Aftermarket sway bars.

[hot-j]

I am at the point is suspension/Chassis tuning where I need larger sway bars. Preferably adjustable. I currently have the following setup;

Ohlins DFV Coilovers
Vorshlag camber plates
Turner Front Spherical Thrust Arm Bushing
Dinan Rear Adjustable Toe Links
Turner rear strut brace
Mason Engineering front strut brace
Turner corner balance
-2° front camber
0° front toe
-1.8 rear camber
0.04° rear toe

The car is now very neutral, slight understeer on corner entry, neutral at the limit mid, and easy power oversteer out of the corner. Just where I like it. The problem is, in order to get the roll stiffness I like, I have to crank up the shock settings, making a bit too firm of a ride. Lowering the shock settings produces superior ride quality, but increases roll. This IS A STREET CAR, but I like it how I like it, and am willing to chase the ultimate setup for my intended use. So, in closing, my main question is, is there a front and rear adjustable kit available?

Group N M3 rear subframe bushings, and adjustable sway bar links will VERY LIKELY accompany these new hypothetical swaybars.

[Tinsta]

Eibach do some adjustable ones.. clicky

I run the front hotchkis one and oem e92 m3 rear bar, and its very stable/neutral - is coupled with kw v3 setup & powerflex bushes too.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Are you going to run a limited slip diff? With your set up, i would put on an oem e92 front bar.

[hot-j]

Currently I have the factory 1M diff in there. I do plan to upgrade, just can't afford to do it all @ once... and the diff is $$$.

Thank you Tinsta, will take a look.

[E30 Racer]

What do you use the car for (I.e., just street driving?) and what's your threshold for pain (i.e., ride quality, nvh, etc.).

What are your spring rates?

[HP Autosport]

If you like it where it is, why throw it all out of the window with new sway bars? Some body roll is not a bad thing. A larger front bar will just throw the balance off, anything larger than an OEM rear bar will make the 1M more tail happy than it already is.

The damping adjustments only slow down the rate of the roll, but doesn't take it away.

You could up the spring rates marginally and take a away some body roll.

[The Wind Breezes]

I would keep the stock bars unless you REALLY know what you're doing. Aside from the fact that you'll probably screw up your handling you run the risk of making the car do some really sketchy stuff if you're getting into triple digits and throwing it around (hopefully you're not doing that on the street but if you are please get a camera and post the vids once statute of limitations expires).

Also roll isn't a bad thing, it will give you good progressive mechanical grip and I doubt your car really has that much body roll. Also you want to pick the proper SPRINGS and then adjust the damping to suit, don't try to stiffen the car with damping when your springs are too soft or you'll run into a world of compromise and "this shit don't do what I wan." And what about hitting bumps on only one side of the car??? A stiffer bar will just upset the car and slow you down or worst case help you lose control...this is a STREET CAR and streets have a lot of bumps.

[hot-j]

Lots of good points here. Upping the spring rate a bit COULD be a solution, but is not cost efficient after alignment and corner balance if I get it wrong. This is the reason ADJUSTABLE sways are the important factor here. I won't just throw in a front, or just throw in a rear, OR throw in an adjustable front and NON adjustable rear. It would defeat the porpoise of what I am trying to achieve.
I understand too little body roll can diminish handling, but with the tires I am running RE-71R this is not a concern. They stick well and do as a result induce more body roll than the super soprts they replaced.

I have the Ohlins DFV with the springs that came with in there. The car has LOTS on nvh already and dont want more if I could help it. I could probably up the rates 50lbs front and 100lbs rear and be okay dampening wise on the stiffer settings I am running all the time anyway. But really want to use that as a last resort. This is why I'm shocked nobody offers adjustable sways, in the Porsche Community, they're pretty much standard on aftermarket sways to get the adjustability you require out of them.

Great responses guys, keep the think tank going!

[HP Autosport]

You have to corner balance and align again after a rear anti roll bar installation.

Track guys and tuners alike have ran the car without a rear bar, there is reason for that. Bigger is not always better. Even adjustable bars at the softest setting is way stiffer than stock.

[hot-j]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

You have to corner balance and align again after a rear anti roll bar installation.

Track guys and tuners alike have ran the car without a rear bar, there is reason for that. Bigger is not always better. Even adjustable bars at the softest setting is way stiffer than stock.

Thier spring rates have alot to do with that. But I guess that is your point.

I know I would have to do the CB and align again with a rear sb install.... but what I was saying is if the bar was adjustable, there would be opinions vs new springs being a set value. The standard USED TO BE the softest setting on adjustable bars would be equivalent to stock.

Anyways, Harold, would I have to do a swift spring, or is there a stock type available? The reason I am asking is because of my camber plates.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by hot-j

Thier spring rates have alot to do with that. But I guess that is your point.

I know I would have to do the CB and align again with a rear sb install.... but what I was saying is if the bar was adjustable, there would be opinions vs new springs being a set value. The standard USED TO BE the softest setting on adjustable bars would be equivalent to stock.

