CORRECT 1M Fluids List [Engine, Transmission, Differential]

[buddalun]

I found this:

"BMW's newest TwinPower Turbo engine oil is LL01 FE+ certified. It meets BMW's standards for LongLife 2001 ("LL01") and improved fuel economy ("FE+"). The new 0W30 replaces the previous 5W30 oil used in some 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder, and V8 BMW models. As of December 2015, BMW has not backdated the 0W30 for any other engines but the LL01 rating might indicate it will be the new approved oil for most engines (and replace #83212365946 5W30 oil).

Beginning with July 2015 production, new models came with 0W20 or 0W30 BMW oil. However, BMW dealerships continued to sell 5W30 until that stock was depleted. The 5W30 is an acceptable alternative to the 0W20 and 0W30 BMW oil per BMW's service bulletin.

0W30 oil is to be released in 2016."

[buddalun]

FWIW, I am sticking with Redline 5W-30 in my 1M.

[crumbelieve]

Originally Posted by vasmir

Dealership telling me BMW 0W-30 replaced the 5W-30 back in the Fall of 2016, and is now their recommended oil for the N54. Service advisors were fully aware of the specific 1M fluids/needs.

BMW 0W-30 Twinpower Longlife Synthetic Oil

New part number: 83-21-2-450-384

As a side note... still no airbag recall parts! (sad face).

Originally Posted by buddalun

So the 0W is now recommended for our 1Ms?

Did the dealer provide any insight as to why BMW made the change to the 0W oil? TIA

I just had my oil changed at the dealer and and also received Oil part # 83-21-2-450-384 (LL-01 FE 0W-30) - I was skeptical and worried but the parts department insisted this was correct and that BMW periodically updates parts. Seeing this thread makes me feel better.

However, nobody seems to have mentioned changes in the Oil Filter parts: I received 11-42-7-953-129. ECS tuning shows that it fits N54/55 3.0L engines (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11427953129/) but didn't see anyone commenting on this. Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks and hope everyone is still enjoying their 1Ms as much as I am!

[///BYU]

Originally Posted by crumbelieve

I just had my oil changed at the dealer and and also received Oil part # 83-21-2-450-384 (LL-01 FE 0W-30) - I was skeptical and worried but the parts department insisted this was correct and that BMW periodically updates parts. Seeing this thread makes me feel better.

However, nobody seems to have mentioned changes in the Oil Filter parts: I received 11-42-7-953-129. ECS tuning shows that it fits N54/55 3.0L engines (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11427953129/) but didn't see anyone commenting on this. Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks and hope everyone is still enjoying their 1Ms as much as I am!

11-42-7-953-129 is the new part number for the oil filter. realoem and getbmwparts both show this as superseding / replacing 11-42-7-541-827, 11-42-7-566-327, and 11-42-8-683-196.

[drivergadgets]

my SA said there are 5 ltrs of lt5 in the whole US or something.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by crumbelieve

I just had my oil changed at the dealer and and also received Oil part # 83-21-2-450-384 (LL-01 FE 0W-30) - I was skeptical and worried but the parts department insisted this was correct and that BMW periodically updates parts. Seeing this thread makes me feel better.

However, nobody seems to have mentioned changes in the Oil Filter parts: I received 11-42-7-953-129. ECS tuning shows that it fits N54/55 3.0L engines (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11427953129/) but didn't see anyone commenting on this. Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks and hope everyone is still enjoying their 1Ms as much as I am!

I guess you missed this thread of mine...



Recent DIY oil change... PA or AL... What the heck does this mean?
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1383391




as per RealOEM.com ...

Part Cross-reference

p/n 11427953129

Set oil-filter element

From:06/01/2017To:-Price:
Supersedes:
11428683196 (09/01/2016 — 09/21/2017), Exchangeable retrospectively 11427566327 (02/13/2006 — 01/30/2017), Exchangeable retrospectively 11427541827 (09/01/2004 — 03/17/2006)


Part 11427953129 was found on the following vehicles:
1' E81   (02/2006 — 12/2011)
1' E87   (03/2005 — 02/2007)

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=11427953129

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by T1M

Alright official word from redline, DCTF is a more suitable substitute for MTF-LT-5 aka Pentosin FFL-3 than either D4 or D6.


Attachment 1319866

specs...
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=146&pcid=9

I think D4 and D6 contain low levels of friction modifiers as marketed by Redline when they say this fluid has "superior synchronizer performance." The low friction synchros in an N55/1M 45bz box specifically states not to use friction modified fluid in the gearbox.

Shifting was worse for me in my N55 when switching to a D6/MTl mix and 2nd gear synchro started grinding on me at 100k. Seemed like there was too much slip and gears weren't aligning fast enough for quick shifts.

