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      08-29-2018, 06:29 PM   #1
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Is my Engine screwed?

So the car has been sitting for about a week and has around 149k km (92k miles), i started the car and noticed some smoke/steam coming out through the grilles. It appears as though i have an oil leak at one of the gaskets (not sure what its called). The photo below shows where the leak is and where it's burning on the exhaust. And no modifications have been done to that half of the engine

All advice is welcome
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      08-29-2018, 07:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 519.E82 View Post
So the car has been sitting for about a week and has around 149k km (92k miles), i started the car and noticed some smoke/steam coming out through the grilles. It appears as though i have an oil leak at one of the gaskets (not sure what its called). The photo below shows where the leak is and where it's burning on the exhaust. And no modifications have been done to that half of the engine

All advice is welcome
This is a very common gasket leak. Welcome to the club. Inexpensive DYI.
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      08-29-2018, 08:15 PM   #3
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Valve cover is probably cracked.
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      08-29-2018, 09:44 PM   #4
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Valve cover is probably cracked.
Assuming the gasket is bad or the cover is cracked, safe to drive or don't drive till fixed?
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      08-29-2018, 09:54 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 519.E82 View Post
Assuming the gasket is bad or the cover is cracked, safe to drive or don't drive till fixed?
Probably depends on how bad. Mine's been like that for more than a year. After a while the car smells oily when you stop because it's on the hot exhaust. ... then, logically it's a fire risk.

Just keep an eye on your oil levels and get it fixed when you can.
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      08-29-2018, 09:56 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by xQx View Post
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Originally Posted by 519.E82 View Post
Assuming the gasket is bad or the cover is cracked, safe to drive or don't drive till fixed?
Probably depends on how bad. Mine's been like that for more than a year. After a while the car smells oily when you stop because it's on the hot exhaust. ... then, logically it's a fire risk.

Just keep an eye on your oil levels and get it fixed when you can.
Looking at how "clean" the exhaust is i think i just saw it start and would maybe do 2 drops per minute at idle
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      08-29-2018, 10:24 PM   #7
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Looking at how "clean" the exhaust is i think i just saw it start and would maybe do 2 drops per minute at idle
Yeah, obviously the sooner the better; but I certainly wouldn't say it's a 'don't drive it until you've fixed it' fault.

It depends on how you keep your car - but I'd just be doing it with the next service.
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      08-29-2018, 11:39 PM   #8
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Bring it in when you can, preferably an indy if you don't want to deal with it yourself or pay dealer your 401k. Just try not to beat on the car when she is leaking like that haha!!
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      08-29-2018, 11:41 PM   #9
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Bring it in when you can, preferably an indy if you don't want to deal with it yourself or pay dealer your 401k. Just try not to beat on the car when she is leaking like that haha!!
I have no issues doing it my self and i was going to put the car away for winter storage in October so its really just do i want to put it away now for the sake of the car and get it fixed. The only thing is the price range for the fox depending on the severity is like $100 all the way up to over $1k
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      08-29-2018, 11:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 519.E82 View Post
I have no issues doing it my self and i was going to put the car away for winter storage in October so its really just do i want to put it away now for the sake of the car and get it fixed. The only thing is the price range for the fix depending on the severity is like $100 all the way up to over $1k
Yeah, the valve cover is an expensive thing, especially if you need it in a hurry.

Ideally, You'd want to do the job with the car parked somewhere it can stay for a few weeks; that way you can buy the gasket, take it apart and examine your existing valve cover to see if you need a new one. If you're lucky you can put the car back together on the spot with a new gasket, if you're unlucky you order a valve cover from one of the cheaper online stores; not from your local dealer who'll charge 30% - 50% more.
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      08-29-2018, 11:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 519.E82 View Post
I have no issues doing it my self and i was going to put the car away for winter storage in October so its really just do i want to put it away now for the sake of the car and get it fixed. The only thing is the price range for the fix depending on the severity is like $100 all the way up to over $1k
Yeah, the valve cover is an expensive thing, especially if you need it in a hurry.

Ideally, You'd want to do the job with the car parked somewhere it can stay for a few weeks; that way you can buy the gasket, take it apart and examine your existing valve cover to see if you need a new one. If you're lucky you can put the car back together on the spot with a new gasket, if you're unlucky you order a valve cover from one of the cheaper online stores; not from your local dealer who'll charge 30% - 50% more.
Should i worry about any dust getting in while the cover is off?
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      08-30-2018, 12:27 AM   #12
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Should i worry about any dust getting in while the cover is off?
I'm afraid that's a question I'm unqualified to answer
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      08-30-2018, 05:03 AM   #13
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Why are we assuming the valve cover is cracked? This gasket is a really common failure on the N52. Dries out and starts to leak. Make sure you change the gasket on the VVT motor when you are there.

I also changed my spark plugs while there but not necessary.

