My PS2 turbo swap has begun (finally)

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

Can you please talk a little more about how you do this process? Do you just unplug the injectors and hit the start button? Then how do you stop the car from cranking after that?

Yes, just unplug the injector wires and push the start and release when done. If I remember correctly the car will crank for ~10 to 20 seconds then stop on it's own when you hold the start button. I did this about 3 times inspecting for oil leaks after each time, and figured it was more than primed. I found this method by Google searching and found this result: "https://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24400866&postcount=3". It made sense to me and worked. I do wish there was an easier way like removing a single fuse or something. I didn't mention this procedure in my thread, yet, because I assumed I was the only person not knowing but this procedure, lol.

I recently watched the video by the dude with the 135i N54 & top mount single turbo and Dr Race intake changing the injectors on his 335i, so I knew what I needed to do.

And thanks for responding with the price you paid for the indy shop to swap your flywheel. I know my cost will probably be different based on my location but I at least have an idea of what someone else paid. I also planned to provide the new bolts and anything else needed to do the swap so I know the correct parts are being used. The flywheel should arrive on Tuesday and am looking forward to getting the swapped and getting a tune!

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

I am going to a track day in a couple of weeks so that will be a great test on how it performs.

I definitely am interested in reading about your impressions and results for the track day. We have our first auto-cross practice in less than 1 month, so I'm trying to get as much of this sorted out before then, however it will probably be cold and wet so I'm not in that much of a hurry. Last year the February practice was cancelled because it snowed on the venue, lol. I still need to order new tires as well.

[ferocity02]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

Just ordered an M4 flywheel from Ebay for $500 including sales tax, not a bad price. Just need to find an indy to install it so I can get a tune.

What's the PN?

Are you having issues or did you order it as a preventive measure?

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

What's the PN?

Are you having issues or did you order it as a preventive measure?

The part number is 21202283829. Not having any issues yet, but am doing it for 2 reasons; 1. so I don't get the misfire the DCT gets with higher boost at higher rpms and 2. to loose 10 pounds of rotating mass from the drive train.

[JPuehl]

I found something interesting while looking at JB4 logs, I did post this with the logs on the N54TECH forum with the hopes of getting some feedback (however I'm not holding my breath hoping to get "useful" feedback, lol).

I logged 2 3rd gear pulls using map 6; the 1st at 18 psi at all rpms and the 2nd at 17, and I notice in both the logs at 5900/6000 rpm there's a 1/2 psi drop and I can't figure out why, nothing stands out in the logs. This is a new PS2 install and realize it's happening at 6k, but I don't know/see the reason why it's happening.

I noticed that after the drop at 6k rpm the PSI pretty much flattens out, but at the lower rate. Not sure what's going on or if it's even worth being concerned about. I'm going to check again this weekend for boost leaks. I have the VRSF turbo outlet pipe that is painted with a "wrinkle" kind of paint that required me to really tighten the hose clamp to stop leaks at that connection. I'm going to strip that paint off.

[JPuehl]

It's been almost 1 week and so far I'm liking the PS2, at least what the logs are showing, it's been raining almost every day since I completed the install so I really had a chance to play yet.

Here's a pic of a line graph I made in Excel of a bunch of logs before and after the PS2. The top line is the PS2 at 18 psi at all rpms, the 2nd line is the PS2 at 17 psi and all the remaining lines are the OEM turbo. The boost threshold seems to be much better on the OEM turbo and I'm not sure if there's anything I can do about that.

[houtan]

What intake are you using? If it’s anything that uses the stock coupler between the intake that goes over the engine and the pipe that runs above the turbo, the silicone coupler is probably collapsing. If your wgdc is climbing very high when the boost is dropping then I would say maybe boost leak.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

What intake are you using? If it’s anything that uses the stock coupler between the intake that goes over the engine and the pipe that runs above the turbo, the silicone coupler is probably collapsing. If your wgdc is climbing very high when the boost is dropping then I would say maybe boost leak.

