ST X Coilover Install

[WeryPert1]

Getting ready for a coilover install Memorial weekend. I've seen the other install threads here and this great ECS video; should be straightforward:

QUESTION: does everybody use these specialized strut nut sockets to properly torque the top strut nuts? Shown at 15:25 in that video. Looks like I would need a 22mm for the front and 16mm for the rear. I don't have those yet, although I did buy the front strut perch spreader socket tool already.

[jsigone]

I did this couple of weeks ago. For the install I used a pass thru socket set on the nut w/ the 8mm 3/8" drive ratchet going thru it to hold the stem from twisting. You may need a rubber strap wrench to get the OEM one out otherwise the body will just spin. One side needed vice grips to hold in place.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RU73K8...WDFCP7WTQ7DN9H

For the front, I didn't remove the control arm like in video aka mess up my toe setting drastically. You can use strut compressors on the OEM springs to clear the fender. Can rent them or just buy them for $40. You will need a jack under the front caliper to prevent max droop against your brake lines.



I'm also running the XTA w/ the helper spring removed so I can run 255 sq setup. This puts the lower perch at tire level.

[WeryPert1]

Thanks for the tips! That pass thru socket set does not actually allow you to get a torque wrench on those bolts, though, does it? I was wondering if most folks just tighten these down by feel. (??)

The other option I used a long long time ago was just to take the strut assemblies to a local shock installation shop and have them put them together, then I threw them on the car.

I was planning to stick to the video method because I greatly dislike spring compressors, but I'm still reading/watching various install threads so I'll give that some more thought.

[jsigone]

for the rear shock top nut. You're clamping the nut down on 3 layers of foam, yah it's not going to be tq wrench right. I tighten til I couldn't tighten anymore. first side I actually broke the paws in the ratchet, only so much for an 8mm socket can hold compare the the power of the gearwrench tool. I guess in theory you can try to tq the 8mm to spec. and not the outter 16mm.

The latest designs of spring compressors are good. It's cast iron on the ends hooking the spring. I got my set from O Riley's as I tried to clear the fenders w/o the tool. Dropped the rotor down and no way that full length shock was coming out w/o the tool. I actually had to compress it down almost all the way.

[WeryPert1]

It's been a month now since my install and I just wanted to follow up with some details...

To answer my original question: YES, you absolutely need that special socket tool to tighten the upper nut on the front coilovers. NOTE: this is for coilovers that re-use the factory upper mount. If your coilovers come with camber plates or a different upper mount then maybe this socket is not needed. For me it was needed, and I ended up buying a whole set on Amazon that also includes the front strut spreader tool.

As a novice mechanic, I really got stuck for awhile trying to re-install the LCA bolt on the rears - I just could not get it to line up and go through. Yes, I was supporting the arm/upright with a jack but finally realized there is just one goldilocks position where everything lines up and the bolt goes through. If you've got the jack a little higher or a little lower then it won't go through. Dumb thing that took me way too long to figure out.

My other 'rookie mistake' was over-tightening and stripping the set screw on the plastic spring perch collar for my front right coilover. I'm usually pretty good about things like this and was surprised at how easy it stripped. Really miss the older style with the double aluminum locking collars instead of the plastic collar + set screw.

With the car on ramps (loaded), I just could not get the angles/leverage needed to tighten the rear LCA arm bolts to anywhere near full torque (165 ft-lbs Edit:should be 165 N-m /122 ft-lbs). Fronts were impossible, too... I could get the 50 ft-lbs but not the extra 90 degrees. I got them as tight as I could and then had my alignment guy torque them down. He said the rears were VERY loose, so be careful with those.

[WeryPert1]

As for performance, I'm extremely happy with these ST X's - they are everything I had hoped they would be. Supposedly the exact same valving and spring rates as the KX V1/V2 and they do feel very similar to the V2's I had on a previous car. Dive/Squat is GONE, roll just feels well-controlled even with the base FSB and no rear, and the ride quality is excellent.

I was worried these might be too low for my tastes with the advertised drop being 1.4" minimum, but I set these near that upper limit and I think I only got about a 1" drop. So I don't think the advertised range is completely accurate.... although I did add the Dinan fixed camber plates up front with add a quarter inch. Perfect for me, and I'm sure you could go down another inch or more if you wanted to.

[houtan]

Glad you are enjoying your suspension.

Where did you get 165 ft lbs for the lower camber arm? I have 122 ft lbs.

[WeryPert1]

Originally Posted by houtan

Glad you are enjoying your suspension.

Where did you get 165 ft lbs for the lower camber arm? I have 122 ft lbs.

Good catch! "165 N-m" was mentioned at the 6:09 mark of that ECS Install video..... but they are installing on a E92 not an E82.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by WeryPert1

Good catch! "165 N-m" was mentioned at the 6:09 mark of that ECS Install video..... but they are installing on a E92 not an E82.

Yeah, 165 Nm = 122 ft-lb.

E82 torques are the same as E92