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      03-22-2021, 07:24 PM   #1
Dieselboy
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Widebody Track Car Build

How it started:
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Wrecked:
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Current Progress (as of 6/2023):
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SPECS:
2009 135i, 46k miles
6 speed manual transmission (swapped from an automatic)

Engine
- Pure Stage 2 Hi-Flow Twin Turbos with 2" inlet
- High Flow Relocation 2" Inlets
- RB Heat shield and Forge Turbo Blankets
- JB4 with MHD back-end flash
- ER Charge Pipe & Tial BOV
- Aluminum Coolant Expansion Tank Relocation Kit
- Custom Intake and Air box
- Turner Vacuum Canister Relocation Kit
- RB PCV Valve
- ECS Tuning Baffled Oil catch can
- NGK 97506 2-Step Colder Spark Plugs
- 3.5 BAR TMAP Sensor

Fueling
- Precision Raceworks Stage 3 Bucketed Performance LPFP

Exhaust
- AR Catless Downpipes
- N55 Midpipe
- Berks Race Axle Back

Drivetrain
- Auto-to-Manual swap
- XClutch 9" Solid Organic Twin Disc Clutch Kit
- Turner Solid Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushings
- Turner Motorsport Solid Aluminum Engine And Transmission Mounts
- Complete Performance Polyurethane Differential Bushing Set - 95A
- Turner Double Adjustable Short Shift Kit

Brakes / Wheels / Tires
- Stoptech Trophy BBK with 355x32mm AeroRotors
- Custom Brake Cooling Ducts
- Work Meister M1 3pc Wheels, F:18x10.5 ET+4 R:18x12 ET-2
- Toyo R888R 275/35 & 315/30

Cooling
- CSF High Performance Aluminum Radiator
- VRSF Stepped 5" Intercooler + Lower Charge pipe
- Setrab oil cooler + stock oil cooler, plumbed with AN10
- Improved Racing High-Flow 185F External Thermostat
- Burger Motorsports Cowl Delete Filters

Suspension
- Öhlins Road and Track RTR Suspension Kit (3DM "TrackDay")
- Swift Springs: 80/140 Nmm (457/800 lb/in) & Rear Helper Springs
- Vorshlag racing camber plates w/65mm perches
- AKG Sperical bearing lower rear Shock Mount
- 1M/M3 front control arms

Interior
- Autopower Race Roll Cage
- Sparco Evo S QRT Fiberglass Racing Seat (driver)
- Sparco Evo QRT Fiberglass Racing Seat (passenger)
- Sparco FIA Prime H-7 6-Point Harness (driver)
- Sparco FIA Steel 6-Point Harness (passenger)
- Antigravity ATX30 RE-START Lithium Battery
- Trunk Floor Filler Panel
- 1M Leather Shift Knob & Boot
- Rennline Aluminum Pedal Set

Exterior/Aero
- Clinched BMW E82 widebody kit
- APR Carbon Fiber 71" Rear Airfoil
- Custom 4" Front Splitter
- E90 Chassis-Mount Spoiler Upright Kit
- Seibon BM Carbon Hood with Aerocatch latches
- Nelson Racing Wheel full carbon sunroof delete panel
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2009 Widebody 135i ///Build Thread

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If you ride like lightning, you're gonna crash like thunder.

Last edited by Dieselboy; 06-29-2023 at 07:11 AM..
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      03-22-2021, 07:33 PM   #2
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The repair:

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My intention was just to get it road worthy again and probably sell it. I replaced the front subframe and the damaged suspension bits with used, stock parts.
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Rear subframe had to be replaced as well. (I really regret not getting the solid RSFB when I had it out!)
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She sure took a big hit.
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My DIY rear diff nut wrench.
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Pulling out the dents.
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The car was drivable, passed state inspection and alignment was spot on. I figured a good shakedown test would be a 1200 mile road trip to climb Mount Washington. The car drove fantastically and I fell in love with her again.
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2009 Widebody 135i ///Build Thread

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If you ride like lightning, you're gonna crash like thunder.

Last edited by Dieselboy; 01-11-2022 at 09:13 PM..
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      03-22-2021, 07:49 PM   #3
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The driverside rear quarter was pretty badly damaged and I was quoted $5-6k for a full repair. Well, I could think of a much better way to spend that money and decided to go all in. I chose the Clinched kit as it was really the best option in terms of fit and finish.

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I started to cut out the fenders. I started with the damaged quarter and was able to pull out the dent.
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With the flare on, it covered pretty much all of the damage so I won't have much bodywork to do.
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This idea of building an over-the-top track focused car started to take over. I opted for the Chassis-Mount Upright Kit. I am still waiting for my 71" APR Carbon Fiber rear Airfoil to arrive.
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2009 Widebody 135i ///Build Thread

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If you ride like lightning, you're gonna crash like thunder.