I have the BMS intake which uses the OEM rubber coupler and OEM plastic pipe between the coupler and the inlet pipe, which is the VRSF inlet. And that's the weird thing, the WGDC, AFR, timing, everything looks within reason before and after the psi drop.

I'm not happy with the VRSF turbo outlet, which is a bunch of "bends" welded together and ~might~ be causing a restriction. I'll probably switch back to the OEM pipe to test over the weekend. But I'm not sure the VRSF outlet is causing any issues.

[houtan]

You have the log on datazap? I don’t think you have the issue I was talking about. When the stock coupler collapses in the upper rev range, the car literally falls flat on its face. Have you played with duty bias in that area?

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

You have the log on datazap? I don’t think you have the issue I was talking about. When the stock coupler collapses in the upper rev range, the car literally falls flat on its face. Have you played with duty bias in that area?

The logs are not on datazap as they are the JB4 logs, they're CSV files and can be opened in Excel. Just change the extension from TXT to CSV is you want to look at them. The car doesn't feel like it's nosing-over. I haven't played with the WGDC settings yet as I just compared the 2 logs this morning and noticed the difference. I might play with them this evening on my way home from work.

[houtan]

Datazap accepts csv and it’s free. Much easier to use than excel for log reviews imo.

[JPuehl]

I have logs on datazap now.

https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/ps2-18-psi?log=0&data=1-4
https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/ps2-17-psi?log=0&data=1-4

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

I have logs on datazap now.

https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/ps2-18-psi?log=0&data=1-4
https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/ps2-17-psi?log=0&data=1-4

For the love of your engine please get a proper tune. Timing is basically at 0 on all 6 cylinders because of timing corrections (knock). Throw that JB4 trash out. It's literally only useful for meth/add-ons. Do all your tuning custom via a bef if you plan to keep the jb4.

Your STFT are also almost maxed out right now so if you try to run any more than 17-18psi the car is just going to lean out. You're out of room with the current tables to add more fuel. Speaking of lean, post spool, the car doesn't richen up to <13:1 until almost 4,800 rpm.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

For the love of your engine please get a proper tune. Timing is basically at 0 on all 6 cylinders because of timing corrections (knock). Throw that JB4 trash out. It's literally only useful for meth/add-ons. Do all your tuning custom via a bef if you plan to keep the jb4.

Your STFT are also almost maxed out right now so if you try to run any more than 17-18psi the car is just going to lean out. You're out of room with the current tables to add more fuel. Speaking of lean, post spool, the car doesn't richen up to <13:1 until almost 4,800 rpm.

I know, I know. I've only been live on the PS2 for almost a week, one thing at a time. I do plan to get a real tune and ditch the JB4 but it's what I have for now. I do have the BMS JB4 BEF but doubt it's enough. I have the BMS BEF bin file and am looking at it and might try to plan with the fueling. I need to do some reading about the fueling before I make any changes.

Hopefully on Monday I'll be increasing my octane a bit to help with timing.

[JPuehl]

I just found E85 about 45 minutes from my home. Think I'll make a stop there this weekend with a 5 gallon can to mix in the gas already in my car.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by houtan

There is a great sticky thread on spark plugs in the N55 subforum on s p o o l s t r e e t (https://*********************/thread...se.2160/page-3). Per bbnks's recommendation, i went with NGK 97506 SILZKBR8D8S. Initially i gapped them at .025. After the flywheel i had a weird timing issue that turned out to be tune related, but as an attempted fix i gapped the plugs to .020. Car ran fine at both gaps.

Yeah sure. I am using the professional and purchased through amazon. so the app hasn't work for me and would consistently crash... until today. i just tried it again and it finally works.

This past weekend was like Christmas for me; I received the M4 flywheel, a new N20 TMAP which I haven't installed yet, the spark plugs you mentioned installed with a gap of .025, and the BOOSTang. I filled up Sunday evening and added 6oz of the BOOSTang and have been checking the JB4 logs and my timing looks much better, at 17psi anyway. This stuff might actually work. I'm going to try it at 18psi and see what timing looks like. I still need to work on the AFR however. I'm still looking for a confident Indy to install the flywheel then will get a real tune but will play with it myself in the meantime. Thanks for the help so far.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

For the love of your engine please get a proper tune. Timing is basically at 0 on all 6 cylinders because of timing corrections (knock). Throw that JB4 trash out. It's literally only useful for meth/add-ons. Do all your tuning custom via a bef if you plan to keep the jb4.

