What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

There is not enough of the nut left for the socket to get any kind of purchase - it just slips when any force is applied. The nut looks as though it has fused to the axle. I'm thinking I have to get in there with something to cut the nut into pieces and pried off. And getting the axle nut off is supposed to be the easy part.

Cutting is such a pain, but it may be your only solution. Before I went that route, I would apply lots of naval jelly to the nut to eat away some of the brittle layers. Once that was gone, I would fill a socket with JB Cold Weld and let it harden onto the nut. Once it set, I think you could zip it off with an impact driver pretty easily.

[BikeNHV]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Looks good! I like the wheels too
Are you on the shores of some sort of waste management reservoir?! jk

For the first time in 50k miles I have 0 oil leaks, so at least I wasn't adding to the problem.

And thanks, I was happy to find out they fit just fine on a 1 series (particularly the rears). I enjoy having my 2 favorite sets of wheels of the 90's in the same garage.

[1and1]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

...On the left side, however, I have no idea how I will get the axle nut off. After I wire brushed out the layers of rust, this is what I have: (snip pic)

There is not enough of the nut left for the socket to get any kind of purchase - it just slips when any force is applied. The nut looks as though it has fused to the axle. I'm thinking I have to get in there with something to cut the nut into pieces and pried off. And getting the axle nut off is supposed to be the easy part.

Penetrating stuff like PB Blaster or whatever you like, couple times a day over a couple of days

Heat, lots of heat

sacrificial socket one size too small- once the above is done till you can't stand it any more, beat that too small socket on and have at with a good impact gun

Then

If you still need to, go ahead and split the nut. Glad you're replacing the axles, no need to be delicate with the abuse!! Oh, and if you end up here, take lots of pics!! Love watching SOMEBODY ELSE go through a PITA wrenching ordeal

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

There is not enough of the nut left for the socket to get any kind of purchase - it just slips when any force is applied. The nut looks as though it has fused to the axle. I'm thinking I have to get in there with something to cut the nut into pieces and pried off. And getting the axle nut off is supposed to be the easy part.

Well, wore out several cutting wheels with the Dremel and some drill bits are now dull but it's off. Hoping I can get the axles out of the hubs, which will be tomorrow's battle. Probably going to do the hubs and bearings now.

[bnace10]

Accepted a new job today (4 days/week wfh), which means the 135 will get driven less, however it will be better drives as the commute to my current job is 10 minutes and the car barely even gets up to temperature which concerns me, oil wise.

The new, once a week commute, is longer, 35 minutes, and a nice drive on curvy roads the whole way there.

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by bnace10

the commute to my current job is 10 minutes and the car barely even gets up to temperature which concerns me, oil wise.

That's my current situation, but the killer is that the battery never gets a decent charge, prompting me to trickle charge on a daily basis.

[Slow N54]

Originally Posted by white.nasty135i

Got green light from wife to upgrade turbos next year. Trying to decide. Kinda set between either pure600 or rbtwo or rb two plus. Anyone here have any of those installed? One nice thing about the pure600 is no core charge to deal with I guess. I've been leaning towards the rb twos though.

I’ve had the RB twos installed for about 50k miles now and love them. More power than I can put down, even with 265 width tires. Rob is a genuinely good guy who took time answering a lot of questions I had via email to ensure I was ordering the correct turbos to achieve my goals. I never got the car dumped but based on the mods I have and running ~E40 Rob said it should be a bit over 500whp and it sure as hell feels like it.

The fact that Rob took the time out of his day to answer my questions and provide stellar customer service while making a rock solid product is enough for me to only consider RB turbos in the future.

[Fishee]

Swapped out the factory plastic coolant flange for the billet version from rein.
Peace of mind.

Factory piece wasn't too bad, but it was definitely weakened.

[WrathOTM]

[QUOTE=Fishee;29475428]Swapped out the factory plastic coolant flange for the billet version from rein.
Peace of mind.



Did you do this as a part of another job? Just curious as I want to swap my flange out too, but I was wondering how much coolant you lose during the removal process.

[Fishee]

[QUOTE=WrathOTM;29475849]

Originally Posted by Fishee

Swapped out the factory plastic coolant flange for the billet version from rein.
Peace of mind.



Did you do this as a part of another job? Just curious as I want to swap my flange out too, but I was wondering how much coolant you lose during the removal process.

Just this... though, removing the fan shroud was a HUGE help (the oil cooler block really makes access a challenge) - I see you have a 128, should not need to remove the fan.

Lost about 1-2L of coolant.

Purchased a 4L jug of concentrated G11 from the dealer, enough to make 8L.

[WrathOTM]

Lol thanks. That was reply was fast as hell.

[jdt10768]

[QUOTE=WrathOTM;29475849]

Originally Posted by Fishee

Swapped out the factory plastic coolant flange for the billet version from rein.
Peace of mind.



Did you do this as a part of another job? Just curious as I want to swap my flange out too, but I was wondering how much coolant you lose during the removal process.

If you follow the DIY, you don't lose Any coolant with a 128i
Just siphon out the overflow container beforehand into a clean bottle, and replace afterward, then run the air-bubble-purge-cycle . . .

[WrathOTM]

[QUOTE=jdt10768;29476058]

Originally Posted by WrathOTM

If you follow the DIY, you don't lose Any coolant with a 128i
Just siphon out the overflow container beforehand into a clean bottle, and replace afterward, then run the air-bubble-purge-cycle . . .

Cool thanks for the heads up. I've been wanting to switch out some of the plastic for metal upgrade parts, like this and the metal oil filter housing cover. I've also been keeping an eye on the aluminum valve cover that can be found on eBay that I want.

Question for the fam, are there any other metal upgrade parts other than the three that I know of above?

[1and1]

Aluminum radiator and maybe water pump with alum. nose instead of plastic...

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by WrathOTM

Question for the fam, are there any other metal upgrade parts other than the three that I know of above?

RSFBs (Cue the circlejerk)

[Gray_Panther]

M3 RSFB and anything else is a WaStE oF TiMe and MoN$y

[Kowalski2011]

New plugs and coils for the 135i / N55 at 67K



While I was at it, new plugs and coils for the Z3 / M54 at 60K

[gerikivan]

After procrastinating for 2 months i finally decided to install my turbo since the old one is smoking bad. i was going to replace the water pump but ecstuning had the water pump on back order😔😔

[Fishee]

Oil change, differential fluid change, stupid retention clip popped off the top helper spring pin on the clutch pedal (pain to reinstall), replaced a couple of mashed jack points, washed and waxed...

[WrathOTM]

My jack point plastic thingys look like yours, are they a quick fix?

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by gerikivan

After procrastinating for 2 months i finally decided to install my turbo since the old one is smoking bad. i was going to replace the water pump but ecstuning had the water pump on back order😔😔

Is that a big job on these cars? Front subframe out?

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by WrathOTM

My jack point plastic thingys look like yours, are they a quick fix?

Super easy.
Just need a flat screwdriver or panel pry tool to pop them out, nothing other than a couple of tabs holding them in.
BMW OEM = $45 CAD per
Amazon = $15 CAD per

Tabs on the old part will snap when it comes out.