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      03-21-2020, 01:34 PM   #13949
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2013 128i  [9.58]
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Any link you can share mate? They look like they’re polished metal, or are they not? For the price I’m assuming they aren’t.
Select "Silver". It's an aluminum disc (bonded) to the plastic cap. Nothing fancy, but do the job.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-69mm-6...72.m2749.l2649
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      03-21-2020, 05:01 PM   #13950
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Working from home till next month, seems like a great time to put the 1er down for some much needed front end maintenance!

Today I've replaced the tie rods, including fresh boots, and am /finally/ getting around to installing my 1m front control arms. My right side (passenger side here in the US) tie rod was seized, and I wasn't going to do the control arms until that was corrected. Good to go now!

In the past I've always had issues separating ball joints from the knuckle, but these, all six of them, came apart very gracefully! They popped just while removing the nut! Always had to use a pickle fork or other destructive means in the past... Alas, it wasn't to be that easy- Every one of the six fought to get past the last few threads when removing the nut. You know, the threads that have been exposed to the elements for the last hundred thousand miles & eleven/twelve years...

Even using an impact gun I was running the nut up & down, then chasing the threads with a file, then hitting it with the impact again... lots of pb blaster and hours of soak time didn't matter.

So, at this point I've got both tie rods complete and control arms on the drivers side done. Tomorrow I'll finish the passenger side control arms, the headlight adjuster, then put the suspension under load and finish torque the control arms. I'll finish by setting the toe back to where it was before- negative 1/16th. That should hold me till a real alignment...
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Last edited by 1and1; 03-21-2020 at 08:44 PM..
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      03-21-2020, 05:41 PM   #13951
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^

You're going to like the M arms.
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      03-21-2020, 05:46 PM   #13952
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Spent half a day replacing my valve cover and OFHG. Both leaking badly.








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      03-21-2020, 08:49 PM   #13953
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You're going to like the M arms.
Is a nice combo with the Dinan camber plates for sure!
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      03-21-2020, 08:59 PM   #13954
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'09 135i  [10.00]
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Spent half a day replacing my valve cover and OFHG. Both leaking badly.

((Snip a bunch of great pics))
Some steady on working there to do both VC and OFHG in a half day! My back hurts just thinking about either, much less both at once!
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      03-21-2020, 09:09 PM   #13955
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Swapped in an M3 brake master cylinder I found for $60. Was a complete pain in the ass, but it did bolt right up, and now it's all bled and ready to drive. Took almost 3 liters of brake fluid to bleed with INPA (did that because I wanted to be sure all air was out of the valve bodies).

Hoping this will shorten my brake pedal and make heel-toeing easier while threshold braking. 26mm vs 23mm bore/piston for front brakes and same 22mm bore for rear brakes.

One weird thing, though, the brake lights won't turn off unless I pull the pedal up with my hand. The pedal doesn't move when I do so, so I'm at a loss...thoughts?
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      03-21-2020, 11:49 PM   #13956
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Chris, check and see if you can move the brake switch on the peddle. Odds are the M3 one has a shorter piston to accommodate the lower peddle height.
I have seen some on Fords that have an adjustable plunger. Not sure if ours are or not.

Just a quick look, the switch is the same for all, E chassis cars. And the switch looks adjustable. Pop it out and see what you can find.
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      03-22-2020, 10:37 AM   #13957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
Chris, check and see if you can move the brake switch on the peddle. Odds are the M3 one has a shorter piston to accommodate the lower peddle height.
I have seen some on Fords that have an adjustable plunger. Not sure if ours are or not.

Just a quick look, the switch is the same for all, E chassis cars. And the switch looks adjustable. Pop it out and see what you can find.
I figured it out! I just bumped the switch out of place when I loosened the booster from behind the pedals. A firm push and it was fixed.

And oh my goodness, the brakes feel perfect. Nice and taut, it's going to be perfect on the track, I think.
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      03-22-2020, 01:20 PM   #13958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I figured it out! I just bumped the switch out of place when I loosened the booster from behind the pedals. A firm push and it was fixed.

And oh my goodness, the brakes feel perfect. Nice and taut, it's going to be perfect on the track, I think.
E9X M3 MC chris_flies ?

You’re always the trailblazer brother, keep it up! If this works out for you, all of us with the F30 calipers might or will follow suit!

As an aside, this long and ongoing journey of all of us dealing w the virus has gotten me going car crazy and having a serious case of Porsche car envy. Seriously been thinking of jumping ship as this has always been the end goal- to get into a 987.2S or 987R.

A lot of events I signed up for this year have been OR are in the verge of being cancelled.

Looking at it though, this is a petty, first-world problem, thinking of cars at this time. Apologies if it’s sounding tone-deaf. I’m thankful I have my job, but being in the frontlines now is a case of “damned if I do, damned if I don’t.” Everyday I’m out, I’m risking myself and my family, as well as patients. We are expected to do it, though.