Your STFT are also almost maxed out right now so if you try to run any more than 17-18psi the car is just going to lean out. You're out of room with the current tables to add more fuel. Speaking of lean, post spool, the car doesn't richen up to <13:1 until almost 4,800 rpm.

I do plan to go with a real tune but would like to make some adjustments to the BMS BEF I have and based on your comments I need to richen the AFR on the lower RPMs, just need to figure out what to adjust. I have the BIN and XDF files and the TunerPro app and have been looking at the timing and fueling tables, just need to figure out how they are used, mostly what the X axis is, the numbers # - 180, not the RPMs which is the Y axis.

[JPuehl]

While I'm waiting to get a "custom" tune I'm going to try adjusting the JB4 BEF, mostly in the AFR area. I compared the JB4 BEF bin to the OEM bin and found the following changes in the "Fuel (Bank 1)" map. The values highlighted in green are richer than OEM and the red is leaner then OEM. I need to figure out the area I am in when I do a 3rd gear log and make some adjustments, flash the map and take a log. Worst case is I make it worse and I reflash the JB4 BEF.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

For the love of your engine please get a proper tune. Timing is basically at 0 on all 6 cylinders because of timing corrections (knock). Throw that JB4 trash out. It's literally only useful for meth/add-ons. Do all your tuning custom via a bef if you plan to keep the jb4.

Your STFT are also almost maxed out right now so if you try to run any more than 17-18psi the car is just going to lean out. You're out of room with the current tables to add more fuel. Speaking of lean, post spool, the car doesn't richen up to <13:1 until almost 4,800 rpm.

What would you suggest AFRs should look like? I did a Google search and found someone talking about AFRs targeting low 12/high 11s, but didn't really talk about what a curve should look like. I believe he was talking about an N54 but should be similar to an N55. The DME does it by load, which I can change on the BMS JB4 BEF if I have an idea of what it should look like, we at least a way to tell if I'm too lean/rich. I know a blacked sparkplug would indicate a rich condition what doesn't say where it was rich.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by JPuehl

What would you suggest AFRs should look like? I did a Google search and found someone talking about AFRs targeting low 12/high 11s, but didn't really talk about what a curve should look like. I believe he was talking about an N54 but should be similar to an N55. The DME does it by load, which I can change on the BMS JB4 BEF if I have an idea of what it should look like, we at least a way to tell if I'm too lean/rich. I know a blacked sparkplug would indicate a rich condition what doesn't say where it was rich.

Can't speak on that. I'd take a look through the diy tuning threads you can find. There is a lengthy one on Spool & Street forum.

All I know is looking at your log you're already running on a the leaner side of things and fuel trims are close to being maxed so you could easily end up running even leaner without some revisions to the base map.

[houtan]

Didn’t realize you had posted updates last week. Any new logs with the new plugs/octane? I personally have my afr trend towards a Target of 12.2 in the upper revs.

I went to chuckwalla raceway last weekend and ran boostane to get to 99 octane 18psi, 11 degrees of timing. Car didn’t miss a beat. I would still like to run e85 at some point but I need PI or the helix od (which I am not fully convinced is an option yet). But for now, the boostane is working great.

Also, if I remember correctly, there are two fuel bank tables, make sure they match.

[JPuehl]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Can't speak on that. I'd take a look through the diy tuning threads you can find. There is a lengthy one on Spool & Street forum.

All I know is looking at your log you're already running on a the leaner side of things and fuel trims are close to being maxed so you could easily end up running even leaner without some revisions to the base map.

Thanks, I'll go look at the Spl. Str. forum. I did see that the BMS JB4 BEF leaned the AFRs on the top end so I think I'm going to change at least the top end in the "load" areas I'm in back to OEM, and see what happens.