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      03-21-2017, 06:00 AM   #133
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I like how you made the toe arms.
Pretty cool
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      03-26-2017, 05:41 PM   #134
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My advice is to always do the seal for the gear selector shaft whenever you are doing a clutch job. If you don't have the special puller tool for the seal it is a big pain! When doing the install for the shifter parts I noticed the gear selector was leaking transmission oil. It has not been long after putting the new foam piece in the shifter assembly but I can already feel the side to side movement coming back. I knew this would happen since the oil was leaking out and soaking into the foam, reducing its effectiveness.

You need to pick at the seal until you can lift one of the edges and pull it out. Sounds easy but the seal itself is stamped metal with rubber moulded over it. Very cramped access to that area means most screwdrivers will end up just bending. Was about half an hour of swearing before I got it out. Definitely get the special tool for it!

Tool:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...or-83302219637

Seal:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...al-23121222677

This job requires the vbrace, exhaust, exhaust shield undertrays, propshaft and shifter assembly removed. Luckily I already had all that stuff off for a diff install.
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      03-26-2017, 06:06 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
My advice is to always do the seal for the gear selector shaft whenever you are doing a clutch job. If you don't have the special puller tool for the seal it is a big pain! When doing the install for the shifter parts I noticed the gear selector was leaking transmission oil. It has not been long after putting the new foam piece in the shifter assembly but I can already feel the side to side movement coming back. I knew this would happen since the oil was leaking out and soaking into the foam, reducing its effectiveness.

You need to pick at the seal until you can lift one of the edges and pull it out. Sounds easy but the seal itself is stamped metal with rubber moulded over it. Very cramped access to that area means most screwdrivers will end up just bending. Was about half an hour of swearing before I got it out. Definitely get the special tool for it!

Tool:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...or-83302219637

Seal:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...al-23121222677

This job requires the vbrace, exhaust, exhaust shield undertrays, propshaft and shifter assembly removed. Luckily I already had all that stuff off for a diff install.
This.

I made the mistake of taking it to a shop who told me they did not change the seal (even when I specifically told them to) because it "looked good and was not leaking". Over the next couple of weeks a leak developed. Took it back, they told me it was the oil pan leaking. $1000 later, they changed the oil pan seal and the leak was still there. They eventually changed the seal at the clutch which they should have done in the first place when I told them and leak is gone. They said my oil pan was leaking as well that's why they changed it. Was it really though? I don't think so. Expensive lesson. Sorry vtl - not thread jacking - just want people to know the importance of having this seal changed even if things "look ok".
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      03-26-2017, 06:06 PM   #136
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http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=21475469

After almost 2 years have finally got the M3 LSD in.

Big thanks to Socket and titium for lending a hand. It was a big job and having some helping hands definitely makes things easier.

The M3 diff, M3 axles and custom propshaft were swapped in. Also changed out the gear selector rod seal at the same time.

Result is no vibrations and a nicely locking LSD. Initially I test drove it with the e-diff and still felt like the rear brakes were still intervening a lot. I then coded it out and now the diff locks a lot more smoothly.

Very happy to have this installed and looking forward to doing some fun drives with it










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      03-26-2017, 06:21 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkatron View Post
This.

I made the mistake of taking it to a shop who told me they did not change the seal (even when I specifically told them to) because it "looked good and was not leaking". Over the next couple of weeks a leak developed. Took it back, they told me it was the oil pan leaking. $1000 later, they changed the oil pan seal and the leak was still there. They eventually changed the seal at the clutch which they should have done in the first place when I told them and leak is gone. They said my oil pan was leaking as well that's why they changed it. Was it really though? I don't think so. Expensive lesson. Sorry vtl - not thread jacking - just want people to know the importance of having this seal changed even if things "look ok".
Yeah I actually didn't change the rear main seal when I did my clutch. Thinking I probably should have. I avoided it because the plate cover on the rear main seal seals against the oil pan. To do the job properly you'd have to do the oil pan and rear main seal at the same time.

