Suspension refresh questions

rowsdower · 04-09-2018, 08:55 AM

My 2011 128i w/sport package is due for a suspension refresh. At 78k miles now and both struts are blown and leaking oil on my garage floor (oil leaks are a recent theme with this car...). This is not my daily driver and will see mostly street driving, but some track time as well. I'm looking for something that can soak up expansion joints without too much trouble, but can also do ok on track. I would like as small a drop as possible, though I know most aftermarket options will drop the car somewhat. I've searched and read a bunch on this topic but have a few questions I couldn't find.

I see the B12 kit is recommended a lot, but can't find it online. I can find the B8 shocks/struts and springs separately. The Koni/Eibach kit is on sale on TireRack now and would end up around $100-150 cheaper than the Bilsteins. Thoughts on the Konis vs Bilsteins from anyone who has run them both for a while, including track time? Are Bilsteins better and worth the extra cost?

I'm considering the Whiteline 2-piece RSFBs and M3 front control arms. Just wondering if it makes the most sense to do these parts at the same time, or if it is not a big deal to add them later.

This is my first time doing suspension work. What tools will I need? I'm looking at this strut spring compressor, but not sure what other suspension-specific tools I'll need.

I've gone through the suspension diagrams on RealOEM and gathered all the supporting parts/hardware I'll need to order. One question on bumpstops - will I need to buy new ones or are they generally reusable? My understanding is Bilsteins have these built in but Konis do not.

desertman123 · 04-09-2018, 09:12 AM

For the struts up front you're gonna need a steering knuckle spreader. Schwaben makes a good one. You'll also need a coil spring compressor, which you can just rent at Auto parts stores

Not necessary, but an electric impact makes jobs wayyyyy quicker.

And I'd just buy new bumpstops. Even if they're fine, they might not be in 3 years while all the other hardware is fine, ya know?

Matticus91 · 04-09-2018, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertman123

For the struts up front you're gonna need a steering knuckle spreader. Schwaben makes a good one. You'll also need a coil spring compressor, which you can just rent at Auto parts stores

Not necessary, but an electric impact makes jobs wayyyyy quicker.

And I'd just buy new bumpstops. Even if they're fine, they might not be in 3 years while all the other hardware is fine, ya know?

I'll second all of desertman123s suggestions and also throw in that the B12 kit isn't available because it's not being made right now. It's been on backorder globally for many months. The Koni kit is very comparable but the drop on both kits is pretty low, if you're running stock wheel/tire sizes you'll be fine but if you have aftermarket or plan to upgrade you'll need to be careful not to go to aggressive on offset or tire width, specifically in the rear.

I'm running B8's and BMW Perf springs, T2 front and T3 rear. Much stiffer and only a 1/2" drop from the BMW Sport springs found in the stock 135i M-Sport. It's a full 1 inch drop from stock non-M-sport suspension. Perfect DD + occasional fun time setup IMO.

Some info on my install/config and I included a link to a great install video by ECS here too. Installation procedure for e82/e92 is identical:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1447749

chris_flies · 04-09-2018, 11:50 AM

I've got Koni Sport (Yellow) shocks and Eibach OE Sport springs (Now Pro Kit, I think), I'm very happy. It rides much more solidly than before, but it isn't anywhere near spine-rattling or tooth-chattering like some really prepped-out cars I've been in (a 260Z race car

). A very reasonably-priced setup, and I think the build quality is excellent. I don't have any rubbing (unless I have my spacers on the rear) or scraping issues (unless a wild Speedbumpus gigantus appears). I'm running on 225/45R17's, and I think the whole system works together really well. I also have all the M control arms, a 15mm rear sway bar, Dinan camber plates, Whiteline subframe bushing inserts, and did a nice alignment myself (DIY coming).