Don't worry about Dust, dirt sure. you should clean the motor a little before you work on it anyways. Who likes to work on dirty engine parts?

The plastic valve covers are prone to PCV valve failures and a few have cracked. If you are doing the work yourself, you could consider have a new cover available and use it if you need, return other wise.

There are a few good write ups the describe the gasket change in detail. Pelican Parts
used to have on on their web site but there are a few others, Google.

You should not need a computer to reset the VVT adaptions and it's good advice to have a little sealant around to hold the gasket into the cover while trying to mount the cover. No need to change the bolts with the plastic covers.

good luck
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      08-30-2018, 10:29 AM   #14
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After 100k it’s very common for the valve cover to be brittle/cracked. If it’s not already cracked, it will either crack as its being removed or even more likely, crack while being torqued back down. For a part you want for another 100k, just go ahead and replace it and you’ll also replace the internal pcv valve.

Independent BMW shops will charge around $300-400 labor for it. I advice you replace the eccentric shaft sensor while it’s removed as well.
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      08-30-2018, 01:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjahl View Post
Why are we assuming the valve cover is cracked? This gasket is a really common failure on the N52. Dries out and starts to leak. Make sure you change the gasket on the VVT motor when you are there.

I also changed my spark plugs while there but not necessary.

Don't worry about Dust, dirt sure. you should clean the motor a little before you work on it anyways. Who likes to work on dirty engine parts?

The plastic valve covers are prone to PCV valve failures and a few have cracked. If you are doing the work yourself, you could consider have a new cover available and use it if you need, return other wise.

There are a few good write ups the describe the gasket change in detail. Pelican Parts
used to have on on their web site but there are a few others, Google.

You should not need a computer to reset the VVT adaptions and it's good advice to have a little sealant around to hold the gasket into the cover while trying to mount the cover. No need to change the bolts with the plastic covers.

good luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suhb View Post
After 100k it’s very common for the valve cover to be brittle/cracked. If it’s not already cracked, it will either crack as its being removed or even more likely, crack while being torqued back down. For a part you want for another 100k, just go ahead and replace it and you’ll also replace the internal pcv valve.

Independent BMW shops will charge around $300-400 labor for it. I advice you replace the eccentric shaft sensor while it’s removed as well.
So between the two of you basically, expect the worst fix everything and be prepared to spend over $1k
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      08-30-2018, 03:20 PM   #16
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I have some weeping in this area too and I'm at about 93K kms. Surely you can drive your car. BavAuto offer a 4 piece kit for US$44.80 and FCPEuro offer a kit with couple more pieces for US$58. For this amount of money, I would change the gasket myself hoping that the cover is not cracked. Wash the area with engine degreaser and LOW pressure water (or as instructed in videos-I haven't watched them yet). Good luck & keep us posted.
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      08-30-2018, 03:29 PM   #17
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I have some weeping in this area too and I'm at about 93K kms. Surely you can drive your car. BavAuto offer a 4 piece kit for US$44.80 and FCPEuro offer a kit with couple more pieces for US$58. For this amount of money, I would change the gasket myself hoping that the cover is not cracked. Wash the area with engine degreaser and LOW pressure water (or as instructed in videos-I haven't watched them yet). Good luck & keep us posted.
Its a gamble taking it apart because i don't know the extent of the damage till its apart. It also makes a really weird sound ive never heard before when i took it for a short drive. Im also booked at BMW sept 29 for the PCV recall but not liking how the car sounds/looks

Edit: it also seems besides the sounds, the oil leak is only on start-up? I had the car idling for a while and didn't see any drips or smoke, or after my short trip. The sound while driving i really can't tell if its engine or other but its almost like a metallic knocking (not the valve tick). I could only hear it around 40kmh - like 60kmh and i couldn't tell if its engine because as RPM rise so does the exhaust noise.
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      08-31-2018, 04:28 PM   #18
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I just had the same problem about 2 weeks ago, and yes 99.9% sure you need a new valve cover gasket, and make sure to buy the original (OEM) from the dealership (about $70) because the aftermarket one i bough did not sit well and luckily i noticed that something was off before reassembling the whole thing back.

This is a whole day job kind of a thing, and it's not necessarily hard but if you're not used to getting your hands dirty, don"t do it !!!! (its helpful to have a a buddy to help you but it not necessary) Here is a DIY video that gives you a better idea (just a suggestion, make sure you have sockets that are flexible, because some of the bolts are hard to reach area and you will need multiple size extensions and swivel sockets).

Also there are few other gaskets you should change while you are doing this (I can supply you with the part numbers if you are going to do this project) Im here to help if you need anything

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      08-31-2018, 08:46 PM   #19
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I just had the same problem about 2 weeks ago, and yes 99.9% sure you need a new valve cover gasket, and make sure to buy the original (OEM) from the dealership (about $70) because the aftermarket one i bough did not sit well and luckily i noticed that something was off before reassembling the whole thing back.

