BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

View Poll Results: I own a...
2008 model and the waterpump failed. 161 14.96%
2008 model and the waterpump is ok. 179 16.64%
2009 model and the waterpump failed. 58 5.39%
2009 model and the waterpump is ok. 180 16.73%
2010 model and the waterpump failed. 11 1.02%
2010 model and the waterpump is ok. 78 7.25%
2011 model and the waterpump failed. 60 5.58%
2011 model and the waterpump is ok. 148 13.75%
2012 model and the waterpump failed. 39 3.62%
2012 model and the waterpump is ok. 82 7.62%
2013 model and the waterpump failed. 11 1.02%
2013 model and the waterpump is ok. 69 6.41%
Voters: 1076. You may not vote on this poll

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      05-08-2018, 03:38 PM   #507
1smokehouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
What do you mean by surging? Can you make a video ?

Like its going from low to high speed ? That could be a bad temp sensor. ?


Dack
That's what I was also thinking. Yes, the speed is going from low to high then off is a space of 4-5 seconds with a pause and then it repeats. The fan speeds are higher when the a/c is on.

After driving for 20-30 minutes yesterday, the yellow overheating light came on, but the red light never came on. Turned it off and back on again and it went away. My commute to work is only 10 minutes, so I didn't get the warning light since the first day when I drove it home from the shop.
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// '13 SGM 135i M-Sport DCT PPK //
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      05-10-2018, 04:16 PM   #508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1smokehouse View Post
Still have one issue after picking up my car again, the cooling fan is surging, even after replacing the water pump and thermostat. No codes, no other issues. Any ideas?
Sounds like your new water pump could be bad. Just because the part is new, doesn't always mean it is a good part!

Or maybe the shop didn't bleed the cooling system properly. Can you read codes on your own? I would do that first. Often times the DME will throw a water pump code before the pump fails totally.

You could also bleed the cooling system by putting the key into the slot, hit the start button but don't start the car, just get the dash lights to come on. Then put your foot and HOLD it down on the gas pedal(without the engine running) to put the cooling system into the bleed down mode. This will run the water pump in cycles. Put the heat level on HIGH. This will bleed the cooling system after ten minutes.

Check your coolant expansion tank(only with a COLD engine) to also make sure you have enough coolant. Often times after a cooling system repair, the system will "burb" itself and be low.




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      05-11-2018, 05:24 PM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Sounds like your new water pump could be bad. Just because the part is new, doesn't always mean it is a good part!

Or maybe the shop didn't bleed the cooling system properly. Can you read codes on your own? I would do that first. Often times the DME will throw a water pump code before the pump fails totally.

You could also bleed the cooling system by putting the key into the slot, hit the start button but don't start the car, just get the dash lights to come on. Then put your foot and HOLD it down on the gas pedal(without the engine running) to put the cooling system into the bleed down mode. This will run the water pump in cycles. Put the heat level on HIGH. This will bleed the cooling system after ten minutes.

Check your coolant expansion tank(only with a COLD engine) to also make sure you have enough coolant. Often times after a cooling system repair, the system will "burb" itself and be low.




Dackel
Thanks Dack, just dropped it off at the shop. Itís under warranty so if itís bad theyíll replace it. Hopefully thatís it....
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      05-13-2018, 05:16 PM   #510
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Water pump replaced and no issues now. Put me down for 2 failed water pumps back to back!
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      07-06-2018, 03:54 PM   #511
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2012 E88 msport with dct. just had mine replaced in May with 47,000 miles on it.
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      07-12-2018, 10:33 AM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by five_timer View Post
Just hit 86K miles (2011), did a preventative water pump & thermostat replacement. My CPO warranty just expired, so any failure would now be on me. My nephew is a mechanic, he did it for $550 P+L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomoPirate View Post
He literally doesn't charge you for the labor.

The parts alone are $450+ and it's a 3 hours+ job for most mechanic.
Sorry for the late response, I just happened to notice this reply.

He told me $450 for the part, and $100 for his labor. But he was doing additional work that was part of the overall labor job. And I think he gets a kickback or volume discount on the part.
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      07-25-2018, 01:44 PM   #513
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2011 E88 DCT 37k miles. Had pump, t'stat, U-hose and coolant replaced yesterday. $1125 at my local indy vs $1550 from dealer.

My oil temp was down from 250 to a little over 200 on my 16 mile drive to work from the shop. It sort of shows how the old pump doesn't appear to have been circulating very well and leaving the heat to be absorbed into the oil.
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      07-25-2018, 02:21 PM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenspeed View Post
2011 E88 DCT 37k miles. Had pump, t'stat, U-hose and coolant replaced yesterday. $1125 at my local indy vs $1550 from dealer.

My oil temp was down from 250 to a little over 200 on my 16 mile drive to work from the shop. It sort of shows how the old pump doesn't appear to have been circulating very well and leaving the heat to be absorbed into the oil.
245 for oil temp is typical for highway use on my 2011 e88 MT, straight from the factory (Ive owned mine since new). Id have a hard time believing that thereís a substantial enough increase in flow, given constant surface area on the radiator, to move heat to affect a 50F difference.

Has the part changed substantially in design or electric requirement?