Stay safe out there!

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      03-22-2020, 03:32 PM   #13959
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About all the rest of us can say is: Thanks! We appreciate the efforts & be safe.
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      03-23-2020, 01:30 AM   #13960
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Changed my wheel studs up and different spacers. Had 5mm all around but removed them all and put 12.5mm in the rear. Now I need stiffer suspension to keep from rubbing on big bumps. And finally took it out and snapped some shots. Much happier with this wheel stud setup. I didn't like the mishimoto aluminum lug nuts and I didn't like how the stud was so far in from the end of the nut. I prefer this look much better. So to run the spacers in the rear I swapped the studs that came with the Mishimoto kit for longer ones and it take out almost perfect between front and rear stud protrusion.
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      03-23-2020, 10:12 AM   #13961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
E9X M3 MC chris_flies ?

You’re always the trailblazer brother, keep it up! If this works out for you, all of us with the F30 calipers might or will follow suit!

As an aside, this long and ongoing journey of all of us dealing w the virus has gotten me going car crazy and having a serious case of Porsche car envy. Seriously been thinking of jumping ship as this has always been the end goal- to get into a 987.2S or 987R.

A lot of events I signed up for this year have been OR are in the verge of being cancelled.

Looking at it though, this is a petty, first-world problem, thinking of cars at this time. Apologies if it’s sounding tone-deaf. I’m thankful I have my job, but being in the frontlines now is a case of “damned if I do, damned if I don’t.” Everyday I’m out, I’m risking myself and my family, as well as patients. We are expected to do it, though.

Stay safe out there!
Yup, E9x. F8x wouldn't work because of how their braking system works.

I think this is all I've trailblazed so far, but thanks!
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      03-23-2020, 10:22 AM   #13962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Some steady on working there to do both VC and OFHG in a half day! My back hurts just thinking about either, much less both at once!
Thanks. It took about 5 total hours. 1.5 just to remove and install the valve cover once all the bolts were loose. Getting it out was a PITA, getting it back in took 15 minutes. The rest was just remove and install the various pieces. The OFHG bolt under the intake was also a PITA. Otherwise, not too bad. Next will be the water pump.
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      03-23-2020, 02:20 PM   #13963
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Quote:
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Next will be the water pump.
That’s been tugging at the back of my mind lately also...
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      03-23-2020, 04:28 PM   #13964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1aze View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Next will be the water pump.
That’s been tugging at the back of my mind lately also...
Do it...
My water pump went out a couple of days ago...
Only warning i got was loss of power!
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      03-23-2020, 04:57 PM   #13965
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Paid to have suspension and rear subframe bushings replaced.

The car feels FANTASTIC going thru curves and corners! The faster the more apparent

My 135i is a great daily
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      03-23-2020, 06:38 PM   #13966
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Washed it and changed the differential oil (2,500 mile change). I forgot how much worse it smells in a closed garage than in a school parking lot My new wheels come in tomorrow, which I'm very excited about.

Installed some Whiteline front control arms in my father's GTI as well. Such a nice, simple car to work on. Also helps to have 1/5th the mileage...
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      03-23-2020, 08:30 PM   #13967
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Quote:
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Washed it and changed the differential oil (2,500 mile change). I forgot how much worse it smells in a closed garage than in a school parking lot
I got a small spot of diff oil in my trunk getting it home from the junk yard and it STILL stinks in my car when I first open the door. It’s absolutely repulsive.
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      03-24-2020, 08:24 AM   #13968
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'09 135i  [10.00]
So, the new front end feels glorious, in the classic "don't realize how worn out it is, until it isn't anymore..." kind of way. The old ball joints were in surprisingly good shape still, but the bushing ends were cotton candy soft. Having the new solid bushing 1m arms along with new tie rods has made the steering soooo much more consistent and precise.

As is ever the way tho, now all the soft in the rear is even more noticeable.
and annoying.....

parts shopping again...
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      03-24-2020, 08:57 AM   #13969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
So, the new front end feels glorious, in the classic "don't realize how worn out it is, until it isn't anymore..." kind of way. The old ball joints were in surprisingly good shape still, but the bushing ends were cotton candy soft. Having the new solid bushing 1m arms along with new tie rods has made the steering soooo much more consistent and precise.

As is ever the way tho, now all the soft in the rear is even more noticeable.
and annoying.....

parts shopping again...
Yep. Gonna continue until you replace everything, end up with a solid rear end, and swap to the whole M3 assembly including dampers and all LOL.

Ask me how I know.
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      03-24-2020, 03:52 PM   #13970
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Quote:
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Yep. Gonna continue until you replace everything, end up with a solid rear end, and swap to the whole M3 assembly including dampers and all LOL.

Ask me how I know.
I always love perusing your build page. Quick question, when/where did you get the Fe1rx ///M Rear Toe Arms? I didn't realize they actually ever became available. I have another 3rd party brand of toe arm, but those look sweet!
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