But actually it is possible to remove the rear main seal by screwing in some self tapping screws into the seal and pulling it out instead of removing the cover.
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      03-27-2017, 03:33 AM   #138
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How did you go about coding out the ediff? I installed a Quaife last week, and tbh have not noticed the ediff stepping in yet, but regardless am thinking best practice would still be to switch it off in the software.
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      03-27-2017, 05:53 AM   #139
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I coded it myself, I set the setting DIFF_LOCK to wert_00 in the DSC module using the a program called ncsexpert on my laptop. This will code the DSC module to not apply the rear brakes as an elsd.

In the case of a quaife (Torsen diff) you'd probably be better leaving it on, as the diff becomes open when a wheel unloads. The ediff can put some load on the diff and allow it to work, assuming the brakes are powerful enough.

In my case the GKN viscolok unit relies on a wheel speed difference to generate enough pressure to compress the clutch packs in the diff, so the elsd would hinder the operation of the unit
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      03-27-2017, 07:06 PM   #140
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subd for updates. awesome build. Great idea with the rear toe arms.
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      04-06-2017, 09:22 PM   #141
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Got a new set of Yokohama AD08Rs, got around 25k kms out of the rears. Fronts had some life left, keeping them for a skid pan day

The M3 LSD is going well, initially the diff made a bit of a groaning sound when doing full lock turns quickly, but now the diff has quietened down after about 800kms. At very low speeds on full lock you do hear the inside tyre shuffling a bit as well. Will be changing the fluid out after the 1k-2k kms mark.

The M3 GKN viscolok unit takes some time to get used to, it doesn't react immediately and relies on some wheelspin to generate some lock. I would honestly prefer a plate diff. Having said that, its a massive improvment and I get a lot less DSC intervention under power out of corners. Before you would have to just wait until the car is straight before touching the throttle but you can be quite early on the power now. The M3 diff does not seem to cause any power understeer, I have driven a Quaife unit which didn't really want to turn in under power.

I initially drove the car with almost bald rear tyres with the LSD, you can really do slides at much higher speeds than with the ediff, you will have to be more careful obviously. Before the ediff was pretty ineffective with grippy tyres in the dry, only with bald tyres in the wet it seemed to be effective in locking up the rear axle.

Now with the new AD08R tyres and LSD I sometimes get the inside wheel kicking up briefly before locking up, otherwise its usually just a slight intervention of DSC while the car is being propelled out of a corner quickly. I would say the best description is that the GKN unit feels like the stock ediff but has the power to lock up the axle at high speeds and on dry tarmac. You can definitely feel that it is a reactive system and a torsen diff is a lot smoother in how it biases the torque.

The GKN unit is capable of locking very hard, (up to 100% according to the specs), which you can definitely feel. Sometimes it is a bit of a disadvantage, as it can lock up a too hard and cause a bit of oversteer on corner exit. Currently my car is biased towards understeer so its not a big deal. Sounds like I am complaining but overall the pros outweight the cons. The LSD definitely gives the car a lot more character actually.

The GKN diff I think must be one of the main reasons why the 1M feels a bit twitchy, I think with a plate diff or torsen diff the character of the car would be changed again significantly under performance driving.

My only regret is not getting this LSD in sooner, it transforms the car. I would highly recommend getting an LSD into the car as soon as possible.


Heres an interesting youtube video comparing open, clutch and M variable (GKN viscolok) lsds:
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      04-16-2017, 08:40 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Got a new set of Yokohama AD08Rs, got around 25k kms out of the rears. Fronts had some life left, keeping them for a skid pan day

The M3 LSD is going well, initially the diff made a bit of a groaning sound when doing full lock turns quickly, but now the diff has quietened down after about 800kms. At very low speeds on full lock you do hear the inside tyre shuffling a bit as well. Will be changing the fluid out after the 1k-2k kms mark.

The M3 GKN viscolok unit takes some time to get used to, it doesn't react immediately and relies on some wheelspin to generate some lock. I would honestly prefer a plate diff. Having said that, its a massive improvment and I get a lot less DSC intervention under power out of corners. Before you would have to just wait until the car is straight before touching the throttle but you can be quite early on the power now. The M3 diff does not seem to cause any power understeer, I have driven a Quaife unit which didn't really want to turn in under power.

I initially drove the car with almost bald rear tyres with the LSD, you can really do slides at much higher speeds than with the ediff, you will have to be more careful obviously. Before the ediff was pretty ineffective with grippy tyres in the dry, only with bald tyres in the wet it seemed to be effective in locking up the rear axle.

