Charge pipe installed - Report and Questions

[thatoneguy...]

Hello all! Installed the JB4 with DCI, had a blast, but was throwing 30FF codes. Thought it was the charge pipe (natural progression), so I ordered an ER CP/HKS BOV kit from Mike at N54Tuning (fantastic interaction, incredibly communicative throughout the process) and proceeded to get to work. ER considers this to be a level 1 (super easy) install. I found this to not be the case at all. The amount of blood and and foul language that poured into the engine bay is a testament to the involvement of this mod. I'd say it's more along the lines of a 3, especially if this is your first time doing it.

This next part is a bit of an aside: When I bought the car, it had a very deep intake noise, and this was only increased with the installation of the JB4 and the DCI. The best way I can describe this sound is a Darth Vader constantly exhaling type sound. Very deep, almost sounded like a vacuum cleaner. I thought this was normal, so I wasn't concerned. When I went to uninstall the OEM CP and disconnected the factory diverter valves from the ABA connectors (twist lock collars), I noticed that not one but both of them were unlocked. Whoever had worked on them last had forgotten to tighten them down, and as a result I was leaking boost past what should have been a seal.

I proceeded to install the ER CP and hooked up the HKS BOV, and fired it up. There was a world of difference in intake noise. No more Darth Vader, and turbo spool was much more noticeable. Deeming everything satisfactory, I sealed up the hood and rolled out. I only made it about half a mile before the hose connecting the charge pipe to the intercooler blew off... great

So, I wheeled back around and proceeded to pull the intake again and tried to readjust the piping (which is a bitch without completely removing the charge pipe as well), and really stuffed it onto the intercooler piping. I noticed that there was some oil residue on the interface, which is probably from my oil filter housing gasket (which needs to be replaced). I cranked down on it as best I could, and drove away, this time without any issue! HOLY SMOKES. This car is now insane. I didn't realize how much boost I was losing to the open seals in the factory charge pipe. A quick test drive revealed that turbo response time was MUCH faster, and there is now an incredible amount of torque at full boost. There is only one problem; the silicone hose once again popped off the intercooler, meaning that for all intents and purposes I'm now rolling in a naturally aspirated 135. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? How can I reduce the amount of play in the intercooler piping to keep this connection sealed? Thank you!

[dtla1]

A Bigger wrench.

When I installed my CP I actually went to ER to pick it up on a Sunday as my OEM blew apart on Saturday. I installed it in the parking lot and when I was about to take off one of the guys at ER decided to come out and take a look. He told me to make sure to crank it down real nice and tight to make sure it didn't come off and to take it for a spin around the block before leaving. So I went for a quick drive, nothing blew off necessarily but I told him it felt different. He said that's normal (it has felt the same ever since, no leaks) but did proceed to tighten down the clamps super tight and all was good.

I've uninstalled and re-installed the CP once, tightened down to what I thought was pretty good, and it blew off. Thankfully I brought my wrench with me and tighten that SOB real good and no problems since.

[BMW135pls]

My charge pipe has popped a few times. It is not a pleasant experience at all. You'd think I would learn, but nearly every time when it happens I fear the worst. I go to WOT, and at high RPM I hear a POP with the entire chassis jolting at the event quickly followed by an engine code, different engine tone, and my boost meter failing to move above 0psi no matter the throttle, I always seem to jump to "well, turbos just went." Luckily every time it has just been the CP/IC connection blowing off, which is harmless and easily fixed. I had this problem fairly frequently after tuning since boost pressure was raised, until I tightened the connection down with the largest screwdriver I "used" to have. I lost it, so I don't know the specs, but I still have an 8" by 3/8" flathead, and this one was the size above that. Literally tightened it until I felt material fatigue. Haven't had an issue since.

[dtla1]

Screwdriver? Are you using worm clamps? Get rid of those and get a good set of T-Bolt clamps.

[BMW135pls]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Screwdriver? Are you using worm clamps? Get rid of those and get a good set of T-Bolt clamps.

Yes, I do. Maybe I will pick up some T clamps then. What size do you need to get?

[thatoneguy...]

Thanks all! I think it was just a matter of me not cranking down on the hose clamps enough. I'll be sure to really tighten them up.

Originally Posted by BMW135pls

Yes, I do. Maybe I will pick up some T clamps then. What size do you need to get?

Mine were 2.5" diameter clamps.

[dtla1]

Reading through this again, I'm surprised ER provided this with worm clamps. I would give them a call and see what they would say.

[BMW135pls]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Reading through this again, I'm surprised ER provided this with worm clamps. I would give them a call and see what they would say.

My CP is the Cobb version. I can't remember if the Cobb came with its own clamps, or if they are layovers from the OE hardware.

[PA135i]

How do you know if your charge pipe has blown off? What symptoms will the car have.
I have had mine installed since early August at a local indy shop and all seems well.

[BMW135pls]

Originally Posted by PA135i

How do you know if your charge pipe has blown off? What symptoms will the car have.
I have had mine installed since early August at a local indy shop and all seems well.

Read my first post above. It describes accurately what it's like to have your CP connection blow off.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by BMW135pls

My CP is the Cobb version. I can't remember if the Cobb came with its own clamps, or if they are layovers from the OE hardware.

My ER one came with the required two T clamps, albeit I have the N55. I would be surprised if they sent a different hardware type for the N54.

[thatoneguy...]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Reading through this again, I'm surprised ER provided this with worm clamps. I would give them a call and see what they would say.

My ER pipe came with t-bolt clamps, I guess I just wasn't tightening them enough

[thatoneguy...]

Originally Posted by PA135i

How do you know if your charge pipe has blown off? What symptoms will the car have.
I have had mine installed since early August at a local indy shop and all seems well.

If you haven't noticed a difference, you're probably fine. If the charge pipe is disconnected, your turbos will be spooling to the atmosphere as opposed to the cylinder, meaning you'll have a significant hit to torque and power. The car will still run, but not well. If you want to double check, you can take a peek at it with the hood up on the driver's side. the connection is just aft of the headlight.

[PA135i]

Originally Posted by thatoneguy...

If you haven't noticed a difference, you're probably fine. If the charge pipe is disconnected, your turbos will be spooling to the atmosphere as opposed to the cylinder, meaning you'll have a significant hit to torque and power. The car will still run, but not well. If you want to double check, you can take a peek at it with the hood up on the driver's side. the connection is just aft of the headlight.

Yeah, thanks. Guess that was a dumb question. I can just pop the hood and look. But, thought if it can be loose ... might be a bit harder to detect an issue.