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      11-29-2013, 09:05 AM   #23
3rdgear
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Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, so does red mode offer better power too or just louder sound, for some reason, akrapovic website doesn't open in china. So do u have a photo of the block off plate Incase I grinded off the wrong parts. Only if it's not too much trouble tks again
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      11-29-2013, 11:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, so does red mode offer better power too or just louder sound, for some reason, akrapovic website doesn't open in china. So do u have a photo of the block off plate Incase I grinded off the wrong parts. Only if it's not too much trouble tks again
Have a look at my earlier posts:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...21&postcount=4
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=12

For some clarification with pictures:



Non-wireless ("The Akra Flower Pot" with the blocking plate [base] still intact, impeding exhaust fumes to exit the outer tail pipes which bypass the axle back muffler):


Wireless (butterfly valve inside, operated at the touch of a button, to control whether exhaust fumes can also exit the outer tail pipes which bypass the axle back muffler):


Get the wireless - you won't regret it. No downsides.

And about the (little) extra power: in red mode, direct flow without passing through the muffler - unrestricted.
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      11-29-2013, 12:06 PM   #25
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I bought the system from a pal n I got everything aside from the remote senser and the black and a red wire as he left it in the car when he sold it. Plus I really don't mind the car being in red mode permanently.
Another thing I noticed is a rattling noise coming from inside the pipes, I know I'm not alone on this so by removing the block off plate on the connecting pipe fix this annoying problem.
So red mode only make a very slight performance improvement huh, if that's the case I might leave things as it is since even in white mode, the sound is pretty loud. What do you think dr?
Will white mode be better for low rpm?

Thank you, need a phd to figure this exhaust out
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      11-29-2013, 12:11 PM   #26
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Btw I've read all your posts but this ak is especially hard to understand since I'm brand spanking new to tuning so I really appreciate your lessons
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      11-29-2013, 01:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
I might leave things as it is since even in white mode, the sound is pretty loud. What do you think dr?
Will white mode be better for low rpm?
Forget about white mode. That's for when you want to take things a bit easy. It's an elegant sound, similar to the stock 1M exhaust sound. Just normal. The 1M exhaust is partially 'muzzled'.

On the contrary, red mode is the fun generator. It allows the 1M to breath and bark the way it should be. The gently purring kitten becomes a howling wild animal. Red mode provides the aural pleasure that sets the Akra apart from the stock OEM 1M exhaust (and actually from virtually any other exhaust) and will often make you laugh manically.

Yeah, you'll have walks on the wild side and will experience crazy situations. An example: earlier today at some traffic light a guy with a toddler in the passenger child seat asked me to rev the engine. I was reluctant but did it. Then he said to his child while pointing at the 1M: "Listen! Listen! Super sound!" and give me thumbs up with a big smile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
Another thing I noticed is a rattling noise coming from inside the pipes
The gutteral, burbling sound is normal. But you know what? Replace the stock N54 midpipe by the N55 midpipe and it's even more fun.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
need a phd to figure this exhaust out
Take a good look at the first picture (Akra exhaust axle-back), follow each of the pipes, and you'll perfectly understand what happens.
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      11-29-2013, 09:28 PM   #28
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You sold me already, ok red mode all the way buddy, btw I have ak mid pipe with it, my friend has the dp too buy I didn't buy it as it might be too hardcore for me, with gas smell n engine light on etc tks for sharing yr experiences with me
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      11-30-2013, 03:43 AM   #29
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Does the clinging sound happens in some rev aside from start up too, must say its a real turn off, does it come from the valve cause the system is solidly installed, will removing the block off plate fix the valve position? Happens mostly in low rev during take off...... Sounds like one of those just married cars with tons of cans attached haha
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      11-30-2013, 06:28 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
Does the clinging sound happens in some rev aside from start up too, must say its a real turn off, does it come from the valve cause the system is solidly installed, will removing the block off plate fix the valve position? Happens mostly in low rev during take off...... Sounds like one of those just married cars with tons of cans attached haha
If you have no wireless kit, your Akra does not feature the small intermediate pipe with the internal butterfly valve.

Maybe the tingeling/clunking/clinging sound you notice is due to vibration caused by the exhaust flow strongly pushing its way through the partially opened blocking plate (pressure on the blocking plate) ?

Red mode (and probably also DPs)...
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      11-30-2013, 08:03 AM   #31
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Oh but I do with the wireless butterfly valve, I don't have the senser n the red n black wire. As the previous seller lost it, so that's the clinging sound could be coming from rite, so in my case I can that off the butterfly valve n grind the block off plate stay with me buddy. I'm getting there

Last edited by 3rdgear; 11-30-2013 at 08:27 AM..
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      11-30-2013, 08:20 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
Oh but I do with the wireless butterfly valve, I don't have the sensor and the red and black wire. As the previous seller lost it, so that's the clinging sound could be coming from rite, so in my case I can that off n grind the block off plate stay with me buddy. I'm getting there
Very likely. See point #9 of my earlier post:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=36

Alternative solution: simply order and install the wireless kit (part number P-HF669). Not cheap but ain't cruelly expensive. If the Akra website works at your location:
http://www.akrapovic.com/#!/car/prod...=19&modelId=56
http://az79640.vo.msecnd.net/akrapov...430b4c829c.pdf

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      11-30-2013, 02:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
Oh but I do with the wireless butterfly valve, I don't have the senser n the red n black wire. As the previous seller lost it, so that's the clinging sound could be coming from rite, so in my case I can that off the butterfly valve n grind the block off plate stay with me buddy. I'm getting there
Why go through all that trouble? If I understand correctly, you have everything except for the 12v solenoid valve in the vacuum line and the transmitter/receiver?

