BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      01-22-2018, 06:15 PM   #1
taranfx
taranfx
taranfx's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
160
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i (N55) || 2015 328i
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Santa clara, CA

iTrader: (0)

Red face 2DD6 Valvetronic & running mods

I've a 2011 135i DCT N55 with 57k miles. My car has been throwing 2DD6 for a while:

Quote:
2DD6 Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: Shortcircuit or line break (open circuit)
Potential problem source(s):
- No power-supply voltage to sensors
- One or several wires to the position sensors is/are shorted to positive or ground
- One or several position sensor wires is open
- One or more position sensors in the Valvetronic actuator motor is defective
Mechanic told me I'll have to get VVT/eccentric shaft sensor replaced which is some good amount of money with labor.

Is it okay to let the car run as is? I don't really have any problems other than minor occasional rough idle ~(600-650 rpm)

Is it okay to flash and run car with MHD? Or should I get this fixed before trying any mods?

p.s. I've new spark plugs/coils, intake and exhaust manifolds are cleaned. No problems with WOT running stock.
__________________
2011 Z4 E89 35is 2015 F30 328i
Appreciate 0
      01-22-2018, 06:18 PM   #2
BimmerAg
Lieutenant
BimmerAg's Avatar
United_States
357
Rep
503
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i
Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Antonio, TX

iTrader: (0)

Advice that should apply to any car: Take care of maintenance and other issues before doing any mods.
__________________
2011 BMW 135i ///M-Sport, DCT
MHD Stage 1, cp-e Charge Pipe, H&R Front sway bar, BMW performance diffuser
Appreciate 3
      01-22-2018, 08:20 PM   #3
Havocsteve
Second Lieutenant
67
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: 2011 E82 135i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto, Canada

iTrader: (0)

I'm not throwing codes or CEL but I have the rough idle and cold start. I already replaced the VVT motor but I installed it wrong and I think fried the new part. I'm saving for it again but this time taking it to my indie mechanic because it took me 9 hrs the first time and messed it up. Lesson learned but it's ok to drive with the VVT not working (the vanos and such still works as intended but you lose the fuel eco and a slight delay in reaction time when throttle is pushed). But do replace the items needed before modding.

Might want to do a valve cover gasket and VVT gasket. There could be other parts that need replacing but those are the basics.
Appreciate 0
      01-23-2018, 08:47 PM   #4
taranfx
taranfx
taranfx's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
160
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i (N55) || 2015 328i
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Santa clara, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Havocsteve View Post
I'm not throwing codes or CEL but I have the rough idle and cold start. I already replaced the VVT motor but I installed it wrong and I think fried the new part. I'm saving for it again but this time taking it to my indie mechanic because it took me 9 hrs the first time and messed it up. Lesson learned but it's ok to drive with the VVT not working (the vanos and such still works as intended but you lose the fuel eco and a slight delay in reaction time when throttle is pushed). But do replace the items needed before modding.

Might want to do a valve cover gasket and VVT gasket. There could be other parts that need replacing but those are the basics.
Thank you so much for sharing your detailed experience. Will definitely follow your advice since I also have a 1-2 seconds delay with throttle.
Out of curiosity, at how many miles did your's fail?
__________________
2011 Z4 E89 35is 2015 F30 328i
Appreciate 0
      01-23-2018, 09:06 PM   #5
Havocsteve
Second Lieutenant
67
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: 2011 E82 135i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto, Canada

iTrader: (0)

I'm close to 94k kms but around 90k kms. It seems to be a common issue with the VVT motor going out. Not sure why but a few people have been having this issue. Works great when warm but cold start and idle can be choppy till things heat up.
Appreciate 0
      01-24-2018, 10:09 AM   #6
bbnks2
Captain
415
Rep
946
Posts

Drives: 135i N55
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by taranfx View Post
I've a 2011 135i DCT N55 with 57k miles. My car has been throwing 2DD6 for a while:


Mechanic told me I'll have to get VVT/eccentric shaft sensor replaced which is some good amount of money with labor.

Is it okay to let the car run as is? I don't really have any problems other than minor occasional rough idle ~(600-650 rpm)

Is it okay to flash and run car with MHD? Or should I get this fixed before trying any mods?

p.s. I've new spark plugs/coils, intake and exhaust manifolds are cleaned. No problems with WOT running stock.
The biggest issue is do you know what position your valves are currently in? If the valvetronic motor stopped working when the eccentric was at minimum valve lift the car wouldn't start at all (no intake valve airflow). However, knowing that the valves are NOT at minimum lift DOES NOT mean you can assume they are currently at MAX lift. You'd have to check the valve position by manually rotating the eccentric shaft to ensure that it is set to max valve lift... If the shaft isn't at max lift, you'll be limiting airflow.

