WTB: E82 135i Style 261 wheels

[bm49]

I would like to buy a pair of rear 135i wheels (8.5" x 18") in Style 261 but will take a full set including the 7.5" front pair , if necessary.
The wheels will be fitted with racing tyres so appearance is not my highest priority when considering a deal. Similarly, I will take wheels that have tyres fitted if required.

[titium]

highly recommended you get them spun up before purchase. the rears buckle so easily and most owners arnt even aware they are buckled. all thanks to 35 profile tyres

[bm49]

Thanks for the tip; I will check the wheels I have on hand. It is ironic that my decision to switch to "a square" setup using the factory wheels was prompted by an incident at Wakefield Park Raceway yesterday when one of my 8" front OZ Racing Ultralegga wheels cracked in several places with near-disastrous consequences during a race with a field of nearly 30 cars. This was the second wheel to crack in the last 2 race meetings and was surprising given Oz Racing's excellent pedigree. The wheels have been on the car for some 8 years and the 2 previous owners have generally run them with 40-series tyres but sometimes using semi slicks or high performance road/track tyres.
I have used BMW factory alloy wheels with both road and track tyres on a variety of 3-series models for more than 20 years and while heavier than some after-market wheels they have proved to be quite durable and have the huge benefit of being readily available and cheap to replace. Mind you I have never used a tyre with a profile lower than 40.

[callan91]

I have a set for $500 with tyres, rear two are bald on the inside, fronts are 70- 80%
Missing one centre cap however

[froop]

Originally Posted by bm49

Thanks for the tip; I will check the wheels I have on hand. It is ironic that my decision to switch to "a square" setup using the factory wheels was prompted by an incident at Wakefield Park Raceway yesterday when one of my 8" front OZ Racing Ultralegga wheels cracked in several places with near-disastrous consequences during a race with a field of nearly 30 cars. This was the second wheel to crack in the last 2 race meetings and was surprising given Oz Racing's excellent pedigree. The wheels have been on the car for some 8 years and the 2 previous owners have generally run them with 40-series tyres but sometimes using semi slicks or high performance road/track tyres.
I have used BMW factory alloy wheels with both road and track tyres on a variety of 3-series models for more than 20 years and while heavier than some after-market wheels they have proved to be quite durable and have the huge benefit of being readily available and cheap to replace. Mind you I have never used a tyre with a profile lower than 40.

You do panel to panel racing in your road registered 135i Bill? I hope I remembered your name correctly. I met you at a supersprint earlier in the year. I had the striped white 135i. What happened during the race if you don't mind me asking?

Forged aluminium is stronger than cast aluminium however as most manufacturers make their forged wheels significantly thinner and lighter, this compromises the overall integrity as well and hence are actually usually no stronger than a cast OEM wheel. Now if a manufacturer were to make a forged alloy wheel of the same or only slightly lighter construction compared to a cast OEM wheel, it would probably be nigh unbreakable.

Also, most wheel cracks are as a result of a bent or buckled rim putting too much pressure over one area of the wheel as it's no longer perfectly round.

[bm49]

Originally Posted by callan91

I have a set for $500 with tyres, rear two are bald on the inside, fronts are 70- 80%
Missing one centre cap however

That sounds like a good deal if I can arrange freight at a reasonable cost. Could you please send me a private message advising the suburb and postcode of your address so I can get some quotes.

[bm49]