I put straight D4 in my replacement N55 box and it doesn't seem much better. Stock fluid felt best. I think I am going to drain and fill with FFL-3 for piece of mind since this is the OE equivalent fluid that presumably contains a different add-pak then Redline's ATF oriented formulas. The only thing D6 and FFl-3 have in common is the the viscosity is relatively close in the cSt 6.x range. That doesn't say ANYTHING as to what kind of friction modifiers may or may not be added to each product...

I will point out that even if the formula of the Redline DCTF fluid is better suited for use in an N55/1M box, the viscosity is actually much higher then FFL-3. It has a viscosity rating of 8.x cSt. That lands it between the viscosity range of their D4 ATF and MTL fluid and is 2 points higher than OE BMW and FFL-3. I'd expect worse cold start performance out of the DCTF fluid. This is important to me as I daily drive in the New England area.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

I think D4 and D6 contain low levels of friction modifiers as marketed by Redline when they say this fluid has "superior synchronizer performance." The low friction synchros in an N55/1M 45bz box specifically states not to use friction modified fluid in the gearbox...

Once you have grinding of your gears/syncro's... no fluid is gonna help. Sometime's some fluids may cover up the problem... but on a fast hard shift... your gonna get a grind. I can remember using BG's Syncro Shift in past cars... it does cover up worn syncro's - but like I said on a quick shift it will still grind.

All I can say is contact Redine Oils and see which fluid they recommend. I am still using their AFT-D4 in my 135i with 155K kms with no issues. I drive hard on the Autobahns but I don't ever speed shift my gear. Shift quickly, but I don't bang my gears and tear out my motor mounts when shifting.

I have tried Redline's MTL, but I feel that it's quick thicker on cold starts in the winter. In the summer I can't tell/feel any difference.

This thread reminds me I need to change my fluids(trans and diff) again on my next oil change.

Dackel

[jaymcars]

Safe to assume after reading through this slightly unclear thread that....



TwinPower 0W-30 is current CORRECT for oil change for a 1m with 27,000 miles on her??

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by jaymcars

Safe to assume after reading through this slightly unclear thread that....



TwinPower 0W-30 is current CORRECT for oil change for a 1m with 27,000 miles on her??

Yep. Any oil that carries a LL1 or LL4 rating and that is: 0w30, 0w40, 5w30 and 3w40 viscosity is fine to use.

IF you don't live in a cold climate... I would go with TwinPower 5w30 instead of 0w30.

Dackel

[jaymcars]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Yep. Any oil that carries a LL1 or LL4 rating and that is: 0w30, 0w40, 5w30 and 3w40 viscosity is fine to use.

IF you don't live in a cold climate... I would go with TwinPower 5w30 instead of 0w30.

Dackel

Thanks Dackel... it gave me a warning that says "oil at min level please add 1 quart" which I did today of 5w30 and it still says same warning.

I drove it a few miles to see if it would go off. No luck yet. Maybe I need to add more oil

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by jaymcars

Thanks Dackel... it gave me a warning that says "oil at min level please add 1 quart" which I did today of 5w30 and it still says same warning.

I drove it a few miles to see if it would go off. No luck yet. Maybe I need to add more oil

Drive the car for at least 45 minutes... then see what the oil level says.

IF you do a lot of very short drives... the oil level sensor will not read correctly bc of the high water content in the oil. Go for a long drive and recheck.

Or... just change your oil and then you will KNOW the oil level is correct. You could have a bad oil sensor too. Do you have a code reader like BMW Carly ? You could check for codes that way.

Dack

[arvinz]

Hey guys, just had an oil change at a trusted local shop and they used Liqui-Moly 5W-40:

https://products.liqui-moly.com/leichtlauf-high-tech-5w-40-3.html

It says it's LL-01 rated...should be good right?

[ayao]

Originally Posted by arvinz

Hey guys, just had an oil change at a trusted local shop and they used Liqui-Moly 5W-40:

https://products.liqui-moly.com/leic...h-5w-40-3.html

It says it's LL-01 rated...should be good right?

Yes.

I've run BMW 5W-30, Motul 5W-40, Castrol 0W-30, Mobil 1 0W-40 (when it was LL01) and every UOA has come up fine (other an the Motul which has a tendenct to shear down to a 30 grade viscosity for some reason.). I have some Castrol 0W-40 that will go in next and im sure it will be fine as well.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by arvinz

Hey guys, just had an oil change at a trusted local shop and they used Liqui-Moly 5W-40:

https://products.liqui-moly.com/leic...h-5w-40-3.html

It says it's LL-01 rated...should be good right?

I really have no experience with Liqui-Moly oils. I only know they are made in Ingolstadt.

I do have a friend who deals in used Porsche parts over here. He says that LM is the worst oil around. I have told him many times that LM has a pretty good following in the USA. But he just laughs that off. IDK.