This is a whole day job kind of a thing, and it's not necessarily hard but if you're not used to getting your hands dirty, don"t do it !!!! (its helpful to have a a buddy to help you but it not necessary) Here is a DIY video that gives you a better idea (just a suggestion, make sure you have sockets that are flexible, because some of the bolts are hard to reach area and you will need multiple size extensions and swivel sockets).

Also there are few other gaskets you should change while you are doing this (I can supply you with the part numbers if you are going to do this project) Im here to help if you need anything

Thank you very much, any other things you recommend to do would be greatly appreciated. Im moving the car into storage this weekend, and then will start looking more into acquiring the parts
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      08-31-2018, 09:41 PM   #20
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Interesting, I am arms deep into this job right now. I am doing it with another person because honestly, you need another set of eyes when doing this job.

It's not as easy for a novice as the multiple forums make it out to be. I have researched this job for almost 2 weeks. It took me close to 5 hours to take the valve cover off.

The following thread has been my primary go to thread for this job, it discusses the pelican parts write-up (top notch) and the fcp euro write-up (decent). https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=990348
I have also used this thread - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1484438
They did a good job explaining the trouble areas. Note - the video is not worth spending 1.5 hrs watching.

My 2 biggest hang ups were the stupid breather hose clamp (backing the PCV hose from the breather valve in the back of the valve cover) and getting the metal spark plug tubes out with snap ring pliers. Moreover, the tight space in the back made it very difficult to remove the bolts in the rear, you need different extensions and swivels to reach back there.

Last but not least, even with making room by removing the wiper shield, the valve cover barely has enough clearance to remove. I kept on getting it stuck on the valve train, I had to wiggle the cover for over 45 minutes until I was finally able to get the fucker off.

My cost on the parts including the spark plug tubes have been $431 + a little over a hundred for tools needed to do the job. This job is not for the faint of heart, it's not difficult but very frustrating/time consuming. I was hoping to finish this up today but called it a day after taking the Valve cover off.

I was quoted 1300 by an indy for this job, they suspected the cover was cracked so I ordered the cover. I don't see any visible cracks on the old valve cover, however, I am still going to replace it since I have a new genuine VC and it is a plastic part known to crack over time. I'd recommend replacing it with a new VC, especially since you are more likely to damage it when removing, fortunately, I did not damage my old VC.

The plan is to install the new VC tomorrow - hopefully with ease. I'll report back with my findings.

In regards to your original post, No - you are not screwed. My VC was leaking for over a year before I decided to replace it. I only noticed the smell of oil burning once in the past 12 months. You are fine if you wait it out. I finally decided to replace it because the oil was starting to get into my spark plugs (noticed it when I did the spark plugs). The 128i has 90k miles on her.

Cheers.

Last edited by Raz108; 08-31-2018 at 09:47 PM..
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      08-31-2018, 09:49 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Interesting, I am arms deep into this job right now. I am doing it with another person because honestly, you need another set of eyes when doing this job.

It's not as easy for a novice as the multiple forums make it out to be. I have researched this job for almost 2 weeks. It took me close to 5 hours to take the valve cover off.

The following thread has been my primary go to thread for this job, it discusses the pelican parts write-up (top notch) and the fcp euro write-up (decent). https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=990348
I have also used this thread - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1484438
They did a good job explaining the trouble areas. Note - the video is not worth spending 1.5 hrs watching.

My 2 biggest hang ups were the stupid breather hose clamp (backing the PCV hose from the breather valve in the back of the valve cover) and getting the metal spark plug tubes out with snap ring pliers. Moreover, the tight space in the back made it very difficult to remove the bolts in the rear, you need different extensions and swivels to reach back there.

Last but not least, even with making room by removing the wiper shield, the valve cover barely has enough clearance to remove. I kept on getting it stuck on the valve train, I had to wiggle the cover for over 45 minutes until I was finally able to get the fucker off.

My cost on the parts including the spark plug tubes have been $431 + a little over a hundred for tools needed to do the job. This job is not for the faint of heart, it's not difficult but very frustrating/time consuming. I was hoping to finish this up today but called it a day after taking the Valve cover off.

I was quoted 1300 by an indy for this job, they suspected the cover was cracked so I ordered the cover. I don't see any visible cracks on the old valve cover, however, I am still going to replace it since I have a new genuine VC and it is a plastic part known to crack over time. I'd recommend replacing it with a new VC, especially since you are more likely to damage it when removing, fortunately, I did not damage my old VC.

The plan is to install the new VC tomorrow - hopefully with ease. I'll report back with my findings.

Cheers.
Awesome, thank you very much. I have quite a lot of tools available but haven't looked into all required
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      08-31-2018, 10:42 PM   #22
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Reading this is perplexing. The valve cover on my E46 takes about 20-30 minutes to get off. Just as easy getting back on, too.
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