Hi Alex
I remember you and your car very well. The cause of the wheel cracking is a mystery as there is no other damage to the wheels and I don't recall any serious kerbing incident (or potholes hit on the way from home to the track) that would have caused the cracking. I had checked and adjusted tyre pressures after Qualifying and Race 1 to recommended levels. There was about an hour gap before Race 3 and I did not notice any problems on the warm-up lap as the category's fastest car leads the field around to the grid at about 40 kph making it hard to load up the tyres to any degree. However after gaining a few positions after a great start good the steering felt very bad after the first 2 corners and I backed off and returned to the pits. As the dud wheel was on left front the consequences could have been very bad if I had done the usual high speed run towards Turn 2 without adequate pressure. Interestingly both wheels cracked on the inner tyre bead area.
As mentioned before I have been doing club sprints and races for 22 years in a variety of road and track cars and most of the BMW Clubsport Classes including a prize winning second place in the Racing Class in one annual competition in the late 1990's/early 2000's. In all that time I experienced only one bent rim when I jumped a ripple strip which had the dirt washed away from it's shoulder. Also a damaged rim following a small touch during a fight for a corner in a race. Some factory E36 M3 wheels even survived a high speed impact with a tyre wall after I aquaplaned off at Wakefield's T1 at about 160 kph in heavy rain; not so the car that sustained extensive sub-frame damage and had to be sold for parts.
As a retiree my motorsport budget is very small so I will switch over to a square setup using the E82 rear wheels and some front spacers together with an old non-assymetic patterned semi slick to give maximum flexibility for tyre swapping etc. The 135i is the heaviest car I have run on a track and it is reflected in even but high wear rates.
I am very frustrated today as I have had to reluctantly withdraw my entry for tomorrow's FOSC races at SMSP druitt circuit.
regards, Bill

[elburbs]

I've got a spare set of the wheels. set with no tires/ and set currently on my car.. in melb though :\

[bm49]

I might be interested in the set without tyres. Could you please give me a photo, a comment on condition and the price. Also your suburb so I can get a freight quote if price is acceptable. Thanks.

[BMWhoarder]

If you decide to buy a full set, let me know.
i wouldnt mind grabbing the fronts off you. I'm in canberra too so maybe we can split the freight charges

[garrathj]

I have a full set. They have gutter rash and are not too pretty but may be good for your needs.

They have tyres on them although they are no good.

Looking for about 350, happy to check on freight from Sydney for you.

[froop]

Originally Posted by bm49

Hi Alex
I remember you and your car very well. The cause of the wheel cracking is a mystery as there is no other damage to the wheels and I don't recall any serious kerbing incident (or potholes hit on the way from home to the track) that would have caused the cracking. I had checked and adjusted tyre pressures after Qualifying and Race 1 to recommended levels. There was about an hour gap before Race 3 and I did not notice any problems on the warm-up lap as the category's fastest car leads the field around to the grid at about 40 kph making it hard to load up the tyres to any degree. However after gaining a few positions after a great start good the steering felt very bad after the first 2 corners and I backed off and returned to the pits. As the dud wheel was on left front the consequences could have been very bad if I had done the usual high speed run towards Turn 2 without adequate pressure. Interestingly both wheels cracked on the inner tyre bead area.
As mentioned before I have been doing club sprints and races for 22 years in a variety of road and track cars and most of the BMW Clubsport Classes including a prize winning second place in the Racing Class in one annual competition in the late 1990's/early 2000's. In all that time I experienced only one bent rim when I jumped a ripple strip which had the dirt washed away from it's shoulder. Also a damaged rim following a small touch during a fight for a corner in a race. Some factory E36 M3 wheels even survived a high speed impact with a tyre wall after I aquaplaned off at Wakefield's T1 at about 160 kph in heavy rain; not so the car that sustained extensive sub-frame damage and had to be sold for parts.
As a retiree my motorsport budget is very small so I will switch over to a square setup using the E82 rear wheels and some front spacers together with an old non-assymetic patterned semi slick to give maximum flexibility for tyre swapping etc. The 135i is the heaviest car I have run on a track and it is reflected in even but high wear rates.
I am very frustrated today as I have had to reluctantly withdraw my entry for tomorrow's FOSC races at SMSP druitt circuit.
regards, Bill

Ah that's a shame you. I actually had the same thing happen with my first set of Forgestar rims. Repeated cracks in the inner bead area. I believe it was a combination of me jumping ripple strips and the negative camber causing a buckle and then subsequent crack. I had the cracks welded and the buckle fixed but they just kept cracking so I replaced the entire set. I believe it only needs to be very slightly bent before the integrity of the rim suffers. It doesn't need to be some very obvious buckle or dent in the wheel.

Originally Posted by ba114

If you decide to buy a full set, let me know.
i wouldnt mind grabbing the fronts off you. I'm in canberra too so maybe we can split the freight charges

If you can't find fronts and are interested, I have a spare pair of fronts lyingaround.

[BMWhoarder]

Mostly looking for fronts with decent tyres...