While you're in the rear area, I'd look into doing a beefier sway bar (makes the car feel more tossable), subframe bushings, and maybe some M control arms to make it all feel a bit more tied-down. Up front, definitely replace all the hardware. I'd also say to get some Dinan plates, as they completely changed the character of the car, making it more eager, much grippier, more communicative, and they don't make any noise.

I got the Schwaben tool, but it didn't work, and I had to use a crowbar gently, just FYI. Spring compressors are a must, unless you're getting coilovers (I think). They generally don't ship assembled struts, unfortunately. As desertman123 pointed out, an Electric Impact gun will make your whole world that much better. I have a Kobalt one now, and I don't know what I'd do without it now.

tock172 · 04-09-2018, 04:42 PM

All components of the B12 kit are still being manufactured and sold, you just have to buy them separately. The actual Bilstein/Eibach B12 kit was never a particularly good deal anyway, especially if you also want to run the sway bars.

My vote is to go with the Bilstein/Eibach components. I've run Koni, H&R and others before, and I keep coming back to Bilstein sport dampers (now called Performance Plus) and Eibach springs and sways. I've experienced high failure rates with Koni shocks in addition to a few that were DOA from TireRack, and I also find that Eibach springs provide a much more compliant ride for street driving that is still tight and controlled on track.

rowsdower · 04-09-2018, 09:19 PM

Thanks guys. I did the math wrong before - factoring in not needing new bumpstops if I go with the Bilsteins, the difference is about $30 so I'll probably just go with the Bilsteins. The only problem is the B8s are on backorder, but I can wait for the parts to come in.

In terms of tools, I'll buy the knuckle spreader and rent the spring compressor from Autozone or O'Reilly.

I'm definitely buying the camber plates but still unsure about the rear subframe bushings and M3 front arms. Is it short-sighted to do the struts, then the M3 arms in a few months? Meaning will I need to re-do a lot of work if I do the control arms separately? Same for the rear - does the RSFB job require removing the rear suspension?

blue135 · 04-09-2018, 09:27 PM

Sorry to hijack, but has anybody had experience with the Koni FSD shocks? If so, what was your opinion of them? I am looking at refreshing my '08 E88. Do not really want to change ride height, but do want to upgrade handling from the original without affecting the ride too much.

gjm120 · 04-09-2018, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowsdower

Thanks guys. I did the math wrong before - factoring in not needing new bumpstops if I go with the Bilsteins, the difference is about $30 so I'll probably just go with the Bilsteins. The only problem is the B8s are on backorder, but I can wait for the parts to come in.

In terms of tools, I'll buy the knuckle spreader and rent the spring compressor from Autozone or O'Reilly.

I'm definitely buying the camber plates but still unsure about the rear subframe bushings and M3 front arms. Is it short-sighted to do the struts, then the M3 arms in a few months? Meaning will I need to re-do a lot of work if I do the control arms separately? Same for the rear - does the RSFB job require removing the rear suspension?

If you are going to do the M front arms, do it when you do the struts. Removing the arms makes the strut removal easier. Plus you'll save an alignment as it should be done when you change springs and change to M front control arms.

Gangplank · 04-09-2018, 11:27 PM

What's your budget? For a bit more you can step up to true coil overs with Ohlins R&T or TCK Single Adjustable. Both let you set the ride height where you want. I have the Ohlins and it's a great set up. The TCK is great too I hear.

rowsdower · 04-10-2018, 06:55 AM

Budget isn't an issue, but I'm not sure I'll notice the difference between a $1,200 setup and a $2,200 setup. Nearly all of my track time is on motorcycles so I'm only beginning to understand car suspension. For now, I think an upgraded strut/spring combo should be good vs coilovers. Ride height adjustability sounds nice but it isn't worth that extra cost (to me).

From the DIYs I'm reading, I don't think the RSFBs need to be done at the same time so I'll do that as a separate project.

chris_flies · 04-10-2018, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowsdower

Budget isn't an issue, but I'm not sure I'll notice the difference between a $1,200 setup and a $2,200 setup. Nearly all of my track time is on motorcycles so I'm only beginning to understand car suspension. For now, I think an upgraded strut/spring combo should be good vs coilovers. Ride height adjustability sounds nice but it isn't worth that extra cost (to me).

