Thoughts on Toyo R88R tires

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by Phloozy

Awesome, I'm the opposite situation. Never been up north but I'm definitely planning on making it there soon.

You should head up at least once. Palmer and Club Motorsports are great tracks that are definitely under appreciated.

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by spidertri

M arms add a little camber but they reduce wheel to fender clearance to do it.

Do you have 7" long swift springs on the Ohlins? Without wheel spacers I had 3mm of clearance from the tire sidewall to the lower spring perch, that's with a 245 RE71R with section width of 9.8". The 245 RT660 has a 10" section width which makes it about 2.5mm wider on each side than the clearance I posted in my Ohlins install thread. It'll definitely be a tight fit and you may need to play with wheel spacers to get it working nicely. Rolling the front fenders is incredibly easy too, if you end up needing fender clearance.

I do have the Swift springs just not sure of their length. Sounds good, thanks for the tips, I’m hoping for the best. My car is still a street car after all so it can’t be crazy looking. Since I run F30 calipers, I had to acquire some OEM Style 44s and mount my old winter tires on it just to be able to pass inspection since the car has very worn tires on it with the TA16s. Down the rabbit hole I go…

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by tsk94

I just installed front M arms and Koni's. I'm also using Dinan fixed camber plates.

What I did was slot my strut tower holes. This is something I've done on my race cars previously and have done on my E92 M3 as well. With the Dinan plates, M arms and my extended strut tower slots I'm able to get just over -3* on each side. May not be for everyone, but it works! If you take your time it can turn out great and look like it came like that from the factory.

You mean you had to grind the tower slots off a bit? I’ve seen this done on a car over the weekend when I was asking around so that might be an option, too. I’m just trying to keep the costs fairly low at this point mid season, but that’s proving to be very difficult.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

You mean you had to grind the tower slots off a bit? I’ve seen this done on a car over the weekend when I was asking around so that might be an option, too. I’m just trying to keep the costs fairly low at this point mid season, but that’s proving to be very difficult.

I used a circle file to elongate the strut tower holes (inwards, to get more camber), then a dremel with a round sanding disk to clean up the edges. Then painted to ensure it can't rust.

Same boat. Trying to keep costs down and instead of buying a camber plate to get more camber I did this.

I can get a picture if you'd like.

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by tsk94

I used a circle file to elongate the strut tower holes (inwards, to get more camber), then a dremel with a round sanding disk to clean up the edges. Then painted to ensure it can't rust.

Same boat. Trying to keep costs down and instead of buying a camber plate to get more camber I did this.

I can get a picture if you'd like.

Yeah a pic would help but I think this was what I saw this past weekend on a Z4M. I don’t know why camber plates are wicked expensive tbh but it is what it is.

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by Phloozy

Oh man yeah I would check… I'm pretty sure the falkens run wide. Next event is aug 20 at njmp I'm pretty sure

Very wide. Not as wide as the A052, but wider than the RE71R.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

Yeah a pic would help but I think this was what I saw this past weekend on a Z4M. I don’t know why camber plates are wicked expensive tbh but it is what it is.

Here you go. It's a bit hard to tell on a black car as it blends in with the camber plate, but I think you get the idea. Compared to stock they are much longer so you get some added adjustability.