$3500 budget, what would you do...

[..]

Lol at people saying diff

[BMist371]

I wouldn't bother doing a diff on a car intended to be a DD. Suspension work probably wont mean much to him either unless he tracks it. Just do go fast parts and make it look good. At most, all he needs in a DD is bushings, m3 control arms, and maybe some sway bars. Just my 2 cents.

[Z2TT]

If you expect to go from 135i Standard Power, to M3 Like Power and Above - consider how your cars going to handle that power so look into your tyres and diff aswell in that budget instead of squeezing all the power you can from every dollar you have.

[Johnny_M]

I would drive it for a while first, then you can figure out what you need to modify.

I got rid of the run flats and heavy oem rims first, but that's just what I did. I also focused on suspension mods before I went to power.

Looking back, best power upgrade for me was a FMIC and Cobb AP tune. Then you can run the OTS Stage 1+ map. Like others have said, be prepared to install new spark plugs.

Best of luck and congrats on the purchase

[Dmacc]

Get a diff if you want to put the power down properly! It doesn't need to be first, but it should be on your list, it also makes taking turns while daily driving a lot more fun.

[swagon]

Do the suspension first, proper tires and wheels and maybe lsd; then focus on adding power.

[Ski Killset]

I've had mine for a month. This is my plan:

1. Cobb v3 (installed and I love it!)
2. VR downpipes (bought not installed)
3. Walnut Blasting (71k)
4. Front swaybar
5. Rear subframe bushings
6. Berk Street Axleback
7. KW v2
8. Quaife with a 3.46:1

Everything else beyond that is cosmetic.

[J_pasta]

suspension is not high on my list, tires will be changed when i get around to it, as they previous owner had just put new tires on it, so im in no rush for that.

As far as power goes, i want power first, and a nice sounding exhaust, reason being, i drive 90% of my miles on a freeway, i dont need susp, or dif to keep the power down. im not tracking or driving though winding mountains. will i eventually get it done, sure. but right now, i want best bang for buck HP. all the susp, and dif is easy stuff.

[drjekl]

Don't forget to budget for a new set of spark plugs and coils as it's quite common for tuned N54's to start chucking CEL's when you add a tune due to the extra demand placed on the ignition side of things (is an easy DIY and it's only $250 or so)

Also if you have > 40-50k miles possible do a intake clean which is around $400-500 at most indy's in the usa.

[J_pasta]

I do appreciate everyones input though!

mostly what i was asking, and i suppose i didnt ask correctly was,

what power adding parts do you recommend, an why?

why is the 900 DP, better then the 400 one.. type of thing.


Also, which exhaust will give me a throaty, raspy tone?

[vivanapoli806]

What tires do u currently have? With added power u will need better traction. I was running cobb tune on factory runflats and couldn't get and grip at all. I changed out the runflats for Michelin pilot sport as/3 tires

[J_pasta]

Originally Posted by vivanapoli806

What tires do u currently have? With added power u will need better traction. I was running cobb tune on factory runflats and couldn't get and grip at all. I changed out the runflats for Michelin pilot sport as/3 tires

to be honest, i don't know. i will have the car in a few days. its on a truck. but im sure nothing very good. prob regular daily street tires.

I was thinking about doing the michelins. ive seen a few people recommend those.

[vivanapoli806]

I got the as/3 because they out performed summer tires and they are an all season which is better for me since in in Chicago. But I still don't drive in winter. My first mod was cobb tune. Other than that biggest increase u will get is catless downpipes. Definitely get a walnut blast though and change ur spark plugs.

[bootay]

Originally Posted by DurimOne54

1) JB4 w/ USB cable & Dual Cone Intakes combo special via Burgertuning.com - $599
2) 3" Cat-less downpipes via Burgertuning.com - $379
3) cp-e Blowoff Valve Kit with Meth Bung via Burgertuning.com - $550
4) VRSF Front Mount Intercooler w/ lower charge pipe via - http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-7-front...2-e90-e92.html - $479
5) KW V1 coil over suspension via http://www.topgearsolutions.com/kwcokitv1bmw1.html - $1,450

That's $3,500 total!

Now your alternatives are tires (I recommend Michelin PSS) and an upgraded clutch.

