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      01-29-2013, 07:58 AM   #45
TheRuss
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Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I'm about to replace pads all round on my 135i and was wondering what the general consensus was regarding which bolts to remove to get the front caliper off? The big 10mm bolts, or the ones that go through the mounting bracket? Also, is Locktite necessary?

Also, I'm intending to just change pads and not the rotors, so what should I be doing after to "bed in" the pads?

Thanks
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      03-14-2013, 10:31 AM   #46
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OK, so I ended up doing this a few weeks ago and found that it's much easier to remove the caliper bracket than remove the caliper from the bracket. I also just half undid one pin per caliper to get the new pads in.

One thing that I'm now considering is whether I should've greased anything in there? I've been reading that it's a bad idea to use copper slip on the backs of the pads because it can cause the piston seals to swell, but should I have greased the notches in the caliper where the pads slide back and forth? Or is it best to avoid grease near the brakes altogether?

Thanks in advance.
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      02-02-2014, 03:43 PM   #47
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edit: figured it out.
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      04-23-2014, 11:06 AM   #48
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Just for future DIYers, I found this youtube exceptionally helpful:


Also, regarding the 10mm hex bolts and torque specs, I'm not sure over-tightening is even possible. I tightened mine until the caliper was flush with the bracket. At that point, they can't turn any further and they aren't any harder to loosen than they were the first time I did it. There is consistent resistance the entire time they are going in, and then there is significant resistance (they won't turn anymore). Stop at that point...
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      04-24-2014, 12:54 PM   #49
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What a great video. Informative and packed with humor!

Thanks for the link.
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      05-07-2014, 09:58 PM   #50
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Just bought some ferodo 2500s. The rear pads do not have the mounting tabs that the stock pads came with. Can they be transferred?
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      01-10-2015, 01:07 PM   #51
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Resurrecting an old thread. Just did my brakes, replacing stock pads with PosiQuiet. Very good to have this thread, many thanks to all who have contributed. A few notes while this is fresh in my mind:

[*] Detach the front calipers at the rear (two bolts), where the bracket affixes to the strut, and not at the top at the hex bolts. I replaced the bolts.

[*] Loosen only one of the front caliper guide bolts about half-way to get the front pads out.

[*] Wear a mask or run the car through a vigorous car wash before replacing stock pads. I came inside to clean up and blew my nose and all kinds of black gunk came out. Clear my throat and spit that out, also black. Eee gad, my lungs didn't need this (I should have known better).

[*] My stock (very recently replaced by my selling dealer to CPO the car) rear pads included a shim (in addition to the pad backing plate), the front did not. I used those shims with the new pads too, not sure what they accomplish.

[*] Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey :O/

[*] Esco 10498, best jack stands I've ever owned. Hold the corner of the car with one, rest the front caliper on the other.

[*] Total time, about three hours

Last edited by mr.fabulous; 01-10-2015 at 06:30 PM..
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      07-11-2015, 05:53 PM   #52
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I have 98k on my car, and my front pads are finally due. Does anyone have any steps/tips on replacing the rotors? I don't expect any issues as I've been doing brakes for decades now, but just want to be sure.

Thanks

Last edited by siegester; 07-12-2015 at 02:55 PM..
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      08-14-2015, 10:36 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjof2003 View Post
I have 98k on my car, and my front pads are finally due. Does anyone have any steps/tips on replacing the rotors? I don't expect any issues as I've been doing brakes for decades now, but just want to be sure.

Thanks
Doing my rotors today. Once you follow the guide to remove the caliper (just like changing pads), just hang the caliper out of the way (and NOT by the brake line, use a bungie or ziptie or something).

With the caliper out of the way, the rotor is held on by a 6mm hex screw. Unscrew that, and the rotor pops right off. It may need a little PB Blaster and/or a whack from a hammer if it's got some corrosion behind it.

Install the new rotor and hex screw, and you are basically back to the process of changing pads.

All in all, it probably only adds about 5-10 min per corner compared to a brake pad change.

Also, having done my previous pads using the 10mm hex screw, I found it MUCH easier to remove the 18mm bolts behind the caliper that mount it to the hub. Once you break them free, you can spin them out by hand.

HTH!

Edit: 5-10 minutes per side for the fronts if they aren't too rusted. See my below post for the rears. A wee bit more involved compared to changing pads.
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      08-14-2015, 12:28 PM   #54
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How is this thread not a Sticky?!?
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      08-14-2015, 07:01 PM   #55
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Update on rears....

