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      02-17-2024, 01:40 PM   #1
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My 128i manual swap diaries

So if you follow my posting history, you'll see that I've had this car for about 6 years. The entire time I've had it, I've wished it was a manual. I progressively threw parts at the car so that one day I'd be able to track it. This swap should be the last thing I do until I actually track the car a few times. Only then will I know what other fun parts I want to throw at the car.

I can't start with day one because everything leading up to this point is essentially a day one.

So, here is what's been done:

Pre- day 1:
I bought a transmission. It was the n54 manual. I did my research AFTER I purchased the trans and decided that I didn't want to spend the extra money on a custom driveshaft to make it work on my 128i, especially because I want to keep the auto 3.73 diff. Even moreso because I put a refreshed diff in last summer...

So, $1500 down and nothing has been installed. Sold it for $1000 and picked up a used n52 manual trans for $400...

Moving on... I broke the shifter carrier somehow. I didn't notice it until after I took out the old bushings and installed the new ones. Ordered a new one (they're discontinued btw) and redid those bushings. Also did the rear shifter carrier bushing and a new selector rod seal on the trans. New trans bushings were also installed.

Day one:
Disconnected the battery. Pulled off the cowl. Put the car on wheel cribs. It's still not high enough for me to get the old auto transmission out/ slide the new(used) manual transmission in. Decided to keep plucking along for now and removed the belly pan. Noticed I'm leaking from my water pump, which I kind of already knew about. I'll deal with that later...

I think I'm done for today. Hasn't been a long day, but I'm budgeting 2 months so I don't want to spend too much time in the frustration zone. The wheel cribs not being tall enough kinda pissed me off, so yeah, I'll take a break for now.

I'll be updating my progress on this project as I move along. Feel free to follow along and comment on/question my process. 🙏🏽

P. S. for anyone wondering why I didn't just sell it and then purchase a manual car. My car has been pretty meticulously maintained. Selling it and then buying a manual puts me in an area where I may have to do all that maintenance all over again. Also, I paid $8000 6 years ago. I might get $8000 today if I sold it, but then I'd still have to spend about $12,000-15,000 to get a car if equal value to what I have. I'm about $1,700 into this project if I include all the little parts needed. That's way less expensive than just buying a proper manual.

Bro-tip: buy the auto and then manual swap it. You'll save some $$$ for other goodies, like actual track days or other go fast parts.
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      02-17-2024, 01:42 PM   #2
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Broken shifter carrier
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      02-17-2024, 03:09 PM   #3
mkeiser
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Following! Good luck
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      02-18-2024, 06:12 PM   #4
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Cool to hear some backstory on your car. If getting a new shifter carrier falls through, you could probably find a shop to tig weld that back together.

Also let's get some pics of the car!
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      02-19-2024, 08:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerealwars View Post
Cool to hear some backstory on your car. If getting a new shifter carrier falls through, you could probably find a shop to tig weld that back together.

Also let's get some pics of the car!
I was able to find a new carrier. I'll post some pics once things are a little more photogenic.

Hopefully tackling the exhaust today.
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      02-19-2024, 08:21 AM   #6
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Some pics of Blau
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      02-20-2024, 12:09 AM   #7
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am here for the updates 🫡

Would like to eventually do this to my car Blau you have a great build going, lemme know when you wanna talk engine performance 🙆🏽‍♂️
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Mods Done: AA Exhaust/Headers | 3SIM | MILVs | StageFP Dyno Tuned | Euro Box Intake Swap | LCI Blackline Tailights | OEM Euro Bi-Xenon Swap from Halogen | Rear Bumper M-Sport Swap | Rear PDC Retrofit | BMW OEM CF Diffuser/Spoiler | BMW Front Aero Kit | Supersprint Sec 1 Cat Delete Straight Pipes

To Do: Ohlins R n T Suspension | Front/Rear Sway Bars | M3 Front Control Arms/Bushings

Eventually: AT -> MT Swap (!?)
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      02-23-2024, 09:52 AM   #8
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The only engine performance mods being considered is which tune to go with. I might consider headers. MILVS are interesting, but not worth the trouble.

I'll need the tune to move the redline. I know the auto and manual cars have different redline points so I'll want to ensure I get all available revs. I have the 3 stage already as I'm working with the n51.
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      02-23-2024, 05:29 PM   #9
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I think I'll stop counting days. I'm mostly just doing small things right now since I can't commit large amounts of time.

Today I inspected the drain and fill plugs. They should be replaced. I drained the fluid and it looks like the guy I purchased the transmission from removed the fluid. There was a small amount of fluid left which looked clean. I saw no particles. New fluid will go in when the new fill and drain plugs come in.
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      02-24-2024, 02:57 PM   #10
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Just wow. Northeast car... Looks like violence will be necessary.
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      03-02-2024, 06:12 PM   #11
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Today I removed my center console, steering wheel, and the Burger Motorsports Paddle Shifter Retrofit kit.