Now with the new AD08R tyres and LSD I sometimes get the inside wheel kicking up briefly before locking up, otherwise its usually just a slight intervention of DSC while the car is being propelled out of a corner quickly. I would say the best description is that the GKN unit feels like the stock ediff but has the power to lock up the axle at high speeds and on dry tarmac. You can definitely feel that it is a reactive system and a torsen diff is a lot smoother in how it biases the torque.

The GKN unit is capable of locking very hard, (up to 100% according to the specs), which you can definitely feel. Sometimes it is a bit of a disadvantage, as it can lock up a too hard and cause a bit of oversteer on corner exit. Currently my car is biased towards understeer so its not a big deal. Sounds like I am complaining but overall the pros outweight the cons. The LSD definitely gives the car a lot more character actually.

The GKN diff I think must be one of the main reasons why the 1M feels a bit twitchy, I think with a plate diff or torsen diff the character of the car would be changed again significantly under performance driving.

My only regret is not getting this LSD in sooner, it transforms the car. I would highly recommend getting an LSD into the car as soon as possible.


Heres an interesting youtube video comparing open, clutch and M variable (GKN viscolok) lsds:

Agree with your sentiments Vince, it's a good diff for all purposes, something demonstrated clearly in the video where one wheel essentially has zero traction and the M diff vectors torque effectively to the wheel with traction, the complete opposite of a torsen LSD and open diff.

I actually had to take my 1M up a steep gravel driveway recently and there were some very tight corners and the car was scrabbling for traction - and finding it! I was super surprised, it just pulled up and through on skatey gravel, brilliant diff for mixed and low friction surfaces. Given it's street car application and design in a country that has snowy/icy roads in winter it was a very smart thing to do.

It's not the last word in performance or predictability, but I am learning from experience ans studying videos with the 1M it's more about carrying intertia into the corner and easing on the power through corner exit. It's a devastatingly fast car when driven right, I'm still learning. Spend some time with yours and you'll get more used to it as well, I'm sure it's a huge departure from the standard open diff.
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      04-24-2017, 06:31 AM   #143
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Have been experimenting with sway bars now.

I have already fitted an E92 M3 (26.5mm) front sway, result was positive, reduced the body roll and camber loss on full lean was reduced massively.

I bought an E93 M3 (28mm with 24.5mm taper) and tried it out. With the stock 12mm rear sway bar the car feels a bit off with such a stiff front and soft rear. I got a ton of front understeer when trying to take sharp corners quickly. The rear was too soft causing the front to unload. On more open corners, the increased front roll stiffness is beneficial, I noticed less understeer on long corners, as I was still experiencing camber loss on body lean. Additionally, I noticed the stiffer E93 sway meant i had more rear traction which was quite nice (bearing in mind I have the LSD). This is expected as a softer rear in relation to the front will aid in rear grip (in general).

These findings lead me to believe the front ride height is still too low and I have now decided I have outgrown the Bilstein B12s for my car. It is too low because I am still getting camber loss on full lean, if I raise the ride height this will give me better geometry for the front at the expense of some camber, and will also make the car more practical over speed bumps.

I feel the tyres generate too much grip for the B12s to keep up, the low ride height and fairly soft eibach springs mean it is not the most ideal setup for this vehicle. I think a coilover setup will work better and allow me to tune the suspension to match the upgraded parts such as the LSD, stiffer sways and bushings. With better dampers I should retain decent ride quality.

I ended up removing the E93 M3 sway and reverted to the E92 sway. Definitely getting more understeer on long corners and reduced understeer on taking sharp corners fast.
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      04-24-2017, 06:37 AM   #144
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Changed out the diff fluid from the LSD.

Old fluid looked pretty dirty, only did 2000kms on it so far. Hopefully just due to the fact it had been sitting for a while

Old vs New
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      04-27-2017, 06:21 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Changed out the diff fluid from the LSD.

Old fluid looked pretty dirty, only did 2000kms on it so far. Hopefully just due to the fact it had been sitting for a while

Old vs New
Still cant get over how much the fluid changed in that short a timeframe!