Maybe go on a oil forum like: Bob the oil guy... those guys are very religious(fanatics) when it comes to engine oils.

I do know that I prefer to stick to my German Castrol oil.


Dackel

[jaymcars]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Drive the car for at least 45 minutes... then see what the oil level says.

IF you do a lot of very short drives... the oil level sensor will not read correctly bc of the high water content in the oil. Go for a long drive and recheck.

Or... just change your oil and then you will KNOW the oil level is correct. You could have a bad oil sensor too. Do you have a code reader like BMW Carly ? You could check for codes that way.

Dack

Dack, thanks so much. I am going to take your advice and just get the oil changed. Also, because I live in SW Florida I am going to go with the TwinPower 5w30 per your suggestion. One quick thing- I am thinking it's a good time to replace my gear box oil since I have no record of it being done previously at first glance.

Are you of the thinking that Redline alternative is too thick on cold starts and we should just stay with the original recommended gearbox oil?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by jaymcars

Dack.... One quick thing- I am thinking it's a good time to replace my gear box oil since I have no record of it being done previously at first glance.

Are you of the thinking that Redline alternative is too thick on cold starts and we should just stay with the original recommended gearbox oil?

It is a good idea to change your manual transmission fluid. Especially since you don't know when it was last changed. BMW says it's lifetime fill... but that means until the car is out of warranty.

The factory oil is fine. But I prefer Redline.

I am running Redline ATF-D4 in my manual 135i. I like it. in my e30 540i I am running Redline MTL and its good, but the car sits outside in the German winters and the first few shifts are kind of stiff. Once it warms up its fine. I will probably go back to using Redline's ATF-D4 bc I have some of that fluid on hand.

I believe Redline recommends D6 ATF, which is a slightly thinner viscosity(flows better when cold). I think in the hot Florida weather you would be perfectly fine with AFT-D4. You will need 2.1 liters of oil.

I would also change your rear diff fluid too. Use a 75w140 GL5 gear oil. You will need 1.2 liters of oil.

Order some new(4) crush o-rings from BMW too.


Dackel

[FIRSTM]

Originally Posted by jaymcars

Dack, thanks so much. I am going to take your advice and just get the oil changed. Also, because I live in SW Florida I am going to go with the TwinPower 5w30 per your suggestion. One quick thing- I am thinking it's a good time to replace my gear box oil since I have no record of it being done previously at first glance.

Are you of the thinking that Redline alternative is too thick on cold starts and we should just stay with the original recommended gearbox oil?

Hi Jay, how are you been? Long time I haven't been on here, been busy and all.
When I first got my 1M, I did the first gear oil change around 7k miles, I got the gear oil from Porsche dealer because back then my local BMW don't have diddly squat, did my research on here thats how I know that P gears run same oil, and here's the kicker, Porsche fluid is CHEAPER than BMW, my car now is 47K miles and run like a charm, gonna do another change soon.
Been busy with the new car lol
If I were you, do the change asap, its been quite awhile since you have the 1M, and if you are not sure, just do it, and just listen to Dack, he is very informative and helpful.

[TBURKE555]

I am planning to change brake fluid, differential fluid and transmission fluid this week at the local BMW dealer. I'm supplying brake fluid and was planning to use BMW fluids in the differential and transmission. Dealer cannot get transmission fluid. Any suggestions ? Car has 16k and fluid has never been changed.

[nachob]

Originally Posted by TBURKE555

I am planning to change brake fluid, differential fluid and transmission fluid this week at the local BMW dealer. I'm supplying brake fluid and was planning to use BMW fluids in the differential and transmission. Dealer cannot get transmission fluid. Any suggestions ? Car has 16k and fluid has never been changed.

would change it for sure. It's coming on 9 years now and it was supposed to have been changed at 2000KM. Just put it off until you get the LT5 Fluid. You only need two liters and should be able to be shipped easily. A couple of years ago I was at my dealer and they offered me 4 bottles of LT5 at half price. They were part of the original shipment from 2011 and they had a USE BY DATE of 2016 stamped on the bottle from the manufacturer. So that use by date is for just sitting in a sealed plastic bottle on a shelf not in your gearbox. These fluids are not just affected by mileage but also exposure to the elements and changes in humidity etc. So definitely change it and I would use BMW LT-5 or if you can't get that, try this Pentosin FFL3:
"This is the OEM equivalent of BMW MTF LT-5 fluid for ZF GS645BZ manual transmissions on 2011+ models, such as E82 135i, E9X 335i, F30 335i, F32 435i, F87 M2, and F8X M3/M4. Use this oil if your transmission has a MTF label on the side. LT-5 is GL-4 rated and 75W80"

This fluid is also used in DSG and PDK transmissions on VW and Porsche products. I also own a VW GTI and was surprised to find out it was the same fluid.