Next up, assault on those exhaust bolts. If you've got any tips to share, I'm all ears.

Options that I am considering:
Drill a few spots in a line and then try to use a chisel to crack the nut.

Dremel tool with several cutting wheels and patience.

Cut the ears off and then weld new ones on later.

I'm reluctant to use a torch in this area. The car is in my garage which butts up to my kitchen. I can't afford that kind of mistake.
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      03-02-2024, 08:06 PM   #12
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Shear them off, replace with a bolt/nut combination when reassembling.
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      03-09-2024, 02:55 PM   #13
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Finally got those 4 flange bolts removed. It took a mini sawzall, Dremel tool, chisel, violence, not necessarily in that order. Few hours of work. Now I'm resting while my headlamp recharges. I tried getting those 4 exhaust cross member bolts out but watched as the torx head twisted my impact quality t50 socket when I tried getting it off with my breaker bar. Impact gun did nothing. All 4 bolts are currently soaking in PB blaster and I'll get back out there later. My goal is to get the exhaust off today.
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      03-09-2024, 06:13 PM   #14
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More on today...

Felt motivated to keep working a bit longer. I removed the heat shield along with the O2 sensor brackets. It doesn't look like the sensors themselves need removing. Tried a bit on the driveshaft to guibo but decided to give it a PB blaster bath and try again tomorrow. Still had a little gas in the tank so I removed the trans oil cooler lines and left it to drain into a bucket. There didn't seem to be a lot of oil. Lastly, I removed the automatic shifter. That step felt nice. I stopped here.

Next up is driveshaft.
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      03-10-2024, 06:58 PM   #15
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Driveshaft off. A lot easier once you soak things in PB Blaster overnight.

Torque converter bolts removed. That was a lot easier than the video and write up made it out to be. You can turn the torque converter from the little access hole on the bottom of the auto transmission. No need to have someone manually turn the crank.

Have to take a few days off. Next up, let's drop this auto!
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      03-16-2024, 07:32 PM   #16
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Uh huh...

Someone's not getting put back...
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      03-16-2024, 10:01 PM   #17
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Auto transmission is off!! Those top bolts were crazy. Also, if you're doing this job on your back, prepare for the ab work out of your life.

Notes: get the trans cooler lines out of the way before you attack the bell housing bolts. It clears a bit of room that you'll appreciate later.
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      03-24-2024, 11:32 AM   #18
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Flywheel off...

A little sticky (and seemingly old) oil crusted around the RMS/ OPG. Nothing seems active though. The flywheel was dry with no evidence of a leak. Nothing under the car/ heat shielding not showing a leak. I can't tell if this is an active leak.

Holding for a day or two to see if this RMS should get swapped out. I'm very reluctant as the success rate is only like 50%...

Question: does this light sheet metal "gasket" between the auto and motor stay?

✌🏽
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      03-24-2024, 04:43 PM   #19
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Learned that the sheet metal gasket thing stays. Sadly broke one of those bolts trying to use it to hold my makeshift flywheel lock. 🤷🏽‍♀️

Cleaned the RMS area well and decided I shouldn't change it after sending pics of it to various car friends. Got the new single mass flywheel installed. Got the clutch lined up with the tool and bolted down the pressure plate. All flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts got the red loctite treatment. I'm done for the day. Nightmares await me... Getting this trans up and bolted down all by myself is going to be super challenging.

I also noticed that something got a little messed up when I was leaning the engine back to undo those trans bolts because there is coolant all over the floor. I needed a new water pump anyway so I'll track that down later. Pressure tester is all ready to go.

Anyone know if my old auto, driveshaft, and torque converter are worth anything? Even for scrap? I don't want them in my yard for long.

✌🏽
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      03-24-2024, 04:50 PM   #20
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Pic of the single mass flywheel bolted and ugga-dugga'd. Pic of the clutch and pressure plate locked down.

And lastly a pic of the exhaust. No amount of heat and/or force has moved these studs. My thought is to get everything else done and then take it to the exhaust shop so they can finish dealing with this. I think I'm going to remove the secondary cats anyway.
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      03-28-2024, 07:25 PM   #21
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Manual transmission is installed!!

I had my cousin come over and help me and he kind of took over. The only bolt that sucked was the top, but once I got my hand on it I was able to attach the socket and hold it on while he tightened it so it wouldn't fall out.

Next up, plumbing.
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      03-28-2024, 08:00 PM   #22
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Siiiick! Nice work dude!
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