Because just changing the pads doesn't require caliper removal, replacing the rotor is a bit more work. The calipers mount with two 16mm bolts similar to the fronts.

Once they are off the rotor is nearly the same. If your parking brake is dragging or catching on the lip, use the star adjuster to wheel it back in. See the parking brake adjustment thread.

My rears were pretty rusted and it took me much longer than the fronts. With lots of PB Blaster, rubber mallet blows, and swearing they came off. I almost gave up partway through and was about to leave it for my mechanic, but putting it back together this far along seemed like too much work with nothing to show for it.

Agreed, this thread ought to be a sticky.
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      08-15-2015, 05:49 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kioneo View Post
Doing my rotors today. Once you follow the guide to remove the caliper (just like changing pads), just hang the caliper out of the way (and NOT by the brake line, use a bungie or ziptie or something).

With the caliper out of the way, the rotor is held on by a 6mm hex screw. Unscrew that, and the rotor pops right off. It may need a little PB Blaster and/or a whack from a hammer if it's got some corrosion behind it.

Install the new rotor and hex screw, and you are basically back to the process of changing pads.

All in all, it probably only adds about 5-10 min per corner compared to a brake pad change.

Also, having done my previous pads using the 10mm hex screw, I found it MUCH easier to remove the 18mm bolts behind the caliper that mount it to the hub. Once you break them free, you can spin them out by hand.

HTH!

Edit: 5-10 minutes per side for the fronts if they aren't too rusted. See my below post for the rears. A wee bit more involved compared to changing pads.
Thanks did the front brakes last night along with ps, brake, diff, and tranny fluids. It was all actually a lot easier than I'm use to with previous cars. I had to get new rotors as mine were 23.7mm (front)
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      09-05-2016, 10:38 PM   #57
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Definetly do not bother with the t40 locking pins. I bent 2 t40 sockets messing with them and one of the bolts is now stripped and siezed. I was trying to remove it and the teeth of the bolt head shattered. Little fragments litterally broke off around my t40 socket and went flying.

I see no reason not to used the 10mm Allen bolts to disconnect the caliper. A breaker bar make quick work of them. However, these bolts are definetly supposed to be 1 time use. Forget about locktite and everything mentioned... the reason they should be replaced is because they are aluminum and they also make use of a crush washer...

I'll disconnect the front calipers at the hub next time.
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      10-06-2016, 08:56 AM   #58
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Is it required to replace the sensor with new at time of pad replacement or does the old one just need a reset? Thanks!
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      10-06-2016, 03:28 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYA
Is it required to replace the sensor with new at time of pad replacement or does the old one just need a reset? Thanks!
As long as the sensor hasn't worn down (and tripped) it can be reused. The sensor doesn't need reset either. It doesn't monitor brake wear beyond tripping when it reaches a minimum thickness.
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      10-06-2016, 04:27 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kioneo View Post

Agreed, this thread ought to be a sticky.
Done!
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      10-06-2016, 08:13 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kioneo View Post
As long as the sensor hasn't worn down (and tripped) it can be reused. The sensor doesn't need reset either. It doesn't monitor brake wear beyond tripping when it reaches a minimum thickness.
Perfect info! 🙏
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      10-08-2016, 06:00 PM   #62
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And further to my post, I just received by EBC Redstuffs to do the rears tomorrow morning. HELP. They came with a metal bracket stuck on the back which appears to be removable. Can anyone confirm whether with EBC I'll use the OEM bracket over the back of the EBC? Doubled up? Or do I need to remove the EBC and replace with the OEM?
Also, the pads appear to have the sensor notch, but the brackets themselves do not have the notch. So that the bracket covers the notch cut into the pad. What's up with that?

Edit: Just pryed off the plate from the OEM that had the notch for the sensor and slapped that on after taking off the EBC one.

Last edited by CRYA; 10-09-2016 at 02:31 PM..
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      12-30-2016, 06:36 PM   #63
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Just finished swapping out the OEM pads for the Cool Carbons!

Thanks to this DIY for the help
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      12-30-2016, 07:14 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Just finished swapping out the OEM pads for the Cool Carbons!
can I please ask you to post a link to the pads you used...
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      12-30-2016, 08:02 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
can I please ask you to post a link to the pads you used...
Sure!

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_E...011_2012_2013/

I actually bought them through one of the vendors on this forum.

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      12-30-2016, 09:40 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Good stuff, appreciate the advise. Been running Centrex (Posi Quiet) for two years and I hate them (noisy and very dusty). It's about time to flush my brakes and so I'll swap the pads too. Thanks for the tip
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