Anyways, Harold, would I have to do a swift spring, or is there a stock type available? The reason I am asking is because of my camber plates.

Even guys on softer rates can find removing the rear bar or going to a smaller bar help with traction coming out of the turns. The car can be driven out of the turns a lot better/faster and getting on the power much earlier without having to fight the rearend. This should partially apply to a street driven car as well, not just limited to a track car.

Not for the front, Ohlins doesn't offer any option. Rear is easy with a 65mm ID.

[MDORPHN]

FWIW, I'm running a stock rear bar but a stiffer E93 M3 (vert) bar in front.

Neil

[hot-j]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

FWIW, I'm running a stock rear bar but a stiffer E93 M3 (vert) bar in front.

Neil

What is the rest of your setup?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

FWIW, I'm running a stock rear bar but a stiffer E93 M3 (vert) bar in front.

Neil

Good choice!

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by hot-j

What is the rest of your setup?

MDORPHN – 2011 1 Series M Coupe
Owner: Neil Simon, Washington, DC
Sponsors: MOTIV Motorsport

1st in Class and 10th Overall – 2015 One Lap of America
Fastest Street Production - 2014 Tire Rack Ultimate Track Car Challenge
Fastest Street Car and Fastest Privateer BMW - 2013 Ultimate Track Car Challenge

MOTIV 750 single turbo & MOTIV/MHD flash tune
Fuel-IT Stage 2 LPFP
MOTIV port injection w/AEM control

Overrev Fabrication intercooler
Baffled oil pan and 34-row Setrab oil cooler
Mishimoto radiator
Trueform Technologies charge pipe with TiAL bov

JRZ RS Pro (front)/custom-valved RS1 (rear) w/Swift springs
E93 M3 front sway bar
Bimmerworld lower control arm bearings
Bimmerworld rear camber arm bearing kit
Vorshlag camber plates

SPEC twin disc clutch
BMS oil catch can
RB-modified PCV

AeroMotions R2 rear wing
Revozport-based splitter
Heat extractor hood vents
Cornering Brake Control disable

AP Racing Competition brakes
Cantrell Motorsports brake cooling backing plates
Bimmerworld wheel studs
18” X 10”/18” X 10.5” Apex ARC-8 wheels

4-point roll bar
Schroth 5-pt. harnesses
LUX 5000k angel eyes
MHD/Nexus 7 gauge display

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

MDORPHN – 2011 1 Series M Coupe
Owner: Neil Simon, Washington, DC
Sponsors: MOTIV Motorsport

1st in Class and 10th Overall – 2015 One Lap of America
Fastest Street Production - 2014 Tire Rack Ultimate Track Car Challenge
Fastest Street Car and Fastest Privateer BMW - 2013 Ultimate Track Car Challenge

MOTIV 750 single turbo & MOTIV/MHD flash tune
Fuel-IT Stage 2 LPFP
MOTIV port injection w/AEM control

Overrev Fabrication intercooler
Baffled oil pan and 34-row Setrab oil cooler
Mishimoto radiator
Trueform Technologies charge pipe with TiAL bov

JRZ RS Pro (front)/custom-valved RS1 (rear) w/Swift springs
E93 M3 front sway bar
Bimmerworld lower control arm bearings
Bimmerworld rear camber arm bearing kit
Vorshlag camber plates

SPEC twin disc clutch
BMS oil catch can
RB-modified PCV

AeroMotions R2 rear wing
Revozport-based splitter
Heat extractor hood vents
Cornering Brake Control disable

AP Racing Competition brakes
Cantrell Motorsports brake cooling backing plates
Bimmerworld wheel studs
18” X 10”/18” X 10.5” Apex ARC-8 wheels

4-point roll bar
Schroth 5-pt. harnesses
LUX 5000k angel eyes
MHD/Nexus 7 gauge display

Your spring rates will help OP determine the difference and what anti roll bars to go or not go with.

[hot-j]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Your spring rates will help OP determine the difference and what anti roll bars to go or not go with.

Yes, please. Sounds like one bad ass 1M.

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Your spring rates will help OP determine the difference and what anti roll bars to go or not go with.

I'm running Swift springs. 7" 392# front/10" 672# rear.

Neil

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

I'm running Swift springs. 7" 392# front/10" 672# rear.

Neil

Excellent set up. Keep the rear compliant and get on the power early!

[hot-j]

Harold, what are the Ohlins rates?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by hot-j

Harold, what are the Ohlins rates?

336 front and 672 rear.

[CarJunkie]

I am installing the Ohlins R+T kit this winter and already have Vorschlag Camber plates an the M3 convertible FSB. I plan to leave the RSB alone for all the reasons above . . . took one look at it and did not want to do all the R+R that would be required to change or delete it!

I plan to use camber adjustments to get the balance just right.