What coilovers are you going to go for?
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      04-27-2017, 06:48 PM   #146
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Still cant get over how much the fluid changed in that short a timeframe!

What coilovers are you going to go for?
Yeah got dirty pretty quickly but then I'm not sure whats normal for this diff.

Coilovers I am considering KW V3 which allows adjustable compression and rebound. Not a fan of the progressive springs it comes with though so I would probably want some swift springs with custom rates instead.

Otherwise maybe MCA/ohlins or might consider any deals that pop up on the classifieds
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      04-27-2017, 07:16 PM   #147
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TC klines are a great option.
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      04-29-2017, 08:01 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Yeah got dirty pretty quickly but then I'm not sure whats normal for this diff.

Coilovers I am considering KW V3 which allows adjustable compression and rebound. Not a fan of the progressive springs it comes with though so I would probably want some swift springs with custom rates instead.

Otherwise maybe MCA/ohlins or might consider any deals that pop up on the classifieds
I dropped my rear diff oil at 35,000km and it was quite dark too. Dark doesn't mean bad however, you'd need to get the oil analysed to establish how much wear metals are in it and how oxidised it is. The diffs been sitting and has unknown service history so drop it in another 15,000 or so and check it then.
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      05-03-2017, 11:10 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T1M View Post
I dropped my rear diff oil at 35,000km and it was quite dark too. Dark doesn't mean bad however, you'd need to get the oil analysed to establish how much wear metals are in it and how oxidised it is. The diffs been sitting and has unknown service history so drop it in another 15,000 or so and check it then.
I think my diff was quoted to have done 60k kms and I changed hte fluid when I removed the cover. Same colour too, I'm not too worried as the diff seems to lock properly and is very quiet now.
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      05-04-2017, 12:23 AM   #150
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Fitted a rear 15mm e9x sway bar when I did the diff fluid.

This bar is found on E93 Msport models and all XI AWD 3 series models. I bought mine from the USA which came off a 328xi.

The installation requires the rear subframe to be dropped quite a lot. Brake lines, vbrace and rear shocks needed to be disconnected before the subframe can be lowered enough to give enough space for the sway bar to fit.

I have done a few M3 rear sway bar installs on other cars, these bars are thicker and much harder to fit. If I was doing an E92 M3 22.5mm rear bar I would disconnect the rear section of the exhaust to lower it even more. While you can technically get away with not disconnecting the shocks and exhaust, it will make your job so much easier.

The stock bar is 12mm and while a 3mm increase in diameter doesnt sound like much, you have to remember the torsional stiffness of a bar increases by the 4th order of the diameter. Initial driving impressions are positive, its dialed out the understeer quite a bit and the car feels pretty neutral at the limit now. The only downside is the rear likes to step out a bit more.

Due to the poor weather I have been unable to reach the limits of grip in the dry to fully explore the high speed cornering. Will keep evaluating for a few extra weeks before throwing the E93 28mm front sway back on.
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      05-18-2017, 09:37 AM   #151
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Hi mate,
I have an MY11 with the Harmon Kardon upgrade. The head unit is slow to load MP3 track data from USB and could do with replacing. I don't have the sat nav upgrade. If I wanted to replace the head unit will current units fit in the same space, would a dual-DIN unit fit if the screen levered out?
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      05-20-2017, 06:22 AM   #152
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Hi mate,
I have an MY11 with the Harmon Kardon upgrade. The head unit is slow to load MP3 track data from USB and could do with replacing. I don't have the sat nav upgrade. If I wanted to replace the head unit will current units fit in the same space, would a dual-DIN unit fit if the screen levered out?
Hi mate, not sure what you're asking? You want to fit an aftermarket unit to replace your headunit? Theres kits that relocate the heater controls and give you a double DIN screen but theyre mostly from china and so the software would be pretty crummy.
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      05-20-2017, 06:38 AM   #153
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That is just what I'm after. Do you know of non-Chinese kits or can you recommend one from experience?
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      05-20-2017, 06:57 AM   #154
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That is just what I'm after. Do you know of non-Chinese kits or can you recommend one from experience?
Have only installed factory nav units myself. Don't have experience with aftermarket stuff. I would always recommend just doing the CIC navigation professional retrofit if you can afford it.
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