JB4+Dual Intake+BMS DPs+VRSF FMIC is the basic power plant upgrade that are basically assumed (you can swap tunes/brands of FMIC/DP).
I'd get a CP+diverter valves to ensure the desert drive is safe.

I'd hold off on suspension, get tires/rims first (EVERYONE likes these, not everyone wants an upgraded suspension).
Later invest in a suspension package to tighten things up afterwards with M3 bits + KW. And maybe even do a limited slip if you're feeling saucy and have the spare $$ . I've really liked mine, but I like to make the car slide around a lot.
Clutch upgrade when the stock one wears out.

[SteveAZ]

My opinion...

First of all, drive the car for a while and see what you like and dislike about it. This will allow you to get familiar with the car and that way once you start modding you know it was good prior to whatever upgrade you've installed. Next, once you start tuning, don't be surprised if you have a couple hiccups...you're now working the car harder and short comings are more likely to appear.

Before I tuned, I would:

-Check the plugs
-Check the history...what kind of mileage does it have and what services have been done?
-Verify what my warranty status is and proceed accordingly. By this I mean, if you have warranty and things like the injectors or HPFP have never been addressed...they may need to so I would keep my mods simple to remove for the time being
-Based on mileage and performance I'd evaluate if an intake valve cleaning needed to be performed.
-See what kind of tires I'm running and their condition
-Change the oil and check the fluids
-Check the brakes
-Check how old the battery is
-I'm sure there is other stuff but that's what comes to mind.

Then you're ready to start modding.

If you're looking for speed...

As a simple performance upgrade I'd do a JB4 or Cobb, DCI's (Dual Cone Intake), OCC (Oil catch can), and RB PCV replacement. 2 of those are performance based and the other two are preventative maintenance type stuff.

This will push the car to the next level and if there are any short comings they are likely to appear now.

Next would be a toss up...depends on warranty status. DP's (Downpipes) are great bang for the buck... (New BMS are no longer an option) but if you're under warranty, I'd hate to have to take them back off.

The other would be an FMIC, easier to remove if need be.

IMO...BOV, DV's...pointless...charge pipe...again, not needed. At least not to begin with.

If you're looking for handling...

Tires...while the RFT's are not very popular...your suspension is designed around them. Removing them and leaving all else stock may have a detrimental affect.

FSB (Front Sway Bar) this is inexpensive and would be near the top of my list if not the first thing.

Next would be the RSFB's (Rear Sub-Frame Bushings) as they are excellent bang for the buck if you can DIY them.

Coilovers...I think a lot of people get stiff coilovers to compensate for other short comings...a stiffer suspension isn't necessarily a better one...it may just mask some of the other issues. So these weren't on the top of my list...I need them now though.

M3 control arms...Front are an excellent value and would recommend them. When I did the rears I did a couple things at once...so things definitely changed, but not sure what all I can contribute to them. The car seems a bit more balanced now but I notice the short comings of the spring rates/dampers...not totally sure which.

LSD...that is if you start making big power or doing track days. With it, I still spin and get intervention from the DTC if it's not totally defeated. Drifting the rear end is definitely easier...still cautious about that. FTR, I run the PSS' in my sig...I don't think they are all they are cracked up to be.

As with the most the other comments...this is mostly opinion based on my experiences...much of it is somewhat subjective. Most of all though...enjoy the car.

[Exile]

+1

Just enjoy your car for a little. But at least start off with intake and jb4. That'll give you some fun for a while as you play around with your car.

Then imo... I would do tint first before any cosmetic mod. Then dp and fmic. Depending on which wheels is coming with the car... You can get new wheels or just powdercoat the oe wheels. Also, depending where you live, if you get snow like us in the Midwest, put aside 1200 for cheap wheels and snow tires.

Suspension if you're going to track it. But enjoy the car first.

[J_pasta]

Originally Posted by SteveAZ

My opinion...

First of all, drive the car for a while and see what you like and dislike about it. This will allow you to get familiar with the car and that way once you start modding you know it was good prior to whatever upgrade you've installed. Next, once you start tuning, don't be surprised if you have a couple hiccups...you're now working the car harder and short comings are more likely to appear.