Last edited by Dieselboy; 01-11-2022 at 09:14 PM..
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      03-22-2021, 07:57 PM   #4
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Exciting project you got going here. Looking forward to seeing the progress
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      03-22-2021, 08:03 PM   #5
Dieselboy
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And that's where I currently am.

On order:
  • Öhlins Road and Track (BMU Mi01)
  • Vorshlag racing camber plates w/65mm perches
  • AKG Spherical bearing lower Shock Mount
  • Swift Springs
  • Turner Solid Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushings

Once I start getting some of these parts in I am going to get the Pure Stage 2 Hi-Flow turbos. I already have the 2" MMP relocation inlets/outlets ready and waiting. I'll also upgrade to the Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP. Lucky for me the gas station down the street has E85, so I'll be tuning to that with a goal of 550-600 WHP.

My biggest headache right now is finding a good set of 3-piece wheels with the widths and offsets I need for proper fitment to run without spacers. The fronts will be 18"x10.5" et~8mm and the rears will be 18"x12" et~-1mm.
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Last edited by Dieselboy; 03-22-2021 at 08:13 PM..
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      03-25-2021, 05:25 PM   #6
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When I contacted Work regarding fitment they told me the Work Meister M1 18" would not fit using any disk type, and that I would need to run a 19" to clear the calipers. This didn't make sense to me, even with the stepped lip. The brake caliper diameter is approximately 15" and the offset from the hub face is approximately 0.375".

I decided to create the wheel and BMW front hub and caliper in CAD and see for myself. Dimensionally I only have the offset, outer diameter, width, and lip length to go off of, the rest I estimated worst case and based it off the images I found the best I could. The wheel I based this off of is the Work Meister M1 18"x10.5" et+4 with a lip distance of 83mm, R disk.

The model indicates a clearance of 0.5" from the top of the caliper to the inner diameter of the barrel (assuming a 16" inner diameter as worst case). It also shows a clearance of 0.51" from the caliper to the disk bolts (estimated disk profile, so this is where I would be nervous of real world interference).

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An exploded view of the wheel.

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I also did a quick mock up with a fender and tire to get an idea of where everything will end up. The tire is about an 1/8 inch in from the outside fender. This is at 0 deg camber. I calculated 2.5 degrees of camber should move the top of the tire inboard approximately 0.5".

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      03-26-2021, 08:28 AM   #7
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I see in your thread you don't want to have to use spacers. Any particular reason you are against that? You would have much more affordable options, and less headache, going the route of adjusting any backspacing issues with a set of spaces, as I'm sure you are aware based on all of the research you have done it appears.
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      03-26-2021, 02:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mKilgore View Post
I see in your thread you don't want to have to use spacers. Any particular reason you are against that? You would have much more affordable options, and less headache, going the route of adjusting any backspacing issues with a set of spaces, as I'm sure you are aware based on all of the research you have done it appears.
I wouldn't be opposed to hubcentric spacers, but I wanted the widest wheels I could fit. If APEX made a 12" wide wheel I probably would have went that route. I've never spent more than 10 minutes looking at wheels until this build so I'm definitely open to suggestions.

WORK_USA said the wheels won't fit. WORK_Japan and my CAD model says they will.
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      03-26-2021, 02:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
I wouldn't be opposed to hubcentric spacers, but I wanted the widest wheels I could fit. If APEX made a 12" wide wheel I probably would have went that route. I've never spent more than 10 minutes looking at wheels until this build so I'm definitely open to suggestions.

WORK_USA said the wheels won't fit. WORK_Japan and my CAD model says they will.
Apex makes an EC-7 in an 11" ET25. With a 17mm front spacer and 20mm rear you can get very close to the goal offsets you mentioned above.

There's nothing to worry about with running spacers on track. The Apex ones will clear the brakes no problem and the 50% off replacement wheels, especially for tracking a car, is a big bonus. I don't know what kind of price the works wheels would be, but if they are custom to get the offsets you want, I'd assume the Apex's would be more economical as well. Just another option!
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      03-26-2021, 04:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
Apex makes an EC-7 in an 11" ET25. With a 17mm front spacer and 20mm rear you can get very close to the goal offsets you mentioned above.

There's nothing to worry about with running spacers on track. The Apex ones will clear the brakes no problem and the 50% off replacement wheels, especially for tracking a car, is a big bonus. I don't know what kind of price the works wheels would be, but if they are custom to get the offsets you want, I'd assume the Apex's would be more economical as well. Just another option!
I looked at the EC-7s because I love that style wheel and they are popular and affordable. I made a table in excel to calculate the total outboard and inboard displacement. I would need a 22mm spacer in front and a 38mm spacer in the rear to match a wider, larger offset wheel. I didn't want to use spacers that large or stack spacers. I also don't want to run much larger than a 265 front tire. A 265 Toyo R88R has a 10.1" tread width which will give me just enough stretch to preload the tire enough for improved front end feel.