From the DIYs I'm reading, I don't think the RSFBs need to be done at the same time so I'll do that as a separate project.

I completely understand, I was looking for a budget-ish setup, simply because the car a) needed new shocks desperately and b) I wanted a solid improvement in performance, and I got both

. Eventually, when these Konis inevitably wear-out, I should be in a position to spring for something much more high-end, possibly coilovers...

Whiteline makes bushing inserts that are really good substitutes, especially for $45, and a really easy thing to install. I still have M bushings to install (front positions are a PITA to install), but I haven't had any problems with the inserts.

A brief run-down of the install:
You just need two jackstands and a floor jack. You loosen the two forward bolts (9/16") with the diff supported by the floor jack, lower the jack (watch out for the brake lines and exhaust), drop in the inserts, jack the subframe back up, install the bolts. Loosen the two rears with the diff supported, drop the jack (watch for the exhaust), drop in the inserts, jack the subframe back up, reinstall bolts. Torque all four to 79 lb-ft. Easy peasy!

rowsdower · 04-10-2018, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I completely understand, I was looking for a budget-ish setup, simply because the car a) needed new shocks desperately and b) I wanted a solid improvement in performance, and I got both

. Eventually, when these Konis inevitably wear-out, I should be in a position to spring for something much more high-end, possibly coilovers...

This is where I'm at too. I planned to track the car with the stock suspension some more and figure out what I didn't like about the stock suspension on track, and make a decision based on that. But since they struts are blown I don't want to wait any longer. The inserts sound tempting!

Mr Gasser · 04-10-2018, 11:55 AM

I put these on mine and the rear frame is very stiff now:
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...=KDT917&sq=632

mfindigital · 04-10-2018, 12:18 PM

Koni Yellows are fantastic for road/track usage. I've never had them on my 1 series, but have had them on two previous cars I tracked (Mazdaspeed 3 and sr20det 240sx). Yellows with good springs will hang with most any Coilover setup.

DarthFader · 04-10-2018, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue135

Sorry to hijack, but has anybody had experience with the Koni FSD shocks? If so, what was your opinion of them? I am looking at refreshing my '08 E88. Do not really want to change ride height, but do want to upgrade handling from the original without affecting the ride too much.

I have them on my 135 with stock springs and I like them. The car is a daily driver and sees some spirited driving but nothing competitive (I haven't done any autocross or track with them). The FSD are smoother than stock yet hold up well when pushing it on country roads/on ramps.

I feel the car actually puts the power down better with the FSD considering the bumpy roads in my area. I did put Dinan rear upper shock mounts on to gain a little travel.

NewDirection · 05-26-2020, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarthFader

I have them on my 135 with stock springs and I like them. The car is a daily driver and sees some spirited driving but nothing competitive (I haven't done any autocross or track with them). The FSD are smoother than stock yet hold up well when pushing it on country roads/on ramps.

I feel the car actually puts the power down better with the FSD considering the bumpy roads in my area. I did put Dinan rear upper shock mounts on to gain a little travel.

Sorry to resurrect but of key importance, have you been able to fit the Dinan kit on a convertible 135?

