash



Comin' for you Greg

Massive power without the flash mate. Nice work. You'll be smashing the 400 mark for sure. Who will be first :-)

[Forced_downunder]

Originally Posted by 135i2

369.7rwkw on Advan Dyno....final power run needed before last mods.

Full Bolts Ons
RBs
Meth
AT

TFT waiting for install
Motiv Stage 2 in the post then install...Justin??

Then full E85 Trebila Flash



Comin' for you Greg

Tft should be like nothing else.

[Nugget]

Originally Posted by Forced_downunder

I'm having the same issues with AD08R's. Will try the 888's next.

Be warned they are really noisy.

[Forced_downunder]

Originally Posted by Nugget

Be warned they are really noisy.

May put them on spare set of rims for the rear. Any suggestions of DOT approved drag tyre just for drag events? I've got 2 events coming up both over 1000m and no burn outs allowed. Need lots more grip for the power.

[froop]

Originally Posted by Forced_downunder

May put them on spare set of rims for the rear. Any suggestions of DOT approved drag tyre just for drag events? I've got 2 events coming up both over 1000m and no burn outs allowed. Need lots more grip for the power.

NT05R are probably your best bet if you're planning on driving them to and from the track. I haven't tried them though but they look promising from what I've read.

Though if you're using them for 1000m runs and no burnouts are allowed I'm not sure if an R compound tyre is going to help you since usually R comps have worse grip than street tyres until they're properly warmed up.

I have AD08Rs on mine and they're a hoot to drive when they're cold even when still staying under 3k RPM due to a cold engine. I imagine that R comps would be even more slippery when cold.

[MrBlonde]

You can't compare dyne figures from machine to machine ... or even on the same machine on a different day .. or even on the same day.

It's pointless.

[Eric82]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

You can't compare dyne figures from machine to machine ... or even on the same machine on a different day .. or even on the same day.

It's pointless.

You have a point! But you can say that about drag times as well!

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

You can't compare dyne figures from machine to machine ... or even on the same machine on a different day .. or even on the same day.

It's pointless.

yeah, australia needs more dynojets

still, it's the best we got

keep the drag racing thread for 'real world' and this for curiosity

[Forced_downunder]

Dyno graph results attached. 397kw

[Forced_downunder]

Originally Posted by Eric82

Hey guys just wanted to start a thread for people to post there 135i power output and start a ladder of the top 10 in Australia.

Post Dyno Graph as well please and mods!

1. 532hp - Force Downunder ( MT ) Awaiting dyno conformation!
2. 496hp - 135i2 ( ? ) Awaiting Dyno Conformation!
3. 469hp - Eric82 ( Auto Trans )
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

3 shy of the 400 goal ?

[dh58]

Can't believe these numbers lol..

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Forced_downunder

Dyno graph results attached. 397kw

What rear tyre setup do you have?!?

I have a lot less power than that and she's wiggling her arse all over the place in 1st 2nd and even a tiny bit in third with 265/30 19" goodyear F1 A2's

[135i2]

Auto Trans

[Forced_downunder]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

What rear tyre setup do you have?!?

I have a lot less power than that and she's wiggling her arse all over the place in 1st 2nd and even a tiny bit in third with 265/30 19" goodyear F1 A2's

Yeh mate same problem. AD08R's slip sliding away 265's at the rear. Going full M3 camber link conversion and Megan race arms to try steady the beast.

[dh58]

Originally Posted by Forced_downunder

Yeh mate same problem. AD08R's slip sliding away 265's at the rear. Going full M3 camber link conversion and Megan race arms to try steady the beast.

How are you fitting rear 265s? I heard that the 225 front and 265 rears mess with the handling? I'd love to run 265s. Also what rims are you using?

[Forced_downunder]

Originally Posted by dh58

How are you fitting rear 265s? I heard that the 225 front and 265 rears mess with the handling? I'd love to run 265s. Also what rims are you using?

Apex rims. Rolled arches. Tight fit.

[JD75]

Originally Posted by Forced_downunder

I am running full bolt on and meth with Vargas intakes and RB's and last Dyno was 397kw (532hp). The car had developed the old misfire issue and wouldn't rev past 6200rpm. New MOTIV clutch is now in which will hopefully resolve the misfire and the MOTIV stage 2 Port Injection kit is at the shop waiting for install as soon as the clutch is bedded in. Quietly confident we will break 400rwkw this time.

