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      07-06-2016, 07:42 PM   #1
JCip91
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2012 BMW 135i  [0.00]
DIY: AC Condenser and AC Recharge

My condenser was leaking from day one of ownership and I finally got around to fixing it. This is my first DIY so bare with me Before you start make sure the AC system is completely evacuated. Freon is harmful and all that bad stuff.

It was not a very difficult DIY. The hardest part was probably putting the intercooler back up. On a scale from 1 to 5 I would say it was a 2.

Tools needed:
  • AC Manifold gauges
  • 2 12oz R134a cans (No additives)
  • PAG-46 ND-OIL8 AC Refrigerant Oil
  • Vacuum Pump
  • Scale
  • Coolant
  • #6 Allen Key
  • 8mm socket
  • T25 Torx
  • T27 Torx
  • Screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Socket set and various extensions
  • Trim piece removal tools
  • Jack and jack stands
  • Freon can adapter

Manifold Gauges with Vacuum pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Refrigerant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The steps with an asterisks are not necessary but they did help create more space to work with.
Removing and installing the Condenser:

Step 1*: Removing the front bumper.


They are 4 black T27 bolts up top.


8 or so 8mm bolts, 4 on each side, on the bottom. Or more if you have the under tray installed, which I did not. On a side note, if you choose to leave it off like I did when I did the intercooler make sure you remove the 2 trays under the transmission or they WILL get blown off...


And 6 8mm bolts, 3 on each side, in the wheel wells. The third one not pictured is farther up the wheel well and is facing downwards.


After that take a trim removal tool and push it in between the metal bracket and bumper where the fender meets the bumper. Once inserted just give it a good tug and the bumper will come off.



I have head light washers so I needed to remove the covers before the bumper came off. It was pretty easy. Just pull them out via the cover and remove it. You can see how they are attached. A little bit of washer fluid will come out when you do pull them out.

Step 2: Remove air intake, air intake track and charge pipe.


I set the air intake and charge pipe on the top. The MAF has a good amount of slack and the JB4 gave the MAP sensor a good amount of slack as well.

Step 3: Disconnect and remove the fan.


If you have an auto or the DCT you will need to take the Transmission cooler off. It is pretty simple. Just unscrew the T25 Torx and lift up and let it hang. It's not too heavy and the hoses are big enough to support it


The fan is connected by a T25 Torx screw in the upper left hand corner and two clips about half way down the sides. Just push the clip away and pull up. Don't forget to disconnect the electrical plug up top and move the coolant line out of the way.

Step 4: Put car on jack stands

Step 5: Remove the intercooler and associated hoses.


Removing the intercooler inlet hose will give you a little more room to push the radiator out of the way.

Step 6*: Drain the radiator.
You don't really need to drain all the coolant. Just enough to were you can disconnect the upper radiator hose and not spill anything when you move it out of the way.

Step 7*: Remove upper radiator hose.
Pull the clip up with a screwdrive or some pliers and pull off. The hose itself is stuck on there pretty good. I held the radiator as my father pulled the hose off.

Step 8: Unscrew the radiator mounting screws.
These are two T25 Torx screws at the upper most corners on the radiator end tanks.


This is the one on the right, next to the upper radiator hose


And this one is on the left.

Step 9: Disconnected the hot and cold AC lines.

Use the #6 Allen key and start with the top one first. Move them out of the way.



Step 10: Remove the condenser support clip.
This was a pain to remove as you had to push the radiator away as you squeezed a hand in there with a screwdriver. The two places that secure the clip in place are at the two ends of the clip. I put the screwdriver under the middle section and lifted and it popped right off.


The red arrow is pointing to the middle to put the screwdriver under. You may need to get your other hand in there to use it for leverage.

Step 11: Removing the condenser mount screw.


Its a T25 Torx in the middle of the AC lines mounting points. It's a long one.

Step 12: Remove the condenser.
As long as you keep the radiator away far enough it will come out pretty easily. I actually got a little frustrated and cut one of the things that holds the fan electrical plug to the support beam. It gave me an extra inch to work with.

Step 13: Install new condenser.
Reverse of Step 11. Just be careful of the radiator resting or rubbing on the condenser. Don't want to put a hole in the new one.