Curious why you swapped these parts so early. Since I have more or less the same car Itís of interest to me... preventive maintenance or pending issue?
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      07-25-2018, 03:09 PM   #515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenspeed View Post
2011 E88 DCT 37k miles. Had pump, t'stat, U-hose and coolant replaced yesterday. $1125 at my local indy vs $1550 from dealer.

My oil temp was down from 250 to a little over 200 on my 16 mile drive to work from the shop. It sort of shows how the old pump doesn't appear to have been circulating very well and leaving the heat to be absorbed into the oil.
245 for oil temp is typical for highway use on my 2011 e88 MT, straight from the factory (Ive owned mine since new). Id have a hard time believing that there's a substantial enough increase in flow, given constant surface area on the radiator, to move heat to affect a 50F difference.

Has the part changed substantially in design or electric requirement?

Curious why you swapped these parts so early. Since I have more or less the same car It's of interest to me... preventive maintenance or pending issue?
Mine is always just below 250 when warmed up. Also owned since new.
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      07-25-2018, 05:56 PM   #516
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Second pump failure, this time cracked plastic housing. First one electrical failure. They lasted 50,000km each.
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      07-26-2018, 03:40 PM   #517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
245 for oil temp is typical for highway use on my 2011 e88 MT, straight from the factory (Ive owned mine since new). Id have a hard time believing that thereís a substantial enough increase in flow, given constant surface area on the radiator, to move heat to affect a 50F difference.

Has the part changed substantially in design or electric requirement?

Curious why you swapped these parts so early. Since I have more or less the same car Itís of interest to me... preventive maintenance or pending issue?
My temp has always run around 250 too on a longer drive. I didn't realize how much slower the climb was with good water flow until I changed the components and made the same drive to work for a couple of days. It was hitting 250 on the six mile drive before, now it just gets to 200-210.

I replaced the pump, thermostat and hose because I had the yellow temp light flash on momentarily on 2 out of 3 drives and didn't want to get caught in a bad place.

This car not a DD and only comes out when the top can go down.
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      07-27-2018, 07:02 AM   #518
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The water pump failure is more a function of mileage and not the MY of the vehicle. If that information had been collected, a probability distribution could have been constructed giving a good idea when to anticipate the failure.
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      07-27-2018, 01:00 PM   #519
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2011 135i n55. Water pump died at 55k!
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      08-13-2018, 08:33 AM   #520
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I have a 2008 135i (N54) with about 70K on it. I've definitely had the thermostat replaced. I have no dealer invoices showing a water-pump replacement, but the pump looks substantially younger than the surrounding hardware which makes me wonder about its age relative to everything else.
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      08-13-2018, 08:56 AM   #521
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I was thinking about pushing the limits with my water pump to see how many miles I can go before it fails. I chickened out. Had it replaced just before 75k miles. Here's the interesting thing. Haven't even had it the car back more than a day. The brand new in the box OE water pump failed. So back went the car to the dealer to have a new water pump put in to replace the new water pump. Makes me wonder if I would have better reliability if I had kept the original water pump from the manufacturing line in the engine.
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      08-13-2018, 09:28 PM   #522
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I was thinking about pushing the limits with my water pump to see how many miles I can go before it fails. I chickened out. Had it replaced just before 75k miles. Here's the interesting thing. Haven't even had it the car back more than a day. The brand new in the box OE water pump failed. So back went the car to the dealer to have a new water pump put in to replace the new water pump. Makes me wonder if I would have better reliability if I had kept the original water pump from the manufacturing line in the engine.
Damn, ain't that a bitch? Makes a person a believer in Murphy's law; "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong." lol

Sorry to hear, but at least you'll get it replaced under warranty. Shouldn't happen, though. Like you got nothing better to do with your time.
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      08-13-2018, 09:43 PM   #523
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Still no 128i water pump failures.
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      08-13-2018, 09:57 PM   #524
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2012 N55, According to the previous owner original water pump failed at around 40k, I'm currently on the 2nd pump at 56k
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      08-13-2018, 10:44 PM   #525
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Originally Posted by Esteban View Post
Damn, ain't that a bitch? Makes a person a believer in Murphy's law; "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong." lol

Sorry to hear, but at least you'll get it replaced under warranty. Shouldn't happen, though. Like you got nothing better to do with your time.
It's all been taken care of already. I just got around to posting about it now. Had to deal with this ordeal about a month ago. So technically, I am probably the lowest number of miles to have a failed water pump. About 30 miles on a new pump and not even a day before failure.
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      08-31-2018, 10:19 PM   #526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mleskovar View Post
Still no 128i water pump failures.
Iím sure I posted it someplace else but the WP on my 128i failed at 44,000 miles.
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      09-22-2018, 01:17 PM   #527
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My pump didn't fail, but replaced it along with a failing thermostat, 2010 128i 93k miles. Interesting, I strongly suspect the thermostat failure was due to water exposure from a hole in the under tray
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      10-13-2018, 05:26 AM   #528
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2007 130i, N52.
Water pump & thermostat replaced at approx 155,000 miles - precautionary measure only, originals were still functioning correctly.

2011 1M Coupe, N54.
31,000 miles, original water pump and thermostat still functioning correctly.
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