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      03-26-2021, 04:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
I looked at the EC-7s because I love that style wheel and they are popular and affordable. I made a table in excel to calculate the total outboard and inboard displacement. I would need a 22mm spacer in front and a 38mm spacer in the rear to match a wider, larger offset wheel. I didn't want to use spacers that large or stack spacers. I also don't want to run much larger than a 265 front tire. A 265 Toyo R88R has a 10.1" tread width which will give me just enough stretch to preload the tire enough for improved front end feel.

Attachment 2562928
~20mm spacer would be fine as you can find them pretty readily and are proper hub centric. What's the reason for not wanting more then 265s up front?
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      03-26-2021, 05:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
~20mm spacer would be fine as you can find them pretty readily and are proper hub centric. What's the reason for not wanting more then 265s up front?
The fronts would have worked, but no way I could get an 11" rear to fit without a huge offset. I didn't have much luck finding a 12" rear that wasnt a 19"+ diamter either. I like the Works, and at ~750 per wheel it's not too bad. It's the 5+ month lead time that really sucks.

Solid RSFB arrived today. I'll probably do the tranny bushes too while I have the subframe down.

Last edited by Dieselboy; 01-12-2022 at 07:09 PM..
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      03-26-2021, 05:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
The fronts would have worked, but no way I could get an 11" rear to fit without a huge offset. I didn't have much luck finding a 12" rear that wasnt a 19"+ diamter either. I like the Works, and at ~750 per wheel it's not too bad. It's the 5+ week lead time that really sucks.

Solid RSFB arrived today. I'll probably do the tranny bushes too while I have the subframe down.
Ya, the rear is the tricky one.

While the subframe is down, do a rear sway bar if you haven't already! That would be the time.
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      03-26-2021, 05:20 PM   #14
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Got the tool too off of ebay. I'll look into the swaybar.

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      03-26-2021, 10:17 PM   #15
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These look just like my Turner solid RSFBs. Interesting that they choose not to drill lightening holes in the forward bushings, but they do in the rear.

This means that the forward bushings collect water in the top. If I were doing it again, I would drill the fronts like the backs, before I installed them to save a small amount of weight, but primarily for drainage.
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      03-28-2021, 10:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
These look just like my Turner solid RSFBs. Interesting that they choose not to drill lightening holes in the forward bushings, but they do in the rear.

This means that the forward bushings collect water in the top. If I were doing it again, I would drill the fronts like the backs, before I installed them to save a small amount of weight, but primarily for drainage.
These are from Turner. Thanks for the tip!
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      03-28-2021, 08:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
These look just like my Turner solid RSFBs. Interesting that they choose not to drill lightening holes in the forward bushings, but they do in the rear.

This means that the forward bushings collect water in the top. If I were doing it again, I would drill the fronts like the backs, before I installed them to save a small amount of weight, but primarily for drainage.
Yep, this is why I got the Bimmerworld bushings my second go-round. Plus they were a couple bucks cheaper.
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      03-29-2021, 08:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
Yep, this is why I got the Bimmerworld bushings my second go-round. Plus they were a couple bucks cheaper.
Bimmerworld's bushings are hard anodized also. Definitely some value added there. Turner's are bare aluminum.
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      03-29-2021, 12:06 PM   #19
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Just purchased the Complete Performance Polyurethane Bushing Set for the differential. I am going to hold off on the swaybar as I've read some disconnect it completely to deal with oversteer on a higher powered car with harder/solid bushings.

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      03-30-2021, 02:49 PM   #20
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The 71" APR Carbon Fiber rear Airfoil arrived today. I was waiting for the wing before mounting the uprights. I also found out the bolts to mount the wing to the uprights are not included, so I'll have to grab 4x M8's. The plan for aero will include a home built front splitter and rear diffuser.

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      03-30-2021, 03:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
The 71" APR Carbon Fiber rear Airfoil arrived today. I was waiting for the wing before mounting the uprights. I also found out the bolts to mount the wing to the uprights are not included, so I'll have to grab 4x M8's. The plan for aero will include a home built front splitter and rear diffuser.
Been meaning to ask, are the chassis mounted uprights the e90 ones from Hard Motorsport?
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      03-30-2021, 07:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Been meaning to ask, are the chassis mounted uprights the e90 ones from Hard Motorsport?
Yep. Fitment is ok, will definitely require some customization to fit just right.
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