Before I tuned, I would:

-Check the plugs
-Check the history...what kind of mileage does it have and what services have been done?
-Verify what my warranty status is and proceed accordingly. By this I mean, if you have warranty and things like the injectors or HPFP have never been addressed...they may need to so I would keep my mods simple to remove for the time being
-Based on mileage and performance I'd evaluate if an intake valve cleaning needed to be performed.
-See what kind of tires I'm running and their condition
-Change the oil and check the fluids
-Check the brakes
-Check how old the battery is
-I'm sure there is other stuff but that's what comes to mind.

Then you're ready to start modding.

If you're looking for speed...

As a simple performance upgrade I'd do a JB4 or Cobb, DCI's (Dual Cone Intake), OCC (Oil catch can), and RB PCV replacement. 2 of those are performance based and the other two are preventative maintenance type stuff.

This will push the car to the next level and if there are any short comings they are likely to appear now.

Next would be a toss up...depends on warranty status. DP's (Downpipes) are great bang for the buck... (New BMS are no longer an option) but if you're under warranty, I'd hate to have to take them back off.

The other would be an FMIC, easier to remove if need be.

IMO...BOV, DV's...pointless...charge pipe...again, not needed. At least not to begin with.

If you're looking for handling...

Tires...while the RFT's are not very popular...your suspension is designed around them. Removing them and leaving all else stock may have a detrimental affect.

FSB (Front Sway Bar) this is inexpensive and would be near the top of my list if not the first thing.

Next would be the RSFB's (Rear Sub-Frame Bushings) as they are excellent bang for the buck if you can DIY them.

Coilovers...I think a lot of people get stiff coilovers to compensate for other short comings...a stiffer suspension isn't necessarily a better one...it may just mask some of the other issues. So these weren't on the top of my list...I need them now though.

M3 control arms...Front are an excellent value and would recommend them. When I did the rears I did a couple things at once...so things definitely changed, but not sure what all I can contribute to them. The car seems a bit more balanced now but I notice the short comings of the spring rates/dampers...not totally sure which.

LSD...that is if you start making big power or doing track days. With it, I still spin and get intervention from the DTC if it's not totally defeated. Drifting the rear end is definitely easier...still cautious about that. FTR, I run the PSS' in my sig...I don't think they are all they are cracked up to be.

As with the most the other comments...this is mostly opinion based on my experiences...much of it is somewhat subjective. Most of all though...enjoy the car.

Thank you very much for this info. this is good stuff. thanks for taking the time.

[J_pasta]

Originally Posted by Exile

+1

Just enjoy your car for a little. But at least start off with intake and jb4. That'll give you some fun for a while as you play around with your car.

Then imo... I would do tint first before any cosmetic mod. Then dp and fmic. Depending on which wheels is coming with the car... You can get new wheels or just powdercoat the oe wheels. Also, depending where you live, if you get snow like us in the Midwest, put aside 1200 for cheap wheels and snow tires.

Suspension if you're going to track it. But enjoy the car first.

No snow where i live, and tint is very first thing on my list. I live in vegas, its going to be 110 every day very soon.

[RimasRS]

Damn... Consider that money as a present so take the biggest step forward and get RB TURBO's else you can buy little by little.

[LeoBurr]

As others have said above - Maintenance first (tranny/diff fluids, coolant, brake fluid, pads/rotors if needed, etc.) - And get decent tires on the car. Can't stress this enough.

After that's done, if you can get a Quaife LSD, do it. After that, the lower guide arms and rear subframe bushings do -tons- for the car, even on stock dampers/springs.

Contrary to the opinion of others, even on slow, sharp turns in my neighborhood under throttle, the car handles better. On long, turning overpasses at speed, very much so. These are all encountered in my daily drive and the Quaife really does give the car a more surefooted feeling that the subframe bushings/guide arms only dial in further.

Power can be done last...it's really the Quaife/lower guide arms/rear subframe bushings that I feel make the car, now.

Good luck to ya!

[edisapimp]

You live in Vegas? I lived in LV for 4 years with a turbo car. My advice is get the fattiest intercooler you can. Then get everything else.

[J_pasta]

Originally Posted by edisapimp

You live in Vegas? I lived in LV for 4 years with a turbo car. My advice is get the fattiest intercooler you can. Then get everything else.

What denoted "fattiest" ? lol


you recommend one?