I change mine every 4 years. It is very easy if you are mechanically inclined.

Best of luck.

[nachob]

Originally Posted by FIRSTM

Hi Jay, how are you been? Long time I haven't been on here, been busy and all.
When I first got my 1M, I did the first gear oil change around 7k miles, I got the gear oil from Porsche dealer because back then my local BMW don't have diddly squat, did my research on here thats how I know that P gears run same oil, and here's the kicker, Porsche fluid is CHEAPER than BMW, my car now is 47K miles and run like a charm, gonna do another change soon.
Been busy with the new car lol
If I were you, do the change asap, its been quite awhile since you have the 1M, and if you are not sure, just do it, and just listen to Dack, he is very informative and helpful.

Yes VW also! I bought the fluid for my GTI DSG and same stuff! : )

[nachob]

Originally Posted by ayao

Yes.

I've run BMW 5W-30, Motul 5W-40, Castrol 0W-30, Mobil 1 0W-40 (when it was LL01) and every UOA has come up fine (other an the Motul which has a tendenct to shear down to a 30 grade viscosity for some reason.). I have some Castrol 0W-40 that will go in next and im sure it will be fine as well.

I agree, they are all pretty good!

Of course those that know me on here also know that I obsess about little things and I shy away from 0W oils because I am in a warm-hot climate environment and my car sits in a garage all its life.

Here are my thoughts for warm weather cars.

It is my humble opinion from my reading and experience that the primary driver for 0W oil is:
1. To increase fleet mile per gallon standards. The thinner oil can increase mileage which is paramount to manufacturers so they strive for the lowest weight oil possible that will still keep their engines running for some reasonable number of years. Durability is important but balanced against the top priority to increase fuel efficiency.

2. In the old days when people would change their oils every 3K miles, it was common for enthusiast to put thicker summer oil and thinner winter oil. Now with long-life oil you need one oil that can work year round all over the world. So it is simpler and more cost effective for manufacturers and dealers to carry the same oil all over the world that can work year round. Again, cost effectiveness and simplicity edges is balanced against durability. Yes it is very cool to just have one oil for everyone in the world that does it all.

3. Emissions systems. Modern emission systems use a high rpm cold start to bring emmisions systems up to temperature as quickly as possible. We all love the high RPM cold starts, myself included, but as you can imagine the engine is cold, the oil is cold and here is one benefit of 0W oil in that it flows well during the high RPM cold start.

So these 0W-30 and 0W-40 are convenient and more than good enough.

However, if you are car geek that prefers engine protection to be paramount over a 5% fuel mileage increase on a car you only drive 3K miles a year and you live in a desert and your car sits in a cozy garage all it's life, then you have the luxury of taking it to the next level. So I have been using Pennzoil Euro Platinum 5W-40 for the last few years.

Pennzoil is not just LL-01 which is important but it also made by Shell which makes the BMW oils also. In the US it is branded as Pennzoil. It is difficult to find lately as few places stock it but that is the same with Motul, etc. My car was originally designed to run on 5W cold start and this is especially true in my case where the garage rarely get truly cold even in Winter. Then some days it gets pretty warm out here so I appreciate the extra viscocity. Finally in a lot of tests Pennzoil Euro has done very well on its evaporative tests which is one of the concerns with our direct injected engines. Lower evaporation means less stuff to get coked up on intakes and loss of oil.

Finally our motors are direct injected which means fuel can make contact with cylinder walls and mix with oil usually more than port fuel injection. That is why a good long life synthetic oil is critical in DI engines. It has to be able to not break down if fuel mixes with oil. Therein lies the last point as to why I prefer a little extra viscocity protection. If you start out at 0W-30, that is with fresh oil. As fuel mixes with it, its performance drops so you could end up with 0W-20 oil. If you start out with a 40W, even degraded, you still get similar protection to the OE 30...I hope. : )

So in summary, the benefit to 0W during cold start especially if you live in cooler to average climates is worth it since it can help your engine last longer since it is accepted that most of the wear happens then. In warmer to hot climates, 5W is more than good enough for cold start plus it can give you extra protection against normal oil breakdown and high heat and hopefully less evaporative loss.

So that is how I arrived at using Pennzoil Euro Platinum 5W-40 in sunny and garaged San Diego, CA.

A final note, Pennzoil recently changed their formula on Euro Platinum 5W-40 and it no longer says Ferrari and Masserati approved on it. I am not sure if this is a temporary thing since Ferrari uses Shell oils also and I was disappointed by that however, when I read the new documentation, they explicitly mention protection for Direct Injection engines and it is still BMW LL-01, VW 501, 502, Mercedes etc.

I hope that helps someone out there.

Thank you for your time.