Do you have a working vacuum line? Is the butterfly valve actually moving? Then you are always in RED mode except for the first few seconds at engine start when there's no vacuum present in the system.

I would just buy a 12v valve (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keurig-12V-P...item3f28c564a6 or http://www.ebay.de/itm/BMW-E90-330d-...-/271150394557 just check your hose diameters) and hook it up to a button so you have a working system

But if you don't have a working vacuum line near your butterfly valve: you can just disconnect the actuator from the valve (but leave the butterfly valve installed in you exhaust system!) and leave the mounting plate. Connect the rod end to a new piece of threated rod (i think it's M4) which you can mount/fix on the mounting plate from the 'old' actuator. Now the valve is locked in the open position.
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      12-01-2013, 12:33 AM   #34
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Thanks a lot maniac, will try to translate your thoughts to my boys at the workshop, I saw them connecting some tubes from the butterfly value to under the hood
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      12-01-2013, 12:30 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
[COLOR="Black"]Thanks a lot maniac....
Well, be careful to say the workshop guys that those were the thoughts of a 1Mmaniac...not just a maniac!

Sorry, had to say, nothing bad intended

Cheers.
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      12-01-2013, 08:20 PM   #36
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Hahahaa will do buddy. Be great if you can come along with me, we are only 14 hrs away
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      12-02-2013, 03:06 AM   #37
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Ak

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear
Hahahaa will do buddy. Be great if you can come along with me, we are only 14 hrs away
Last question I promise, I was at the workshop studying your advise on the wireless, well the ak flower pot is all connected with tubes to under the hood and seems functional but the button is not connected as I mentioned before some wiring and sensor is missing. When I put my foot down, it's pretty loud not stock level at all but when stationary sound is quiet so am I in semi red mode or white mode still. The guys tells me when I push the pedal the valves opens
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      12-02-2013, 07:29 AM   #38
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The valve defaults to white (closed) mode on start up. If you have the vacuum lines from the front of the engine bay hooked up to the wireless kit in the trunk, and ultimately the flapper on the muffler -- and the only thing you do not have hooked up is the power to the wireless transmitter, than the flap is closed.

There's a chance you might need to adjust the arm on the muffler, in the event that it isn't sealing. But I think the factory setting is fine..
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      12-04-2013, 02:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgear View Post
Last question I promise, I was at the workshop studying your advise on the wireless, well the ak flower pot is all connected with tubes to under the hood and seems functional but the button is not connected as I mentioned before some wiring and sensor is missing. When I put my foot down, it's pretty loud not stock level at all but when stationary sound is quiet so am I in semi red mode or white mode still. The guys tells me when I push the pedal the valves opens
With no, non-Akra, other parts added it's impossible that the valve will open by itself when you increase RPM. The way the actuator is mounted the valve is normally-open; this means that WITHOUT vacuum the valve will be in open position aka loud position. This is exactly the reason why startup-ups are loud for the first couple of seconds (if there is no vacuum left in the tanks).

The valve is closed aka silient mode is acutally a good sign in your situation. This would mean that all the vacuum tubing is connected and the valve is working. You would only need to take the vacuum line of the actuator or install a solenoid valve between the tanks and the actuator to get it all working in loud mode

Please have a look at Artemis' photo's and check that your valve is actually opening and closing! Let us know if you see the valve in both the open en closed positions as pictured in those photo's.

Next time you're in the garage take some pictures and/or video for me so i can help you a little bit better. I would like to see the valve + actuator + the tubing connected to it. Try to take some pictures (preferably video) of the tubing routing. And please take a picture how the tubing is connected to your tanks.

To bad you're a long drive away otherwise I would be happy to drop by and help you out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by -cj- View Post
The valve defaults to white (closed) mode on start up. If you have the vacuum lines from the front of the engine bay hooked up to the wireless kit in the trunk, and ultimately the flapper on the muffler -- and the only thing you do not have hooked up is the power to the wireless transmitter, than the flap is closed.

There's a chance you might need to adjust the arm on the muffler, in the event that it isn't sealing. But I think the factory setting is fine..
Keep in mind that the valve only defaults to white because of the electronics in our wireless unit. By default the valve itself is normally-open, that's why we have the first loud start-up seconds (if there's no vacuum left in the tanks)

@3rdgear, please let us know if you have the rattle that cj mentioned.
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      12-04-2013, 02:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozinaldo View Post
Well, be careful to say the workshop guys that those were the thoughts of a 1Mmaniac...not just a maniac!

Sorry, had to say, nothing bad intended

Cheers.
I have no idea what you're talking about:

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      12-04-2013, 05:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mmaniac View Post
Please have a look at Artemis' photo's and check that your valve is actually opening and closing! Let us know if you see the valve in both the open en closed positions as pictured in those photo's.
Forum fellow 1mmaniac is referring to these photos:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=54

Good luck in sorting out the issue.
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      12-04-2013, 09:08 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mmaniac View Post
I have no idea what you're talking about:

Check post #35. He referred you as "maniac" as you can see. I found that funny, in a cute way
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      12-05-2013, 09:01 AM   #43
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Super helpful info guys. Really appreciate your help on this, I will visit workshop this weekend to hopefully sort this mysterious system and install my Cobb ap and afe intake.
I tried uploading photos but not successful neither, I've resized it and tried uploading a few but only one photo was successful
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      12-05-2013, 02:41 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozinaldo View Post
Check post #35. He referred you as "maniac" as you can see. I found that funny, in a cute way
Haha i got your joke @ozinaldo i was in sarcastic mode
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