Yeah, 400+rwkW will not be a problem at all now that the engine will rev past 6,200rpm.

The last time Greg's car was on the dyno the power curve was still climbing at that engine speed and that was with around 22psi of boost pressure, I know other guys in the US are running a lot more boost than that on RB's with high-flow inlets.

As for 600 wheel horsepower I don't see that happening on the Advan dyno with RB's or any other Stage 2 hybrid turbo, that will take a properly sorted Single Turbo conversion kit running a decent amount of boost on at least E60.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Forced_downunder

Yeh mate same problem. AD08R's slip sliding away 265's at the rear. Going full M3 camber link conversion and Megan race arms to try steady the beast.

Haha good luck with the mods, you'll need more than that to contain that sorta power

[JD75]

Originally Posted by Forced_downunder

Massive power without the flash mate. Nice work. You'll be smashing the 400 mark for sure. Who will be first :-)

Mike's car does indeed use a custom Trebila Peformance back-end flash but the ignition timing tables are based on the use of an E60 blend, not straight E85.

Once the MOTIV Motorsport PI kit is installed we can dispense with the need for blending and start rockin' the good stuff straight from the one pump, lol.

The back-end flash will be revised accordingly for the use of 100% E85.

[JD75]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

You can't compare dyne figures from machine to machine ... or even on the same machine on a different day .. or even on the same day.

It's pointless.

I very much agree that you can't compare dyno figures from different machines, but I would suggest that comparing dyno numbers from the Advan dyno is not without merit.

We know for a fact that a completely stock N54 will make somewhere between 180-190rwkW (on the Advan dyno) providing it's tied down in the same manner and run at a ramp rate of 200, with the air temperature sensor in the dyno room and not placed within the air inlet system under the hood of the car.

Sure there are factors that contribute to the final power reading such as the choice of tyres used, the tyre pressure, the level of strap tension and to what degree the vehicle is allowed to roll up onto the front drum of the rear rollers on the dyno.

But if you are looking for an apples to apples to comparison Peter has a spare set of low grip wheels and tyres ready to go for cars that have super sticky tyres that tend to deflate dyno numbers quickly once they get hot.

These are what we used on Mike's car and once Greg's is tuned on 100% E85 with the additional boost and ignition timing this allows for, I dare say we'll run his car up using the same wheel/tyre combo to ensure a reasonably level playing field between different N54's on "that particular Dyno Dynamics" dyno.

Cheers,

JD.

[JD75]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Haha good luck with the mods, you'll need more than that to contain that sorta power

Greg's forgotten about the Turner Motorsport solid aluminium rear subframe bushes that will also be installed when all the rear control arms are swapped out for the steel/alloy fully adjustable arms from Megan Racing. Speaking of the rear control arms the proper alignment of the toe control arm is crucial in maintaining straight line stability, the M3 camber link conversion helps a lot with this too as does the previously mentioned billet subframe bushes. The M3 subframe bushes are a nice upgrade over stock but don't get the job done once power levels start to climb above what RB's can do on stock inlets.

But you are right in that these mods will not prevent the tyres from being smoked in the first 3 gears, but the vehicle should track straight under WOT acceleration and not crab-walk as tends to be the case with suspension setups that suffer from a lot of deflection.

[Forced_downunder]

Originally Posted by JD75

Greg's forgotten about the Turner Motorsport solid aluminium rear subframe bushes that will also be installed when all the rear control arms are swapped out for the steel/alloy fully adjustable arms from Megan Racing. Speaking of the rear control arms the proper alignment of the toe control arm is crucial in maintaining straight line stability, the M3 camber link conversion helps a lot with this too as does the previously mentioned billet subframe bushes. The M3 subframe bushes are a nice upgrade over stock but don't get the job done once power levels start to climb above what RB's can do on stock inlets.

But you are right in that these mods will not prevent the tyres from being smoked in the first 3 gears, but the vehicle should track straight under WOT acceleration and not crab-walk as tends to be the case with suspension setups that suffer from a lot of deflection.

I can't wait!