Step 14: Reinstall everything.
Before I did this I did pull a vacuum on the AC system just in case there was a leak. Didn't want to start all over again if there was.

Also when reconnecting the AC lines to the condenser make sure you can hand thread the screws in before taking your socket or whatever to it. The screws should go in by hand without a problem. If they don't move the connector around until they do.

Charging the AC System.

If you want to see a video of this process I highly recommend the ChrisFix video. His videos are pretty awesome.


Step 1: Hooking up the Manifold Gauges
Pretty simple. I used the hood latch to hang the gauges and had the pump on the ground. The yellow hose is long enough to reach the ground from the hood. Take the blue hose valve and hook it up to the cold tap and take the red hose valve and hook it up to the hot tap. Both taps are located next to the air box. The hot tap is larger than the cold tap so don't worry on getting them mixed up.



Step 2: Pulling a vacuum.
Check to see if the hose valves are open and if they are not, open them. Keep the gauge valves closed for now.

Hook up the vacuum pump to the yellow line and turn it on. Go to the gauge valves and open the cold side first then the hot side. You should now see the dial start to move. The lowest vacuum that my pump pulled was around -25psi on both sides. Keep the pump running for at least 30 minutes. This will draw out all of the moisture from the system.

Step 3: Keeping the vacuum.
Turn both gauge valves off and then turn the pump off. Keep the vacuum for an hour or so to verify they are no leaks in the system. Do NOT release the vacuum after this step. Keep the valve closed until you are ready to add the Freon.

Step 4: Preparing to add Freon
The system requires 1.36 pounds of Freon. That is around 21 oz and since each can is 12 oz we need one full can and one part can. For those who can't math, like me, the other can should have 3 oz left over. For the scale I kept it on the ground and used a box so the hose could reach the can.

Adding the oil was honestly a crap shoot. The Denso compressor requires PAG-46 ND-OIL 8. To add the oil just add a little to the yellow hose connection that hooks up to the Freon can. The oil will be drawn in with the refrigerant.

Step 5: Hook up Freon can with gauges
Take the tap and back the pin all the way out then screw the tap on to a can. You may need an adapter for the tap for the yellow hose to connect. If you do, put it on the yellow hose first so you can add the refrigerant oil. The kit I bought already had one. If you don't need an adapter then awesome! Add a little bit of oil, either to the adapter or the yellow hose, and connect it to the tap.


Here is how I had it set up. You can see the adapter between the tap and yellow hose (Red arrow).

Puncture the can and unscrew to allow the Freon to flow. Bleed the yellow hose to make sure there is no air in there. The bleeder valve is what the blue arrow is pointing at.

Step 6: Turn on car.
Turn the car and the AC on. Keep the AC on its lowest temperature and fan setting.

Step 7: Add the Freon.
Slowly opened up the cold side valve on the gauges. Do not touch the hot side. Keep it closed until the very end. The Freon will now entire the system. You can see it enter through the little looking glass on the gauges. If the flow slows down give the can a little shake and it will push more Freon in.

The cold side went to around 80psi until the compressor kicked on and then dropped to around 45-50psi. The hot side spiked to around 200psi then settled around 150psi.

When it is time to switch cans close the valve on the gauges, close the tap and then take the can off. Hook up, puncture, and release the new can. Bleed the yellow hose and then slowly turn the blue dial. Take the can to the scale and wait until there is 3oz left. Close the blue dial on the gauges and close the tap.

Step 8: Finishing up.
Close the hot and cold taps by the engine and disconnect them. Disconnect the can from the yellow hose but keep it closed.

And you are done! Let me know if you guys have any questions about the guide and I will do my best to answer them.
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TiAg n55 DCT - FBO, suspension stuff, some aero
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      07-06-2016, 10:01 PM   #2
ianc
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Great write-up, thanks for posting! Sounds fairly horrendous replacing the condenser...

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      07-26-2016, 02:09 AM   #3
thetyrant
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Good write up thanks, im about to tackle the condenser on my 2010 N55 135i over here in the UK so fingers crossed it goes ok!

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      06-12-2020, 08:05 PM   #4
Amhague
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Resurrecting this a bit.

It should be noted that you can borrow the tools required to do the vacuum and refill of the R134A from auto parts stores.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../67128/4700299


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../67127/4700298
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