Otherwise, there does not seem to be any ill effects of running without the eccentric shaft senor. All the eccentric shaft sensor does is provide feedback of actual valve angle the ensure proper actuation is being achieved by the valvetronic motor. Without valvetronic operating, the DME fail-safes to controlling airflow with the throttle plate like an N54 does.
__________________
135i: E30 map by TwistedTuning, VRSF DP, Kerscher +15mm fenders, Kosei K8R 255/40/17, M3 control arms, UUC trans mounts, DV+, Whiteline RSFB, 5" intercooler, Charge Pipe, PC925 (23lb), UUC SSK, YCW Coilovers 6k/16k, Monroe shock mounts, Diff lockdown, Catch Can, N20 TMAP, 335is clutch, SMFW, 034 engine mounts, M3 Steering rack

Last edited by bbnks2; 01-30-2018 at 10:30 AM.
Appreciate 0
      01-29-2018, 06:46 PM   #7
taranfx
taranfx
taranfx's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
160
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i (N55) || 2015 328i
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Santa clara, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
The biggest issue is do you know what position your valves are currently in? If the valvetronic motor stopped working when the eccentric was at minimum valve lift the car wouldn't start at all (no intake valve airflow). However, knowing that the valves are NOT at minimum lift DOES NOT mean you can assume they are currently at MAX lift. You'd have to check the valve position by manually rotating the eccentric shaft to ensure that it is set to max valve lift... If the shaft isn't at max lift, you'll be limiting airflow.

Otherwise, there does not seem to be any ill effects of running without the eccentric shaft senor. All the eccentric shaft sensor does is provide feedback of actual valve angle the ensure proper actuation is being achieved by the valvetronic. Without valvetronic operating, the DME fail-safes to controlling airflow with the throttle plate like an N54 does.
Since car runs fine, I'm assuming the valve is open. but how open is the question. I've the engine covers removed. Can you point me to where should I be looking? Any illustrations/videos should help
__________________
2011 Z4 E89 35is 2015 F30 328i
Appreciate 0
      01-30-2018, 07:49 AM   #8
gtjosh
Private
13
Rep
94
Posts

Drives: Silver 2011 135i DCT
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: New Braunfels, TX

iTrader: (1)

I think this video should help you. Its on a different motor (N52) but should still help.

Appreciate 1
atr_hugo232.50

      01-30-2018, 10:29 AM   #9
bbnks2
Captain
415
Rep
946
Posts

Drives: 135i N55
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by taranfx View Post
Since car runs fine, I'm assuming the valve is open. but how open is the question. I've the engine covers removed. Can you point me to where should I be looking? Any illustrations/videos should help
You need to take the valve cover off, or drill a 4mm hole into it... then use an allen key (4mm) to manually rotate the eccentric shaft until the valves are at full lift (clockwise).

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-gear/CyzwchK9

If you take the valve cover off you might as well just replace the valvetronic motor...
__________________
135i: E30 map by TwistedTuning, VRSF DP, Kerscher +15mm fenders, Kosei K8R 255/40/17, M3 control arms, UUC trans mounts, DV+, Whiteline RSFB, 5" intercooler, Charge Pipe, PC925 (23lb), UUC SSK, YCW Coilovers 6k/16k, Monroe shock mounts, Diff lockdown, Catch Can, N20 TMAP, 335is clutch, SMFW, 034 engine mounts, M3 Steering rack
Appreciate 0
      02-02-2018, 05:57 AM   #10
taranfx
taranfx
taranfx's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
160
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i (N55) || 2015 328i
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Santa clara, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
You need to take the valve cover off, or drill a 4mm hole into it... then use an allen key (4mm) to manually rotate the eccentric shaft until the valves are at full lift (clockwise).