04-09-2018, 08:55 AM	#1
rowsdower Captain 641 Rep 695 Posts Drives: 2011 128i 6MT Sport Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Suspension refresh questions My 2011 128i w/sport package is due for a suspension refresh. At 78k miles now and both struts are blown and leaking oil on my garage floor (oil leaks are a recent theme with this car...). This is not my daily driver and will see mostly street driving, but some track time as well. I'm looking for something that can soak up expansion joints without too much trouble, but can also do ok on track. I would like as small a drop as possible, though I know most aftermarket options will drop the car somewhat. I've searched and read a bunch on this topic but have a few questions I couldn't find. I see the B12 kit is recommended a lot, but can't find it online. I can find the B8 shocks/struts and springs separately. The Koni/Eibach kit is on sale on TireRack now and would end up around $100-150 cheaper than the Bilsteins. Thoughts on the Konis vs Bilsteins from anyone who has run them both for a while, including track time? Are Bilsteins better and worth the extra cost? I'm considering the Whiteline 2-piece RSFBs and M3 front control arms. Just wondering if it makes the most sense to do these parts at the same time, or if it is not a big deal to add them later. This is my first time doing suspension work. What tools will I need? I'm looking at this strut spring compressor, but not sure what other suspension-specific tools I'll need. I've gone through the suspension diagrams on RealOEM and gathered all the supporting parts/hardware I'll need to order. One question on bumpstops - will I need to buy new ones or are they generally reusable? My understanding is Bilsteins have these built in but Konis do not.
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04-09-2018, 09:12 AM	#2
desertman123 E82 Mudflap Ambassador 2214 Rep 2,219 Posts Drives: '08 128i Join Date: May 2016 Location: Orlando, FL iTrader: (0) Garage List 1992 Honda Beat [9.50] 2008 BMW 128i [10.00] 2014 BMW 528i [10.00]	For the struts up front you're gonna need a steering knuckle spreader. Schwaben makes a good one. You'll also need a coil spring compressor, which you can just rent at Auto parts stores Not necessary, but an electric impact makes jobs wayyyyy quicker. And I'd just buy new bumpstops. Even if they're fine, they might not be in 3 years while all the other hardware is fine, ya know?
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04-09-2018, 11:50 AM	#4
chris_flies Sideways and Smiling 3027 Rep 2,860 Posts Drives: In Exuberance Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Rosamond, CA USA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2012 BMW E91 328i [0.00]	I've got Koni Sport (Yellow) shocks and Eibach OE Sport springs (Now Pro Kit, I think), I'm very happy. It rides much more solidly than before, but it isn't anywhere near spine-rattling or tooth-chattering like some really prepped-out cars I've been in (a 260Z race car ). A very reasonably-priced setup, and I think the build quality is excellent. I don't have any rubbing (unless I have my spacers on the rear) or scraping issues (unless a wild Speedbumpus gigantus appears). I'm running on 225/45R17's, and I think the whole system works together really well. I also have all the M control arms, a 15mm rear sway bar, Dinan camber plates, Whiteline subframe bushing inserts, and did a nice alignment myself (DIY coming). While you're in the rear area, I'd look into doing a beefier sway bar (makes the car feel more tossable), subframe bushings, and maybe some M control arms to make it all feel a bit more tied-down. Up front, definitely replace all the hardware. I'd also say to get some Dinan plates, as they completely changed the character of the car, making it more eager, much grippier, more communicative, and they don't make any noise. I got the Schwaben tool, but it didn't work, and I had to use a crowbar gently, just FYI. Spring compressors are a must, unless you're getting coilovers (I think). They generally don't ship assembled struts, unfortunately. As desertman123 pointed out, an Electric Impact gun will make your whole world that much better. I have a Kobalt one now, and I don't know what I'd do without it now. __________________ 2012 BMW 328i 6-Speed Wagon \| Deep Sea Blue with Grey Dakota Leather \| Manual Swap, 330i Intake + Tune, 3.15 Helical LSD, Öhlins R&T (SOLD) 2009 BMW 128i 6-Speed Coupé \| Monaco Blue with Black Sensatec \| chris_flies' 128i thread
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04-09-2018, 04:42 PM	#5
tock172 Beachtown Bill Collector 582 Rep 1,062 Posts Drives: 2012 135i Join Date: May 2011 Location: San Diego iTrader: (1) Garage List 2012 BMW 135i [0.00] 1999 Lexus LS400 [0.00] 1985 BMW 325e [0.00]	All components of the B12 kit are still being manufactured and sold, you just have to buy them separately. The actual Bilstein/Eibach B12 kit was never a particularly good deal anyway, especially if you also want to run the sway bars. My vote is to go with the Bilstein/Eibach components. I've run Koni, H&R and others before, and I keep coming back to Bilstein sport dampers (now called Performance Plus) and Eibach springs and sways. I've experienced high failure rates with Koni shocks in addition to a few that were DOA from TireRack, and I also find that Eibach springs provide a much more compliant ride for street driving that is still tight and controlled on track. __________________ 2012 BMW 135i Space Grey Metallic M-Sport DCT Dinan S2
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04-09-2018, 09:19 PM	#6
rowsdower Captain 641 Rep 695 Posts Drives: 2011 128i 6MT Sport Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Thanks guys. I did the math wrong before - factoring in not needing new bumpstops if I go with the Bilsteins, the difference is about $30 so I'll probably just go with the Bilsteins. The only problem is the B8s are on backorder, but I can wait for the parts to come in. In terms of tools, I'll buy the knuckle spreader and rent the spring compressor from Autozone or O'Reilly. I'm definitely buying the camber plates but still unsure about the rear subframe bushings and M3 front arms. Is it short-sighted to do the struts, then the M3 arms in a few months? Meaning will I need to re-do a lot of work if I do the control arms separately? Same for the rear - does the RSFB job require removing the rear suspension?
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04-09-2018, 09:27 PM	#7
blue135 Captain 368 Rep 650 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Convertible Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Sarasota, FL iTrader: (1)	Sorry to hijack, but has anybody had experience with the Koni FSD shocks? If so, what was your opinion of them? I am looking at refreshing my '08 E88. Do not really want to change ride height, but do want to upgrade handling from the original without affecting the ride too much.
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04-09-2018, 11:27 PM	#9
Gangplank Brigadier General 1541 Rep 3,071 Posts Drives: 2011 e82 135i n55 Sport w/ DCT Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Vero Beach, FL iTrader: (2) Garage List 2011 135i [0.00]	What's your budget? For a bit more you can step up to true coil overs with Ohlins R&T or TCK Single Adjustable. Both let you set the ride height where you want. I have the Ohlins and it's a great set up. The TCK is great too I hear. __________________ 2011 135i w/ DCT \| ZSP Sport Pkg \| PPK \| Ohlins R
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04-10-2018, 06:55 AM	#10
rowsdower Captain 641 Rep 695 Posts Drives: 2011 128i 6MT Sport Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Budget isn't an issue, but I'm not sure I'll notice the difference between a $1,200 setup and a $2,200 setup. Nearly all of my track time is on motorcycles so I'm only beginning to understand car suspension. For now, I think an upgraded strut/spring combo should be good vs coilovers. Ride height adjustability sounds nice but it isn't worth that extra cost (to me). From the DIYs I'm reading, I don't think the RSFBs need to be done at the same time so I'll do that as a separate project.
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04-10-2018, 11:55 AM	#13
Mr Gasser First Lieutenant 73 Rep 341 Posts Drives: 135i 09 M-Sport Black on Black Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	I put these on mine and the rear frame is very stiff now: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...=KDT917&sq=632 __________________ Metallic Black on Black 2009 135i, new waterpump, OFHGs, and VC gasket...RB turbo PCV valve (ooo), NGK performance plugs...V3Cobb access port stage 2+FMIC, Injen intake, Mishimoto clone FMIC, ARM charge pipe, ARM downpipes, Whiteline subframe bushings
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04-10-2018, 12:18 PM	#14
mfindigital Lieutenant 349 Rep 574 Posts Drives: 2011 135i Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: los angeles iTrader: (0)	Koni Yellows are fantastic for road/track usage. I've never had them on my 1 series, but have had them on two previous cars I tracked (Mazdaspeed 3 and sr20det 240sx). Yellows with good springs will hang with most any Coilover setup.
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