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-gear/CyzwchK9

If you take the valve cover off you might as well just replace the valvetronic motor...
Some mechanic told me that sensor and motor is single component on N55 2011 135i. And to replace both together, one needs calibration and all which is a very technical job. Is that true?
__________________
2011 Z4 E89 35is 2015 F30 328i
Appreciate 0
      02-02-2018, 09:21 AM   #11
bbnks2
Captain
415
Rep
946
Posts

Drives: 135i N55
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by taranfx View Post
Some mechanic told me that sensor and motor is single component on N55 2011 135i. And to replace both together, one needs calibration and all which is a very technical job. Is that true?
The eccentric shaft sensor is in the valvetronic motor, yes. If your sensor is what is bad then you need to replace the valvetronic motor.

Also, he is part right. The instructions are in my post above... TIS is the guide BMW techs use to do the job. The only technical part about it is to perform the "run-in" procedure which is done with ISTA. I am not sure how necessary that is though since the DME will try to re-learn the stop limits upon startup?
__________________
135i: E30 map by TwistedTuning, VRSF DP, Kerscher +15mm fenders, Kosei K8R 255/40/17, M3 control arms, UUC trans mounts, DV+, Whiteline RSFB, 5" intercooler, Charge Pipe, PC925 (23lb), UUC SSK, YCW Coilovers 6k/16k, Monroe shock mounts, Diff lockdown, Catch Can, N20 TMAP, 335is clutch, SMFW, 034 engine mounts, M3 Steering rack
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2018, 02:19 PM   #12
Havocsteve
Second Lieutenant
67
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: 2011 E82 135i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto, Canada

iTrader: (0)

I just bought a new VVT motor for less then $500 CAD from BMW today while I got my oil change. If you search the forum or click my name and look at the post I made, I took pictures of myself doing the job from start to finish. I would recommend sourcing the parts yourself to save some money but get a tech/mechanic to install it. I messed up when I put the shaft 180 degrees backwards when I put everything back together.

Quick search : http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1435087

Link to my post about installing the eccentric shaft. Just so you know, that was a 9 hour job with my father who builds engines. Our current project is putting a 6/71 Weilands supercharger on his 496 stroker big block. Should push around 1300hp afterwards. So this isn't a task for the mechanically handicapped.
Appreciate 0
      02-04-2018, 11:31 PM   #13
taranfx
taranfx
taranfx's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
160
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i (N55) || 2015 328i
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Santa clara, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Havocsteve View Post
I just bought a new VVT motor for less then $500 CAD from BMW today while I got my oil change. If you search the forum or click my name and look at the post I made, I took pictures of myself doing the job from start to finish. I would recommend sourcing the parts yourself to save some money but get a tech/mechanic to install it. I messed up when I put the shaft 180 degrees backwards when I put everything back together.

Quick search : http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1435087

Link to my post about installing the eccentric shaft. Just so you know, that was a 9 hour job with my father who builds engines. Our current project is putting a 6/71 Weilands supercharger on his 496 stroker big block. Should push around 1300hp afterwards. So this isn't a task for the mechanically handicapped.
I read through your thread. Its very valuable info. I'm glad I didn't try it myself.
Did you get it fixed now? how bad was your rough idle before and after?
__________________
2011 Z4 E89 35is 2015 F30 328i
Appreciate 0
      02-05-2018, 07:58 PM   #14
Havocsteve
Second Lieutenant
67
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: 2011 E82 135i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto, Canada

iTrader: (0)

I haven't gotten it fixed yet, just sourced the part. The rough idle is always the same, just a bad "hickup" once the rpms start to settle around the 800 range, then it jumps and starts to settle again. Only on cold start. The idle at a red light when warmed up you can feel the slight hickup but the rpms always show 650ish.
Appreciate 0
      02-05-2018, 08:29 PM   #15
taranfx
taranfx
taranfx's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
160
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i (N55) || 2015 328i
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Santa clara, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Havocsteve View Post
I haven't gotten it fixed yet, just sourced the part. The rough idle is always the same, just a bad "hickup" once the rpms start to settle around the 800 range, then it jumps and starts to settle again. Only on cold start. The idle at a red light when warmed up you can feel the slight hickup but the rpms always show 650ish.
Exactly what happens on my car.
Additionally, throttle lag in D mode. Or is D mode designed to be laggy?
(Sport mode is fine).
__________________
2011 Z4 E89 35is 2015 F30 328i
Appreciate 0
      02-12-2018, 06:52 PM   #16
Havocsteve
Second Lieutenant
67
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: 2011 E82 135i
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto, Canada

iTrader: (0)

D is slight delay in gear shifts (the pressure plate doesn't engage rapid like sport mode does). It also adjust the throttle position a bit and raises the rpms slightly for the more sporty feel.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:34 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST